ISO 9867:2022

INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 9867
Third edition
2022-10
Textiles — Evaluation of the wrinkle
recovery of fabrics — Appearance
method
Textiles — Évaluation de la défroissabilité des étoffes — Méthode
d'évaluation de l'aspect
Reference number
ISO 9867:2022(E)
© ISO 2022

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ISO 9867:2022(E)
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© ISO 2022
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
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Published in Switzerland
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ISO 9867:2022(E)
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 1
5 Apparatus and materials .1
6 Atmospheres for conditioning, testing and evaluation . 4
7 Test specimens . 4
7.1 Preparation . 4
7.2 Conditioning. 4
8 Procedure .4
9 Evaluation . 5
10 Expression of results . 6
11 Test report . 6
Annex A (informative) Digital description of the ISO wrinkle replicas . 7
Bibliography .21
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ISO 9867:2022(E)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
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organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to
the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 2, Cleansing,
finishing and water resistance tests.
This third edition cancels and replaces the second edition (ISO 9867:2009), which has been technically
revised.
The main changes are as follows:
— Clause 3, Terms and definitions, has been added and subsequent clauses have been renumbered;
— requirements for “Wrinkle tester” has been added in 5.1 (former 4.1);
— Figure 1 has been improved;
— a “timer” has been added in the list of apparatus in Clause 5 (former Clause 4);
— the requirements of atmospheres for preconditioning, conditioning and testing have been revised;
— addition of “If the rating appears between two ratings, intermediate rating can be used in increments
of a half for a rating (for example, No. 3,5).” in 9.4 (Former 8.4);
— the description of wrinkle rating has been added in Table 1;
— the annex on the “Summary of an international interlaboratory study on wrinkle recovery of fabrics”
has been deleted and the former Annex B has been relabelled as Annex A.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
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INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 9867:2022(E)
Textiles — Evaluation of the wrinkle recovery of fabrics —
Appearance method
1 Scope
This document specifies a method for evaluating the appearance of textile fabrics after induced
wrinkling.
This document is applicable to all kinds of textile fabrics.
NOTE A digital description of the ISO wrinkle replicas is given in Annex A.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 105-A03, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part A03: Grey scale for assessing staining
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
wrinkle recovery
property of a fabric which enables it to recover from wrinkling deformations
4 Principle
A test specimen is wrinkled under a specified atmospheric condition in a wrinkling device under a pre-
determined load for a prescribed period of time. After reconditioned, the test specimen is evaluated
for appearance by comparison with three-dimensional wrinkle recovery replicas or wrinkle rating
description.
5 Apparatus and materials
5.1 Wrinkle tester (see Figure 1), consisting of the following parts:
a) a circular top flange and a circular bottom flange, with the diameter of (89,0 ± 0,5) mm, and the
distance of (110 ± 1) mm between the initial position of the top flange and the bottom flange to
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ensure that the top flange can rotate (180 ± 1) while moving down to the bottom. The mass of the
top flange is approximately 500 g;
b) a weight-piece, with a mass of 3 500 g;
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ISO 9867:2022(E)
c) specimen clamps, for holding the test specimen;
d) locking pin, for fixing the top flange in the initial position.
NOTE Equivalent devices can be used if they can be shown to lead to the same results.
Key
1 top flange
2 specimen clamps
3 bottom flange
4 locking pin
5 test specimen
6 weight-piece
Figure 1 — Wrinkle tester
5.2 Three-dimensional wrinkle recovery replicas (see Figure 2).
5.3 Lighting and evaluation area, in a darkened room, using the overhead lighting arrangement
illustrated in Figure 3 and comprising the items described in the following list. The lamp dimensions
should be chosen to extend beyond the overall surface of the test specimen and replicas, when used for
the assessment.
a) Two cool white (CW) fluorescent lamps, without a baffle or glass, a minimum of 2 m in length
each, placed side by side.
b) One white enamel reflector, without a baffle or glass.
c) One thick plywood viewing board, painted grey to match the Grade 2 on the grey scale for
assessing staining in accordance with ISO 105-A03.
5.4 Clothes hangers with clips, to hang test specimens for conditioning and grading.
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ISO 9867:2022(E)
5.5 Timer, with an accuracy of 0,2 s.
Figure 2 — Wrinkle recovery replicas
Dimensions in metres
Key
1 replica
2 test specimen
3 board for viewing
4 example of fluorescent lamp placement
Figure 3 — Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens
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ISO 9867:2022(E)
6 Atmospheres for conditioning, testing and evaluation
The atmospheres for preconditioning, conditioning, testing and evaluation shall be as specified in
ISO 139.
7 Test specimens
7.1 Preparation
The test specimens shall be taken not less than 150 mm from the fabric selvedge. No test specimens are
taken from the same longitudinal or transverse direction.
Cut three test specimens from the fabric to be tested, each measuring 150 mm × 280 mm, and each with
the long dimension parallel to the warp direction (woven fabric), or the wale direction (knitted fabric),
or the direction marked “length” (nonwoven fabric). Identify each specimen along one edge of the face
side.
Cut the test specimens from an area of the fabric that is free from wrinkles. If any wrinkles are
unavoidably present in the test specimens, press each test specimen lightly with a steam iron before
conditioning.
7.2 Conditioning
Precondition and then condition the test specimens in accordance with ISO 139.
8 Procedure
8.1 Raise the top flange of the wrinkle tester (5.1) and hold it in the top position with the locking pin.
8.2 Wrap one long edge (i.e. the 280 mm side) of a preconditioned and conditioned test specimen
(see 7.2) around the top flange of the wrinkle tester, with the face side of the test specimen on the
outside, and clamp it in position using the steel spring and clamp provided. Arrange the ends of the test
specimen so that they are opposite the opening in the spring clamp.
8.3 Wrap the opposite long edge of the test bspecimen around the bottom flange and clamp it as
described in 8.2.
8.4 Adjust the test specimen by pulling on its bottom edge so that it lies smooth without sagging
between the top and bottom flanges.
8.5 Withdraw the locking pin. The top flange is lowered gently to the bottom flange while horizontally
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rotating (180 ± 1) .
8.6 Immediately place a weight-piece with the mass of 3 500 g on the top flange and record the time.
There can be differences in the weights supplied with different wrinkle testers. If necessary, add
additional weights to the top flange to achieve a total mass of 3 500 g on the top flange.
8.7 After (20,0 ± 0,1) min, remove the weight-piece, the springs and the clamps. Raise the top flange
and gently remove the test specimen from the wrinkle tester so as not to distort any induced wrinkles.
8.8 With a minimum of handling, place the shorter edge (i.e. the 150 mm side) under the clips on the
clothes hanger (5.4) and allow the test specimen to hang vertically in the long direction.
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ISO 9867:2022(E)
8.9 After 24 h in the standard atmosphere (see Clause 6), gently remove the hanger with the specimen
and transfer it to the evaluation area (5.3).
9 Evaluation
9.1 Three trained observers shall rate each test specimen independently.
Since previous tests have proven that specimens change in appearance during the first few hours, it is
important that accurate times be observed and that a minimum time elapse while the three observers
are evaluating the specimens. Because of these changing conditions, the duration of recovery before
rating for this method has been standardized at 24 h.
9.2 Mount the test specimen on the viewing board [5.3 c)] as illustrated in Figure 3, with the warp,
wale or marked “length” direction vertical. Place three-dimensional wrinkle recovery replicas (5.2),
one on each side of the test specimen, to facilitate comparative rating. Mount replicas 1, 3 or 5 on the
left side and 2 or 4 on the right side.
The overhead fluorescent light shall be the only light source for the viewing board, and all other lights
in the room shall be turned off.
It has been the experience of many observers that light reflected from the side walls near the viewing
board can interfere with the rating results. It is recommended that the side walls be painted black,
or that blackout curtains be mounted on either side of the viewing board, to eliminate reflective
interference.
9.3 The observer shall stand directly in front of the specimen, 1,20 m away from the bottom front of
the board.
NOTE It has been found that normal variations in the height of the observer above and below the arbitrary
1,50 m eye level have no significant effect on the rating given.
9.4 Assign the number of the replica which most closely matches the appearance of the test specimen
(see Table 1). If the rating appears between two ratings, intermediate rating can be used in increments
of a half for a rating (for example, No. 3,5).
NOTE A No. 5 rating is equivalent to the WR-5 replica and represents the smoothest appearance and best
retention of the original appearance. A No. 1 rating is equivalent to the WR-1 replica and represents the poorest
appearance and poorest retention of the original appearan
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