ASTM D7722-22

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Designation: D7722 − 17 D7722 − 22
Standard Terminology Relating to
Industrial Textile Stitches and SeamsAssembly of Textile
Structures
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7722; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This terminology covers identifies industrial terms related to stitches and seams related to industrial textiles.that are used for
the assembly of textile structures.
1.2 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into two subsections, specific to the two areas of specialization under this document.
1.2.1 Section 3.1 Relating to Seams.
1.2.2 Section 3.2 Relating to Stitches.
1.3 For other terms relating to textiles refer to Terminology D123.
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D1683/D1683M Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
D1908 Test Method for Needle-Related Damage Due to Sewing in Woven Fabrics
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D5646 Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions Relating to Seams:
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
Current edition approved July 15, 2017April 1, 2022. Published August 2017May 2022. Originally approved in 2011. Last previous edition approved in 20132017 as
D7722-13.D7722-17. DOI: 10.1520/D7722-17.10.1520/D7722-22.
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volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
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D7722 − 22
critical sewn seam—as related to assembly of sewn textile structures, those junctions of textile fabric sections where failure of
the seam assembly results in the textile structure being unable to meet the performance requirements for the intended use. (See
seam failure; sewn seam strength).
DISCUSSION—
Textile fabrics, which are manufactured at fixed widths and rolled on holders having various lengths, need to be cut into various shapes for assembly
and manufacture of end use textile items. The types of end use items can vary from a small bag with drawstring to a large geotextile stabilization
2 2 2 2
project. As such, the fabrics used for the end use projects can have a mass from 2 oz/yd (67 g/m ) up 80 oz/yd (2665 g/m ); and a tensile strength
from 3 lbf (13N) up to 1200 lbf (5350 N).
It is anticipated that based on the fabric structure and end use assembly, critical seams be able to achieve seam efficiency that is from 60 % to 80 %
of the fabric tensile strength. While a fabric having tensile strength of 13N is anticipated to demonstrate seam efficiency of approximately 10 N, 80
% of the fabric tensile strength; it is anticipated that a fabric having a tensile strength of 5350 N will have a seam efficiency of approximately 3200
N, 60 % of fabric tensile strength.
double-stitched seam-finish, n—a finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which another row of machine stitching is made
through both seam allowances placed together. D1683/D1683M, D6193
grin, v—in sewn seams, to stress a seam so that the individual stitches can be seen.
needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passing through
a fabric during sewing.
DISCUSSION—
This can also be referred to as needle cuts. D1908-89
seam, n—a line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually near the edge. (See also sewn seam.seam, See Terminology
D5646 for glued seam,stapled seam, and thermally bonded seam.) D6193
seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that edge.
D1683/D1683M, D6193
seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam. D1683/D1683M, D6193
DISCUSSION—
A seam assembly may be described in terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch type, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s)
and type(s) stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching. D1683/D1683M
seam damage, n— in sewn fabrics, an adverse change in the physical condition of one or more of the components in a seam
which would reduce the seam acceptability such as yarn slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture. D6193
seam efficiency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio, expressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to rupture a sewn seam
to that required to rupture the fabric; seam strength to fabric strength. D1683/D1683M, D6193
DISCUSSION—
For some constructions, yarn strength and stitchtype can contribute to a higher seam efficiency value. D6193
seam engineering, n—in sewn fabrics, the procedures used to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam
type, and stitch density to achieve the maximum sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type. D1683/D1683M
seam failure, n— in sewn fabrics, that point at which an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures the fabric,
(3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to the stitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptable conditions.
D1683/D1683M
DISCUSSION—
Despite the lack of rupture, excessive seam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency, or, result in an unsightly appearance thus creating
seam failure. D1683/D1683M
D7722 − 22
seam interaction, n—in sewn fabrics, the net effect of the relationship between the combination of fabric, seam type, stitch type,
and stitch density on seam efficiency. D1683/D1683M
seam slippage, n—in sewn fabrics, a mode of failure in production seams; the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and
adjacent to the stitch line. D1683/D1683M, D6193
DISCUSSION—
Shown as a transverse ratio of junction strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation of fabric to the ratio of elongation at the junction.
Seam slippage occurs when fabric yarns parallel to the stitch line move away from the seam. It is caused by the yarns in the fabric pulling out from
the stitch line, and manifests itself as a gaping opening. Any movement of the warp and weft yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses,
which exacerbate the potential damage. (See yarn slippage.) D1683/D1683M
seam type, n—in sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and
rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam. D1683/D1683M, D6193
DISCUSSION—
The first two letters of the designation show seam type; the third and subsequent letters specify a particular mating alignment; the number designation
indicates the number of rows of stitches. D1683/D1683M
sew, v—to unite or fasten with stitches. D6193
sewing thread, n—a flexible, small-diameter yarn or strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or both, intended
to b
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