EN ISO 17751-1:2023

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-september-2023
Tekstilije - Kvantitativna analiza kašmirskih, volnenih, drugih specialnih živalskih
vlaken in njihovih mešanic - 1. del: Mikroskopska metoda s svetlobo (ISO 17751-
1:2023)
Textiles - Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their
blends - Part 1: Light microscopy method (ISO 17751-1:2023)
Textilien - Quantitative Analyse von Kaschmir, Wolle, anderen speziellen tierischen
Fasern und deren Mischungen - Teil1:Lichtmikroskopie-Verfahren (ISO 17751-1:2023)
Textiles - Analyse quantitative du cachemire, de la laine, d'autres fibres animales
spéciales et de leurs mélanges - Partie 1: Méthode de microscopie optique (ISO 17751-
1:2023)
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN ISO 17751-1:2023
ICS:
59.060.10 Naravna vlakna Natural fibres
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EN ISO 17751-1
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
July 2023
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 59.060.10 Supersedes EN ISO 17751-1:2016
English Version
Textiles - Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other
specialty animal fibers and their blends - Part 1: Light
microscopy method (ISO 17751-1:2023)
Textiles - Analyse quantitative du cachemire, de la Textilien - Quantitative Analyse von Kaschmir, Wolle,
laine, d'autres fibres animales spéciales et de leurs anderen speziellen tierischen Fasern und deren
mélanges - Partie 1: Méthode de microscopie optique Mischungen - Teil1:Lichtmikroskopie-Verfahren (ISO
(ISO 17751-1:2023) 17751-1:2023)
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 July 2023.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN ISO 17751-1:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
European foreword . 3

European foreword
This document (EN ISO 17751-1:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38
"Textiles" in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” the
secretariat of which is held by BSI.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by January 2024, and conflicting national standards shall
be withdrawn at the latest by January 2024.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes EN ISO 17751-1:2016.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards
body/national committee. A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,
Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of
North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the
United Kingdom.
Endorsement notice
The text of ISO 17751-1:2023 has been approved by CEN as EN ISO 17751-1:2023 without any
modification.
INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 17751-1
Second edition
2023-07
Textiles — Quantitative analysis
of cashmere, wool, other specialty
animal fibres and their blends —
Part 1:
Light microscopy method
Textiles — Analyse quantitative du cachemire, de la laine, d’autres
fibres animales spéciales et de leurs mélanges —
Partie 1: Méthode de microscopie optique
Reference number
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
© ISO 2023
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on
the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below
or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: +41 22 749 01 11
Email: copyright@iso.org
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
Introduction . vi
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 2
5 Reagents . 3
6 Apparatus . 3
7 Sampling . 3
8 Conditioning . 3
9 Preparation of test specimens . 3
9.1 Number of test specimens . 3
9.2 Preparation method for test specimens . 4
9.2.1 Loose fibre. 4
9.2.2 Sliver . . 4
9.2.3 Yarn . 4
9.2.4 Woven fabrics . 4
9.2.5 Knitted fabrics . 5
9.3 Pre-treatment of the laboratory sample . 5
10 Procedure .5
10.1 General . 5
10.2 Setting of magnification with micrometer scale . 5
10.3 Fibre identification and fibre diameter measurement . 5
10.3.1 Projection microscope with graduated scale in millimetre on the screen . 5
10.3.2 Projection microscope used to measure the fibre diameter with wedge
scale or a transparent moveable linear-rule-type scale . 6
10.3.3 Visual microscopic image analyser . 7
10.3.4 Transmitted-light type microscope . 7
11 Calculation and expression of test result . 7
11.1 Calculation of test result . 7
11.2 Expression of test result . 8
12 Test report . 8
Annex A (normative) Drawing of the lot sample and the laboratory sample .9
Annex B (informative) Decolouration .10
Annex C (informative) Surface morphology of common animal fibres .11
Annex D (normative) Density of common animal fibres . 44
Bibliography .45
iii
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO document should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
ISO draws attention to the possibility that the implementation of this document may involve the use
of (a) patent(s). ISO takes no position concerning the evidence, validity or applicability of any claimed
patent rights in respect thereof. As of the date of publication of this document, ISO had not received
notice of (a) patent(s) which may be required to implement this document. However, implementers are
cautioned that this may not represent the latest information, which may be obtained from the patent
database available at www.iso.org/patents. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all
such patent rights.
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to
the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, in collaboration with the
European Committee for Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee CEN/TC 248, Textile and textile
products, in accordance with the Agreement on technical cooperation between ISO and CEN (Vienna
Agreement).
This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 17751-1:2016), which has been technically
revised.
The main changes are as follows:
— in 3.1, a note to entry of different types of speciality animal fibres has been added;
— in 3.5, a note to entry of a micrograph has been added as Figure 1 to indicate the distal edge;
— the title of Clause 5 has been changed to “Reagents” and the reagent used is listed;
— Clause 6, “Apparatus”, has been added and the apparatus are listed with corresponding subclause
numbers; subsequent clause and subclause numbers are changed accordingly;
— in 6.1 and 6.2, requirement on stage micrometer for calibration of magnification has been added;
— in 6.4, two alternative apparatus for scalpel and double blades have been added;
— Clause 7, “Sampling”, has been added and its content is rephrased to match with the property
adjustment of Annex A;
— Clause 8, “Conditioning”, has been added;
— Clause 9 has been added as “Preparation of test specimens”;
iv
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
— in 9.1, the amount of test specimens has been increased, together with the requirement for a third
set of test specimens to be tested in case of discrepancy on the 2 test results;
— the title of 9.2 has been changed from “Preparation of the test specimens” to “Preparation method
for test specimens”;
— in 9.2.1.3, some necessary complementary operations on specimen preparation have been added;
— in 9.2.4.1, missing information on marking of masses of warp and weft yarns and on laboratory
sample has been supplemented;
— in 9.3, the title has been changed from “Decolouring of the laboratory sample” to “Pre-treatment of
the laboratory sample”, and the Soxhlet extraction description has been adjusted into this subclause.
The requirement of reporting of pre-treatment, if applied, has been added in both 9.3.1 and 9.3.2;
— Clause 10 has been renamed as “Procedure”;
— 10.1, “General”, and its content has been added, the subsequent subclauses have been renumbered;
— in 10.3.1.1, the description has been rewritten to elaborate operation procedures and qualitative
test descriptions have been added;
— the title of Clause 11 has been changed from “Calculation of test result” to “Calculation and expression
of test result”;
— 11.1 and 11.2 and their subclause titles have been added, respectively;
— a new Clause 12, Test report, has been added;
— the status of Annex A has been changed from informative to normative;
— in Annex D, density of some fibres has been modified and the density of coarse rabbit has been
added;
— in Annex D, a footnote has been added to coarse rabbit.
A list of all parts in the ISO 17751 series can be found on the ISO website.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
v
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
Introduction
Cashmere is a high-value speciality animal fibre, but cashmere and other animal wool fibres such as
sheep’s wool, yak, camel, etc. exhibit great similarities in their physical and chemical properties, so that
their fibre blends are difficult to distinguish from each other by both mechanical and chemical methods.
In addition, these fibres show similar scale structures. It is very difficult to accurately determine the
fibre content of such fibre blends by current testing means.
Research on the accurate identification of cashmere fibres has been a long undertaking. At present, the
most widely used and reliable techniques include the light microscopy (LM) method and the scanning
electron microscopy (SEM) method.
— The advantage of LM method is that the internal medullation and pigmentation of fibres can be
observed; the disadvantage is that some subtle surface structures cannot be clearly displayed. A
decolouring process needs to be carried out on dark samples for testing, while improper decolouring
process can affect the judgment of fibre analyst.
— The SEM method shows complementary characteristics to those of LM method, so some types of
fibres need to be identified by scanning electron microscope.
The LM and SEM methods need be used together to identify some difficult-to-identify samples in order
to utilize the advantages of both methods.
It has been proven in practice that the accuracy of a fibre analysis is highly related to the ample
experience, full understanding, and extreme familiarity of the fibre analyst to the surface morphology
of various types of animal fibres. In addition to the textual descriptions, micrographs of different types
of animal fibres are given in Annex C.
vi
INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other
specialty animal fibres and their blends —
Part 1:
Light microscopy method
1 Scope
This document specifies a method for the identification, qualitative and quantitative analysis of
cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fibres, and their blends using light microscopy (LM).
It is applicable to loose fibres, intermediate-products, and final products of cashmere, wool, other
speciality animal fibres, and their blends.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
speciality animal fibre
any type of keratin fibre taken from speciality animals (hairs) other than sheep
Note 1 to entry: Speciality animal fibres include cashmere, camel, yak, mohair, angora, rabbit, alpaca etc.
3.2
light microscope
optical instrument used to produce magnified images utilizing a visible light source
Note 1 to entry: Types of microscopes suitable for fibre identification include projection microscopes and visual
microscopic image analysers. Transmitted-light type microscopes with direct graduated scale equipped on
optical lens are also applicable.
3.3
scale
cuticle covering the surface of animal fibres
3.4
scale frequency
number of scales (3.3) along the fibre axis per unit length
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
3.5
scale height
height of the cuticle at the scale’s (3.3) distal edge
Note 1 to entry: The distal edge is shown in Figure 1.
Key
1 distal edge
Figure 1 — Distal edge
3.6
surface morphology
fibre surface morphology
sum of the physical properties/attributes characterizing the fibre surface
Note 1 to entry: The fibre surface morphology includes scale frequency, scale height, patterns of scale edge, scale
surface smoothness, fibre evenness along its axis, transparency under light microscope, etc.
3.7
lot sample
portion representative of the same type and same lot of material drawn according to the requirements
from which it is taken
3.8
laboratory sample
portion drawn from a lot sample (3.7) according to the requirements for preparing test specimens
3.9
test specimen
portion taken from fibre snippets randomly cut from a laboratory sample (3.8) for measurement
purposes
3.10
warping angle
angle of the free edge of the scale (3.3) deviating from the parallel edges of the fibre
4 Principle
A longitudinal view image of fibre snippets representative of a test specimen is magnified to an
appropriate scale/size under optical microscope. All the fibre types found in the test specimen are
identified by comparing them with known fibre surface morphologies for different types of animal
fibres.
For each fibre type, the number and the diameter of the fibre snippets are counted and measured. The
mass fraction is calculated from the data for the number of fibre snippets counted, mean value and
standard deviation of the snippet diameter and the true density of each fibre type.
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
5 Reagents
5.1 Liquid paraffin, with a refractive index between 1,43 and 1,53.
6 Apparatus
6.1 Projection microscope, comprised of a light source, a light condenser, a stage, an objective, an
ocular and a circular transparent viewing screen or non-transparent projection table with a graduated
scale in millimetres. The objective and ocular shall be capable of providing at least a magnification of
500× at the screen. A stage micrometer shall be equipped to calibrate the magnification.
6.2 Visual microscopic image analyser, comprised of a microscope, a camera, a computer, a data
acquisition card, exclusive analysing software and a display. The objective and ocular of the microscope
shall be capable of providing at least a magnification of 500×. A stage micrometer shall be equipped to
calibrate the magnification.
6.3 Transmitted-light type microscope, comprised of a light source, a light condenser, a stage, an
objective, an ocular with a graduated scale. The objective and ocular of this type of microscope shall be
capable of providing a magnification of 400× to 500×.
6.4 Microtome and razor blade, scalpel or double blades.
6.5 Scissors, tweezers, cleaning fabric, watch-glass, etc.
6.6 Slides and cover glasses.
6.7 Wedge scale, with divisions of 500× magnification. A moveable linear ruler-type scale finely
graduated in millimetre may also be used.
7 Sampling
Lot samples and laboratory samples shall be drawn in accordance with the sampling methods described
in Annex A.
8 Conditioning
The laboratory sample shall be conditioned for at least 4 h under the standard atmospheres as defined
in ISO 139.
9 Preparation of test specimens
9.1 Number of test specimens
Prepare two sets of test specimens (see 9.2.1.3).
Fibres shall be sufficient to ensure a total of at least 1 000 fibres to be identified, whatever the number
of operators.
In case of discrepancy on the test results between the two sets, a third set of test specimen shall be
prepared and tested.
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
9.2 Preparation method for test specimens
9.2.1 Loose fibre
9.2.1.1 Put the laboratory sample flat on the test table, pick up approximately 500 mg of fibres
randomly on not less than 20 spots with tweezers from the top and bottom sides of the sample. Blend
them homogeneously and divide them into 3 equal portions. Sort these drawn fibres into basically
parallel fibre bundles.
9.2.1.2 Cut each fibre bundle in the middle with a microtome and razor blade, scalpel or double blades
to get approximately 0,6 mm long fibre snippets. Cut only once in each of the fibre bundles.
9.2.1.3 Place all the fibre snippets on the watch glass, drop appropriate amount of liquid paraffin, stir
with tweezers to make the suspended snippet liquid distribute uniformly on the watch glass, then take
an appropriate amount of this test specimen blend and put on the slide, cover with a cover glass. Remove
redundant sticky media blends to ensure no such media blends are squeezed out after the cover glass is
put on the slide to avoid fibre snippet loss. To facilitate test, the test specimen can be prepared on one
slide with two cover glasses on it, however, ensure that there are at least 500 fibre snippets under each
cover glass. Or other test specimen preparation mode is acceptable ensuring that at least 1 000 fibre
snippets can be tested.
9.2.2 Sliver
9.2.2.1 Cut the laboratory sliver sample into three sections. Take out an appropriate amount of fibre
bundle in the longitudinal direction from each sliver section.
9.2.2.2 Cut in the middle of each fibre bundle to obtain approximately 0,6 mm long fibre snippets
with microtome and razor blade, scalpel or double blades. Cut only once in each fibre bundle.
9.2.2.3 Other operation procedures are the same as described in 9.2.1.3.
9.2.3 Yarn
9.2.3.1 Divide the laboratory sample into 3 equal portions.
9.2.3.2 Cut each portion in the middle with a microtome and razor blade, scalpel or double blades to
obtain approximately 0,6 mm long fibre snippets. Cut only once in each yarn portion.
9.2.3.3 Other operation procedures are the same as described in 9.2.1.3.
9.2.4 Woven fabrics
9.2.4.1 If the warp and weft yarn share the same composition, all yarn segments unravelled from a
rectangular sample of a complete pattern may be cut to obtain an appropriate test specimen. For those
fabric samples composed of different compositions of warp and weft yarns, unravel the warp and weft
yarns separately, weigh them and record their masses as m and m , respectively. If the fabrics have
T W
a definite repetition in the pattern, unravel at least the integral multiple of a complete pattern. The
unravelled warp and weft yarn bundles are kept as warp and weft yarn samples respectively as the
laboratory sample.
9.2.4.2 Cut from the parallel yarn portion in the middle with a microtome and razor blade, scalpel or
double blades to obtain approximately 0,6 mm long fibre snippets. Cut only once in each yarn portion.
ISO 17751-1:2023(E)
9.2.4.3 Other operation procedures are the same as defined in 9.2.1.3.
9.2.5 Knitted fabrics
9.2.5.1 Unravel at least 25 yarn segments from the laboratory sample for woollen knitted fabrics.
Unravel at least 50 yarn segments for worsted knitted fabrics. Cut each yarn portion in the middle to
obtain approximately 0,6 mm long fibre snippets. Cut only once in each yarn portion.
9.2.5.2 Other operation procedures are the same as described in 9.2.1.3.
9.3 Pre-treatment of the laboratory sample
9.3.1 If, prior to analysis, Soxhlet extraction in light petroleum (boiling point between 40 °C and
60 °C) is carried out to remove excess surface greases or oils, it shall be reported.
9.3.2 If a decolouring process is carried out on those dark laboratory samples for which it is difficult to
see the fibre morphology, prepare the test specimens according to requirements in 9.2. The decolouring
process shall be reported. Decolouring methods are given in Annex B.
NOTE The decolouring process can lead to fibre diameters measured from the decoloured fibre different
from those diameters measured from the original fibres taken from fabric or yarns prior to decolouring.
10 Procedure
10.1 General
When possible, the analysis of the two test specimens should be carried out independently by two
operators.
10.2 Setting of magnification with micrometer scale
Put the micrometer with a 0,01 mm scale on the stage. The 20 scales from the micrometre (0,20 mm)
projected on the screen shall be precisely magnified to 100 mm which means the magnification is 500×.
10.3 Fibre identification and fibre diameter measurement
10.3.1 Projection microscope with graduated scale in millimetre on the screen
10.3.1.1 Set the magnification according to 10.2, put the slide with fibre snippets to be tested on the
stage, adjust the focus under stipulated magnification to the most proper resolution, scan the slide in
a raster pattern to ensure that all parts of the slide are covered and avoid the possibility of any fibre
being measured twice. Observe in a proper order the various fibres into the view by comparing fibre
morphology of fibres in test with those shown in Annex C and by combining with other features of
various fibre types, such as fibre axial evenness, fibre lustra, fibre regularity, etc. Qualitatively identify
and record f
...