ASTM D6193-97(2004)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D 6193 – 97 (Reapproved 2004)
Standard Practice for
Stitches and Seams
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
TABLE 1 Stitch and Seam Defects
1. Scope
Stitch Defects Seam Assembly Defects
1.1 Thispracticecoverstherequirementsandcharacteristics
Loose stitches Puckers
of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
Poorly formed stitches Twists
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and
Crowded stitches Plaits
general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the
Tight stitches Undulations
Crooked stitches Run-off (raised seams)
fabrication of sewn items.
Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed
1.3 Subsequenttoageneraldiscussionofstitchesandseams
(felled seams)
that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the
following sections that are listed in the order in which they
appear:
D 4034 Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at the
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which
Sewn Seam in Woven Upholstery Fabrics – Plain, Tufted,
drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-62,
or Flocked
1.3.2 Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which
drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 63-281, and
3. Terminology
1.3.3 Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations.
3.1 Definitions:
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
3.1.1 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
passing through a fabric during sewing.
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
3.1.1.1 Discussion—This can also be referred to as needle
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
cuts.
3.1.2 seam, n—a line where two or more fabrics are joined,
2. Referenced Documents
usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapled
2.1 ASTM Standards:
seam, thermally bonded seam.)
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.1.3 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics,thedistancefrom
D 204 Test Methods for Sewing Threads
the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
D 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in
edge.
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam
3.1.4 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
D 1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seam of Woven
when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
Fabrics
3.1.5 seam damage, n—in sewn fabrics, an adverse change
D 1908 Test Method for Needle Related Damage Due to
in the physical condition of one or more of the components in
Sewing in Woven Fabrics
aseamwhichwouldreducetheseamacceptabilitysuchasyarn
D 3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) and
slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.
Elongation of Sewn Seams of Knit and Woven Stretch
3.1.6 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam
Textile Fabrics
strength to fabric strength.
3.1.6.1 Discussion—For some constructions, yarn strength
andstitchtypecancontributetoahigherseamefficiencyvalue.
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand
3.1.7 seam slippage, n—in sewn fabrics, the displacement
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originally
3.1.8 seam type, n—in sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric des-
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 1997 as D 6193 – 97.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
ignation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
seam.
the ASTM website.
Withdrawn. 3.1.9 sew, v—to unite or fasten with stitches.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 6193 – 97 (2004)
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the
undersurface of the material.
FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A8. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A8 shall
be interlooped with itself and with thread A.
FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread
shall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.
FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103
3.1.10 sewing thread, n—a flexible, small-diameter yarn or
strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or
both, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of
material or an object to a material.
3.1.11 sewn seam, n—in sewn fabrics, a juncture at which
two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined
by sewing, usually near the edge.
3.1.12 stitch, n—in sewing, the configuration of the inter-
lacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See also
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread
stitching, and stitch type.)
which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.
3.1.13 stitch density, n—in sewn seams, the number of
FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104
stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam.
3.1.13.1 Discussion—This is usually expressed as stitches 3.1.14 stitch gage, n—in sewn seams, the perpendicular
per inch (spi). distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.
D 6193 – 97 (2004)
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of the
bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at the
center line.
FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A8, which shall be passed through the material in the same perforations
from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.
FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths,
passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.
FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202
3.1.15 stitch type, n—in sewn seams, a numerical designa- 4. Significance and Use
tion relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of
4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch
sewing thread(s) in a specified stitch.
type,seamconfiguration,andthreadtypewhichshouldbeused
3.1.16 stitching, n—a series of stitches embodied in a
for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of
material or materials of planar structure such as woven textile
many variables. The improper selection of any one component
fabricsusuallyforornamentalpurposesorfinishinganedge,or
can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure
both.
of the product manufactured.
3.1.17 yarn slippage, n—in sewn seams in sewn fabrics, the
4.2 General Characteristics—The characteristics of a prop-
displacement of one or more yarns from the original position,
causing differences in alignment, spacing, or both. erly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability,
security, and appearance. These characteristics must be bal-
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
practice, refer to Terminology D 123. anced with the properties of the material to be joined to form
D 6193 – 97 (2004)
to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and
unraveling of certain stitch types.
4.2.5 Appearance—The appearance of a sewn seam gener-
allyisgovernedbytheproperrelationshipbetweenthesizeand
type of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of
the fabric.
4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, the
technique and skill of the sewing machine operators also
govern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factors
which will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Table
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread,
1.
which shall be passed through the material from the underside and
immediately passed back through the same perforation to form a loop on
5. Classification of Stitch Types
thesurfaceofthematerial.Theneedleshallbeadvancedonestitchlength,
passed through the material and the loop and immediately passed back 5.1 Function—Because all stitch types require that a needle
through the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall be
penetrate a fabric while transporting a sewing thread, it is
formed to receive the succeeding stitch.
important to understand how the unique characteristics of
FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203
every stitch type are dependent upon the mechanical actions of
the sewing machine. See Stitch Type Figs. 1-62.
5.2 Stitch Requirements:
the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern
5.2.1 Stitches are divided into six classes which are identi-
the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection
fied by the first digit of three digit numerals. Each class is
of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these
divided into several types which are identified by the second
considerations.
and third digit. All stitch types shall conform to the drawings
4.2.1 Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam
unless otherwise specified.
should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam
5.2.1.1 Stitch Class 100—This class of stitch (Types 101
strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the
through 105) is formed with one or more needle threads and
forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements
requires interlooping. A loop (or loops) of thread(s) shall be
affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:
passed through the material and be secured by interlooping
4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,
with succeeding loop or loops, after they are passed through
4.2.1.2 Seam type,
the material, to form a stitch.
4.2.1.3 Stitch type,
5.2.1.2 Stitch Class 200—This class of stitch (Types 201
4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),
through 205) is formed by hand with one or more needle
4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and
threads and requires that each thread passes through the
4.2.1.6 Thread strength.
material as a single line of thread. Each stitch is secured by the
4.2.2 Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be
single line of thread passing in and out of the material or the
slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This
interlooping of the threads with themselves. When more than
will enable the material to support its share of the forces
one thread is used, the threads pass through the same perfora-
encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The
tions in the material.
elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon:
5.2.1.3 Stitch Class 300—This class of stitch (Types 301
4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,
through 316) is formed with two or more groups of threads and
4.2.2.2 Seam type,
requires the interlacing of the two groups. Loops of the first
4.2.2.3 Stitch type,
group are passed through the material where they are secured
4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),
by the thread(s) of the second group to form a stitch.
4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and
4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity. 5.2.1.4 Stitch Class 400—This class of stitch (Types 401
through 407) shall be formed with two or more groups of
4.2.3 Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends
largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam threads and requires the interlacing and interlooping of the
loops of the two groups. Loops of the first group of threads are
and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic,
tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and
interlooping with loops of the second group to form a stitch.
plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn
seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully 5.2.1.5 Stitch Class 500—This class of stitch (Types 501
chosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully deter- through 522) is formed with one or more groups of thread, and
mined for the material so as not to cause excess tension which requires that loops from at least one group of thread shall pass
will unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is also around the edge of the material. Loops of one group of thread
important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with arepassedthroughthematerialandaresecuredbyinterlooping
outside agencies to promote durability. with themselves before succeeding loops are passed through
4.2.4 Security—The security of a sewn seam depends the material, or secured by interlooping with loops of one or
chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to more interlooped groups of threads before succeeding loops of
become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material the first group are again passed through the material.
D 6193 – 97 (2004)
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back one stitch length
and then passed back up through the material. The needle shall be moved diagonally across the material and forward one stitch length, passed through
the material, brought back one stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This process shall be repeated to form a crisscross pattern
of stitches on the surface and parallel rows of separated and off-set stitches on the underside of the material.
FIG. 9 Stitch Type 204
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread does not interloop with
itself or any other thread or threads. The thread is passed completely throu
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