ASTM D1683/D1683M-22
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 The manufacturing of textile products uses seam engineering to determine the best combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density to construct the end use structure. These four seam engineering variables contribute to a textile product being able to achieve the maximum sewn seam strength performance and structural integrity when cut pieces of fabric are joined together.
5.1.1 It is known that for some textile structures the seam engineering variables are selected to meet a “one time performance requirement.” This means that following the “single incident” during which the maximum performance potential or capability of the textile structure has been met, it is expected to be discarded and replaced with another “new” unit. For example: an inflatable restraint in an automobile. Once deployed, it must be replaced; it cannot be re-used. Likewise, there are other textile structures, intended to be used multiple times, while also being subjected to various care and maintenance regimens.
5.1.2 This test method enables the fabric producer of woven fabrics, the textile producer, and other users of the test method to determine which seam engineering choices can be made relative to: sewing thread tex size; seam type; stitch type; and stitch density to determine the potential outcomes that can occur when a particular woven fabric is used:
(a) What is the maximum force at which sewn seam strength failure will enable products made with this fabric to be repaired?
(b) What is the highest seam efficiency percentage attained?
(c) What is the maximum force at which the sewn seam strength results in seam slippage that can cause yarn slippage, yarn displacement and fabric failure?
5.1.2.1 The maximum force at which sewn seam strength or the highest seam efficiency retained demonstrate failure of the stitching without causing the displacement of one or more fabric yarns from their original position mean that the product can be repaired. When the...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can represent either the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axis tested when using grab Test Method D5034.
1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples using one of two specific seam assemblies as shown in Table 1.
Note 1: When the performance of a woven textile structure requires data to indicate the maximum seam strength that will result in the failure of fabric on either side of seam, the standard seam can be changed to use the Lapped seam type construction with two or more rows of stitching: Lsc-2; Lsc-3; Lsc-4; and the maximum number of stitches per inch that can be used. (See Practice D6193.)
1.2 This test method is used when the maximum breaking force measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.
1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiency measurement of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.
1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seam strength threshold at which the failure of the stitching occurs, without damage to the fabric, so that the textile product can be repaired.
1.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at which seam strength results in slippage and displacement of warp yarns, filling yarns, or any combination of these yarns.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the...
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This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:D1683/D1683M −22
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
INTRODUCTION
The structural integrity of textile products made of woven fabrics is dependent on how well the
pieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requires
understanding the inter-relationship between two distinct test methods.
(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric using Test Method D5034. This standard is used to measure the resistance of
awovenfabrictoruptureinthewarpdirectionand,thefillingyarndirection.Thetestmethodmeasurestheforceneededtorupture
the fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This loss of structural integrity causes yarn
slippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.
(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an analysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to be
completed by the fabric weaver or textile product manufacturer. While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewn
seam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about the expected
performance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build the textile product intended to perform
for a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular care
and maintenance to include repairs?
(c) Thesecondevaluationisdonebyusingthistestmethod,D1683/D1683M,totestfabricsectionsthathavebeencutandthen
sewntogetherusingproceduresthatselectaspecificcombinationofsewingthread,stitchtype,seamtype,andstitchdensity.These
are the seam engineering variables that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar to
that when tested using Test Method D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabric
integrity,andthefailureofthetextilestructure; (2)thesewingthreadusedinthespecificstitchconfigurationwillrupture,ataforce
less than 85 % of the fabric break strength, such that the fabric integrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structure
along the same axis.
1. Scope 1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiency
measurement of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in
1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seam
woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn
strength threshold at which the failure of the stitching occurs,
seams.
without damage to the fabric, so that the textile product can be
1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can represent
repaired.
either the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axis
1.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at which
tested when using grab Test Method D5034.
seam strength results in slippage and displacement of warp
1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams ob-
yarns, filling yarns, or any combination of these yarns.
tained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with
fabric samples using one of two specific seam assemblies as
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor-
shown in Table 1.
mance of a seam.
1.2 This test method is used when the maximum breaking
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units
force measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam is
are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in
required.
each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each
system shall be used independently of the other. Combining
1 values from the two systems may result in non-conformance
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
with the standard.
Current edition approved April 1, 2022. Published April 2022. Originally
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
approved in 1990. Last previous edition approved in 2017 as D1683–17 (2018).
DOI: 10.1520/D1683_D1683M-22. safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
Copyright © A
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D1683/D1683M − 17 (Reapproved 2018) D1683/D1683M − 22
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
INTRODUCTION
The structural integrity of textile products made of woven fabrics is dependent on how well the
pieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requires
understanding the inter-relationship between two distinct test methods.
(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric using Test Method D5034. This standard is used to measure the resistance of
a woven fabric to rupture in the warp direction and, the filling yarn direction. The test method measures the force needed to rupture
the fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This loss of structural integrity causes yarn
slippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.
(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an analysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to be
completed by the fabric weaver or textile product manufacturer. While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewn
seam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about the expected
performance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build the textile product intended to perform
for a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular care
and maintenance to include repairs?
(c) The second evaluation is done by using this test method, D1683/D1683M, to test fabric sections that have been cut and then
sewn together using procedures that select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density. These
are the seam engineering variables that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar to
that when tested using Test Method D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabric
integrity, and the failure of the textile structure; (2) the sewing thread used in the specific stitch configuration will rupture, at a force
less than 85 % of the fabric break strength, such that the fabric integrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structure
along the same axis.
1. Scope
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can represent either the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axis tested
when using grab Test Method D5034.
1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples
using one of two specific seam assemblies as shown in Table 1.
1.2 This test method is used when the maximum breaking force measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
Current edition approved March 15, 2018April 1, 2022. Published April 2017April 2022. Originally approved in 1990. Last previous edition approved in 2017 as
ɛ1
D1683–17 . (2018). DOI: 10.1520/D1683_D1683M-17R18.10.1520/D1683_D1683M-22.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
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D1683/D1683M − 22
A
TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly Specification
2 2
Fabric Mass: # 4 oz/yd [130 g/m ]
Procedure A Procedure B
2 2 2 2
Mass up to 4 oz/yd [130 g ⁄m ] up to 4 oz/yd [130 g ⁄m ]
Seam allowance 13 mm [0.5 in.] 13 mm [0.5 in.]
Needle:
Size Metric 90 [0.036 in.] Metric 90 [0.036 in.]
Finish chrome chrome
Point thin ball (No. 1/No. 23) thin ball (No. 1/No. 23)
Sewing thread size:
Spun Polyester Tex 40 Tex 40
Polyester-Core Tex 40 Tex 40
Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1
Stitch Type 301 401
1 1
Stitch Density 4.7 ± ⁄2 stitch
...
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