ASTM D4850-23
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical terms used in the industry related to textile fabrics. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included. Other terminology standards that have terms related to textile fabrics are shown in 2.1
1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
General Information
- Status
- Published
- Publication Date
- 31-May-2023
- Technical Committee
- D13 - Textiles
- Drafting Committee
- D13.59 - Fabric Physical Test Methods A
Relations
- Effective Date
- 01-Jan-2024
- Refers
ASTM D5587-15(2024) - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Trapezoid Procedure - Effective Date
- 01-Jan-2024
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Refers
ASTM D4158-08(2020) - Standard Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion) - Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Feb-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Nov-2019
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2019
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2019
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2019
Overview
ASTM D4850-23: Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods provides essential definitions of technical terms used throughout the textile and fabric industry. Developed by ASTM International, this standard ensures consistency in communication and reporting for professionals working with textile fabrics and their testing. By establishing a shared vocabulary, ASTM D4850-23 supports accurate interpretation of test results, product specifications, and quality assessments across the global textile supply chain.
This terminology standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles of standardization, as outlined by the World Trade Organization (WTO) Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Key Topics
ASTM D4850-23 covers a comprehensive range of terminology relevant to fabrics and their test methods, including:
- Fabric Types and Structures: Definitions for woven, knitted, braided, laminated, coated, nonwoven, and pile fabrics.
- Testing Terms: Terms related to textile testing such as air permeability, abrasion resistance, breaking strength, elongation, stiffness, thickness, and dimensional stability.
- Defects and Quality: Clarification of defects including bow, skew, pilling, snagging, and visual gradings such as minor, major, and critical defects.
- Measurement Units and Methods: Standardized descriptions of how properties such as count, weight, tear strength, and permeability are measured or calculated.
- Process Terms: Concepts like bond strength, seam slippage, conditioning, calibration, and proficiency testing.
By providing clear and authoritative definitions, ASTM D4850-23 enables consistency across technical documentation, test reports, and product labeling.
Applications
The terminology defined in ASTM D4850-23 is widely applicable across various activities in the textile and apparel industry, including:
- Textile Testing Laboratories: Ensuring that test methods for properties like air permeability, flammability, thickness, strength, and pilling resistance are conducted and reported using a common language.
- Quality Assurance: Standardizing defect assessment, grading, and inspection processes in manufacturing facilities and for quality audits.
- Product Development and Design: Facilitating clear communication between engineers, designers, and suppliers about fabric characteristics and performance expectations.
- Procurement and Sourcing: Supporting clear contracts and specifications between buyers and suppliers, reducing misinterpretations.
- Compliance and Product Labeling: Assisting in meeting regulatory requirements and international trade standards by using consistent terminology.
Manufacturers, testing organizations, and regulatory bodies rely on ASTM D4850-23 to minimize misunderstandings, improve efficiency, and ensure products meet specified requirements.
Related Standards
ASTM D4850-23 references and complements numerous other fabric and textile test method standards, including:
- ASTM D737: Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics
- ASTM D1230: Flammability of Apparel Textiles
- ASTM D1388: Stiffness of Fabrics
- ASTM D1424: Tearing Strength by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type)
- ASTM D5034 & D5035: Breaking Strength by Grab and Strip Methods
- ASTM D3774, D3775, D3776: Methods for Measuring Width, End/Pick Count, and Mass Per Unit Area
- ASTM D4970, D3511, D3512: Pilling Resistance Test Methods
- ASTM D3990, D4848, D5684: Related terminology standards for fabric defects and textile properties
Using ASTM D4850-23 in conjunction with these test methods ensures uniformity throughout the entire fabric testing and evaluation process.
Keywords: ASTM D4850-23, fabric terminology, textile standards, fabric test methods, textile testing, quality assurance, fabric defects, textile industry standards, international standard, ASTM fabric standards.
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Frequently Asked Questions
ASTM D4850-23 is a standard published by ASTM International. Its full title is "Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods". This standard covers: SCOPE 1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical terms used in the industry related to textile fabrics. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included. Other terminology standards that have terms related to textile fabrics are shown in 2.1 1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
SCOPE 1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical terms used in the industry related to textile fabrics. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included. Other terminology standards that have terms related to textile fabrics are shown in 2.1 1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
ASTM D4850-23 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 01.040.59 - Textile and leather technology (Vocabularies); 59.080.30 - Textile fabrics. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
ASTM D4850-23 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to ASTM D2261-13(2024), ASTM D5587-15(2024), ASTM D4685/D4685M-15(2020), ASTM D3787-16(2020), ASTM D6614/D6614M-20, ASTM D3883-04(2020), ASTM D3882-08(2020), ASTM D4158-08(2020), ASTM D4964-96(2020), ASTM D3514/D3514M-16(2020), ASTM D1776/D1776M-20, ASTM D4034/D4034M-19, ASTM D3107-07(2019), ASTM D1336-07(2019), ASTM D5035-11(2019). Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
ASTM D4850-23 is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D4850 − 23
Standard Terminology Relating to
Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4850; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D2906 Practice for Statements on Precision and Bias for
1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical terms
Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
used in the industry related to textile fabrics. Terms that are
D3107 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Wo-
generally understood or adequately defined in other readily
ven from Stretch Yarns
available sources are not included. Other terminology stan-
D3511/D3511M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and
dards that have terms related to textile fabrics are shown in 2.1
Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush
1.2 This international standard was developed in accor-
Pilling Tester
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
D3512/D3512M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Ran-
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
dom Tumble Pilling Tester
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
D3514/D3514M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elas-
tomeric Pad
2. Referenced Documents
2 D3773/D3773M Test Methods for Length of Woven Fabric
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D3774 Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric
D737 Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics
D3775 Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count
D1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
of Woven Fabrics
D1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics
D3776/D3776M Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area
D1388 Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics
(Weight) of Fabric
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
D3786/D3786M Test Method for Bursting Strength of Tex-
Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
tile Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D1775 Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Wide
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
Elastic Fabrics (Withdrawn 2000)
D1776/D1776M Practice for Conditioning and Testing Tex- Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
tiles D3789 Practice for Labeling Cans of Consumer Spray Paint
D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
(Withdrawn 1997)
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the
D3882 Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven and
Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-
Knitted Fabrics
Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
D3883 Test Method for Yarn Crimp and Yarn Take-up in
D2594/D2594M Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knit-
Woven Fabrics
ted Fabrics Having Low Power
D3884 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused,
(Rotary Platform Abrader Method)
D3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
Fabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
D3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Physical Test
Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)
Methods A.
Current edition approved June 1, 2023. Published September 2023. Originally
D3887 Specification for Tolerance for Knitted Fabrics
ɛ1
approved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 2017 as D4850 – 13(2017) . 3
(Withdrawn 2017)
DOI: 10.1520/D4850-23.
2 D3939/D3939M Test Method for Snagging Resistance of
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Fabrics (Mace)
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
the ASTM website.
3 D4032 Test Method for Stiffness of Fabric by the Circular
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
www.astm.org. Bend Procedure
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4850 − 23
D4033 Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at the D6614/D6614M Test Method for Stretch Properties of Tex-
Sewn Seam in Upholstery Fabrics (Dynamic Fatigue tile Fabrics – CRE Method
D6674 Guide for Proficiency Test Program for Fabrics
Method) (Withdrawn 2001)
D6770 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
D4034/D4034M Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slip-
Webbing (Hex Bar Method)
page at the Sewn Seam in Woven Upholstery Fabrics
D6797 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics
D4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test
Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
D4158 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics
3. Terminology
(Uniform Abrasion)
D4390 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Terry
3.1 Definitions:
Bathroom Products for Household Use (Withdrawn
abrasion, n—the wearing away of any part of a material by
1994)
rubbing against another surface. D3884, D3885, D3886,
D4772 Test Method for Surface Water Absorption of Terry D4157, D4158, D4685/D4685M, D4966
Fabrics (Water Flow)
abrasion cycle, n—one complete movement across the surface
D4350 Test Method for Corrosivity Index of Plastics and
of a material.
Fillers
DISCUSSION—The complete movement for an abrasion cycle is
D4685/D4685M Test Method for Pile Fabric Abrasion
dependent on the action of the abrasion machine and the test method
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
used. It may consist of one back-and-forth unidirectional movement or
Related Properties of Textiles
one circular movement, or a combination of both. D3885
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test
abrasion cycle, n—for the Martindale Abrasion Tester, 16 rubs
Methods
required to complete a geometric shape, known as a
D4851 Test Methods for Coated and Laminated Fabrics for
Lissajous. D4966
Architectural Use
D4964 Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Elastic
abrasion cycle, n—in abrasion testing, one or more move-
Fabrics (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Type Tensile Testing
ments of the abradant across a material surface, or the
Machine)
material surface across the abradant, that permits a return to
D4966 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile its starting position.
DISCUSSION—The abrasion cycle is dependent on the programmed
Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)
motions of the abrasion machine and the test standard used. It may
D4970/D4970M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and
consist of one back-and-forth unidirectional movement such as for the
Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Mar-
flexing and abrasion test method; a circular movement such as for the
tindale Tester
rotary platform test method, or a combination of both such as for the
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of
inflated diaphragm test method. For the oscillatory cylinder abrasion
Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
method, an abrasion cycle consists of one double-rub. See double-rub.
D5035 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of
[D13.60] D4157, D6770
Textile Fabrics (Strip Method)
absorption, n—a process in which one material (the absorbent)
D5103 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of
takes in or absorbs another (the absorbate); as the absorption
Manufactured Staple Fibers (Single-Fiber Test)
of moisture by fibers. [D13.59] D4772
D5278/D5278M Test Method for Elongation of Narrow
Elastic Fabrics (Static-Load Testing)
accuracy, n—of a test method, the degree of agreement
D5362 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics
between the true value of the property being tested (or
(Bean Bag) accepted standard value) and the average of many observa-
D5378 Performance Specification for Woven and Knitted tions made according to the test method, preferably by many
observers. [D13.60] D2906, D6674
Shower Curtains for Institutional and Household Use
D5426 Practices for Visual Inspection and Grading of Fab-
air permeability, n—the rate of air flow passing perpendicular
rics Used for Inflatable Restraints
through a known area under a prescribed air pressure
D5430 Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading
differential between the two surfaces of a material.
Fabrics
DISCUSSION—Air permeability of fabric at a stated pressure differen-
D5446 Practice for Determining Physical Properties of
tial between two surfaces of the fabric is generally expressed in SI units
3 2 3 2
Fabrics, Yarns, and Sewing Thread Used in Inflatable
as cm /s/cm and in inch-pound units as ft /min/ft calculated in
operating conditions. (See permeability, porosity.) D737
Restraints
D5587 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
air-supported roof, n—a fabric roof-system that is properly
Trapezoid Procedure
secured and primarily supported and held in place by air
D5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings
pressure. D4851
D5793 Test Method for Binding Sites per Unit Length or
Width of Pile Yarn Floor Coverings architectural-use, n—in the building trade, a descriptive term
D6207 Test Method for Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to
for fabrics used in fabric roof-systems or similar industrial
Changes in Humidity and Temperature applications. (See also fabric roof-system.) D4851
D4850 − 23
bagging, n—any material, such as fabric or other suitable broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
material used to protect commodities during shipment and/or due to yarn breakage. D3990
storage.
bubble—See preferred term blister. [D13.59] D2724
DISCUSSION—Fabrics may be of the woven, knitted, or non-woven
type, and are typically produced with cotton, jute, polyethylene, or
burlap, n—a coarse, heavy, plain weave fabric of yarns, such
polypropylene fibers. D4850
as bast or cotton fiber yarn. D4850
batch sample, n—the material(s) used for the proficiency test
bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture
study taken from a common roll or garment lot and distrib-
a textile by distending it with a force, applied at right angles
uted to the participants. [D13.60] D6674
to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
DISCUSSION—The angle of application of force, and the area of the
bending length, n—(1) general—a measure of the interaction
fabric upon which the force is applied varies continuously as the fabric
between fabric weight and fabric stiffness as shown by the
stretches when it is tested as directed in this method. D6797
way in which a fabric bends under its own weight. It reflects
the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under the
bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture
force of gravity, and is one component of drape; (2)
a fabric by distending it with a force, applied at right angles
specific—the cube root of the ratio of the flexural rigidity to
to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
the weight per unit area. D1388
D3786/D3786M, D3787, D3887
bias, n—in statistics, a constant or systematic error in test
calibrate, v—to determine and record the relationship between
results. [D13.60] D6674
a set of standard units of measure and the output of an
instrument or test procedure. [D13.60] D6674
blister, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a bulge,
swelling, or similar surface condition on either the face
circular bend, n—simultaneous, multidirectional deformation
fabric or the backing fabric characterized by the fabric being
of a fabric in which one face of a flat specimen becomes
raised from the plane of the underlying component over a
concave and the other becomes convex. D4032
limited area to give a puffy appearance. D2724
coated fabric, n—a flexible material composed of a fabric and
bond strength, n—of bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, the
any adherent polymeric material applied to one or both
tensile force expressed in ounces per 25 mm (1 in.) of width,
surfaces. (See also laminated fabric.) D4850, D4851,
required to separate the component layers under specified
D5446
conditions. D2724
color contrast, n—in textiles, a general term for a visible color
bonded fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a face or
difference between two adjacent areas.
shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot, with
DISCUSSION—For the purpose of Test Methods D3939/D3939M and
an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of
D5362, a color contrast is a visible color difference between a snag and
the combined fabrics. (See also laminated fabric, coated
the immediate surrounding area of the fabric that has no defects. Color
fabric.) D2724
contrasts often occur when printed fabrics are snagged. D3939/
D3939M, D5362
book fold, n—a fabric doubled selvage to selvage, then folded
back and forth upon itself in predetermined lengths. (See
constant-rate-of-extension tensile testing machine (CRE),
also shoe fold.)
n—a testing machine in which the rate of increase of the
DISCUSSION—When the piece is completed, the fold-edges on each
specimen length is uniform with time. D6797
side are folded once more upon themselves so that the fold-edges are
inside, forming a compact package as long as one half the width of the
constant-rate-of-extension type tensile testing machine
fabric. D4850
(CRE), n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with
knitted courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to the
increasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.). D3787
selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of the
fabric. (See also double bow.) D3882, D3990
constant-rate-of-load (CRL) tensile testing machine—a test-
ing machine in which the rate of increase of the load being
braided fabric, n—a structure produced by interlacing three or
applied to the specimen is uniform with time after the first 3
more ends of yarns in a manner such that the paths of the
s. [D13.60] D4964, D5035, D5034
yarns are diagonal to the vertical axis of the fabric. D4850
constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine—a
breaking force, n—the maximum force applied to a material
testing machine in which the pulling clamp moves at a
carried to rupture (compare breaking point, breaking
uniform rate and the load is applied through the other clamp
strength). [D13.60] D3884, D3885, D4157, D4848, D5034,
which moves appreciably to actuate a weighing mechanism,
D5035, D6770
so that the rate of increase of load or elongation is dependent
breaking load, n—deprecated term. Use breaking force. upon the extension characteristics of the specimen. [D13.60]
[D13.60] D4848, D5034 D3787, D5035, D5034
D4850 − 23
corduroy, n—a filling cut-pile fabric in which the cut fibers dimensional stability, n—the ability of a material to retain its
form a surface of wales (rounded cords or ribs) which length and width dimensions under specified conditions.
usually run warpwise. D4685/D4685M, D4850 DISCUSSION—The dimensions are length and width and the specified
conditions are those of cycled humidity and temperature. D6207
count, n—in woven fabric, the number of warp yarns (ends)
direction of slippage, n—at the seam, the line of movement
and filling yarns (picks) per unit distance as counted while
the fabric is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and parallel to either the filling or the warp on a woven fabric in
wrinkles. D3775 which minimum force is required to produce yarn slippage.
DISCUSSION—The fabric may be pulled in both directions in many
count, n—in knitted fabrics, the number (counted units) of
cases. D4034/D4034M
wale loops and course loops per 25 mm (1 in.). D3787
distortion, n—in fabrics, a general term for a visible defect in
course, n—in knitted fabrics, a row of successive loops in the
the texture of a fabric.
width direction of the fabric. D2594/D2594M
DISCUSSION—For the purpose of Test Methods D3939/D3939M and
D5362, snags are composed of different combinations of protrusions
crack mark, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a sharp
and distortions. A distortion is characterized by a group of fibers, yarn,
break or crease in the surface contour of either the face fabric
or a yarn segment that is displaced from its normal pattern so that there
or the backing fabric that becomes evident when the bonded,
is a visible change in the texture of the fabric; however, the displaced
fused, or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, or
group of fibers, yarn, or yarn segment does not extend above the fabric
folded. [D13.54] D2724 surface. Distortions include conditions where (1) tension on a snagged
yarn has changed the size of some loops within a knitted fabric and the
crease retention, n—that property of a fabric which enables it
result is a pucker on the surface of the fabric, and (2) tension on a
to maintain an inserted crease. D4850
snagged yarn has caused a yarn to break off within a woven fabric and
the result is a change in the texture where the yarn used to be.
critical defect, n—a serious defect that judgment and experi-
D3939/D3939M, D5362
ence indicate is likely to prevent the usability or proper
performance of a product from its intended purpose. D5430 double bow, n—two fabric bows, arcing in the same direction,
as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle.
cross-machine direction, CD, n—the direction in the plane of
(Compare double reverse bow and double bow.)
the fabric perpendicular to the direction of manufacture.
DISCUSSION—In tubular knits, there may be defferentail bowing
DISCUSSION—This term is used to refer to the direction analogous to
between the top and the bottom of the tube. D3882, D3990
coursewise or filling direction in knitted or woven fabrics, respectively.
D737, D1388, D1424, D1777, D2261
[D13.59, D13.60]
double hooked bow, n—one hooked bow at each side of the
fabric that arc in opposite directions. (See also hooked bow.)
cut, n—as applied to woven fabric, a length approximately 60
D3882, D3990
yard in the greige. D4850
double reverse bow, n—two fabric bows arcing in opposite
cut strip test, n—in fabric testing, a strip test in which the
directions. (See also bow. Compare double bow.) D3882
specimen is cut to the specified testing width. D5035
double-rub, n—in oscillatory cylinder abrasion testing, one
cycle, n—16 movements required for the completion of one
forward and one backward motion required to complete one
Lissajous figure on a Martindale tester. [D13.60] D4970/
cycle. [D13.60] D4157
D4970M
double-stroke, n—in flex and abrasion testing, an abrasion
cycle, n—in the Martindale tester, the sixteen movements
cycle that consists of one forward and one backward motion.
required to complete one Lissajous figure. [D13.60] D4966
D3885
defect, n—in inspection and grading, the departure or non-
duck, n—a compact, firm, heavy, plain-weave cotton fabric,
conformance of some characteristic from its intended level
mass per square yard 6 to 50 oz. (See also flat duck, and
or state.
DISCUSSION—In inspection and grading the characteristic is usually a plied yarn duck.) D4850
visual one. However, defects such as heat damage or poorly finished
durable-press, adj—having the ability to retain substantially
textiles grading by hand may be required. D5430
the initial shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases, and un-
denim, n—a durable woven twill fabric, usually of all cotton or
wrinkled appearance during use and after laundering or
a blend of cotton and manufactured fibers, made from a
drycleaning. (See wash and wear.)
variety of yarn numbers, and in various fabric weights,
DISCUSSION—The use of the term permanent-press, adj, as a
colors, designs, and finishes. D4850 substitute for durable-press is not recommended. D4850
dimensional change, n—a generic term for changes in length,
elastic fabric, n—a fabric made from an elastomer either alone
width, or thickness of a specimen subjected to specified
or in combination with other textiles.
conditions.
DISCUSSION—At room temperature an elastic fabric will stretch under
DISCUSSION—Dimensional change is usually expressed as a percent tension and will return quickly and forcibly to substantially its original
of the original dimension of the specimen. When a dimension increases dimensions and shape when tension is removed.
it is often referred to as growth. When a dimension decreases it is often Elastic fabrics may be manufactured by weaving, braiding, knitting,
referred to as shrinkage. D4850 or other processes. D1775, D4850, D4964
D4850 − 23
elastic tape, n—a tape containing rubber or other elastomers to filling elongation and tension, n—stretch or tension measured
permit rubber-like stretch in at least one direction. D4850 at right angles to the warp direction of the fabric. D1775
elastic webbing, n—a webbing containing rubber or other filling-faced twill, n—a weave in which filling yarns float over
warp yarns, to produce a diagonal effect in the resulting
elastomers to permit rubber-like stretch in at least one
direction. D4850 fabric. (See also twill weave and warp faced twill.) D4850
elongation, n—the ratio of the extension of a material to the filling tests, n—in fabric testing, tests in which the filling yarns
are torn. D1424
length of the material prior to stretching, expressed as a
percent. [D13.60] D4848, D4964, D5034, D5035
filling-to-filling seam, n—a sewn seam in which the yarns in
elongation, n—the ratio of the extension of a material to the the filling direction on both sides of the sewn seam are
perpendicular to the seam. D4033
length of the material prior to stretching. (Compare
extension.) [D13.59] D4848, D5278/D5278M
finished fabric weight, n—mass per unit area expressed in
grams per square metre (ounces per square yard), grams per
end, n—in woven fabric, an individual warp yarn (single or
linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or inversely as metres
ply) or cord. D3775
per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square metres per
end count, n—in woven fabric, the number of individual warp
kilogram (square yards per pound). D3887
yarns per inch of fabric regardless of whether they are
finished yield, n—in knitted fabrics, the number of finished
comprised of single or plied components D3775
square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound) of
extension, n—the change in length of a material due to
finished fabric. D3887
stretching. [D13.59, D13.60] D4848, D4964, D5034
flagging, n—in sewn seams, a mode of failure evidenced by
extension-recovery cycle, n—in tension testing, the continu-
slippage of one or more yarns entirely out of the original
ous extension of a specimen, with a momentary hold at a
seam. D4033
specified extension, followed by a controlled rate of return to
flat duck, n—duck fabric having the warp of two single yarns
zero extension. [D13.59] D4848, D4964
woven as one and either single or plied filling yarn. (See also
fabric, n—in textiles, a planar structure consisting of yarns or
duck.) D4850
fibers. D737, D1388, D1424, D3787, D4850, D5587, D6797
flexibility, n—that property of a material to endure repeated
fabric growth, n—in stretch testing, the increase in the original
flexing, bending, or bowing without rupture. D3885, D4850
dimension of a specimen after the application of a specified
flexural rigidity, n—general—resistance to bending;
force for a prescribed time and subsequent removal of the
specific—work per unit width which is required to bend a
force. (Compare fabric stretch.)
fabric to unit radius of curvature. D1388
DISCUSSION—Fabric growth is usually expressed as a percentage of
the specimen prior to application of force (see also permanent
float, n—in woven fabrics, that portion of a warp or filling yarn
deformation).
that extends unbound over two or more warp or filling yarns;
fabric roof-system, n—a system of coated fabric or laminated
in knitted fabrics, that portion of a yarn that is not knitted
fabric along with support cables, edge ropes, clamps,
into loops.
neoprene, roof drains, arch wear strips, and anchor bolts that DISCUSSION—If intentionally introduced, floats are a constructional
characteristic of knit or woven fabrics. If unintentionally present, they
constitutes the outside top covering of a building. D4851
are considered to be defects. D4850
fabric stretch, n—the increase in the dimension of a specimen
foam tear, n—a condition wherein the foam portion of a
of fabric resulting from a force applied under specified
laminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond.
conditions. (Compare elongation, extension, fabric
D2724
growth.)
DISCUSSION—The difference is usually expressed as a percentage of
force, n—a physical influence exerted by one body on another
the initial dimension of the specimen.
which produces acceleration of bodies that are free to move
fatiguing force, n—in testing sewn seams, the force that is and deformation of bodies that are not free to move.
repeatedly applied to a test specimen. D4033 [D13.59] D4848, D4964
filler, n—in testing sewn seams, nonfibrous material, such as force-recovery cycle, n—in elastic fabric testing, a continuous
insoluble clays or gypsum, together with starches, gums, and
curve or plot of force versus elongation (with movement
so forth, added to a fabric to increase its weight or to modify stopped momentarily at point of reversal) describing the
the appearance or handle of the fabric. (Syn. back-sizing.)
elongation and recovery of an elastic fabric; also known as
(Compare sizing.) D4850 the loading and unloading cycle. D1775
filling, n—in woven fabric, an individual yarn running from fused fabric, n—a type of bonded fabric made by adhering a
selvage to selvage at right angles to the warp in a woven fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use in an
fabric. D3775 interlining. D2724
D4850 − 23
fusible fabric, n—a utilitarian fabric which has a thermoplastic jacket, n—a textile, woven or felted into tubular or sleeve
adhesive applied to one side, sometimes in a pattern of dots, form, ready for covering and shrinking on a machine roll.
so that the surface can be bonded to another fabric surface by D4850
the use of heat and pressure. D2724
knitted fabric, n—a structure produced by interlooping one or
fuzz, n—tangled fiber ends that protrude from the surface of a more ends of yarn or comparable material. D3786/D3786M,
yarn or fabric. [ D13.60] D3511/D3511M, D3512/D3512M, D3787, D3789, D3882, D3887, D4850, D5378
D4970/D4970M
laid fabric, n—a fabric made without filling yarn, the parallel
gage, n—in knitted fabrics, a measure of fineness expressing warp yarns being held together by means of rubber latex or
the number of needles per unit of width (across the wales). other binding material. D4850
D4850
laminated fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a face
gage, n—in full-fashioned hosiery, a measure of fineness or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, such
as polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity of the
expressing the number of needles per 38 m (1.5 in.) on the
continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame
needle bar. D4850
method or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally, but not
gage, n—in warp knitting, for simplex, tricot, milanese, num-
always, is joined on the back with a backing fabric such as
ber of needles per English inch; for raschel, kayloom, twice
tricot. D2724
the number of needles per English inch. D4850
laminated fabric, n—in fabric roof systems, a flexible fabric
gaiting, n—in warp knitting, the setting of a guide bar one or
system composed of superimposed layers of fabric firmly
more needle spaces to the right or left in order to increase the
united by bonding or impregnating with an adherent poly-
pattern possibilities. D4850
meric material to one or more surfaces. D4851
grab test, n—in fabric testing, a tensile test in which the
length, n—of a fabric, the distance from one end of a fabric to
central part of the width of the specimen is gripped in the
the other, measured parallel to the side edge of the fabric
clamps.
while it is under zero tension and is free of folds or wrinkles.
DISCUSSION—For example, if the specimen width is 100 mm (4.0 in.)
D3773/D3773M, D3887
and the width of the jaw faces 25 mm (1.0 in.), the specimen is gripped
in the clamp with approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in.) of fabric protruding
length of tear, n—in tear testing of fabrics, the measured
from each side of the jaws. D4850, D5034
distance propagated in a specimen by a tearing force from
the initiation of the test to the termination of the test. D1424
grade, n—in warp knitting, a term used to indicate the defect
index evaluation of fabric determined by the number of
lisle, n—a plied cotton yarn, comprising highly twisted single
defects per unit, for examp
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
´1
Designation: D4850 − 13 (Reapproved 2017) D4850 − 23
Standard Terminology Relating to
Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4850; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
ε NOTE—Terms from Test Method D3774 were added editorially in August 2018.
1. Scope
1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical terms used in the industry related to textile fabrics. Terms that are generally
understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included. Other terminology standards that have terms
related to textile fabrics are shown in 2.1
1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D737 Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics
D1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
D1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics
D1388 Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
D1775 Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Wide Elastic Fabrics (Withdrawn 2000)
D1776/D1776M Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile
Testing Machine)
D2594D2594/D2594M Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D2906 Practice for Statements on Precision and Bias for Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
D3107 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns
D3511D3511/D3511M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling
Tester
D3512D3512/D3512M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random
Tumble Pilling Tester
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
GeneralPhysical Test Methods A.
Current edition approved July 15, 2017June 1, 2023. Published August 2017September 2023. Originally approved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 20132017
ɛ1
as D4850 – 13. – 13(2017) . DOI: 10.1520/D4850-13R17E01.10.1520/D4850-23.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4850 − 23
D3514D3514/D3514M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elastomeric
Pad
D3773D3773/D3773M Test Methods for Length of Woven Fabric
D3774 Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric
D3775 Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics
D3776D3776/D3776M Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of Fabric
D3786D3786/D3786M Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
D3789 Practice for Labeling Cans of Consumer Spray Paint (Withdrawn 1997)
D3882 Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
D3883 Test Method for Yarn Crimp and Yarn Take-up in Woven Fabrics
D3884 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform Abrader Method)
D3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
D3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)
D3887 Specification for Tolerance for Knitted Fabrics (Withdrawn 2017)
D3939D3939/D3939M Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics (Mace)
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
D4032 Test Method for Stiffness of Fabric by the Circular Bend Procedure
D4033 Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Upholstery Fabrics (Dynamic Fatigue Method)
(Withdrawn 2001)
D4034D4034/D4034M Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Woven Upholstery Fabrics
D4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
D4158 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion)
D4390 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Terry Bathroom Products for Household Use (Withdrawn 1994)
D4772 Test Method for Surface Water Absorption of Terry Fabrics (Water Flow)
D4350 Test Method for Corrosivity Index of Plastics and Fillers
D4685D4685/D4685M Test Method for Pile Fabric Abrasion
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Textiles
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
D4851 Test Methods for Coated and Laminated Fabrics for Architectural Use
D4964 Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Elastic Fabrics (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Type Tensile Testing Machine)
D4966 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)
D4970D4970/D4970M Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Martindale
Tester
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D5035 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Strip Method)
D5103 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of Manufactured Staple Fibers (Single-Fiber Test)
D5278D5278/D5278M Test Method for Elongation of Narrow Elastic Fabrics (Static-Load Testing)
D5362 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics (Bean Bag)
D5378 Performance Specification for Woven and Knitted Shower Curtains for Institutional and Household Use
D5426 Practices for Visual Inspection and Grading of Fabrics Used for Inflatable Restraints
D5430 Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading Fabrics
D5446 Practice for Determining Physical Properties of Fabrics, Yarns, and Sewing Thread Used in Inflatable Restraints
D5587 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Trapezoid Procedure
D5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings
D5793 Test Method for Binding Sites per Unit Length or Width of Pile Yarn Floor Coverings
D6207 Test Method for Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to Changes in Humidity and Temperature
D6614D6614/D6614M Test Method for Stretch Properties of Textile Fabrics – CRE Method
D6674 Guide for Proficiency Test Program for Fabrics
D6770 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Webbing (Hex Bar Method)
D6797 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
abrasion, n—the wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface. D3884, D3885, D3886, D4157,
D4158, D4685D4685/D4685M, D4966
D4850 − 23
abrasion cycle, n—one complete movement across the surface of a material.
DISCUSSION—
The complete movement for an abrasion cycle is dependent on the action of the abrasion machine and the test method used. It may consist of one
back-and-forth unidirectional movement or one circular movement, or a combination of both. D3885
abrasion cycle, n—for the Martindale Abrasion Tester, 16 rubs required to complete a geometric shape, known as a Lissajous.
D4966
abrasion cycle, n—in abrasion testing, one or more movements of the abradant across a material surface, or the material surface
across the abradant, that permits a return to its starting position.
DISCUSSION—
The abrasion cycle is dependent on the programmed motions of the abrasion machine and the test standard used. It may consist of one back-and-forth
unidirectional movement such as for the flexing and abrasion test method; a circular movement such as for the rotary platform test method, or a
combination of both such as for the inflated diaphragm test method. For the oscillatory cylinder abrasion method, an abrasion cycle consists of one
double-rub. See double-rub. [D13.60] D4157, D6770
absorption, n—a process in which one material (the absorbent) takes in or absorbs another (the absorbate); as the absorption
of moisture by fibers. [D13.59] D4772
accuracy, n—of a test method, the degree of agreement between the true value of the property being tested (or accepted standard
value) and the average of many observations made according to the test method, preferably by many observers. [D13.60] D2906,
D6674
air permeability, n—the rate of air flow passing perpendicular through a known area under a prescribed air pressure differential
between the two surfaces of a material.
DISCUSSION—
3 2
Air permeability of fabric at a stated pressure differential between two surfaces of the fabric is generally expressed in SI units as cm /s/cm and in
3 2
inch-pound units as ft /min/ft calculated in operating conditions. (See permeability, porosity.) D737
air-supported roof, n—a fabric roof-system that is properly secured and primarily supported and held in place by air pressure.
D4851
architectural-use, n—in the building trade, a descriptive term for fabrics used in fabric roof-systems or similar industrial
applications. (See also fabric roof-system.) D4851
bagging, n—any material, such as fabric or other suitable material used to protect commodities during shipment and/or storage.
DISCUSSION—
Fabrics may be of the woven, knitted, or non-woven type, and are typically produced with cotton, jute, polyethylene, or polypropylene fibers. D4850
batch sample, n—the material(s) used for the proficiency test study taken from a common roll or garment lot and distributed
to the participants. [D13.60] D6674
bending length, n—(1) general—a measure of the interaction between fabric weight and fabric stiffness as shown by the way
in which a fabric bends under its own weight. It reflects the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under the force of gravity,
and is one component of drape; (2) specific—the cube root of the ratio of the flexural rigidity to the weight per unit area. D1388
bias, n—in statistics, a constant or systematic error in test results. [D13.60] D6674
blister, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a bulge, swelling, or similar surface condition on either the face fabric or the
backing fabric characterized by the fabric being raised from the plane of the underlying component over a limited area to give
a puffy appearance. D2724
D4850 − 23
bond strength, n—of bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, the tensile force expressed in ounces per 25 mm (1 in.) of width,
required to separate the component layers under specified conditions. D2724
bonded fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a face or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot, with an
adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of the combined fabrics. (See also laminated fabric, coated fabric.)
D2724
book fold, n—a fabric doubled selvage to selvage, then folded back and forth upon itself in predetermined lengths. (See also
shoe fold.)
DISCUSSION—
When the piece is completed, the fold-edges on each side are folded once more upon themselves so that the fold-edges are inside, forming a compact
package as long as one half the width of the fabric. D4850
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvages
and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric. (See also double bow.) D3882, D3990
braided fabric, n—a structure produced by interlacing three or more ends of yarns in a manner such that the paths of the yarns
are diagonal to the vertical axis of the fabric. D4850
breaking force, n—the maximum force applied to a material carried to rupture (compare breaking point,breaking strength).
[D13.60] D3884, D3885, D4157, D4848, D5034, D5035, D6770
breaking load, n—deprecated term. Use breaking force. [D13.60] D4848, D5034
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction due to yarn breakage. D3990
bubble—See preferred term blister. [D13.59] D2724
burlap, n—a coarse, heavy, plain weave fabric of yarns, such as bast or cotton fiber yarn. D4850
bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture a textile by distending it with a force, applied at right angles to
the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
DISCUSSION—
The angle of application of force, and the area of the fabric upon which the force is applied varies continuously as the fabric stretches when it is tested
as directed in this method. D6797
bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture a fabric by distending it with a force, applied at right angles to
the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions. D3786D3786/D3786M, D3787, D3887
calibrate, v—to determine and record the relationship between a set of standard units of measure and the output of an instrument
or test procedure. [D13.60] D6674
circular bend, n—simultaneous, multidirectional deformation of a fabric in which one face of a flat specimen becomes concave
and the other becomes convex. D4032
coated fabric, n—a flexible material composed of a fabric and any adherent polymeric material applied to one or both surfaces.
(See also laminated fabric.) D4850, D4851, D5446
color contrast, n—in textiles, a general term for a visible color difference between two adjacent areas.
D4850 − 23
DISCUSSION—
For the purpose of Test Methods D3939D3939/D3939M and D5362, a color contrast is a visible color difference between a snag and the immediate
surrounding area of the fabric that has no defects. Color contrasts often occur when printed fabrics are snagged. D3939D3939/D3939M, D5362
constant-rate-of-extension tensile testing machine (CRE), n—a testing machine in which the rate of increase of the specimen
length is uniform with time. D6797
constant-rate-of-extension type tensile testing machine (CRE), n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the pulling clamp
moves at a uniform rate, and the force-measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with increasing force, less than 0.13
mm (0.005 in.). D3787
constant-rate-of-load (CRL) tensile testing machine—a testing machine in which the rate of increase of the load being applied
to the specimen is uniform with time after the first 3 s. [D13.60] D4964, D5035, D5034
constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine—a testing machine in which the pulling clamp moves at a uniform
rate and the load is applied through the other clamp which moves appreciably to actuate a weighing mechanism, so that the rate
of increase of load or elongation is dependent upon the extension characteristics of the specimen. [D13.60] D3787, D5035,
D5034
corduroy, n—a filling cut-pile fabric in which the cut fibers form a surface of wales (rounded cords or ribs) which usually run
warpwise. D4685D4685/D4685M, D4850
count, n—in woven fabric, the number of warp yarns (ends) and filling yarns (picks) per unit distance as counted while the fabric
is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and wrinkles. D3775
count, n—in knitted fabrics, the number (counted units) of wale loops and course loops per 25 mm (1 in.). D3787
course, n—in knitted fabrics, a row of successive loops in the width direction of the fabric. D2594D2594/D2594M
crack mark, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a sharp break or crease in the surface contour of either the face fabric
or the backing fabric that becomes evident when the bonded, fused, or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, or folded.
[D13.54] D2724
crease retention, n—that property of a fabric which enables it to maintain an inserted crease. D4850
critical defect, n—a serious defect that judgment and experience indicate is likely to prevent the usability or proper performance
of a product from its intended purpose. D5430
cross-machine direction, CD, n—the direction in the plane of the fabric perpendicular to the direction of manufacture.
DISCUSSION—
This term is used to refer to the direction analogous to coursewise or filling direction in knitted or woven fabrics, respectively. [D13.59, D13.60]
D737, D1388, D1424, D1777, D2261
cut, n—as applied to woven fabric, a length approximately 60 yard in the greige. D4850
cut strip test, n—in fabric testing, a strip test in which the specimen is cut to the specified testing width. D5035
cycle, n—16 movements required for the completion of one Lissajous figure on a Martindale tester. [D13.60] D4970D4970/
D4970M
D4850 − 23
cycle, n—in the Martindale tester, the sixteen movements required to complete one Lissajous figure. [D13.60] D4966
defect, n—in inspection and grading, the departure or non-conformance of some characteristic from its intended level or state.
DISCUSSION—
In inspection and grading the characteristic is usually a visual one. However, defects such as heat damage or poorly finished textiles grading by hand
may be required. D5430
denim, n—a durable woven twill fabric, usually of all cotton or a blend of cotton and manufactured fibers, made from a variety
of yarn numbers, and in various fabric weights, colors, designs, and finishes. D4850
dimensional change, n—a generic term for changes in length, width, or thickness of a specimen subjected to specified
conditions.
DISCUSSION—
Dimensional change is usually expressed as a percent of the original dimension of the specimen. When a dimension increases it is often referred to
as growth. When a dimension decreases it is often referred to as shrinkage. D4850
dimensional stability, n—the ability of a material to retain its length and width dimensions under specified conditions.
DISCUSSION—
The dimensions are length and width and the specified conditions are those of cycled humidity and temperature. D6207
direction of slippage, n—at the seam, the line of movement parallel to either the filling or the warp on a woven fabric in which
minimum force is required to produce yarn slippage.
DISCUSSION—
The fabric may be pulled in both directions in many cases. D4034D4034/D4034M
distortion, n—in fabrics, a general term for a visible defect in the texture of a fabric.
DISCUSSION—
For the purpose of Test Methods D3939D3939/D3939M and D5362, snags are composed of different combinations of protrusions and distortions. A
distortion is characterized by a group of fibers, yarn, or a yarn segment that is displaced from its normal pattern so that there is a visible change in
the texture of the fabric; however, the displaced group of fibers, yarn, or yarn segment does not extend above the fabric surface. Distortions include
conditions where (1) tension on a snagged yarn has changed the size of some loops within a knitted fabric and the result is a pucker on the surface
of the fabric, and (2) tension on a snagged yarn has caused a yarn to break off within a woven fabric and the result is a change in the texture where
the yarn used to be. D3939D3939/D3939M, D5362
double bow, n—two fabric bows, arcing in the same direction, as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle.
(Compare double reverse bow and double bow.)
DISCUSSION—
In tubular knits, there may be defferentail bowing between the top and the bottom of the tube. D3882, D3990
double hooked bow, n—one hooked bow at each side of the fabric that arc in opposite directions. (See also hooked bow.)
D3882, D3990
double reverse bow, n—two fabric bows arcing in opposite directions. (See also bow. Compare double bow.) D3882
double-rub, n—in oscillatory cylinder abrasion testing, one forward and one backward motion required to complete one cycle.
[D13.60] D4157
double-stroke, n—in flex and abrasion testing, an abrasion cycle that consists of one forward and one backward motion. D3885
duck, n—a compact, firm, heavy, plain-weave cotton fabric, mass per square yard 6 to 50 oz. (See also flat duck, and plied yarn
duck.) D4850
D4850 − 23
durable-press, adj—having the ability to retain substantially the initial shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases, and unwrinkled
appearance during use and after laundering or drycleaning. (See wash and wear.)
DISCUSSION—
The use of the term permanent-press,adj, as a substitute for durable-press is not recommended. D4850
elastic fabric, n—a fabric made from an elastomer either alone or in combination with other textiles.
DISCUSSION—
At room temperature an elastic fabric will stretch under tension and will return quickly and forcibly to substantially its original dimensions and shape
when tension is removed.
Elastic fabrics may be manufactured by weaving, braiding, knitting, or other processes. D1775, D4850, D4964
elastic tape, n—a tape containing rubber or other elastomers to permit rubber-like stretch in at least one direction. D4850
elastic webbing, n—a webbing containing rubber or other elastomers to permit rubber-like stretch in at least one direction.
D4850
elongation, n—the ratio of the extension of a material to the length of the material prior to stretching, expressed as a percent.
[D13.60] D4848, D4964, D5034, D5035
elongation, n—the ratio of the extension of a material to the length of the material prior to stretching. (Compare extension.)
[D13.59] D4848, D5278D5278/D5278M
end, n—in woven fabric, an individual warp yarn (single or ply) or cord. D3775
end count, n—in woven fabric, the number of individual warp yarns per inch of fabric regardless of whether they are comprised
of single or plied components D3775
extension, n—the change in length of a material due to stretching. [D13.59, D13.60] D4848, D4964, D5034
extension-recovery cycle, n—in tension testing, the continuous extension of a specimen, with a momentary hold at a specified
extension, followed by a controlled rate of return to zero extension. [D13.59] D4848, D4964
fabric, n—in textiles, a planar structure consisting of yarns or fibers. D737, D1388, D1424, D3787, D4850, D5587, D6797
fabric growth, n—in stretch testing, the increase in the original dimension of a specimen after the application of a specified force
for a prescribed time and subsequent removal of the force. (Compare fabric stretch.)
DISCUSSION—
Fabric growth is usually expressed as a percentage of the specimen prior to application of force (see also permanent deformation).
fabric roof-system, n—a system of coated fabric or laminated fabric along with support cables, edge ropes, clamps, neoprene,
roof drains, arch wear strips, and anchor bolts that constitutes the outside top covering of a building. D4851
fabric stretch, n—the increase in the dimension of a specimen of fabric resulting from a force applied under specified
conditions. (Compare elongation,extension,fabric growth.)
DISCUSSION—
The difference is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen.
fatiguing force, n—in testing sewn seams, the force that is repeatedly applied to a test specimen. D4033
filler, n—in testing sewn seams, nonfibrous material, such as insoluble clays or gypsum, together with starches, gums, and so
D4850 − 23
forth, added to a fabric to increase its weight or to modify the appearance or handle of the fabric. (Syn. back-sizing.) (Compare
sizing.) D4850
filling, n—in woven fabric, an individual yarn running from selvage to selvage at right angles to the warp in a woven fabric.
D3775
filling elongation and tension, n—stretch or tension measured at right angles to the warp direction of the fabric. D1775
filling-faced twill, n—a weave in which filling yarns float over warp yarns, to produce a diagonal effect in the resulting fabric.
(See also twill weave and warp faced twill.) D4850
filling tests, n—in fabric testing, tests in which the filling yarns are torn. D1424
filling-to-filling seam, n—a sewn seam in which the yarns in the filling direction on both sides of the sewn seam are
perpendicular to the seam. D4033
finished fabric weight, n—mass per unit area expressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square yard), grams per linear
metre (ounces per linear yard), or inversely as metres per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square metres per kilogram
(square yards per pound). D3887
finished yield, n—in knitted fabrics, the number of finished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound) of finished
fabric. D3887
flagging, n—in sewn seams, a mode of failure evidenced by slippage of one or more yarns entirely out of the original seam.
D4033
flat duck, n—duck fabric having the warp of two single yarns woven as one and either single or plied filling yarn. (See also
duck.) D4850
flexibility, n—that property of a material to endure repeated flexing, bending, or bowing without rupture. D3885, D4850
flexural rigidity, n—general—resistance to bending; specific—work per unit width which is required to bend a fabric to unit
radius of curvature. D1388
float, n—in woven fabrics, that portion of a warp or filling yarn that extends unbound over two or more warp or filling yarns;
in knitted fabrics, that portion of a yarn that is not knitted into loops.
DISCUSSION—
If intentionally introduced, floats are a constructional characteristic of knit or woven fabrics. If unintentionally present, they are considered to be
defects. D4850
foam tear, n—a condition wherein the foam portion of a laminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond. D2724
force, n—a physical influence exerted by one body on another which produces acceleration of bodies that are free to move and
deformation of bodies that are not free to move. [D13.59] D4848, D4964
force-recovery cycle, n—in elastic fabric testing, a continuous curve or plot of force versus elongation (with movement stopped
momentarily at point of reversal) describing the elongation and recovery of an elastic fabric; also known as the loading and
unloading cycle. D1775
D4850 − 23
fused fabric, n—a type of bonded fabric made by adhering a fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use in an interlining.
D2724
fusible fabric, n—a utilitarian fabric which has a thermoplastic adhesive applied to one side, sometimes in a pattern of dots, so
that the surface can be bonded to another fabric surface by the use of heat and pressure. D2724
fuzz, n—tangled fiber ends that protrude from the surface of a yarn or fabric. [ D13.60] D3511D3511/D3511M, D3512D3512/
D3512M, D4970D4970/D4970M
gage, n—in knitted fabrics, a measure of fineness expressing the number of needles per unit of width (across the wales). D4850
gage, n—in full-fashioned hosiery, a measure of fineness expressing the number of needles per 38 m (1.5 in.) on the needle bar.
D4850
gage, n—in warp knitting, for simplex, tricot, milanese, number of needles per English inch; for raschel, kayloom, twice the
number of needles per English inch. D4850
gaiting, n—in warp knitting, the setting of a guide bar one or more needle spaces to the right or left in order to increase the
pattern possibilities. D4850
grab test, n—in fabric testing, a tensile test in which the central part of the width of the specimen is gripped in the clamps.
DISCUSSION—
For example, if the specimen width is 100 mm (4.0 in.) and the width of the jaw faces 25 mm (1.0 in.), the specimen is gripped in the clamp with
approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in.) of fabric protruding from each side of the jaws. D4850, D5034
grade, n—in warp knitting, a term used to indicate the defect index evaluation of fabric determined by the number of defects
per unit, for example per pound, per linear yard, or per square yard. D4350, D4850
grade, v—to assign a numerical value based on number, size, and severity of defects seen during a visual inspection. D5430
hooked bow, n—a fabric condition in which the filling yarns or knitted courses are in the proper position for most of the fabric
width but are pulled out of alignment at one side of the fabric. (See also double hooked bow.) D3882
impregnated fabric, n—a fabric in which the interstices between the yarns are completely filled with the impregnating
compound throughout the thickness of the fabric, as distinguished from sized or coated fabrics, where these interstices are not
completely filled.
DISCUSSION—
A fabric woven from impregnated yarns, but not impregnated after weaving, is not an impregnated fabric. D4850
inspection, n—the process of measuring, examining, testing, gaging, or otherwise comparing a characteristic or property of a
material with applicable requirements. In this case only by visual examination. D5430
interlining, n—any textile which is intended for incorporation into an article of wearing apparel as a layer between an outer shell
and inner lining. D2724
jacket, n—a textile, woven or felted into tubular or sleeve form, ready for covering and shrinking on a machine roll. D4850
knitted fabric, n—a structure produced by interlooping one or more ends of yarn or comparable material. D3786D3786/
D3786M, D3787, D3789, D3882, D3887, D4850, D5378
D4850 − 23
laid fabric, n—a fabric made without filling yarn, the parallel warp yarns being held together by means of rubber latex or other
binding material. D4850
laminated fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, such as
polyurethane foam, in such a way that the
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