prEN 18039

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-junij-2024
Gorniška oprema - Samovarovala za rekreativno uporabo - Varnostne zahteve in
preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Autobelay devices for recreational use - Safety
requirements and test methods
Persönliche Absturzschutzausrüstung - Selbstsicherungs-Automaten im
Freizeitsportbereich - Sicherheitsanforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Auto-assureur automatique pour le loisir
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 18039
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

DRAFT
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
March 2024
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Autobelay devices for
recreational use - Safety requirements and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Auto-assureur Bergsteigerausrüstung - Automatische
automatique pour le loisir Selbstsicherungsgeräte für Freizeitnutzung
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee
CEN/TC 136.
If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations
which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.

This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other
language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC
Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are
aware and to provide supporting documentation.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without
notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.

EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2024 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 18039:2024 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
European foreword . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 6
4 Requirements . 10
4.1 Design, materials and construction . 10
4.1.1 General. 10
4.1.2 Retractable safety line . 11
4.1.3 Connection element . 12
4.1.4 Safety line extension . 12
4.2 Retraction system . 13
4.2.1 Retraction system check . 13
4.2.2 Retraction system malfunction . 13
4.2.3 Twisting . 13
4.2.4 Retraction speed . 13
4.3 Dynamic strength . 13
4.3.1 Dynamic strength performance . 13
4.3.2 Dyno performance . 13
4.3.3 Freefall performance . 14
4.3.4 Dynamic performance of energy dissipating element . 14
4.4 Function . 14
4.4.1 General. 14
4.4.2 Standard use . 14
4.4.3 Use in wet and cold conditions . 14
4.4.4 Use in wet and very cold conditions . 15
4.4.5 Use in dry and very cold conditions . 15
4.5 Descent energy. 15
4.6 Static strength . 16
4.7 Corrosion resistance . 16
4.8 Electrical supported systems . 16
5 Test methods . 17
5.1 Test samples . 17
5.2 Examination . 17
5.3 Retraction system tests . 17
5.3.1 Retraction system check . 17
5.3.2 Retraction system malfunction . 17
5.3.3 Twisting . 18
5.3.4 Retraction speed . 19
5.4 Dynamic strength tests . 19
5.4.1 Shock load test of autobelay device . 19
5.4.2 Dyno test of autobelay devices . 20
5.4.3 Free fall performance test for autobelay device class B . 22
5.4.4 Dynamic performance of safety line extension with energy dissipating element . 23
5.5 Function tests . 23
5.5.1 Dry condition . 23
5.5.2 Wet condition . 23
5.5.3 Wet and cold condition . 23
5.5.4 Wet and very cold condition . 24
5.5.5 Dry and very cold condition . 24
5.6 Descent energy test . 24
5.7 Static strength test . 26
5.7.1 General . 26
5.7.2 Static strength test of safety line end termination in autobelay device . 26
5.7.3 Static strength test of autobelay device . 27
5.7.4 Static strength of retractable safety line . 27
5.8 Corrosion resistance test . 27
6 Marking . 28
6.1 General . 28
6.2 On the device . 28
6.3 On a termination of the retractable safety line. 28
6.4 On the climb start . 29
7 Manufacturer’s instructions and information . 29
Annex A (informative) Autobelay Device Belay Gate . 31
Annex B (informative) Examples for pictograms at autobelay device climbing start . 32
Annex C (informative) Speed climbing immanent risk . 33
Annex D (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 34
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the safety
requirements of Directive 2001/95/EC aimed to be covered . 36
Bibliography . 37

European foreword
This document (prEN 18039:2024) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 WG 5
“Mountaineering Equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
This document has been prepared under a standardization request addressed to CEN by the European
Commission. The Standing Committee of the EFTA States subsequently approves these requests for its
Member States.
For the relationship with EU Legislation, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
1 Scope
This document specifies requirements, test methods, marking and information to be supplied for
autob
...