Standard Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers

SCOPE
1.1 This standard is a compilation of terminology developed by Committee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.  
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included.  
1.1.2 Subcommittee D13.58 has jurisdictional responsibility for every item in this standard. The standards in which the terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of 13.58 subcommittee. Any changes approved by the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology for subsequent changes or additions to Terminology D123.  
1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the terms under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58. Other terminology standards under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58 are D3888, D4466, and D4848.  
1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
14-Jun-2021
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.58 - Yarns and Fibers

Relations

Effective Date
01-Feb-2020
Effective Date
01-Sep-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018

Overview

ASTM D4849-21 – Standard Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers is the authoritative compilation of terminology and definitions specifically developed for the textile industry. Issued by ASTM Committee D13.58, this standard encapsulates terms and clarifies their use within the domain of yarns and fibers. It is designed to standardize language and facilitate clear communication among textile professionals, manufacturers, laboratories, and regulatory bodies worldwide.

This terminology standard enhances consistency in the textile sector by providing precise definitions for specialized terms unique to yarns and fibers. Generic or widely-understood terms are excluded, making the standard highly relevant for professionals seeking clarity in advanced textile applications.

Key Topics

ASTM D4849-21 focuses on the following key areas:

  • Unique Textile Terminology: Definitions specific to fibers, yarn types, testing procedures, properties (e.g., linear density, twist, crimp, cohesion).
  • Sample Preparation and Testing: Terms regarding sampling techniques, tensile testing machines, and evaluation metrics such as coefficient of variation, evenness, and mass variation.
  • Yarn and Fiber Identification: Characterization methods for different yarns (filament, spun, core-spun, covered) and fibers (staple, monofilament, manufactured, synthetic).
  • Performance Characteristics: Description of attributes such as colorfastness, bulk shrinkage, friction, hairiness, and crimp.
  • Numbering Systems: Both direct (denier, tex) and indirect (cotton count, metric count) systems used within international textile measurement standards.

The definitions are reviewed and approved by Subcommittee D13.58, with changes requiring strict oversight, ensuring ongoing accuracy and relevance.

Applications

Adoption of ASTM D4849-21 yields clear economic and operational benefits across textile industry sectors:

  • Product Development: Enables textile engineers and manufacturers to accurately specify and assess yarn and fiber properties, leading to improved quality control in product development for apparel, home textiles, and industrial fabrics.
  • Testing & Laboratory Analysis: Standardizes terminology in laboratory testing, allowing for reproducible and comparable results whether measuring linear density, twist, or tensile properties.
  • Procurement & Compliance: Assists buyers and regulatory authorities in contract specifications, ensuring all parties use a common language based on an internationally recognized compilation.
  • Training & Education: Serves as a foundational reference for training programs and educational curricula in textile engineering and material sciences.
  • International Trade: Facilitates global commerce by reducing ambiguity in documentation and communication, supporting compliance with WTO Technical Barriers to Trade requirements.

Related Standards

ASTM D4849-21 references and complements several other important textile standards, ensuring comprehensive coverage:

  • ASTM D3888: Terminology for Yarn Spinning Systems
  • ASTM D4466: Terminology Related to Multicomponent Textile Fibers
  • ASTM D4848: Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Textiles
  • ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
  • ASTM D1059, D2260: Yarn and fiber numbering systems
  • ASTM D1422, D1423: Twist testing methods in yarns
  • ASTM D1577: Linear density test methods for textile fibers

For a complete set of referenced methods and definitions, users should review ASTM’s Annual Book of Standards or visit www.astm.org.

Conclusion: ASTM D4849-21 is an essential standard for technical professionals in the textile industry, supporting quality, clarity, and efficiency in the global market through standardized terminology related to yarns and fibers.

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Frequently Asked Questions

ASTM D4849-21 is a standard published by ASTM International. Its full title is "Standard Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers". This standard covers: SCOPE 1.1 This standard is a compilation of terminology developed by Committee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers. 1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included. 1.1.2 Subcommittee D13.58 has jurisdictional responsibility for every item in this standard. The standards in which the terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of 13.58 subcommittee. Any changes approved by the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology for subsequent changes or additions to Terminology D123. 1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the terms under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58. Other terminology standards under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58 are D3888, D4466, and D4848. 1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

SCOPE 1.1 This standard is a compilation of terminology developed by Committee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers. 1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included. 1.1.2 Subcommittee D13.58 has jurisdictional responsibility for every item in this standard. The standards in which the terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of 13.58 subcommittee. Any changes approved by the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology for subsequent changes or additions to Terminology D123. 1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the terms under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58. Other terminology standards under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58 are D3888, D4466, and D4848. 1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

ASTM D4849-21 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 59.080.20 - Yarns. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.

ASTM D4849-21 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to ASTM D2494-13(2020), ASTM D4848-98(2018), ASTM D3218-07(2018), ASTM D3333-07(2018), ASTM D3513-02(2018), ASTM D3106-07(2018), ASTM D2102-02(2018), ASTM D2402-07(2018), ASTM D5103-07(2018), ASTM D4466-02(2018), ASTM D861-07(2018), ASTM D3937-12(2018), ASTM D3823-07(2018), ASTM D4849-13(2018), ASTM D6587-12(2018). Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.

ASTM D4849-21 is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.

Standards Content (Sample)


This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D4849 − 21
Standard Terminology Related to
Yarns and Fibers
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4849; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
D1244 Practice for Designation of Yarn Construction
1.1 Thisstandardisacompilationofterminologydeveloped
D1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by the
by Committee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
Untwist-Retwist Method
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to
D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are
D1425 Test Method for Evenness of Textile Strands Using
generally understood or adequately defined in other readily
Capacitance Testing Equipment
available sources are not included.
D1577 Test Methods for Linear Density of Textile Fibers
1.1.2 SubcommitteeD13.58hasjurisdictionalresponsibility
D1578 Test Method for Breaking Strength of Yarn in Skein
for every item in this standard. The standards in which the
Form
terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the
D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Num-
definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without
ber) by the Skein Method
the approval of 13.58 subcommittee.Any changes approved by
D2102 Test Method for Shrinkage of Textile Fibers (Bundle
the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to
Test)
subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology for subsequent changes
D2255 Test Method for Grading SpunYarns forAppearance
or additions to Terminology D123.
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the
D2259 Test Method for Shrinkage of Yarns
terms under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58. Other
D2260 Tables of Conversion Factors and Equivalent Yarn
terminology standards under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee
Numbers Measured in Various Numbering Systems
D13.58 are D3888, D4466, and D4848.
D2402 Test Method for Water Retention of Textile Fibers
1.2 This international standard was developed in accor-
(Centrifuge Procedure)
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
D2612 Test Method for Fiber Cohesion in Sliver and Top
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
(Static Tests)
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
D2494 Test Method for Commercial Mass of a Shipment of
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
Yarn or Manufactured Staple Fiber or Tow
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
D2645 Tolerances for Yarns Spun on the Cotton or Worsted
Systems
2. Referenced Documents
D2644 Tolerances for Yarns Spun on the Woolen System
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D3106 Test Method for Permanent Deformation of Elasto-
D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
meric Yarns
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D3108 Test Method for Coefficient of Friction,Yarn to Solid
D861 PracticeforUseoftheTexSystemtoDesignateLinear
Material
Density of Fibers, Yarn Intermediates, and Yarns
D3128 Specification for 2-Methoxyethanol
D204 Test Methods for Sewing Threads
D3217 TestMethodsforBreakingTenacityofManufactured
D1059 Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-
Textile Fibers in Loop or Knot Configurations
Length Specimens
D3218 Specification for Polyolefin Monofilaments
D3333 Practice for Sampling Manufactured Staple Fibers,
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles Sliver, or Tow for Testing
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
D3334 Test Method for Fabrics Woven from Polyolefin
Current edition approved June 15, 2021 Published August 2021 Originally 3
Monofilaments (Withdrawn 1989)
approved in 1988. Last previous edition approved in 2020 as D4849–20. DOI:
D3412 Test Method for Coefficient of Friction, Yarn to Yarn
10.1520/D4849-21.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
the ASTM website. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4849 − 21
D3513 Test Method for Overlength Fiber Content of Manu- beam, n—in textiles, a large spool containing many ends of
factured Staple Fiber yarn wound parallel, and used for such purposes as weaving
D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of or warp knitting. D2258
Sewing Thread
beam set, n—in textiles, one or more beams of yarn in a single
D3822 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Single Textile
shipment to be further processed together for a specific end
Fibers
use. D2258
D3823 Practice for DeterminingTicket Numbers for Sewing
Threads
bench marks, n—marks placed on a specimen to define gage
D3888 Terminology for Yarn Spinning Systems
length, that is, the portion of the specimen that will be
D3937 Test Method for Crimp Frequency of Manufactured
evaluated in a specific test. D76
Staple Fibers
boundary friction, n—friction at low sliding speeds (0.02
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
m/min or less) where lubrication occurs under thin-film
D4031 Test Method for Bulk Properties of Textured Yarns
lubricant conditions. D3412
D4120 Test Method for Fiber Cohesion in Roving, Sliver,
and Top in Dynamic Tests
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
D4238 Test Method for Electrostatic Propensity of Textiles
more filaments. D3990
(Withdrawn 1996)
bulk sample, n—in the sampling of bulk material, one or more
D4466 Terminology Related to Multicomponent Textile Fi-
portions which (1) are taken from material that does not
bers
consist of separately identifiable units and (2) can be
D4724 Test Method for Entanglements in FilamentYarns by
identified after sampling as separate or composited units.
Needle Insertion
D2258
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
Related Properties of Textiles
bulk shrinkage, n—a measure of potential stretch and power
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
of stretch yarns or a measure of bulk of textured-set yarns.
D4911 Tolerances for Yarns Made of Man-Made Fibers and
D4031
Spun on the Parrallel Worsted or Modified Worsted
bunch, n—a defect in a yarn characterized by a segment not
System (Withdrawn 2000)
over 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) in length that shows an abrupt increase in
D5103 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of
diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular
Manufactured Staple Fibers (Single-Fiber Test)
place. (See slug, slub.) D2255
D5104 Test Method for Shrinkage of Textile Fibers (Single-
Fiber Test)
cable twist, n—theconstructionofcabledyarn,cord,orropein
D5332 Test Method for Fiber Length and Length Distribu-
whicheachsuccessivetwistisintheoppositedirectiontothe
tion of Cotton Fibers (Withdrawn 2006)
preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction. D1423
D5344 Test Method for Extension Force of Partially Ori-
calibrate, v—to determine and record the relationship between
ented Yarn
a set of standard units of measure and the output of an
D5647 Guide for Measuring Hairiness of Yarns by the
instrument or test procedure.
Photo-Electric Apparatus
DISCUSSION—This term is also commonly used to describe the
D6197 Test Method for Classifying and Counting Faults in
checkingofpreviouslymarkedinstruments,anoperationmoreproperly
Spun Yarns in Electronic Tests
described as a description of verification. D76
D6587 Test Method for Yarn Number Using Automatic
Tester
capacity, n—for tensile testing machines, the maximum force
D6612 Test Method for Yarn Number and Yarn Number
for which the machine is designed.
Variability Using Automated Tester
DISCUSSION—Capacity is the maximum force the tester-frame and the
D6774 Test Method for Crimp and Shrinkage Properties for drive system can exercise on the specimen without inadmissible
deformations of the tester-frame, etc. Within its capacity, there are
Textured Yarns Using a Dynamic Textured Yarn Tester
available load-cells with different full-scale ranges which may be
(Withdrawn 2019)
chosen to select an appropriate full-scale range for a special test. D76
3. Terminology
case, n—in textiles, a shipping unit, usually a carton, box, bale,
3.1 Alphabetical listings of terms with subcommittee 13.58
or other container holding a number of yarn packages.
jurisdiction and attribution for each term.
D2258
American grain count, n—adirectyarnnumberingsystemfor
clamp, n—that part of a testing machine used to grip the
expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120
specimen by means of suitable jaws. D76
yards of sliver or roving. D2260
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular, thick, uneven lumps. D2255
bad/good test (%BGT), n—an index value which shows the
total spread, or greatest variation, for the test; coefficient of friction, n—the ratio of the tangential force that
mathematically, the difference between the highest and is needed to maintain uniform relative motion between two
lowest mass readings determined in the test, expressed as a contacting surfaces to the perpendicular force holding them
percentage of the average mass. D6612 in contact. D3108, D3412
D4849 − 21
coefficient of variation unevenness, n—in textiles, the stan- the force is uniform with time after the first 3 s and the
dard deviation of the linear densities over which unevenness specimen is free to elongate, this elongation dependent on
is measured expressed as a percentage of the average linear the extension characteristics of the specimen at any applied
density for the total length within which unevenness is force. D76
measured. (See also unevenness and mean deviation
constant-rate-of-traverse tensile testing machine (CRT),
unevenness.) D1425
n—a testing machine in which the pulling clamp moves at a
uniformrateandtheforceisappliedthroughtheotherclamp
cohesive force, n—in a textile strand, the force required to
which moves appreciably to actuate a force-measuring
overcome fiber cohesion as the strand is being reduced in
mechanism, producing a rate of increase of force or exten-
linear density.
sion that is usually not constant and is dependent upon the
DISCUSSION—In dynamic tests, cohesive force is the force required to
maintain drafting in a roving, silver, or top. In static tests, cohesive extension characteristics of the specimen. D76
force is measured while a test specimen is held in a fixed position
container, n—a receptacle designed to hold a material, or to
between two slowly separating clamps. D2612, D4120
give integrity to the material.
colorfastness, n—the resistance of a material to change in any DISCUSSION—The term container in textiles may include bales,
cartons and other shipping containers. D3333
of its color characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to
adjacent materials, or both, as the result of exposure of the
coefficient of variation (CV), n—a measure of the dispersion
material to any real or simulated environment that might be
of observed values equal to the standard deviation for the
encountered during processing, storage, use or testing of the
values divided by the average of the values; may be
material. D204
expressed as a percentage of the average (% CV). D6612
commercial allowance, n—an arbitrary value equal to the
core-spun yarn, n—a compound structure in which a filament
commercial moisture regain plus a specified allowance for
or strand serves as an axis around which a cover of either
finish, used with the mass of scoured, oven-dried yarn, to
loose fiber or a yarn is wound.
compute (1) yarn linear density, (2) the commercial or legal
DISCUSSION—(1) General—in yarn testing, when the core and cover
in this type of compound structure need to be separated, for testing of
mass of a shipment or delivery of any specific textile
either component, the methods used should not compromise the
material (see also commercial moisture regain) or (3) the
physical properties of the component to be evaluated: and (2)
mass of a specific component in the analysis of fiber blends
Specific—as a sewing thread, the means by which this compound
D1907, D2494
structure is made will not allow the core and cover to be readily
separated without compromising the physical attributes of each com-
commercial mass, n—billed mass as determined by a gener-
ponent. Hence, the sewing thread should be evaluated as a compound
ally accepted method or as agreed upon between the pur-
structure. D204
chaser and supplier.
DISCUSSION—The basis for determining the commercial mass of a cotton count, n—an indirect yarn numbering system generally
shipment of yarn or manufactured fibers is generally one of the
used in the cotton system equal to the number of 840-yd
following: (1) CAS Basis (commercial allowance with scoured
lengths of yarn per pound. D1059, D2260, D6587, D6612
material)—the mass of oven-dry fiber or yarn after scouring by definite
prescribed methods plus the mass corresponding to its commercial cotton system, n—aspinningsystemadaptedtofiberslessthan
allowance, (2) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain with scoured
65 mm (2.5 in.) in length.
material)—the mass of oven-dry fiber or yarn after scouring by definite
DISCUSSION—Thissystemusuallyemploysflat-topcardsandmayuse
prescribed methods plus the mass corresponding to its commercial
roll and other drafting assemblies on intermediate processes and
moisture regain. (3) CMRU Basis (commercial regain with unscoured
spinning machines. D2645
material)—the mass of unscoured oven-dry fiber or yarn plus the mass
cover, n—in yarns, the outside layer of fibers that form the
corresponding to its commercial regain. (4) UN Basis (unadjusted
net)—the mass of the unscoured fiber or yarn with no adjustment for surface of a yarn. D2255
the amount of moisture or finish, or both. D2494
covered yarn, n—a compound structure which contains dis-
tinguishable inner and outer fibrous elements which can be
component, n—as used with textile fiber polymers, a polymer
different. D204
with distinguishable properties. D4466
CRE—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-extension. D76
cone, n—in textiles, (1) a yarn holder or bobbin of conical
shape used as a core for a yarn package of conical form, also
crimp, n—in a textile strand, the undulations, waviness, or
called a cone core. (2) the yarn package obtained when yarn
succession of bend, curls, or waves in the strand induced
is wound upon a cone core. D2258
either naturally, mechanically, or chemically.
DISCUSSION—Crimp has many characteristics, among which are its
constant-rate-of-extension type tensile testing machine
amplitude, frequency, index, and type. In Test Method D3937, crimp is
(CRE), n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
characterized by a change in the directional rotation of a line tangent to
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-
the fiber as the point of tangent progresses along the fiber.Two changes
measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with
in rotation constitutes one unit of crimp. D3937
increasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) D76
crimp, n—in a yarn, the undulations, waviness, or succession
constant-rate-of-load tensile testing machine (CRL), n—in ofbends,curls,orwavesintheyarninducedeithernaturally,
tensile testing, an apparatus in which the rate of increase of mechanically, thermall, or chemically. D6774
D4849 − 21
DISCUSSION—The preferred units of measurements for the direct yarn
crimp contraction, n—an indicator of crimp capacity or a
measuring system are grams and meters.Tex (weight in grams for 1000
characterization of a yarn’s ability to contract under tension.
metres) and Denier (weight in grams for 9000 metres) are recom-
D4031, D6774
mended to show linear density in the direct numbering system. These
can be calculated by dividing the mass of a yarn by its length.
crimp development medium, n—for testing of textured yarn,
Conversion factors to convert between direct and indirect numbering
an environment that allows the temporary set of fiber crimp
systems can be found in Standard Tables D2260. D1059, D1907,
to be overcome and that allows the filaments to assume their
D2260
permanently set configuration. D4031
direction of twist, n—the right or left direction of the helix
crimp frequency, n—in manufactured staple fibers, the num-
formedinatwistedstrandasindicatedbysuperimpositionof
ber of crimps or waves per unit length of extended or
the capital letter “S” or “Z.”
straightened fiber. D3937
DISCUSSION—Yarn has an S twist if when the yarn is held in a vertical
position, the visible spirals or helices around the central axis conform
crimp index, n—an indirect measure of the amplitude of the
in direction of slope to the central portion of the letter “S” and Z twist
crimp.
if the invisible spirals or helices conform in direction of slope to the
DISCUSSION—Crimp index is calculated as the difference in distance
central portion of the letter “Z”. When two or more yarns, either single
between two points on the fiber as it lies in an unstretched condition in
or plied are twisted together, the letters “S” and “Z” are used in a
one plane and the distance between the same two points when the fiber
similar manner to indicate the direction of the last twist inserted.
is straightened under a specified tension expressed as a percentage of
the unstretched distance. To improve reproducibility, the unstretched
distance may be measured under a specified, very low tension to align
the fiber in one plane. D3937
crimp recovery, n—a measure of the ability of a yarn to return
to its original crimped state after being subjected to tension.
D4031
CRL—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-loading. D76
CRT—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-traverse. D76
D1422, D1423
cut, n—in asbestos and glass yarns, the number of 100-yd
lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering
draw ratio (DR), n—the relation of the final length per unit
system. D1059, D2260
mass to original length per unit mass of a material resulting
from drawing. D3218, D5344
cut, n—in wool yarns, the number of 300-yd lengths of yarn
per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system. D1059,
draw texturing, n—for processing thermoplastic fibers, the
D2260
simultaneousorsequentialprocessofdrawingandimparting
crimp, thus producing increased molecular orientation and
denier, n—theunitoflineardensity,equaltothemassingrams
increased bulk.
of 9000 m of fiber, yarn, or other textile strand that is used
DISCUSSION—The drawing and texturing stages may occur in
in a direct yarn numbering system. (See also linear density)
separate, usually consecutive, zones of a machine (sequential draw
D1059, D2260, D6587, D6612
texturing) or together in the same zone (simultaneous draw texturing).
D5344
density frequency variability (DFV), n—an index of the
spacing of irregularities; mathematically, the number of
drawing, n—in textile processing, the process of stretching or
times the measured mass crosses over the mean mass line
attenuating a material to increase the length per unit mass.
from higher-to-lower values or lower-to-higher values di- DISCUSSION—This process orients the molecular chains in the length
vided by the distance over which the count is made. D6612 direction of a monofilament or partially oriented yarn. D3218,
D5344
density spread (%DS), n—a value which indicates the degree
effective carriage mass, n—in CRL-type tensile testing
to which the mass varies from its average; mathematically,
the average of the differences between the maximum and machine, the force actually applied to a specimen by the
mass of the carriage, plus any added masses. D76
minimumvalueswithinspecifiedsubsections,expressedasa
percent based on an overall average. D6612
effective fiber length, n—in vibroscope test for linear density,
that portion of the fiber free to vibrate between fixed
direct cabling technology, n—a single-step manufacturing
supports or holders. D1577
systems that produces a twist-balanced cabled yarn (2 fold)
from twistless single yarns.
effective gage length, n—in tensile testing, the estimated
DISCUSSION—Direct cabling of yarn is carried out in a one-step
length of the specimen subjected to a strain equal to that
twisting operation as compared to conventional cabling of yarn that is
observed for the true gage length.
carried out in multiple twist operations. D1423
DISCUSSION—The effective gage length can be calculated using the
following equation:
direct yarn numbering system, n—a system that expresses
the linear density of yarn in mass per unit length. G 5 G 3E /E (1)
E N N T
D4849 − 21
where: entanglement, n—the extent or degree to which the filaments
in a yarn are interlocked and cannot be readily separated.
G = effective gage length
E
DISCUSSION—There are two kinds of entanglements, intermediary
G = nominal gage length
N
(loose) node and hard (tight) node. Intermediary nodes are pulled out
E = percent elongation based on the nominal gage length,
N
easily under tension or separated by a needle. Test Method D4724
and
measures the presence of hard nodes in which the interlocking or
E = percent elongation based on the true gage length.
T
interlacing is compact pulling the yarn bundle together. D4724
D76
evaluator, n—a part of, or an attachment to, an unevenness
elastomeric yarn, n—a nontextured yarn which can be
testing instrument, which automatically gives an estimate of
stretched repeatedly at room temperature to at least twice its
R . D1425
u
original length and which after removal of the tensile force
will immediately and forcibly return to approximately its
evenness, CV%, n—in textiles, the coefficient of variation
original length.
derived from the ratio of the standard deviation of the
DISCUSSION—The elastic properties of yarn are produced by the use
variation in mass of a specified strand length (L ), over the
s
of filaments, or a core, made from polymers having a special chemical
total variation in mass in the length capacitance zone (L ).
c
composition or molecular structure, for example, filaments made from
DISCUSSION—For strands with normal mass variation distribution, the
spandex or from cut or extruded rubber. D3106
relationship between CV% and U% is multiplied by 1.25 (this
conversion is an approximation and should not be used as a substitute
electric constant, n—in textile capacitance testing, the change
for actual measurements). Although both CV% and U% are used as
in the electrical field as measured by the sensors (capacitors)
values of evenness, CV% is considered more accurate. CV% is
of an evenness instrument when a non-conductive textile
gradually replacing U% as the only calculated measurement of
strand travels between capacitor plates.
evenness. D1425
DISCUSSION—The dielectric change is measured as the ratio of the
amount of stored energy between the capacitors, without a strand, as
extension, n—the change in length of a material due to
compared to the movement of a strand through the sensor zone, and it
stretching. D5344
is in direct proportion to the variation recorded on the diagram chart.
extension force, n—the force required to stretch a material to
D1425
a given length. D5344
electrostatic decay half-life, n—in textiles,thetimeinminutes
fabric package, n—a length of fabric in a form suitable for
for the maximum voltage induced on the textile to be
reduced to one half of the maximum voltage by the various handling, storing, or shipping.
decay mechanisms: conduction and ionization of the air. DISCUSSION—Fabric packages may be unsupported, such as when
folded in cases, or supported, such as on tubes, bolts, or creels. Fabric
D4238
packages are frequently referred to as rolls or pieces. D2258
electrostatic propensity, n—the capacity of a nonconducting
fiber beard, n—as related to variegated length long staple
materialtoacquireandholdanelectricalchargebyinduction
yarns,thegraphicrepresentation,whichusesaslopetoshow
(by means of corona discharge) or by triboelectric means
the random length staple, from the longest length staple to
(rubbing with another material). D4238
the shortest length staple that are made from the tow of a
end, n—an individual silver, roving, yarn, or cord.
continuous filament yarn.
DISCUSSION—For yarns, one of the one or more continuous, multiple
DISCUSSION—The graphic representation in Fig. A shows how the
parallel lengths of yarn which may be wound on a yarn package or
fiber beard of variegated length long staple has random lengths that
beam. For example, two lengths of yarn wrapped parallel on a single
typically range from 100 mm to 300 mm. This can be compared to the
bobbinconstitutetwoyarnends,likewise,onethousandlengthsofyarn
short staple fiber beard (having fiber length of approximately 50 mm)
wrapped parallel on a single beam constitutes one thousand yarn ends.
shown in Fig. B. While the variegated length long staple (VLLS) fiber
is processed using modified worsted spinning technology, the short
D2258
D4849 − 21
staple fiber is processed using ring spinning technology, the same as
friction, n—the resistance to the relative motion of one body
used for cotton fiber. (See variegated length long staple (VLLS) yarn.)
sliding, rolling, or flowing over another body with which it
is in contact.
DISCUSSION—There are two frictional properties exhibited between
any pair of surfaces: static friction and kinetic friction. Test Methods
D3108 and D3412 both measure the coefficient of friction for kinetic
friction. D3108, D3412
fundamental resonant frequency, n—in linear density
testing, the lowest frequency at which free oscillations can
exist in a fiber tensioned between two fixed points. D1577
fuzz, n—untangled fiber ends that protrude from the surface of
a yarn or fabric.
DISCUSSION—Fuzz should not be confused with “cover”. D2255
fuzzy, adj—characterized by a hairy appearance due to broken
fibers or filaments. (Syn. hairiness) D5647
generic class, n—as used with textile fibers, a grouping having
Fig. A
similar chemical compositions or specific chemical
characteristics. D4466
gloss, n—the luminous fractional reflectance of a material in
the specular direction. (See specular gloss) D3334
grain, n—in yarn spinning, a direct yarn numbering system for
sliver, top or roving, equal to the mass in grains of 120 yds.
(See American grain count) D2260
grain, n—in measuring mass, 1/7000 lb avoirdupois D2260
greige thread, n—undyed or unfinished sewing thread in the
statefollowingfinalplyingorequivalentstepinaprocessing
sequence, such as extruding, texurizing or braiding. D204,
D3823
grex, n—an obsolete direct numbering system for fiber yarn or
Fig. B
other textile strand equal to the mass in grams per 10 000 m
D1059, D2260
fiber beard, n—in length testing of fibers, fibers caught
randomly on a comb which are subsequently straightened
grip, v—in tensile testing, to hold, grasp, or secure, for
and parallelized without stretching or damaging. D3513
example, to grip the specimen by the jaws of the clamps.
D76
fiber chip, n—in manufactured textiles, staple fibers that are
massed together as a unit and that maintain a single
growth, n—an increase in one or more dimensions of an object
geometry or alignment. D3937
or a material. D204
fiber cohesion, n—in textiles, the resistance to separation of
hairiness, n—or yarns, an overall condition characterized by
fibers in contact with one another. filaments or fibers protruding from the yarn surface and
DISCUSSION—This resistance is due to the combined effects of the
uniformly distributed along the yarn length. (Compare wild
surface characteristic, length, crimp, finish, and linear density of the
fibers.) D5647
fibers. Cohesion should not be confused with adhesion or sticking
hawser twist, n—the construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope
together as in a glutinous substance. D2612, D4120
in which the single and first-ply twist are in the same
filament yarn, n—a yarn composed of (continuous) filaments
direction and the second-ply twist is in the opposite
assembled with or without twist. D3822, D4724
direction, and S/S/Z or Z/Z/S construction. D1423
final twist, n—the number of turns per unit length in a single
heat shrinkage, n—a decrease in one or more dimensions of
yarn component of a plied yarn or the plied yarn component
an object or material exposed to heat. D3128
of a cabled yarn as the component lies in the more complex
heatset yarn , n—in a textured yarn, a yarn that is subjected to
structure. (syn. “as-is” twist) D1423
secondary heat during the texturing process, which is de-
frayed, adj—in textiles, a worn condition characterized by
signed to reduce the torque and bulk shrinkage.
damaged yarn surfaces, projecting yarn ends, hairiness, etc.
DISCUSSION—Thecharacteristicsofheatsetyarnsareafunctionofthe
D5647 temperature, time, and length of exposure to the heat source.
D4849 − 21
a stepped detent, the detent action may determine the least count (See
imperfections, n—in textile evenness testing, the individual
sensitivity, in mechanical systems) D76
number of thick places, thin places, and neps of a sample
strand length measured by a capacitive evenness tester at
length between, L , n—in textile evenness testing, the length
b
selected sensitivity settings for each imperfection category.
of strand segments weighed to determine evenness for the
D1425
direct method (cut & weigh) of measuring evenness. D1425
indirect yarn numbering system, n—a system that expresses
length between, L , n—in textile unevenness testing,thelength
b
the linear density of yarn in length per unit mass.
between which unevenness is measured, the equivalent of
DISCUSSION—The preferred units of measurements for the indirect
the length of strand segments weighed in a direct method of
yarn measuring system are yards and pounds. Cotton count (number of
measuring unevenness D1425
840 yard lengths per pound), worsted count (number of 560 yard
lengths per pound), metric count (number of 1000 metre lengths per
length capacitance zone, L , n—the width of the measurement
c
kilogram), woolen run (number of 1600 yard lengths per pound) and
field of the capacitance sensor.
number of yards per pound are commonly used in the indirect
DISCUSSION—Thecapacitivesensormeasurementfielddeterminesthe
numbering system. These can be calculated by dividing the number of
length between the indirect method of evenness testing. The L if the
c
specified lengths of a yarn by its unit of mass. Conversion factors to
length of strand being measured between the sensing elements at any
convert between indirect and direct numbering systems can be found in
moment. L is analogous to L of the direct method. D1425
c b
Standard Tables D2260 D1059, D1907, D2260
length distribution, n—of staple fibers, a graphic or tabular
integrator, n—in textile unevenness testing, a device that
presentation of the proportion or percentage (by number or
calculates the coefficient of variation unevenness or the
by mass) of fibers having different lengths. D5103, D5332
mean deviation unevenness.
DISCUSSION—The terms “integrator” and “integration" as applied to length within, L , n—in textile unevenness testing, the length
w
textile unev
...


This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D4849 − 20 D4849 − 21
Standard Terminology Related to
Yarns and Fibers
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4849; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This standard is a compilation of terminology developed by Committee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are generally
understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included.
1.1.2 Subcommittee D13.58 has jurisdictional responsibility for every item in this standard. The standards in which the terms and
definitions are used are listed by number after the definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of
13.58 subcommittee. Any changes approved by the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to subcommittee D13.92
on Terminology for subsequent changes or additions to Terminology D123.
1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the terms under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58. Other terminology
standards under the jurisdiction of Subcommittee D13.58 are D3888, D4466, and D4848.
1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D861 Practice for Use of the Tex System to Designate Linear Density of Fibers, Yarn Intermediates, and Yarns
D204 Test Methods for Sewing Threads
D1059 Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
D1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
D1244 Practice for Designation of Yarn Construction
D1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by the Untwist-Retwist Method
D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
D1425 Test Method for Evenness of Textile Strands Using Capacitance Testing Equipment
D1577 Test Methods for Linear Density of Textile Fibers
D1578 Test Method for Breaking Strength of Yarn in Skein Form
D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the Skein Method
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
Current edition approved May 15, 2020June 15, 2021 Published June 2020August 2021 Originally approved in 1988. Last previous edition approved in 20182020 as
D4849–13 (2018). D4849–20. DOI: 10.1520/D4849-20.10.1520/D4849-21.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4849 − 21
D2102 Test Method for Shrinkage of Textile Fibers (Bundle Test)
D2255 Test Method for Grading Spun Yarns for Appearance
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
D2259 Test Method for Shrinkage of Yarns
D2260 Tables of Conversion Factors and Equivalent Yarn Numbers Measured in Various Numbering Systems
D2402 Test Method for Water Retention of Textile Fibers (Centrifuge Procedure)
D2612 Test Method for Fiber Cohesion in Sliver and Top (Static Tests)
D2494 Test Method for Commercial Mass of a Shipment of Yarn or Manufactured Staple Fiber or Tow
D2645 Tolerances for Yarns Spun on the Cotton or Worsted Systems
D2644 Tolerances for Yarns Spun on the Woolen System
D3106 Test Method for Permanent Deformation of Elastomeric Yarns
D3108 Test Method for Coefficient of Friction, Yarn to Solid Material
D3128 Specification for 2-Methoxyethanol
D3217 Test Methods for Breaking Tenacity of Manufactured Textile Fibers in Loop or Knot Configurations
D3218 Specification for Polyolefin Monofilaments
D3333 Practice for Sampling Manufactured Staple Fibers, Sliver, or Tow for Testing
D3334 Test Method for Fabrics Woven from Polyolefin Monofilaments (Withdrawn 1989)
D3412 Test Method for Coefficient of Friction, Yarn to Yarn
D3513 Test Method for Overlength Fiber Content of Manufactured Staple Fiber
D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of Sewing Thread
D3822 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Single Textile Fibers
D3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads
D3888 Terminology for Yarn Spinning Systems
D3937 Test Method for Crimp Frequency of Manufactured Staple Fibers
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
D4031 Test Method for Bulk Properties of Textured Yarns
D4120 Test Method for Fiber Cohesion in Roving, Sliver, and Top in Dynamic Tests
D4238 Test Method for Electrostatic Propensity of Textiles (Withdrawn 1996)
D4466 Terminology Related to Multicomponent Textile Fibers
D4724 Test Method for Entanglements in Filament Yarns by Needle Insertion
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Textiles
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
D4911 Tolerances for Yarns Made of Man-Made Fibers and Spun on the Parrallel Worsted or Modified Worsted System
(Withdrawn 2000)
D5103 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of Manufactured Staple Fibers (Single-Fiber Test)
D5104 Test Method for Shrinkage of Textile Fibers (Single-Fiber Test)
D5332 Test Method for Fiber Length and Length Distribution of Cotton Fibers (Withdrawn 2006)
D5344 Test Method for Extension Force of Partially Oriented Yarn
D5647 Guide for Measuring Hairiness of Yarns by the Photo-Electric Apparatus
D6197 Test Method for Classifying and Counting Faults in Spun Yarns in Electronic Tests
D6587 Test Method for Yarn Number Using Automatic Tester
D6612 Test Method for Yarn Number and Yarn Number Variability Using Automated Tester
D6774 Test Method for Crimp and Shrinkage Properties for Textured Yarns Using a Dynamic Textured Yarn Tester (Withdrawn
2019)
3. Terminology
3.1 Alphabetical listings of terms with subcommittee 13.58 jurisdiction and attribution for each term.
American grain count, n—a direct yarn numbering system for expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120
yards of sliver or roving. D2260
bad/good test (%BGT), n—an index value which shows the total spread, or greatest variation, for the test; mathematically, the
difference between the highest and lowest mass readings determined in the test, expressed as a percentage of the average mass.
D6612
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
D4849 − 21
beam, n—in textiles, a large spool containing many ends of yarn wound parallel, and used for such purposes as weaving or warp
knitting. D2258
beam set, n—in textiles, one or more beams of yarn in a single shipment to be further processed together for a specific end use.
D2258
bench marks, n—marks placed on a specimen to define gage length, that is, the portion of the specimen that will be evaluated
in a specific test. D76
boundary friction, n—friction at low sliding speeds (0.02 m/min or less) where lubrication occurs under thin-film lubricant
conditions. D3412
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or more filaments. D3990
bulk sample, n—in the sampling of bulk material, one or more portions which (1) are taken from material that does not consist
of separately identifiable units and (2) can be identified after sampling as separate or composited units. D2258
bulk shrinkage, n—a measure of potential stretch and power of stretch yarns or a measure of bulk of textured-set yarns. D4031
bunch, n—a defect in a yarn characterized by a segment not over 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) in length that shows an abrupt increase in
diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular place. (See slug, slub.) D2255
cable twist, n—the construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to the
preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction. D1423
calibrate, v—to determine and record the relationship between a set of standard units of measure and the output of an instrument
or test procedure.
DISCUSSION—
This term is also commonly used to describe the checking of previously marked instruments, an operation more properly described as a description
of verification. D76
capacity, n—for tensile testing machines, the maximum force for which the machine is designed.
DISCUSSION—
Capacity is the maximum force the tester-frame and the drive system can exercise on the specimen without inadmissible deformations of the
tester-frame, etc. Within its capacity, there are available load-cells with different full-scale ranges which may be chosen to select an appropriate
full-scale range for a special test. D76
case, n—in textiles, a shipping unit, usually a carton, box, bale, or other container holding a number of yarn packages. D2258
clamp, n—that part of a testing machine used to grip the specimen by means of suitable jaws. D76
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular, thick, uneven lumps. D2255
coefficient of friction, n—the ratio of the tangential force that is needed to maintain uniform relative motion between two
contacting surfaces to the perpendicular force holding them in contact. D3108, D3412
coefficient of variation unevenness, n—in textiles, the standard deviation of the linear densities over which unevenness is
measured expressed as a percentage of the average linear density for the total length within which unevenness is measured. (See
also unevenness and mean deviation unevenness.) D1425
D4849 − 21
cohesive force, n—in a textile strand, the force required to overcome fiber cohesion as the strand is being reduced in linear
density.
DISCUSSION—
In dynamic tests, cohesive force is the force required to maintain drafting in a roving, silver, or top. In static tests, cohesive force is measured while
a test specimen is held in a fixed position between two slowly separating clamps. D2612, D4120
colorfastness, n—the resistance of a material to change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to adjacent
materials, or both, as the result of exposure of the material to any real or simulated environment that might be encountered during
processing, storage, use or testing of the material. D204
commercial allowance, n—an arbitrary value equal to the commercial moisture regain plus a specified allowance for finish, used
with the mass of scoured, oven-dried yarn, to compute (1) yarn linear density, (2) the commercial or legal mass of a shipment
or delivery of any specific textile material (see also commercial moisture regain) or (3) the mass of a specific component in
the analysis of fiber blends D1907, D2494
commercial mass, n—billed mass as determined by a generally accepted method or as agreed upon between the purchaser and
supplier.
DISCUSSION—
The basis for determining the commercial mass of a shipment of yarn or manufactured fibers is generally one of the following: (1) CAS Basis
(commercial allowance with scoured material)—the mass of oven-dry fiber or yarn after scouring by definite prescribed methods plus the mass
corresponding to its commercial allowance, (2) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain with scoured material)—the mass of oven-dry fiber or yarn
after scouring by definite prescribed methods plus the mass corresponding to its commercial moisture regain. (3) CMRU Basis (commercial regain with
unscoured material)—the mass of unscoured oven-dry fiber or yarn plus the mass corresponding to its commercial regain. (4) UN Basis (unadjusted
net)—the mass of the unscoured fiber or yarn with no adjustment for the amount of moisture or finish, or both. D2494
component, n—as used with textile fiber polymers, a polymer with distinguishable properties. D4466
cone, n—in textiles,(1) a yarn holder or bobbin of conical shape used as a core for a yarn package of conical form, also called
a cone core. (2) the yarn package obtained when yarn is wound upon a cone core. D2258
constant-rate-of-extension type tensile testing machine (CRE),n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the pulling clamp
moves at a uniform rate, and the force-measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with increasing force, less than 0.13
mm (0.005 in.) D76
constant-rate-of-load tensile testing machine (CRL),n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the rate of increase of the
force is uniform with time after the first 3 s and the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation dependent on the extension
characteristics of the specimen at any applied force. D76
constant-rate-of-traverse tensile testing machine (CR),(CRT),n—a testing machine in which the pulling clamp moves at a
uniform rate and the force is applied through the other clamp which moves appreciably to actuate a force-measuring mechanism,
producing a rate of increase of force or extension that is usually not constant and is dependent upon the extension characteristics
of the specimen. D76
container, n—a receptacle designed to hold a material, or to give integrity to the material.
DISCUSSION—
The term container in textiles may include bales, cartons and other shipping containers. D3333
coefficient of variation (CV), n—a measure of the dispersion of observed values equal to the standard deviation for the values
divided by the average of the values; may be expressed as a percentage of the average (%CV).(% CV). D6612
core-spun yarn, n—a compound structure in which a filament or strand serves as an axis around which a cover of either loose
fiber or a yarn is wound.
D4849 − 21
DISCUSSION—
(1) General—in yarn testing, when the core and cover in this type of compound structure need to be separated, for testing of either component, the
methods used should not compromise the physical properties of the component to be evaluated: and (2) Specific—as a sewing thread, the means by
which this compound structure is made will not allow the core and cover to be readily separated without compromising the physical attributes of each
component. Hence, the sewing thread should be evaluated as a compound structure. D204
cotton count, n—an indirect yarn numbering system generally used in the cotton system equal to the number of 840-yd lengths
of yarn per pound. D1059, D2260, D6587, D6612
cotton system, n—a spinning system adapted to fibers less than 65 mm (2.5 in.) in length.
DISCUSSION—
This system usually employs flat-top cards and may use roll and other drafting assemblies on intermediate processes and spinning machines. D2645
cover, n—in yarns, the outside layer of fibers that form the surface of a yarn. D2255
covered yarn, n—a compound structure which contains distinguishable inner and outer fibrous elements which can be different.
D204
CRE—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-extension. D76
crimp, n—in a textile strand, the undulations, waviness, or succession of bend, curls, or waves in the strand induced either
naturally, mechanically, or chemically.
DISCUSSION—
Crimp has many characteristics, among which are its amplitude, frequency, index, and type. In Test Method D3937, crimp is characterized by a change
in the directional rotation of a line tangent to the fiber as the point of tangent progresses along the fiber. Two changes in rotation constitutes one unit
of crimp. D3937
crimp, n—in a yarn, the undulations, waviness, or succession of bends, curls, or waves in the yarn induced either naturally,
mechanically, thermall, or chemically. D6774
crimp contraction, n—an indicator of crimp capacity or a characterization of a yarn’s ability to contract under tension. D4031,
D6774
crimp development medium, n—for testing of textured yarn, an environment that allows the temporary set of fiber crimp to
be overcome and that allows the filaments to assume their permanently set configuration. D4031
crimp frequency, n—in manufactured staple fibers, the number of crimps or waves per unit length of extended or straightened
fiber. D3937
crimp index, n—an indirect measure of the amplitude of the crimp.
DISCUSSION—
Crimp index is calculated as the difference in distance between two points on the fiber as it lies in an unstretched condition in one plane and the distance
between the same two points when the fiber is straightened under a specified tension expressed as a percentage of the unstretched distance. To improve
reproducibility, the unstretched distance may be measured under a specified, very low tension to align the fiber in one plane. D3937
crimp recovery, n—a measure of the ability of a yarn to return to its original crimped state after being subjected to tension.
D4031
CRL—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-loading. D76
CRT—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-traverse. D76
D4849 − 21
cut, n—in asbestos and glass yarns, the number of 100-yd lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system. D1059,
D2260
cut, n—in wool yarns, the number of 300-yd lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system. D1059, D2260
denier, n—the unit of linear density, equal to the mass in grams of 9000 m of fiber, yarn, or other textile strand that is used in
a direct yarn numbering system. (See also linear density) D1059, D2260, D6587, D6612
density frequency variability (DFV), n—an index of the spacing of irregularities; mathematically, the number of times the
measured mass crosses over the mean mass line from higher-to-lower values or lower-to-higher values divided by the distance
over which the count is made. D6612
density spread (%DS), n—a value which indicates the degree to which the mass varies from its average; mathematically, the
average of the differences between the maximum and minimum values within specified subsections, expressed as a percent based
on an overall average. D6612
direct cabling technology, n—a single-step manufacturing systems that produces a twist-balanced cabled yarn (2 fold) from
twistless single yarns.
DISCUSSION—
Direct cabling of yarn is carried out in a one-step twisting operation as compared to conventional cabling of yarn that is carried out in multiple twist
operations. D1423
direct yarn numbering system, n—a system that expresses the linear density of yarn in mass per unit length.
DISCUSSION—
The preferred units of measurements for the direct yarn measuring system are grams and meters. Tex (weight in grams for 1000 metres) and Denier
(weight in grams for 9000 metres) are recommended to show linear density in the direct numbering system. These can be calculated by dividing the
mass of a yarn by its length. Conversion factors to convert between direct and indirect numbering systems can be found in Standard Tables D2260.
D1059, D1907, D2260
direction of twist, n—the right or left direction of the helix formed in a twisted strand as indicated by superimposition of the
capital letter “S” or “Z.”
DISCUSSION—
Yarn has an S twist if when the yarn is held in a vertical position, the visible spirals or helices around the central axis conform in direction of slope
to the central portion of the letter “S” and Z twist if the invisible spirals or helices conform in direction of slope to the central portion of the letter
“Z”. When two or more yarns, either single or plied are twisted together, the letters “S” and “Z” are used in a similar manner to indicate the direction
of the last twist inserted. D1422, D1423
draw ratio (DR), n—the relation of the final length per unit mass to original length per unit mass of a material resulting from
drawing. D3218, D5344
draw texturing, n—for processing thermoplastic fibers, the simultaneous or sequential process of drawing and imparting crimp,
thus producing increased molecular orientation and increased bulk.
DISCUSSION—
The drawing and texturing stages may occur in separate, usually consecutive, zones of a machine (sequential draw texturing) or together in the same
zone (simultaneous draw texturing). D5344
D4849 − 21
drawing, n—in textile processing, the process of stretching or attenuating a material to increase the length per unit mass.
DISCUSSION—
This process orients the molecular chains in the length direction of a monofilament or partially oriented yarn. D3218, D5344
effective carriage mass, n—in CRL-type tensile testing machine, the force actually applied to a specimen by the mass of the
carriage, plus any added masses. D76
effective fiber length, n—in vibroscope test for linear density, that portion of the fiber free to vibrate between fixed supports
or holders. D1577
effective gage length, n—in tensile testing, the estimated length of the specimen subjected to a strain equal to that observed for
the true gage length.
DISCUSSION—
The effective gage length can be calculated using the following equation:
G 5 G 3E /E (1)
E N N T
where:
G = effective gage length
E
G = nominal gage length
N
E = percent elongation based on the nominal gage length, and
N
E = percent elongation based on the true gage length.
T
D76
elastomeric yarn, n—a nontextured yarn which can be stretched repeatedly at room temperature to at least twice its original
length and which after removal of the tensile force will immediately and forcibly return to approximately its original length.
DISCUSSION—
The elastic properties of yarn are produced by the use of filaments, or a core, made from polymers having a special chemical composition or molecular
structure, for example, filaments made from spandex or from cut or extruded rubber. D3106
electric constant, n—in textile capacitance testing, the change in the electrical field as measured by the sensors (capacitors) of
an evenness instrument when a non-conductive textile strand travels between capacitor plates.
DISCUSSION—
The dielectric change is measured as the ratio of the amount of stored energy between the capacitors, without a strand, as compared to the movement
of a strand through the sensor zone, and it is in direct proportion to the variation recorded on the diagram chart. D1425
electrostatic decay half-life, n—in textiles, the time in minutes for the maximum voltage induced on the textile to be reduced
to one half of the maximum voltage by the various decay mechanisms: conduction and ionization of the air. D4238
electrostatic propensity, n—the capacity of a nonconducting material to acquire and hold an electrical charge by induction (by
means of corona discharge) or by triboelectric means (rubbing with another material). D4238
end, n—an individual silver, roving, yarn, or cord.
DISCUSSION—
For yarns, one of the one or more continuous, multiple parallel lengths of yarn which may be wound on a yarn package or beam. For example, two
lengths of yarn wrapped parallel on a single bobbin constitute two yarn ends, likewise, one thousand lengths of yarn wrapped parallel on a single beam
constitutes one thousand yarn ends. D2258
entanglement, n—the extent or degree to which the filaments in a yarn are interlocked and cannot be readily separated.
DISCUSSION—
There are two kinds of entanglements, intermediary (loose) node and hard (tight) node. Intermediary nodes are pulled out easily under tension or
separated by a needle. Test Method D4724 measures the presence of hard nodes in which the interlocking or interlacing is compact pulling the yarn
bundle together. D4724
D4849 − 21
evaluator, n—a part of, or an attachment to, an unevenness testing instrument, which automatically gives an estimate of R .
u
D1425
evenness, CV%, n—in textiles, the coefficient of variation derived from the ratio of the standard deviation of the variation in
mass of a specified strand length (L ), over the total variation in mass in the length capacitance zone (L ).
s c
DISCUSSION—
For strands with normal mass variation distribution, the relationship between CV% and U% is multiplied by 1.25 (this conversion is an approximation
and should not be used as a substitute for actual measurements). Although both CV% and U% are used as values of evenness, CV% is considered more
accurate. CV% is gradually replacing U% as the only calculated measurement of evenness. D1425
extension, n—the change in length of a material due to stretching. D5344
extension force, n—the force required to stretch a material to a given length. D5344
fabric package, n—a length of fabric in a form suitable for handling, storing, or shipping.
DISCUSSION—
Fabric packages may be unsupported, such as when folded in cases, or supported, such as on tubes, bolts, or creels. Fabric packages are frequently
referred to as rolls or pieces. D2258
fiber beard, n—as related to variegated length long staple yarns, the graphic representation, which uses a slope to show the
random length staple, from the longest length staple to the shortest length staple that are made from the tow of a continuous
filament yarn.
DISCUSSION—
The graphic representation in Fig. A shows how the fiber beard of variegated length long staple has random lengths that typically range from 100 mm
to 300 mm. This can be compared to the short staple fiber beard (having fiber length of approximately 50 mm) shown in Fig. B. While the variegated
length long staple (VLLS) fiber is processed using modified worsted spinning technology, the short staple fiber is processed using ring spinning
technology, the same as used for cotton fiber. (See variegated length long staple (VLLS) yarn.)
D4849 − 21
Fig. A
Fig. B
fiber beard, n—in length testing of fibers, fibers caught randomly on a comb which are subsequently straightened and
parallelized without stretching or damaging. D3513
fiber chip, n—in manufactured textiles, staple fibers that are massed together as a unit and that maintain a single geometry or
alignment. D3937
fiber cohesion, n—in textiles, the resistance to separation of fibers in contact with one another.
DISCUSSION—
This resistance is due to the combined effects of the surface characteristic, length, crimp, finish, and linear density of the fibers. Cohesion should not
be confused with adhesion or sticking together as in a glutinous substance. D2612, D4120
filament yarn, n—a yarn composed of (continuous) filaments assembled with or without twist. D3822, D4724
final twist, n—the number of turns per unit length in a single yarn component of a plied yarn or the plied yarn component of
a cabled yarn as the component lies in the more complex structure. (syn. “as-is” twist) D1423
frayed, adj—in textiles, a worn condition characterized by damaged yarn surfaces, projecting yarn ends, hairiness, etc. D5647
friction, n—the resistance to the relative motion of one body sliding, rolling, or flowing over another body with which it is in
contact.
D4849 − 21
DISCUSSION—
There are two frictional properties exhibited between any pair of surfaces: static friction and kinetic friction. Test Methods D3108 and D3412 both
measure the coefficient of friction for kinetic friction. D3108, D3412
fundamental resonant frequency, n—in linear density testing, the lowest frequency at which free oscillations can exist in a
fiber tensioned between two fixed points. D1577
fuzz, n—untangled fiber ends that protrude from the surface of a yarn or fabric.
DISCUSSION—
Fuzz should not be confused with “cover”. D2255
fuzzy, adj—characterized by a hairy appearance due to broken fibers or filaments. (Syn. hairiness) D5647
generic class, n—as used with textile fibers, a grouping having similar chemical compositions or specific chemical
characteristics. D4466
gloss, n—the luminous fractional reflectance of a material in the specular direction. (See specular gloss) D3334
grain, n—in yarn spinning, a direct yarn numbering system for sliver, top or roving, equal to the mass in grains of 120 yds. (See
American grain count) D2260
grain, n—in measuring mass, 1/7000 lb avoirdupois D2260
greige thread, n—undyed or unfinished sewing thread in the state following final plying or equivalent step in a processing
sequence, such as extruding, texurizing or braiding. D204, D3823
grex, n—an obsolete direct numbering system for fiber yarn or other textile strand equal to the mass in grams per 10 000 m
D1059, D2260
grip, v—in tensile testing, to hold, grasp, or secure, for example, to grip the specimen by the jaws of the clamps. D76
growth, n—an increase in one or more dimensions of an object or a material. D204
hairiness, n—or yarns, an overall condition characterized by filaments or fibers protruding from the yarn surface and uniformly
distributed along the yarn length. (Compare wild fibers.) D5647
hawser twist, n—the construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in which the single and first-ply twist are in the same direction
and the second-ply twist is in the opposite direction, and S/S/Z or Z/Z/S construction. D1423
heat shrinkage, n—a decrease in one or more dimensions of an object or material exposed to heat. D3128
heatset yarn , n—in a textured yarn, a yarn that is subjected to secondary heat during the texturing process, which is designed
to reduce the torque and bulk shrinkage.
DISCUSSION—
The characteristics of heatset yarns are a function of the temperature, time, and length of exposure to the heat source.
imperfections, n—in textile evenness testing, the individual number of thick places, thin places, and neps of a sample strand
length measured by a capacitive evenness tester at selected sensitivity settings for each imperfection category. D1425
indirect yarn numbering system, n—a system that expresses the linear density of yarn in length per unit mass.
D4849 − 21
DISCUSSION—
The preferred units of measurements for the indirect yarn measuring system are yards and pounds. Cotton count (number of 840 yard lengths per
pound), worsted count (number of 560 yard lengths per pound), metric count (number of 1000 metre lengths per kilogram), woolen run (number of
1600 yard lengths per pound) and number of yards per pound are commonly used in the indirect numbering system. These can be calculated by dividing
the number of specified lengths of a yarn by its unit of mass. Conversion factors to convert between indirect and direct numbering systems can be found
in Standard Tables D2260 D1059, D1907, D2260
integrator, n—in textile unevenness testing, a device that calculates the coefficient of variation unevenness or the mean deviation
unevenness.
DISCUSSION—
The terms “integrator” and “integration" as applied to textile unevenness testing do not imply integration in the strict mathematical sense. The type
integrator, linear or quadratic, must be carefully selected depending upon a known irregularity of the material; that is, purely random or purely periodic.
D1425
jaw face, n—in tensile testing machines, the surface of a jaw which in the absence of a liner contacts the specimen. D76
jaw liner, n—in tensile testing machines, any material placed between the jaw face and the specimen to improve the holding
power of the jaws. D76
jaws, n—in tensile testing machines, the elements of a clamp which grip the specimen. D76
kinetic friction, n—friction developed between two bodies in motion. (Compare static friction.) D3108
laboratory sample, n—a portion of material taken to represent the lot sample, or the original material, and used in the laboratory
as a source of test specimens. D2258
lateral, adj—a descriptive term for a textile fiber composed of two or more polymers at least two of which have a continuous
longitudinal external surface. D4849
lea, n—in cotton yarns, the number of 120-yd length
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