ASTM D1059-17(2022)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D1059 − 17 (Reapproved 2022)
Standard Test Method for
Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1059; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the yarn
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made
D541 Specification for Single Jute Yarn (Withdrawn 1996)
fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in
D578 Specification for Glass Fiber Strands
which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable
D629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from
D681 Specification for Jute Rove and Plied Yarn for Elec-
napped or cut pile fabrics. Because this test method is based on
trical and Packing Purposes (Withdrawn 2000)
short-length specimens, the results should only be considered
D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
as approximations of yarn number.
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
NOTE 1—For a more precise procedure for the determination of yarn
number, refer to Test Method D1907. D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Num-
NOTE 2—The following additional methods for the determination of ber) by the Skein Method
yarn number have been approved for yarns made from specific fibers:
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Specification D541, D578, and D681.
3. Terminology
1.2 Thistestmethodisapplicabletoyarnswhichstretchless
than 5 % when tension on yarn is increased from 0.25 to 0.75
3.1 Definitions—The following terms are relevant to this
cN/tex (0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex). By mutual agreement it may be
standard: cotton count, cut, indirect yarn numbering system,
adapted to yarns which stretch more than 5 % by use of tension
lea, metric count, run, tex, type, worsted count, yarn number,
lower than that specified in the method for elastomers or use of
yarn numbering system.
tension higher than that specified in the method to pull the
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test
crimp out of textured yarns.
method, refer to Terminology D123.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are
4. Summary of Test Method
provided for information only and are not considered standard.
4.1 Specimens of prescribed length, usually 1 m (1.1 yd) or
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the less, are cut from a conditioned sample, which is under
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the prescribed tension, and weighed. The yarn number is calcu-
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- lated from the mass and the measured length of the yarn.
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 5. Significance and Use
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
5.1 This is a quick method used for the determination of the
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
approximate yarn number of short-length specimens taken
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
from packages or fabrics.
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
5.2 Because any error present in the reported length of the
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
specimen is multiplied many times when calculating the
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
theoretical yarn number using Eq 2 or Eq 3, it is extremely
important that the length be measured as precisely as practi-
cable.
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2022. Published December 2022. Originally
approved in 1952. Last previous edition approved in 2017 as D1059 – 17. DOI: The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
10.1520/D1059-17R22. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D1059 − 17 (2022)
5.3 For the analysis of fabrics, this test method is adequate 6.7.2 Sharp Pointed Scissors.
forestimatingtheapproximateyarnnumberoftheyarnusedto 6.7.3 Tweezers.
weave or knit the fabric, but the results obtained by this test
6.8 Masking Tape.
method may not agree with the nominal yarn number of the
6.9 Test (or Specimen) Board—of a stiff material, such as
yarns actually used to make the fabric because of the changes
cardboard, covered with a short pile fabric (for example,
in the yarn number produced by the weaving or knitting
velvet, velveteen, or a plush or napped surface).
operations, the finishing treatments, and the dissecting opera-
tions.This test method is suitable for the evaluation of yarns as
7. Sampling
they occur in the finished fabric, when that information is
7.1 LotSample—Asalotsampleforacceptancetesting,take
needed.
at random the number of shipping containers directed in an
5.4 The yarn number obtained from the lengths taken from
applicable material specification or other agreement between
packages should not be expected to agree exactly with the
the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use
values obtained by the use of the more precise methods of
Practice D2258.
determining the yarn number included in Test Method D1907.
7.2 Laboratory Sample—As laboratory sample for accep-
If a sufficient number of consecutive specimens were tested,
tance testing, proceed as follows:
however, a close agreement with Option 1 of Test Method
7.2.1 For packages such as cones, spools, or bobbins, take a
D1907 can be expected.
total number of packages as directed in Section 7 of Test
5.5 This test method is designed to measure the yarn
Method D1907.
number of the single yarns present as a component of a plied
7.2.2 For beams, remove 1.5 m (1.5 yd) of yarn from all
yarn and the yarn number of the original single yarns used to
ends across the beam. Handle carefully to avoid tangling.
produce a high twist yarn for a crepe fabric.
securetheendsofthesampleyarnsbysandwichingthematthe
ends with strips of masking tape.
5.6 This test method is not recommended for acceptance
7.2.3 For fabrics, take a swatch of full-width fabric at last
testing because of the short lengths used. In some cases, the
1.5 m (1.5. yd).
purchaser and the supplier may have to test a commercial
shipmentofoneormorespecificmaterialsbythebestavailable
7.3 Test Specimens—From each unit of the laboratory
method, even though the method has not been recommended
sample, take specimens at the time of testing as follows:
for acceptance testing of commercial shipments.
7.3.1 For packages such as cones, spools, or bobbins, take
5.6.1 In such a case, if there is disagreement arising from
one specimen per package.
the differences in values reported by the purchaser and supplier
7.3.2 For beams, take ten ends at random from each half of
when using this method for acceptance testing, the statistical
the beam sheet.
bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and the
7.3.3 For woven fabrics, take ten separate specimens from
laboratory of the supplier should be determined with each
the warp and ten separate specimens from the filling. Take the
comparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawn
filling specimens at random. Discard specimens that appear to
from one sample of material of the type being evaluated.
be damaged.
7.3.4 For weft knit fabrics, take ten specimens at random
6. Apparatus
unless the fabric is known to be a multifeed fabric or double
knit fabric. For multifeed fabric, take ten specimens from ten
6.1 Twist Tester, equipped with a tension device and means
successive courses in one part of the laboratory sample. For
of measuring the change in length of the specimen due to
double knit fabric, take five specimens from each knitting type
untwisting, as specified in Test Method D1423.
of yarn (short and long feed length courses).
6.2 Length Measuring Device, Atape or scale measuring at
7.3.5 For warp knit fabrics, cut a walewise strip from which
least 1.00 m (1.1 yd) in length, graduated in millimetres, and
specimens can be raveled. Cut the strip at least 0.2 m (8 in.)
with two clamps, one adjustable, to permit measuring various
longer than the specimen length and wide enough to contain
lengths of yarn up to and including 1 m (1.1 yd). The scale
more than the required number of specimens. Test five speci-
shouldbeaccurateto1partin1000.Meansshouldbeprovided
mens from each bar.
for applying a specified tension to the specimen and for cutting
NOTE 3—When testing for other than acceptance testing, the specimens
it without damaging the scale.
may have to be taken in a different manner than directed above. A
minimum of ten specimens in each test result is recommended.
6.3 Razor-Edge Craft Knife, or Sharp Pointed Scissor or
Equivalent.
8. Conditioning
6.4 Tensioning Weights, accurate to 1 part in 100.
8.1 Bring the laboratory samples or specimens to moisture
equilibrium for testing in the standard atmosphere for testing
6.5 Balance, capable of weighing to within 0.1 % of the
textiles as directed in Practice D1776, except that precondi-
specimen mass.
tioning is not necessary.
6.6 Dissecting Needle, Scribe, or Stylus, (hereafter needle).
9. Preparation of Apparatus
6.7 Auxiliary Equipment for Raveling Tricot Fabric:
6.7.1 Metal Clamps, four to six (1 g to 5 g depending on the 9.1 Yarn from Packages—Normally, specimens having a
mass per unit area of the tricot fabric). length of 1 m (1.1 yd) can be obtained from pirns, cones,
D1059 − 17 (2022)
spools, bobbins, and beams. Remove the outer layers from the and heat from handling by some people may cause loss of the
packages and proceed as described in 10.2. knit-crimp memory without yarn damage.) This phase can be
done with fabric still clamped to board. Or, it can be done with
9.2 Yarn from Woven Fabrics—Cut the laboratory samples
fabric held on each side of the raveling area with heel of thumb
parallel to the warp (or filling) yarns to be tested. Ravel and
and three fingers, leaving thumbs and forefingers to pull on
discard the warp (or filling) yarns until full length yarns can be
yarns and work needle as needed. Lighted low power magni-
removed from the fabric. Trim the fringe.
fication may be helpful. Very tightly knit fabrics will ravel
NOTE4—Iffabricistightlywoven,itmaybenecessarytocutthefringe
more slowly and may require continued use of microscope.
frequently to allow the yarns to be raveled from the fabric without
stretching. 9.4.4 Itisamorecommonpracticetoravelsufficientyarnto
obtain a standard length from the yarns guided by the bar
9.3 Yarns from Weft Knits—Cut the fabric along a course
which “floats” over at least one needle during knitting (some-
line. Clean the raveling edge to obtain a free pulling yarn at
times called “long bar” and usually, but not always, the top
least 0.2 m (8 in.) longer than the specimen length required.
bar). Shorter, appropriate lengths will necessarily be taken
9.4 Yarn from Warp Knits—Ravel yarn from warp knit
from the other bar(s).
fabrics as directed below.
9.5 Singles from Plied Yarn—When required, determine the
9.4.1 Clamponesideofthefabric,faceup,toanedgeofthe
length of singles in the ply as directed below.
pile board. Stretch the fabric across the board to put a slight
9.5.1 Adjust the twist tester to 250 6 0.25 mm (9.85 6 0.01
tension on the loops and clamp it to the opposite edge of the
in.) between clamps. Record this as the twisted length, T. Take
board. Clamps should be near the raveling end of the fabric
a length of about 50 mm (2 in.) and fasten the end of the yarn
(closed wale loop).
in the tensioning device near the left hand clamp of the twist
9.4.2 Clean the wale loops of cut ends by insertng needle
tester. Draw the yarn through the right-hand clamp under the
belowyarnswhichentertheloopsfromthespacebetween,and
requiredtensionuntiltheselectedlengthisindicated.Closethe
at the base of, the loops (or catch these yarns with tweezers)
right hand clamp and then the left hand clamp. Untwist the
and pull gently to free sufficient yarns to supply the required
yarn until a needle can be passed from clamp-to-clamp
number of yarns for testing plus some spares. See Note 5.
between the single yarns. Determine and record the untwisted
Maintain as compact a yarn bundle as possible, avoiding
length
...