SIST EN ISO 17700:2019

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018
01-november-2018
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Footwear - Test methods for upper components and insocks - Colour fastness to rubbing
and bleeding (ISO/DIS 17700:2018)
Schuhe - Prüfverfahren für Obermaterialien, Futter und Decksohlen - Farbechtheit bei
Abrieb (ISO/DIS 17700:2018)
Chaussures - Méthodes d'essai des composants de la tige et des premières de propreté
- Solidité des coloris au frottement et à l'exsudation (ISO/DIS 17700:2018)
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN ISO 17700
ICS:
61.060 Obuvala Footwear
oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018

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oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD
ISO/DIS 17700
ISO/TC 216 Secretariat: UNE
Voting begins on: Voting terminates on:
2018-08-13 2018-11-05
Footwear — Test methods for upper components and
insocks — Colour fastness to rubbing and bleeding
Chaussures — Méthodes d'essai des tiges, des doublures et des garnitures intérieures — Stabilité de la
couleur frottement et lessivage
ICS: 61.060
THIS DOCUMENT IS A DRAFT CIRCULATED
This document is circulated as received from the committee secretariat.
FOR COMMENT AND APPROVAL. IT IS
THEREFORE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND MAY
NOT BE REFERRED TO AS AN INTERNATIONAL
STANDARD UNTIL PUBLISHED AS SUCH.
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
ISO/CEN PARALLEL PROCESSING
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL,
TECHNOLOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND
USER PURPOSES, DRAFT INTERNATIONAL
STANDARDS MAY ON OCCASION HAVE TO
BE CONSIDERED IN THE LIGHT OF THEIR
POTENTIAL TO BECOME STANDARDS TO
WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
Reference number
NATIONAL REGULATIONS.
ISO/DIS 17700:2018(E)
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED
TO SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS,
NOTIFICATION OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT
RIGHTS OF WHICH THEY ARE AWARE AND TO
©
PROVIDE SUPPORTING DOCUMENTATION. ISO 2018

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oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018
ISO/DIS 17700:2018(E)

COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2018
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
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ii © ISO 2018 – All rights reserved

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oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018
ISO/DIS 17700:2018(E)

Contents Page
Foreword .iv
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Apparatus and material . 2
4.1 Method A – Veslic machine . 2
4.2 Method B – Circular rub machine . 3
4.3 Method C – Crockmeter . 4
4.4 Method D . 4
5 Sampling and conditioning . 5
5.1 Method A – Veslic . 5
5.2 Method B – Circular rub . 6
5.3 Method C – Crockmeter . 6
5.4 Method D . 6
6 Test method . 7
6.1 Principle . 7
6.1.1 Methods A and B . 7
6.1.2 Method C . 7
6.1.3 Method D . 7
6.2 Procedure . 7
6.2.1 Method A – Veslic . 7
6.2.2 Method B – Circular rubbing . 9
6.2.3 Method C – Crockmeter.10
6.2.4 Method D .11
7 Test report .12
7.1 Methods A and B .12
7.2 Method C .12
7.3 Method D .12
Annex A (informative) .13
Annex B (informative) .14
Bibliography .15
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oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018
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Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www .iso .org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www .iso .org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation on the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions related to conformity assessment,
as well as information about ISO's adherence to the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the
Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following URL: www .iso .org/iso/foreword .html.
ISO 18454 was prepared by the European Committee Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee ISO/
TC 216, Footwear, in collaboration with CEN/TC 309, Footwear, in accordance with the agreement on
technical cooperation between ISO and CEN (Vienna Agreement).
This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 17700:2004) which has been technically
revised.
Method A of this Standard is based on the IULTCS/IUF 450 method (ISO 11640:2012, Leather — Tests
for colour fastness — Colour fastness to cycles of to-and-fro rubbing), methods B and D are based on
the method EN 13516:2001 and EN 13516:2001/AC: 2003 and method C is based on the IULTCS/IUF 452
method (ISO 20433:2012, Leather — Tests for colour fastness — Colour fastness to crocking) and on
ISO 105-X12: 2016, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part X12: Colour fastness to rubbing.
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oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/DIS 17700:2018(E)
Footwear — Test methods for upper components and
insocks — Colour fastness to rubbing and bleeding
1 Scope
1.1 This standard specifies three test methods (method A, method B and method C) for assessing the
degree of transfer of a material’s surface colour during dry or wet rubbing. The methods are applicable
to all footwear upper, lining and insock irrespective of the material, in order to assess the suitability for
the end use.
1.2 This standard also specifies a method (method D) for determining the likelihood of colour
bleeding from materials and components. The method is applicable to all footwear upper, lining and
insock irrespective of the material as well as sewing threads and shoe laces due to the action of water
and artificial perspiration solutions, in order to assess the suitability for the end use.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 18454, Footwear — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing of footwear and components
for footwear
ISO 105-A01, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part A01: General principles of testing
ISO 105-A02, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part A02: Grey scale for assessing change in colour
ISO 105-A03, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part A03: Grey scale for assessing staining
ISO 105-E04, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration
ISO 105-F09, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part F09: Specification for cotton rubbing cloth
ISO 105-F10, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part F10: Specification for adjacent fabric: Multifibre
ISO 3696, Water for analytical laboratory use — Specification and test methods
ISO 2418, Leather — Chemical, physical and mechanical and fastness tests — Sampling location
ISO 2419, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Sample preparation and conditioning
ISO 9073-2, Textiles — Test methods for nonwovens — Part 2: Determination of thickness
ISO 4045, Leather — Chemical tests —  Determination of pH and difference figure
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— IEC Electropedia: available at http: //www .electropedia .org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at http: //www .iso .org/obp
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oSIST prEN ISO 17700:2018
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3.1
colour fastness
ability of a footwear material or component to maintain its colour after the action of various agents
3.2
thick leather
leather with a thickness greater than 2 mm
4 Apparatus and material
The following apparatus and material shall be used:
4.1 Method A – Veslic machine
4.1.1 Test machine with the following:
4.1.1.1 Flat horizontal metal platform of minimum dimensions 80 mm × 25 mm.
4.1.1.2 Means of moving the platform in a direction parallel to its 80 mm edges through distance of 35
mm to 40 mm and back again at a rate of 40 cycles/min ± 2 cycles/min.
4.1.1.3 Pair of clamps positioned at the ends of the platform at 90° to the 80 mm edges and which are
designed to clamp the test specimen against the platform. The clamp faces shall be a minimum distance
of 80 mm apart.
4.1.1.4 Means of moving the clamps apart so that the test specimen is extended linearly by an amount
adjustable up to 20 %.
4.1.1.5 Rubbing finger with a flat horizontal lower surface capable of holding a square felt pad (4.1.2).
The depth of the cavity that holds the square felt pad should be 3,9 mm ± 0,1 mm. For machines with
a platform wider than 25 mm the relative position of the rubbing finger shall be adjustable across the
width of the platform.
4.1.1.6 Means of holding a square felt pad (4.1.2) on the lower surface of the finger.
4.1.1.7 Means of applying a downward force of 4,9 N ± 0,1 N or 9,8 N ± 0,2 N to the rubbing finger.
4.1.1.8 Means of counting the number of cycles traversed by the platform.
4.1.2 Square pads of white or black pure wool felt, with the following requirements:
4.1.2.1 Sides of length 15 mm ± 1 mm.
2 2
4.1.2.2 Mass per unit area: 1 900 g/m ± 150 g/m .
4.1.2.3 Thickness 6,0 mm ± 0,5 mm when measured using a dial gauge exerting a downward pressure
of 49 kPa ± 5 kPa on a measuring foot diameter of 10 mm ± 1 mm.
4.1.2.4 pH of water extract between 4,5 and 8,0, according to ISO 4045.
The black felt shall be dyed with Acid Black 24 (C.l. 26370).
NOTE An example of suitable wool felts available commercially is given in Annex A.
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4.1.3 Grey scales for assessing change in colour and staining with half step ratings conforming to
ISO 105-A02 and ISO 105-A03.
4.1.4 Assessment cabinet with artificial lighting as specified in ISO 105-A01. Alternatively, the
assessment can be carried out in daylight from the north, when the test is carried out in the northern
hemisphere, or daylight from the south when testing in the southern hemisphere.
4.1.5 Distilled or de-mineralized water complying with grade 3 of ISO 3696.
4.1.6 Synthetic perspiration solution containing per litre of solution:
3
— Sodium chloride, 5,0 g per litre of solution, g/cm .
3 3
— Ammonia solution, density 0,880 g/cm , 6,0 cm .
Artificial perspiration solutions described in 4.4.9 or 4.4.10 may be used. In this case, specific mention
shall be included in the test report.
4.1.7 White spirit, general purpose reagent grade.
4.2 Method B – Circular rub machine
4.2.1 Test machine with the following:
4.2.1.1 Rigid horizontal platform (preferably metal) capable of clamping the test specimen.
4.2.1.2 Vertical rotating spindle capable of holding the circular felt pad.
1)
4.2.1.3 Means of rotating the felt pad at a speed of 15,6 rad/s ± 0,5 rad/s .
4.2.1.4 Means of loading the rotating felt pad with a force of either 24,5 N ± 0,5 N or 7,1 N ± 0,2 N.
4.2.1.5 Means of counting the number of revolutions of the felt pad.
4.2.2 Circular pads of scoured pure wool felt with central holes, with the following requirements:
a) Outside diameter 25 mm ± 1 mm, bore diameter 3 mm ± 0,5 mm.
b) Thickness, to be measured by one of the following methods:
Thickness Downward pressure/presser foot size Specimen
6,5 ± 0,5 49 kPa ± 5 kPa/10 mm ± 1 mm Cut pads or uncut sheet material
5,0 ± 0,5 2,0 kPa ± 0,2 kPa/19 mm ± 10 mm Cut pads
3 3
c) Density 190 kg/m ± 20 kg/m .
4.2.3 Grey scales for assessing the change in colour and degree of staining complying with ISO 105-
A02 and ISO 105-A03 respectively.
4.2.4 Metal plate approximately 75 mm × 65 mm and thickness 5 mm with a hole diameter 25 mm
through its centre for use in the wetting from the back with organic solvents test described in 6.2.2.6.
1) 1 rad ≈ 0,16 rev.
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4.2.5 Polished aluminium disc (diameter approximately 50 mm and thickness approximately 12 mm)
to help cool the test specimen in dry rub tests.
4.2.6 Balance, capable of weighing masses up to 5 g to an accuracy of 10 mg.
4.2.7 Assessment cabinet with artificial lighting as specified in ISO 105-A01. Alternatively, the
assessment can be carried out in daylight from the north, when the test is carried out in the northern
hemisphere, or daylight from the south when testing in the southern hemisphere.
4.2.8 Distilled or deionised water complying with grade 3 of ISO 3696 for the wet rub test described in
6.2.2.3.
4.2.9 Synthetic perspiration solution, for the perspiration rub test described in 6.2.2.4, consisting of:
3
— Sodium chloride, 5 g per litre of solution, g/cm .
3 3
— Ammonia solution, density 0,880 g/cm , 6,0 cm .
Artificial perspiration solutions described in 4.4.9 or 4.4.10 may be used. In this case, specific mention
shall be included in the test report.
4.2.10 White spirit (e.g. CAS n.64742-48-9) for the spirit rub test described in 6.2.2.5.
4.2.11 Organic solvents (as used for solvent activated stiffeners) for the wetting from the back with
organic solvents test described in 6.2.2.6.
4.3 Method C – Crockmeter
4.3.1 The device shall have a rubbing finger consisting of a cylinder of 16 mm ± 0,1 mm diameter
which is driven to carry out a linear reciprocating motion along a 100 mm ± 5 mm track on the specimen,
exerting a downward force of 9 N ± 0,2 N.
4.3.2 White cotton rubbing cloth, desized, bleached, without finish, complying with ISO 105-F09. The
cloth is cut into squares measuring approximately 50 mm × 50 mm, for the rubbing finger 4.3.1.
4.3.3 Grey scales for assessing the degree of staining complying with ISO 105-A03.
4.3.4 Assessment cabinet with artificial lighting as specified in ISO 105-A01. Alternatively, the
assessment can be carried out in daylight from the north, when the test is carried out in the northern
hemisphere, or daylight from the south when testing in the southern hemisphere.
4.4 Method D
4.4.1 Petri dish large enough to accommodate a glass plate (4.4.2) for each test specimen assembly.
4.4.2 Glass plate of length at least 110 mm and width at least 55 mm with a mass of 100 g ± 2 g for each
test specimen assembly.
4.4.3 Rectangular pieces of multifibre fabric type DW as specified in ISO 105-F10 of dimensions
100 mm ± 5 mm × 50 mm ± 2 mm.
4.4.4 Oven maintained at a temperature of 37 °C ± 2 °C.
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4.4.5 Grey scales for assessing change in colour and staining with half steps as described in ISO 105-
A02 and A03.
4.4.6 Assessment cabinet with artificial lighting as specified in ISO 105-A01. Alternatively, the
assessment can be carried out in daylight from the north, when the test is carried out in the northern
hemisphere, or daylight from the south when testing in the southern hemisphere.
4.4.7 Balance capable of measuring mass up to 100 g to the nearest 0,1 g for testing yarns or loose fibres.
4.4.8 Distilled or de-mineralized water complying with grade 3 of ISO 3696.
4.4.9 Alkaline perspiration solution containing, per litre of solution;
— l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate: 5,00 g.
— Sodium chloride: 5,00 g.
— Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate: 2,50 g.
After preparation, the solution is brought to pH 8 with 0,1 M sodium hydroxide solution.
NOTE Store the solution at 4 °C ± 1 °C. If the solution is more than one week old check its pH and adjust as
necessary before use. Discard the solution if precipitated solids develop.
4.4.10 Acid perspiration solution containing, per litre of solution;
— l-histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate: 5,00 g.
— Sodium chloride: 5,00 g.
— Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate: 2,50 g.
After preparation, the solution is brought to pH 5,5 with 0,1 M hydrochloric acid solution.
Store the solution at 4 °C ± 1 °C. If the solution is more than one week old, check its pH and adjust as
necessary before use. Discard the solution if precipitated solids develop.
5 Sampling and conditioning
5.1 Method A – Veslic
5.1.1 Rectangular test specimens of sufficient size to be clamped firmly on the test platform (4.1.1.1)
are required. The test specimens can be cut from the material in any direction. Typically test specimens
shall be of minimum dimensions 100 mm × 25 mm.
For test machines that have test platforms of width 25 mm, separate test specimens are required for
each number of rubs or test condition to be used.
For test machines that have wider test platforms and the ability to position the test finger (4.1.1.5) at
different positions across the width of the platform, wider test specimens can be used so that separate
rubbing tracks can be used side by side.
5.1.2 Place the test specimens in a conditioned atmosphere as specified in ISO 18454 for 24 h prior
to test.
NOTE Test specimens can be cut either from materials likely to be used in footwear or from made-up uppers
or finished footwear.
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5.2 Method B – Circular rub
5.2.1 Test specimens shall be of a sufficient size to allow them to be fixed firmly to the test platform.
Typically, test specimens shall be either squares of 60 mm × 60 mm, or circles 60 mm diameter;
alternatively, a 60 mm wide strip can be used for several tests.
For materials cut test specimens from a range of positions across the full usable width and length of the
sheet material. For a material with a woven structure this should prevent any two specimens containing
the same warp or weft threads.
For shoe uppers avoid seams, perforations and other areas where a flat test specimen cannot be cut.
5.2.2 Place the test specimens in a conditioned atmosphere as specified in ISO 18454 for 24 h prior
to test.
5.3 Method C – Crockmeter
5.3.1 Two representative test specimens, each measuring not less than 140 mm × 50 mm, are required.
One for dry rubbing and the other for wet rubbing.
5.3.2 Place the test specimens in a conditioned atmosphere as specified in ISO 18454 for 24 h prior
to test.
5.4 Method D
5.4.1 Test specimens can be taken either from materials likely to be used for uppers, lining and insock
or from made-up uppers, lining and insock, or finished products.
5.4.2 Sheet material or specimens from shoe uppers, lining and insock.
5.4.2.1 Cut one rectangular test specimen 110 mm ± 10 mm × 55 mm ± 5 mm for each method of the
test to be carried out. If insufficient material is available, cut several smaller test specimens which can be
fitted together to produce a rectangle of this size.
5.4.2.2 If the material to be tested is patterned, cut sufficient additional specimens to ensure that all
the colours of the pattern are in contact with all six sections of the multifibre fabric (see 4.4.3).
5.4.2.3 Make test specimen assemblies by placing pieces of multifibre fabric (see 4.4.3) in contact
with the surfaces of the specimens to be tested so that this surface of the specimen is in contact with all
six components of the multifibre fabric. If testing both surfaces of the test specimen, sandwich the test
specimen between two pieces of multifibre fabric.
5.4.3 Yarn, shoe laces or loose fibre:
5.4.3.1 For each method of test to be carried out, lay out sufficient yarn, shoe lace or fibre to completely
cover the surface of one piece of the multifibre fabric (see 4.4.3).
5.4.3.2 If more convenient the yarn, shoe lace or fibre may be cut into lengths, 100 mm ± 5 mm.
5.4.3.3 Place the yarn, shoe lace or fibre between two pieces of the multifibre fabric (see 4.4.3) so that
approximately equal amounts of the yarn, shoe lace or fibre are in contact with each of the six components
of the multifibre fabric. It is likely that the yarns, shoe laces or fibres will overlap one another to some
extent and this should be kept to a minimum. Avoid creating areas of several thicknesses of yarn, shoe
laces or fibre as this will lead to uneven pressure on the test specimen assembly during the test.
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5.4.4 Retain a portion of the material to use as a reference for visually comparing any colour change of
the test specimen.
6 Test method
6.1 Principle
6.1.1 Methods A and B
Regarding Method A – Veslic, a test specimen of the material is rubbed by a dry or wet wool felt pad
under a constant contact force in the to-and-fro direction.
In Method B – Circular rub, a test specimen of the material is rubbed by a dry or wet wool felt pad under
a constant contact force, rotational against the surface of the materials.
The test is stopped after a predetermined number of cycles or revolutions and the damage to, or transfer
of, colour is assessed subjectively using a geometric grey scale. Four versions of the test are described
for each method:
— Dry rub.
— Wet rub.
— Perspiration rub.
— White spirit rub.
In addition, for method B, a further test is described: Dry rub after wetting from the back with organic
solvent.
6.1.2 Method C
Specimens are rubbed with a dry or wet rubbing cloth attached to a cylindrical finger that is moved to
and fro under controlled conditions. Colour transferred to the white cloth is assessed subjectively using
a geometric grey scale for staining.
6.1.3 Method D
A test specimen, in contact with a standard multifibre fabric, is soaked with one of the following:
— D.1 - Distilled or deionised water.
— D.2 - Alkaline solution of artificial perspiration.
— D.3 - Acid solution of artificial perspiration.
The test specimen assembly is then sandwiched between two glass surfaces under a 4,5 kg weight
pressure and stored in a warm environment for a set time. The specimen and the multifibre fabric are
dried separately and the change in their colour is assessed using grey scales.
6.2 Procedure
6.2.1 Method A – Veslic
6.2.1.1 General
All tests shall be repeated at least once to confirm the results
...