Mountaineering equipment - Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing - Safety requirements and test methods

This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for energy absorbing systems for use in climbing on a klettersteig (via ferrata) for people weighing not less than 50 kg (total weight including the equipment).

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Fangstoßdämpfer für die Verwendung auf Klettersteigen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Fangstoßdämpfer fest, die auf Klettersteigen (via ferrata) verwendet werden, für Personen, die mindestens 50 kg wiegen (Gesamtgewicht einschließlich der Ausrüstung).

Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Absorbeur d'énergie utilisés en via ferrata - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai relatives aux absorbeurs d’énergie utilisables en escalade sur une via ferrata et pour des personnes ayant un poids total (incluant les équipements) d'au moins 50 kg.

Gorniška oprema - Sistemi za absorpcijo energije pri zahtevnem varovanem planinstvu (via ferrata) - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

Status
Not Published
Public Enquiry End Date
14-Jan-2013
Technical Committee
SPO - Sports
Current Stage
98 - Abandoned project (Adopted Project)
Start Date
03-Sep-2014
Due Date
08-Sep-2014
Completion Date
03-Sep-2014

Relations

Effective Date
08-Jun-2022
Effective Date
01-Dec-2012

Overview

FprEN 958 (prEN 958:2012) is a CEN European standard for mountaineering equipment that specifies safety requirements and test methods for energy absorbing systems (EAS) used in klettersteig / via ferrata climbing. It applies to systems intended for users weighing not less than 50 kg (total weight including equipment). The standard defines design, performance, marking and user‑information requirements and a sequence of laboratory tests to verify safety and durability.

Key topics and technical requirements

  • Scope and user limit: Intended for EAS used on klettersteig (via ferrata) routes for users ≥ 50 kg.
  • Design rules:
    • Textile load‑bearing connections must be non‑alterable by the user.
    • Connectors intended for via ferrata attachment must be type K in accordance with EN 12275.
    • EAS must not be disassemblable into components (except connectors).
    • Deployment position must be easily visible for user inspection.
  • Performance criteria:
    • Static force to initiate operation: > 1.2 kN.
    • Maximum impact (peak) force during dynamic test: ≤ 6 kN.
    • Maximum braking length: ≤ 1 750 mm.
    • Residual static strength after dynamic test: withstand 9 kN without failure.
  • Test methods:
    • Static initiation test (tensile machine, 100–150 mm/min).
    • Dynamic impact test using an 80 kg falling mass from 5 000 mm onto a rigid catch plate (force recording per ISO 6487 requirements).
    • Post‑impact static breaking test (force applied to exceed 9 kN).
    • Conditioning of textile components per EN ISO 139; instrumentation and recording requirements aligned with ISO 6487 (e.g., CFC 30, sensor resonance and accuracy limits).
  • Marking & user information:
    • Durable markings: manufacturer, model, year, “≥ 50 kg”, deployment position, reference to EN 958.
    • Supplied leaflet must include correct use, maintenance, after‑fall actions, lifespan guidance and chemical/temperature effects.

Applications and who uses it

  • Manufacturers and product designers of via ferrata EAS - for design validation and CE conformity.
  • Test laboratories and certification bodies - to perform the static and dynamic test sequence.
  • Purchasers, retailers and guides - to verify product marking, user limits and supplied instructions.
  • Regulators and safety managers - to reference in procurement, risk assessment and PPE compliance (linked to EU Directive 89/686/EEC in Annex ZA).

Related standards

Relevant standards in the mountaineering equipment package include:

  • EN 12275 (Connectors, type K)
  • EN 12277 (Harnesses)
  • EN 12492 (Helmets)
  • EN ISO 139 (Conditioning of textiles)
  • EN 892 (Dynamic ropes)
  • EN 15151‑1 / EN 15151‑2 (Braking devices)

Keywords: EN 958, FprEN 958, via ferrata, klettersteig, energy absorbing system, EAS, mountaineering equipment, test methods, safety requirements, CEN.

Frequently Asked Questions

oSIST prEN 958:2012 is a draft published by the Slovenian Institute for Standardization (SIST). Its full title is "Mountaineering equipment - Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing - Safety requirements and test methods". This standard covers: This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for energy absorbing systems for use in climbing on a klettersteig (via ferrata) for people weighing not less than 50 kg (total weight including the equipment).

This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for energy absorbing systems for use in climbing on a klettersteig (via ferrata) for people weighing not less than 50 kg (total weight including the equipment).

oSIST prEN 958:2012 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.

oSIST prEN 958:2012 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to SIST EN 958:2007+A1:2011, SIST EN 958:2007+A1:2011. Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.

oSIST prEN 958:2012 is associated with the following European legislation: EU Directives/Regulations: 89/686/EEC; Standardization Mandates: M/031. When a standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union, products manufactured in conformity with it benefit from a presumption of conformity with the essential requirements of the corresponding EU directive or regulation.

oSIST prEN 958:2012 is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.

Standards Content (Sample)


SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-december-2012
Gorniška oprema - Sistemi za absorpcijo energije pri zahtevnem varovanem
planinstvu (via ferrata) - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata)
climbing - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Fangstoßdämpfer für die Verwendung auf Klettersteigen -
Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Absorbeur d'énergie utilisés en via ferrata -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 958
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EUROPEAN STANDARD
DRAFT
prEN 958
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
September 2012
ICS 97.220.40 Will supersede EN 958:2006+A1:2010
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Energy absorbing systems for use
in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing - Safety requirements and
test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Absorbeur Bergsteigerausrüstung - Fangstoßdämpfer für die
d'énergie utilisés en via ferrata - Exigences de sécurité et Verwendung auf Klettersteigen - Sicherheitstechnische
méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136.

If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which
stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.

This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language
made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania,
Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United
Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are aware and to
provide supporting documentation.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without notice and
shall not be referred to as a European Standard.

EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels
© 2012 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 958:2012: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

prEN 958:2012 (E)
Contents Page
Foreword .3
Introduction .4
1 Scope .5
2 Normative references .5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements .5
4.1 Design .5
4.2 Operation of the energy absorbing system .6
4.3 Strength of the energy absorbing system .6
5 Test methods .6
5.1 Design .6
5.2 Test sequence .6
5.3 Conditioning and test conditions for energy absorbing systems with textile components.6
5.4 Apparatus .6
5.5 Procedure .7
6 Marking .9
7 Information supplied by the manufacturer .9
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 10
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 11

prEN 958:2012 (E)
Foreword
This document (prEN 958:2012) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
This document will supersede EN 958:2006+A1:2010.
Compared to the previous edition EN 958:2006+A1:2010 the following technical changes have been made:
a) in the scope, energy absorbing systems (EAS) according to this document have been limited to users
weighing not less than 50 kg (total weight including the equipment);
b) in 4.2, the maximum braking length was changed to 1 750 mm;
c) in Clauses 6 and 7, the requirement of 50 kg was added.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s).
For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
prEN 958:2012 (E)
Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard N (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation.
This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
prEN 958:2012 (E)
1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for energy absorbing systems for use
in climbing on a klettersteig (via ferrata) for people weighing not less than 50 kg (total weight including the
equipment).
2 Normative references
The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are
indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references,
the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 12275, Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139)
ISO 6487, Road vehicles — Measurement techniques in impact tests — Instrumentation
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
klettersteig
rock climbing route with artificially constructed, permanent belay
Note 1 to entry: In some cases, the term "via ferrata" is used instead of "klettersteig".
3.2
energy absorbing system
device with two or more attachment points, used to reduce the impact force on the anchorage and on an
attached climber during a fall
3.3
braking length
increase in the distance between the two attachment points measured at the end of the braking action
3.4
deployment position
arrangement or positioning of the energy absorbing device such that the energy absorbing systems can come
into correct use in the event of climber fall arrest
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Design
4.1.1 Load bearing connections
All textile load bearing connections shall be designed so that they cannot be altered by the user.
4.1.2 Connectors
If an energy absorbing system is fitted with connectors for attachment to a via ferrata, these connectors shall
be type K connectors according to EN 12275.
prEN 958:2012 (E)
4.1.3 Construction
The energy absorbing system shall be designed so that it cannot be disassembled into its component part,
except for the connectors.
4.1.4 Deployment position
The deployment position of the braking system shall be designed in such a way t
...

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