SIST-TP CEN/TR 15151-3:2026

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-julij-2026
Gorniška oprema - Naprave za zaviranje - 3. del: Naprave za zaviranje z ojačanim
zaviranjem
Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 3: Braking devices with amplified
braking
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bremsgeräte - Teil 3: Bremsgerät mit teilweiser
Verriegelungsunterstützung
Matériel d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Dispositifs de freinage - Partie 3 : Dispositif de
freinage avec assistance partielle au verrouillage
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: CEN/TR 15151-3:2026
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

CEN/TR 15151-3
TECHNICAL REPORT
RAPPORT TECHNIQUE
April 2026
TECHNISCHER REPORT
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 3:
Braking devices with amplified braking
Matériel d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Dispositifs de Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bremsgeräte - Teil 3:
freinage - Partie 3 : Dispositif de freinage avec Bremsgerät mit teilweiser Verriegelungsunterstützung
assistance partielle au verrouillage

This Technical Report was approved by CEN on 27 March 2026. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2026 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. CEN/TR 15151-3:2026 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
European foreword . 4
Introduction . 5
1 Scope . 6
2 Normative references . 6
3 Terms and definitions . 6
4 Classification. 7
5 Test Variables . 8
5.1 General. 8
5.2 Rope . 8
5.2.1 Diameter . 8
5.2.2 Linear Density . 8
5.2.3 Construction . 8
5.2.4 Coatings and treatments . 8
5.2.5 Condition . 8
5.3 Braking Device . 8
5.3.1 Braking device design . 8
5.3.2 Rope bearing carabiner . 8
5.4 User . 9
5.4.1 Brake rope angle . 9
5.4.2 Brake rope tension . 9
6 Static Performance Testing . 9
6.1 General. 9
6.2 Static Performance Test Procedure . 9
6.3 Brake Hand Force Study . 10
6.3.1 Introduction . 10
6.3.2 Brake Hand Force Results . 11
6.3.3 Brake Hand Force Discussion . 11
6.4 Rope Linear Density Study . 12
6.4.1 General. 12
6.4.2 Rope Linear Density Results . 13
6.4.3 Rope Linear Density Discussion . 13
6.5 Brake Rope Angle Study . 14
6.5.1 General. 14
6.5.2 Brake Hand Angle Results . 15
6.5.3 Brake Hand Angle Discussion . 15
6.6 Residual Holding Force Study . 16
6.6.1 General. 16
6.6.2 Residual Holding Force Results . 18
6.6.3 Residual Holding Force Discussion . 19
6.7 Static Performance Testing Conclusion . 20
7 Dynamic Testing . 20
7.1 General. 20
7.2 Dynamic Residual Performance . 20
7.2.1 General . 20
7.2.2 Dynamic Residual Performance Test Method . 20
7.2.3 Dynamic Residual Performance Test Results . 22
7.2.4 Dynamic Residual Performance Discussion . 23
7.3 Dynamic Response Study . 24
7.3.1 General . 24
7.3.2 Dynamic Response Test Method . 24
7.3.3 Dynamic Response Results . 26
7.3.4 Dynamic Response Discussion . 26
7.4 Dynamic Testing Conclusion . 26
8 Conclusion . 26
9 Observations . 27
9.1 General . 27
9.2 General Safety Improvements . 27
9.3 Markings . 28
9.4 Manufacturer’s instructions and information . 28
Annex A (informative) Information on the braking devices used . 30
Bibliography . 31

European foreword
This document (CEN/TR 15151-3:2026) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136
“Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by
DIN.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
Introduction
This document summarizes the collection of work that was performed with the intention of forming an
EN standard for manual braking devices with partially assisted braking used in mountaineering, climbing
and related activities. Many different tests and test methods were conducted with the aim of finding a
repeatable process that could be used to classify the performance of this type of device. However, since
no repeatable data could be gained, after several years of work, it was not possible to write a complete a
standard.
In order to save all of the valuable studies and findings, the CEN/TC 136/WG 5 decided to move from
draft standard to technical report.
1 Scope
This document applies to manual braking devices with partially assisted locking used in mountaineering,
climbing and related activities for belaying, to protect against falls from a height and/or for abseiling with
speed regulation. These are for use with mountaineering ropes according to EN 892:2012+A3:2023. In
case of abseiling and lowering down, this also applies to braking devices used with low stretch
kernmantel ropes in accordance with EN 1891.
It does not apply to manual braking devices and braking devices with assisted locking which are
addressed in EN 15151-1 and EN 15151-2, nor to fully automatic fixed installations.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 15151-1, Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted
locking, safety requirements and test methods
EN 15151-2, Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety
requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in EN 15151-1, EN 15151-2 and the
following apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
3.1
braking device
mechanical device, which generates forces on the rope to oppose movement of the rope through the
device
[SOURCE: EN 15151-1:2012, 3.1]
3.2
manual braking device with partially assisted locking
device controlled by hand force applied to the brake rope, in a specified range of positions, that produces
an amplified holding force in the live rope such that when the force in the brake the rope is reduced to
zero the amplified holding force is partially maintained
3.3
attachment point
system which is required and intended for the attachment of a connector according to the information
supplied by the manufacturer
3.4
brake rope
section of rope leading into the belay device, that is controlled by the user
3.5
live rope
section of rope leading from the braking device to the climber or anchor
3.6
brake rope angle
angle between the brake rope and the live rope about the belay device
3.7
holding force
force required to cause slippage of rope through the braking device
3.8
residual holding force
force required to cause slippage of rope through the braking device, after the device is locked and when
no force is applied in the brake rope
3.9
rope bearing carabiner
connector used with the braking device that the rope is in contact with
4 Classification
For classification of braking devices see Figure 1.

Key
A abseiling
B belaying
Figure 1 — Classification of braking devices
4.1 Manual braking device with partially assisted locking.
4.1.1 Type 9: devices for abseiling without a belay anchor function.
4.1.2 Type 10: devices for belaying and abseiling without a belay anchor function.
4.1.3 Type 11: devices for abseiling with a belay anchor function.
4.1.4 Type 12: devices for belaying and abseiling with a belay anchor function.
5 Test Variables
5.1 General
The following is a non-exhaustive list of variables that were considered when performing tests to evaluate
the performance of a braking device.
5.2 Rope
5.2.1 Diameter
The diameter of the rope (mm), where the method of measuring and expressing this diameter is specified
in EN 892:2012+A3:2023. EN 892:2012+A3:2023 permits the diameter stated in the information
supplied by the manufacturer and on the product markings to be within ± 0,2 mm of the measured value.
5.2.2 Linear Density
This is the mass per unit length (g/m) of the rope, where the method of measuring and expressing this is
specified in EN 892:2012+A3:2023.
5.2.3 Construction
EN 892:2012+A3:2023 and EN 1891 require the ropes to be of a kernmantle construction, where the rope
comprises a sheath and core. The proportions and composition of both can lead to a wide variety of
characteristics that can interact with each braking device design differently.
5.2.4 Coatings and treatments
A variety of coatings and treatments can be applied to the rope, or the fibres, to improve certain
properties of the rope (e.g. water repellence), however the interaction with the braking device can be
affected.
5.2.5 Condition
The condition of the rope could include a wide variety of factors such as: humidity, dirt, wear/damage,
and prior loading/elongation. Each of these factors can affect the performance of the braking device.
5.3 Braking Device
5.3.1 Braking device design
The design and mechanism for generating friction within a braking device can vary significantly. An
anonymised list of the braking devices used in this report, their permitted rope diameters (as specified
in the manufacturer’s instructions), and the classification (as defined in Clause 4), is shown in Annex A.
5.3.2 Rope bearing carabiner
For some braking devices the rope runs around an interconnecting carabiner, of which the geometry and
condition can alter the performance of the braking device.
5.4 User
5.4.1 Brake rope angle
The angle that the brake rope approaches the braking device can affect its performance. It is typical for
the user to reduce the angle of the brake rope to feed rope through the braking device more easily and
increase the brake rope angle to produce more holding force in the braking device.
5.4.2 Brake rope tension
The user can modulate the tension applied to the brake rope strand, which might affect both the response
and the performance of the device.
6 Static Performance Testing
6.1 General
A series of quasi-static tests were performed to better understand the impact of some variables (listed in
Clause 5) on the performance of the braking devices. These tests were designed to measure the force
required to cause slippage of rope through the braking device.
The test variance and repeatability were examined, with further Round-Robin testing performed. The
test procedure was improved until the results were proven to be repeatable and reproducible.
6.2 Static Performance Test Procedure
The test was carried out in an environment at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C.
The rope was conditioned according to EN 892:2012+A3:2023.
A new section of rope was used for each test.
The test apparatus was set up according to Figure 2.
An EN 567 rope clamp was connected to the outgoing live rope, then with a connector it was connected
to the load cell on the moving head of the tensile test machine.
The braking device was connected to the rope using the connector specified in the manufacturer’s
instructions and information. This assembly was then connected directly to the fixed anchor located
below the load cell.
The brake rope passed through a pulley with a sheave diameter of (50 ± 10) mm, which was attached to
a rigid anchor point in such a way that the pulley axle remains fixed during testing. The pulley was
positioned to provide the required brake rope angle when the braking device is in its highest friction
position.
A mass was suspended from the brake rope via another EN 567 rope clamp, where the combined mass of
the rope clamp, connector, and the mass corresponds to the required brake hand mass. This was placed
at a distance of (500 ± 150) mm from the pulley.
Excess slack rope was removed from the system, and the braking device aligned in its lowest friction
position.
With the tensile tester operating at a speed of 500 mm/min, the live rope was then pulled through the
device, and the force measured at the load cell was recorded.
From the recorded results, the region where force readings become steady, due to rope slippage, was
identified. The average force was then calculated over a minimum of 100 mm of rope slippage.
Key
1 moving head of tensile test machine 6 fixed axle pulley
2 load Cell 7 rope baring carabiner
3 rope clamp 8 fixed anchor
4 rope 9 brake hand mass
5 braking device
Figure 2 — Apparatus for static performance testing
6.3 Brake Hand Force Study
6.3.1 Introduction
A study of the effects of brake hand force was performed using the test method described in 6.2. A small
selection of braking devices were tested, using one model of rope (⌀ 9,8 mm), at a brake rope angle of
150°. A mass was used to generate a tension force in the brake rope and was increased in increments of
5 kg, up to 25 kg. It becomes difficult for a typical user’s hand to produce beyond 25 kgf on a single strand
of rope.
6.3.2 Brake Hand Force Results

Key
X brake rope mass (kg)
Y holding force (kgf)
braking device H
braking device F
braking device E
braking device B
braking device A
Figure 3 — Results of holding force measurements with increasing brake rope mass
6.3.3 Brake Hand Force Discussion
The results in Figure 3 show manual braking devices (braking device A) exhibit a linear and proportional
response to brake hand force. Manual braking devices with partially assisted locking display a different
response – depending upon the design and model – that is typically non-proportional, so, they still
provide a level of holding force even with no brake hand force, and the holding force is generally less
dependent on brake hand force.
Without any tension in the brake rope it becomes more difficult to maintain a consistent brake hand
angle.
For further testing it was agreed a brake hand mass of 4 kg would be used.
6.4 Rope Linear Density Study
6.4.1 General
As shown in 5.2 there are several factors related to the model of rope used that can affect the performance
of a braking device. Of the five main factors identified in 5.2 only the diameter and linear density are
easily measurable and comparable. The method for measuring and expressing both is defined in
EN 892:2012+A3:2023 and these figures are made publicly available by the manufacturer of the rope in
the product’s instructions.
The relationship between rope diameter and the performance of a braking device is fairly well
understood and it has previously been established in EN 15151-1:2012 and EN 15151-2:2012 that
testing on the braking devices is performed on the minimum and maximum diameter specified by the
manufacturer. However, the relationship between linear density of the rope and the performance of
braking devices is less well understood.
A study on the effects of linear density was performed using the test method described in 6.2. The brake
rope angle used was 150° and the brake hand mass was 4 kg. A selection of four braking devices were
tested, of which one was a manual braking device (braking device A). Seven different models of ropes of
the same stated diameter (9,8 mm) were tested in the braking devices. These had a range of linear
densities from 60 g/m to 68 g/m. It is worth noting the ropes were sourced from five different
manufacturers and are known to have different constructions and treatments applied to them.
6.4.2 Rope Linear Density Results

Key
X combination braking device and rope
Y holding Force (kgf)
A braking device A
B braking device H
C braking device F
D braking device E
rope 1 60 g/m (9,8 mm)
rope 2 60 g/m (9,8 mm)
rope 3 61 g/m (9,8 mm)
rope 4 62 g/m (9,8 mm)
rope 5 62 g/m (9,8 mm)
rope 6 67 g/m (9,8 mm)
rope 7 68 g/m (9,8 mm)
Figure 4 — Results of holding force measurements when increasing linear density of the rope
6.4.3 Rope Linear Density Discussion
The results in Figure 4 show that for manual braking devices (braking device A) no strong influence of
linear density upon holding force can be seen.
For the other braking devices (braking device H, F and E) there is a clear trend that increasing the linear
density of the rope will increase the holding force of the device. The greatest increase in holding force for
each braking device H, F and E is 42 %, 63 % and 66 % respectively.
It is understood that the manual braking devices with partially assisted locking typically use designs that
feature an aperture that contracts under load, through which the rope has to squeeze. This pinching
action is used to increase holding force. A more densely packed rope would logically be more resistant to
being crushed and pulled through the aperture in the braking device. Manual braking devices of a basic
tube design simply rely on belt friction to generate the holding force, as the rope is bent around bollards
and there is no pinching action. This form of friction is less sensitive to how densely packed the rope is.
In addition to the linear density, the effects of other characteristics of the rope, such as the construction,
treatments, coatings and condition have not been isolated in these tests, and it is possible that these might
also contribute in some way to the results.
These results suggest that using rope diameter as the only metric for informing which ropes are suitable
for meeting the performance requirements, when used in this type of braking devices, is not sufficient.
6.5 Brake Rope Angle Study
6.5.1 General
A study on the effects of brake rope angle was performed using the test method described in 6.2. A
selection of braking devices where tested, including one manual braking (braking device A) and two
braking devices with manually assisted locking (braking device J & K). One model of rope (⌀ 9,8 mm) and
a brake hand mass of 4 kg was used for all tests. The pulley was repositioned so that tests with a brake
rope angle of 150°, 120°, 90°, 60°, 30° and 10° can be performed on each device.
6.5.2 Brake Hand Angle Results

Key
X brake rope angle (°)
Y holding force (kgf)
braking device A
braking device B
braking device C
braking device E
braking device F
braking device G
braking device H
braking device I
braking device J
braking device K
Figure 5 — Results of holding force measurements when changing brake rope angle
6.5.3 Brake Hand Angle Discussion
Figure 5 shows a varied response to brake rope angle and will depend upon the design of the braking
device. Some braking devices displayed a fairly consistent performance across a range of brake rope
angles. Some braking devices saw a steady drop in performance as the brake rope angle became smaller,
similar to the manual braking devices. Several braking devices exhibit a sharp drop off in performance at
angles lower than 60°. The braking
...