CEN/TC 248/WG 30 - Quantitative analysis of fibre mixtures

This document specifies a method, using hypochlorite, to determine the mass percentage of protein fibre, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of certain non-protein fibres and certain protein fibres, as follows:
—     wool, other animal-hair (such as cashmere, mohair), silk, protein,
with
—     cotton, cupro, viscose, modal, acrylic, chlorofibres, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, glass, elastane, elastomultiester, elastolefin, melamine and polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent.

This document specifies a method for the identification, qualitative, and quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fibres, and their blends using scanning electron microscopy (SEM).
It is applicable to loose fibres, intermediate products, and final products of cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fibres, and their blends.

This document specifies a method for the identification, qualitative and quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fibres, and their blends using light microscopy (LM). It is applicable to loose fibres, intermediate-products, and final products of cashmere, wool, other speciality animal fibres, and their blends.

This document defines the generic names used to designate the different categories of man-made fibres, based on a main polymer, currently manufactured on an industrial scale for textile and other purposes, together with the distinguishing attributes that characterize them. The term “man-made fibres” has been adopted for those fibres obtained by a manufacturing process, as distinct from materials which occur naturally in fibrous form.
This document gives recommendations of rules for the creation of the generic name (see Annex A).
NOTE      These rules have been introduced in the sixth edition of ISO 2076, and thus, they are not applicable to the existing generic names of the previous editions.

This document specifies a method, using formic acid and zinc chloride, to determine the mass percentage of viscose or certain types of cupro or modal or lyocell, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—     viscose or certain types of the cupro or modal or lyocell fibres
with
—     flax fibres.
This document is not applicable to mixtures in which the flax fibre has suffered extensive chemical degradation, nor when the viscose, cupro, modal or lyocell fibre is rendered incompletely soluble by the presence of certain permanent finishes or reactive dyes that cannot be removed completely.

This document specifies a method, using acetone, to determine the mass percentage of acetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—          acetate
with
—           wool, animal hair, silk, protein, cotton (scoured, kiered, or bleached), flax (or linen), hemp, jute, abaca, alfa, coir, broom, ramie, sisal, cupro, viscose, modal, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, acrylic, elastolefin, elastomultiester, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent, polyacrylate and glass fibres.
It is not applicable to mixtures containing modacrylic fibres, certain chlorofibres, nor to mixtures containing acetate fibres that have been deacetylated on the surface.

This document specifies a method using hot formic acid to determine the mass percentage of melamine fibres after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of:
—          melamine fibres
with
—     cotton, polypropylene or aramid fibres.

This document specifies a method, using sulfuric acid, to determine the mass percentage of silk, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—          silk
with
—     wool or other animal hair.

This document specifies a method, using dimethylformamide, to determine the mass percentage of acrylic, modacrylic, chlorofibre or elastane, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—     acrylic, certain modacrylics, certain chlorofibres, certain elastane fibres
with
—     wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, elastomultiester, elastolefin, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent, polyacrylate or glass fibres.
It is not applicable to animal hair, wool and silk dyed with chromium based mordant dyes.
NOTE    Dyestuff identification is described in ISO 16373-1.

This document specifies a qualitative and quantitative procedure to determine the composition of animal hair fibre blends (made of wool, cashmere, yak, alpaca, camel or angora) by LC-MS without protein reduction.
NOTE 1    The composition of non-animal hair fibres can be measured by ISO 1833 (all parts). Both results are combined to determine the total fibre composition.
The method is based on a preliminary identification, by light microscopy, of all fibres in the blend on the basis of their morphology, according to ISO/TR 11827[4]. It is not applicable if fibres of the same animal species (such as blends of cashmere and mohair) are present.
NOTE 2    In this case, the quantitative analysis is performed using microscopical analysis [for example, ISO 17751 (all parts)].

This document specifies methods of quantitative analysis of various ternary mixtures of fibres.
The field of application of each method for analysing mixtures, specified in the parts of ISO 1833, indicates the fibres to which the method is applicable.
This document is applicable to mixtures of fibres with more than three components provided that the combination of test methods leads back to simple cases of fibre mixtures. Table B.1 illustrates the typical ternary mixtures and their applied corresponding parts of the ISO 1833 series.

This document specifies a common method for the quantitative chemical analysis of various mixtures of fibres. This method and the methods described in the other parts of ISO 1833 are applicable, in general, to fibres in any textile form. Where certain textile forms are excepted, these are listed in the scope of the appropriate part.

This document specifies a method, using sulfuric acid, to determine the mass percentage of polyamide, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of binary mixtures of
—     polyamide
with
—polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent.

This document specifies a method, using concentrated sulfuric acid, to determine the mass percentage of chlorofibres and certain other fibres, after removal of non-fibrous material, in textiles made of mixtures of
—     cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, acetate, triacetate, polyamide, polyester, elastomultiester, certain acrylic and certain modacrylic fibres
with
—     chlorofibres (based on homopolymers of vinyl chloride), polypropylene, elastolefin, melamine and polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent.
The modacrylics concerned are those which give a clear solution when immersed in concentrated sulfuric acid.
This method can be used, particularly in place of the methods described in ISO 1833-12 and ISO 1833-13, in all cases where a preliminary test shows that the chlorofibres do not dissolve completely either in dimethylformamide or in the azeotropic mixture of carbon disulfide and acetone.

This document specifies common methods for the quantitative microscopical analysis of various mixtures of fibres. The methods described are based on the use of a light microscope (LM) or a scanning electronic microscope (SEM), on the measurements of the fibre apparent diameter (preparation of longitudinal views) or on the measurements of fibre section area (preparation of cross views), depending on the section shape of the fibres.
NOTE 1  When the section shape is circular or almost circular, the longitudinal views are appropriate. For the other section shapes, the cross views are adequate and Annex A lists conventional density of fibres to be used for the calculation of the mass percentage of the components. Pictures of section shapes of fibres can be found in ISO/TR 11827.
NOTE 2  Annex B presents statistical data on fibre diameter measurements (longitudinal view) and on fibre area measurements (cross view).
The given procedures apply to fibres in any textile form when mixtures of fibres cannot be separated by manual methods or by chemical methods.
Examples of mixtures of fibres are cashmere and wool, cotton and flax, flax and hemp.

This document specifies methods for the identification of some bast fibres (flax, hemp, ramie) using both light microscopy (LM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). This document is also applicable to blends of these bast fibres and products made from them.

This document specifies a method, by determining the nitrogen content, to calculate the proportion of each component, after the removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—     jute
with
—     animal fibres.
The animal-fibre component can consist solely of hair or wool, or of any mixtures of the two.
This document is not applicable to products in which dyestuffs or finishes contain nitrogen.
NOTE    Because this method differs in principle from the general method based on selective solubility set out in ISO 1833-1, it is given in a form that is complete in itself.

This document specifies a method, using carbon disulfide/acetone, to determine the mass percentage of chlorofibre, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—          certain chlorofibres,
with
—     wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, polyamide, polyester, elastomultiester, acrylic, melamine, polypropylene, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent, polyacrylate and glass fibres.
It is also possible to analyse mixtures containing chlorofibres by using the test methods described in ISO 1833-17 or ISO 1833-21.

This document specifies a method, using benzyl alcohol, to determine the mass percentage of acetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—     acetate
with
—          triacetate, polypropylene, elastolefin, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent and polyacrylate fibres.

This document specifies a method, using glacial acetic acid, to determine the mass percentage of acetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
—     acetate
with
—     certain chlorofibres or after-chlorinated chlorofibres.
It is also possible to analyse mixtures containing acetate by using the test methods described in ISO 1833-3 or ISO 1833-9.

ISO 20418-1:2018 specifies a qualitative and quantitative testing method to determine the content of wool, cashmere, yak fibres and their blends in textiles by microscope preliminary screening, protein extraction, enzymatic digestion and specific peptides detection using a liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer equipped with electrospray ionization source (LCI-ESI-MC).
This method can be applied to relevant textile products at each process stage (i.e. from raw material to garment) with a homogeneous distribution of the components. It can be applied to different types of textile materials (e.g. staples, tops, yarns and fabrics) that contain wool, cashmere or yak fibres and their blends. The method is based on a preliminary identification of all fibres in the blend on the basis of their morphology, by light microscopy. The proteins are then extracted by a thiourea/urea/dithiothreitol (DTT) solution. An enzymatic digestion by trypsin of the protein extracted from the fibres is carried out. Analysis of the specific markers is performed by LC-MS and the percent composition is calculated.
This method is applicable to samples containing other kinds of fibres than wool, cashmere and yak, by combining its results with the results obtained using the ISO 1833 series and/or the ISO 17751 series.
ISO 20418-1:2018 does not apply if fibres of the same animal species are present (e.g. blends of cashmere and mohair); in this case, the quantitative analysis can be performed using microscopic analysis (e.g. ISO 17751 series).

Specifies methods of obtaining laboratory test samples of textile materials from laboratory bulk samples taken from a bulk source, and gives general directions for the preparation of test specimens of convenient size for chemical tests. Definitions in relating to bulk source, laboratory bulk sample, laboratory test sample and test specimen are given.

This document specifies a method, using acetone, to determine the mass percentage of acetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of
— acetate
with
— wool, animal hair, silk, regenerated protein, cotton (scoured, kiered, or bleached), flax (or linen), hemp, jute, abaca, alfa, coir, broom, ramie, cupro, viscose, modal, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, elastolefin, elastomultiester, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent, polyacrylate and glass fibres.
It is not applicable to mixtures containing modacrylic fibres, nor to mixtures containing acetate fibres that have been deacetylated on the surface.