ASTM D204-02(2021)
(Test Method)Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions.
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties:
Sections
Colorfastness to Drycleaning
73 – 83
Colorfastness to Laundering
62 – 72
Colorfastness to Water Migration
84 – 94
Diameter
43 – 50
Length per Thread Holder
34 – 42
Shrinkage, Single Strand
51 – 61
Dry Heat
58.1
Boiling Water
58.2
Strength and Elongation
15 – 21
Single Strand—Conditioned
19.1.1
Single Strand—Wet
19.1.2
Loop Strength
19.2
Knot Strength
19.3
Twist
22 – 27
Twist Balance
28 – 33
Yarn Number
7 – 14
Note 1: For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940.
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
General Information
- Status
- Published
- Publication Date
- 30-Jun-2021
- Technical Committee
- D13 - Textiles
- Drafting Committee
- D13.58 - Yarns and Fibers
Relations
- Effective Date
- 01-Feb-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Feb-2020
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2019
- Effective Date
- 01-Sep-2018
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2018
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2018
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2018
- Effective Date
- 01-Mar-2017
- Effective Date
- 01-Mar-2017
- Effective Date
- 01-Mar-2017
- Effective Date
- 01-Nov-2016
- Effective Date
- 01-Jan-2016
- Effective Date
- 15-Sep-2015
- Effective Date
- 01-Sep-2015
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2015
Overview
ASTM D204-02(2021): Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads provides comprehensive procedures for evaluating the physical properties of sewing threads. Developed by ASTM International, this standard is widely used in the textile industry for acceptance testing and quality assurance of sewing threads made from any fiber type. The standard specifies methods to assess key thread characteristics directly from thread holders, ensuring consistent product quality and performance in various textile applications. All test procedures conform to internationally recognized principles, including those outlined by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Key Topics
ASTM D204-02(2021) addresses several important sewing thread testing areas:
- Strength and Elongation: Methods to measure straight breaking force, loop strength, knot strength, and thread elongation, which are critical for evaluating seam durability and thread performance.
- Yarn Number: Procedures to determine yarn count or ticket number, providing insights into thread thickness and suitability for specific fabric weights.
- Twist and Twist Balance: Techniques to evaluate the amount, direction, and balance of twist in threads, factors that influence thread integrity and sewing behavior.
- Thread Diameter: Measurements of thread diameter using thickness gauges or optical instruments, important for needle selection and seam appearance.
- Length per Thread Holder: Methods to establish and verify the length of sewing thread on holders, essential for commerce and inventory accuracy.
- Shrinkage: Evaluation of thread shrinkage after exposure to boiling water or dry heat, which can affect seam puckering and dimensional stability.
- Colorfastness: Tests to determine thread resistance to color change and staining during laundering, drycleaning, and water exposure, supporting assurance of appearance retention.
Applications
ASTM D204-02(2021) is invaluable for a wide range of stakeholders in the textiles and apparel industry, including:
- Manufacturers and Suppliers: Perform acceptance testing of commercial sewing thread shipments to ensure product meets customer and contractual specifications.
- Quality Control Laboratories: Use standardized methods to test thread physical properties, verify product consistency, and troubleshoot production issues.
- Sewing and Apparel Brands: Develop procurement guidelines for sewing thread based on standardized measurements of strength, diameter, colorfastness, and shrinkage.
- Third-Party Testing Labs: Provide impartial testing and certification services for sewing thread evaluation in line with international standards.
- Regulatory Agencies and Trade Organizations: Reference standardized methods to support uniform practices across supply chains and marketplaces.
The standard helps identify and resolve inter-laboratory testing discrepancies using statistically robust comparative testing, ensuring reliable data in product evaluations and compliance.
Related Standards
ASTM D204-02(2021) references and complements numerous other textile testing standards, including:
- ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
- ASTM D1422/D1422M: Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns
- ASTM D1683/D1683M: Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
- ASTM D1907/D1907M: Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn by the Skein Method
- ASTM D2256/D2256M: Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the Single-Strand Method
- ASTM D1776/D1776M: Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
- AATCC 135: Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering
- AATCC Evaluation Procedures: For color change and staining
For seam performance and seam preparation tests, refer to ASTM D1683/D1683M and the withdrawn D3940.
Practical Value
ASTM D204-02(2021) enables accurate, reproducible sewing thread evaluation, ensuring that manufacturers and users select materials fit for purpose. By detailing standard test methods for sewing thread strength, twist, diameter, colorfastness, and shrinkage, the document supports efficient quality assurance, compliance, and product development efforts across the textiles industry. Implementing these methods helps minimize product failures, improve seam quality, and assure customer satisfaction.
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Frequently Asked Questions
ASTM D204-02(2021) is a standard published by ASTM International. Its full title is "Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads". This standard covers: SIGNIFICANCE AND USE 4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade. 4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias. SCOPE 1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber. 1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders. 1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions. 1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties: Sections Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73 – 83 Colorfastness to Laundering 62 – 72 Colorfastness to Water Migration 84 – 94 Diameter 43 – 50 Length per Thread Holder 34 – 42 Shrinkage, Single Strand 51 – 61 Dry Heat 58.1 Boiling Water 58.2 Strength and Elongation 15 – 21 Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1 Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2 Loop Strength 19.2 Knot Strength 19.3 Twist 22 – 27 Twist Balance 28 – 33 Yarn Number 7 – 14 Note 1: For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940. 1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard. 1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE 4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade. 4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias. SCOPE 1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber. 1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders. 1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions. 1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties: Sections Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73 – 83 Colorfastness to Laundering 62 – 72 Colorfastness to Water Migration 84 – 94 Diameter 43 – 50 Length per Thread Holder 34 – 42 Shrinkage, Single Strand 51 – 61 Dry Heat 58.1 Boiling Water 58.2 Strength and Elongation 15 – 21 Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1 Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2 Loop Strength 19.2 Knot Strength 19.3 Twist 22 – 27 Twist Balance 28 – 33 Yarn Number 7 – 14 Note 1: For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940. 1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard. 1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
ASTM D204-02(2021) is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 59.080.20 - Yarns. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
ASTM D204-02(2021) has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to ASTM D1776/D1776M-20, ASTM D1422/D1422M-13(2020), ASTM D1777-96(2019), ASTM D4848-98(2018), ASTM D1907/D1907M-12(2018), ASTM D4849-13(2018), ASTM D3823-07(2018), ASTM D123-17, ASTM D1683/D1683M-17, ASTM D1683/D1683M-17e1, ASTM D1683/D1683M-16, ASTM D1776/D1776M-16, ASTM D123-15b, ASTM D123-15a, ASTM D2724-07(2015). Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
ASTM D204-02(2021) is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D204 − 02 (Reapproved 2021)
Standard Test Methods for
Sewing Threads
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
threads of any fiber.
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of
sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not
2. Referenced Documents
address any other properties that may be important for the
2.1 ASTM Standards:
satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
end use conditions.
D1422/D1422M TestMethodforTwistinSingleSpunYarns
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow-
by the Untwist-Retwist Method
ing properties:
D1423/D1423M Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-
Sections Counting
Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73–83
D1683/D1683M Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of
Colorfastness to Laundering 62–72
Woven Fabrics
Colorfastness to Water Migration 84–94
Diameter 43–50 D1776/D1776M Practice for Conditioning and Testing Tex-
Length per Thread Holder 34–42
tiles
Shrinkage, Single Strand 51–61
D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
Dry Heat 58.1
Boiling Water 58.2
D1907/D1907M Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn
Strength and Elongation 15–21
(Yarn Number) by the Skein Method
Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1
D2256/D2256M Test Method forTensile Properties ofYarns
Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2
Loop Strength 19.2
by the Single-Strand Method
Knot Strength 19.3
D2258/D2258M Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Twist 22–27
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused,
Twist Balance 28–33
Yarn Number 7–14 and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
NOTE 1—For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test
Sewing Thread
Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940.
D3823 Practice for DeterminingTicket Numbers for Sewing
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
Threads
standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are
D3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) and Elon-
provided for information only and are not considered standard.
gation of Sewn Seams of Knit or Woven Stretch Textile
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the 3
Fabrics (Withdrawn 1995)
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
Related Properties of Textiles
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1 2
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Fibers. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
CurrenteditionapprovedJuly1,2021.PublishedJuly2021.Originallypublished the ASTM website.
as D204 – 24 T. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D204 – 02 (2016). DOI: The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
10.1520/D0204-02R21. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D204 − 02 (2021)
2.2 AATCC Standards: 5. Sampling
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home
5.1 LotSample—Asalotsampleforacceptancetesting,take
Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics
at random the number of shipping units directed in an
Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change
applicable material specification or other agreement between
Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale
the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use
Practice D2258/D2258M. Consider shipping cases or other
3. Terminology
shipping units to be the primary sampling units.
3.1 Definitions:
NOTE 2—An adequate specification or other agreement between the
3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of the
purchaserandthesupplierrequirestakingintoaccountvariabilitybetween
following terms used in this standard elongation; force and
shipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping unit, and
loop-breaking force.
betweenspecimensfromasinglepackagesoastoprovideasamplingplan
3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of the
with a meaningful producer’s risk, consumer’s risk, acceptable quality
following terms used in this standard colorfastness; covered level, and limiting quality level.
yarn, greige thread, growth, sew, sewing force, sewing thread,
5.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.
tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lot
3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of other
sample the number of packages or ends directed in an
terms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage,
applicable material specification or other agreement to use
stitch, stitching, stitch type, and twist balance.
Practice D2258/D2258M. Preferably, the same number of
packages should be taken from each shipping unit in the lot
4. Significance and Use
sample. If differing numbers of packages are to be taken from
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods
shipping units in the lot sample, determine at random which
D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread
shipping units are to have each number of packages drawn.
are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-
5.3 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory
cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the
sample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.
individual test method. These test methods are the best
When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,
available and are used extensively in the trade.
select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more)
6. Conditioning
comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a
statistical bias between them using competent statistical assis-
6.1 For routine testing, condition the samples as directed in
tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative
Practice D1776/D1776M.
teststhatareashomogeneousaspossible,drawnfromthesame
6.2 When preconditioning is specified in a material specifi-
lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results
cation or contract order precondition the prepared specimens
during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers
foratleast3hinanatmospherewithrelativehumiditybetween
to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories
10 % and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50 °C
involved should be compared using a statistical test for
(122 °F) as directed in Practice D1776/D1776M.
unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing
6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to mov-
series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and
ing air in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 21 °C 6
corrected, or future test results for that material must be
1 °C (70 °F 6 2 °F) and 65 % 6 2 % relative humidity, until
adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
the mass of the specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 %
after2hinthe standard atmosphere.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215, http://
www.aatcc.org.
YARN NUMBER
7. Scope 9. Significance and Use
9.1 This test method should be used to establish standard
7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn number
ticket numbers for sewing threads according to Practice
of all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder.
D3823.
8. Summary of Test Method
10. Apparatus
8.1 Ameasured length of conditioned thread is wound on a
10.1 Reel:
reel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed in
10.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a
tex. specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing
D204 − 02 (2021)
TABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein in
mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and
Checking Length by Skein Method
with an indicator of the length wound.Awarning bell that will
1.5 yd Reel
ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that
Resultant Yarn Number 1 m Reel Perimeter
Perimeter
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
All thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps
10.2 Balance: 200 m 300 yd
Threads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps
10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, a
100 m 150 yd
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
All threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps
50 m 75 yd
tivity of 1 part in 100.
10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning, a
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
tivity of 1 part in 1000 needed.
13. Report
11. Conditioning
13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted in
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
Table 1 and follow the directions given in Section 6.
and the method of sampling used.
12. Procedure
13.2 Report the following information:
12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directed
13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,
in Option 1 of Test Method D1907/D1907M, except that in
13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to two
placeofTable2inTestMethodD1907/D1907MuseTable1of
significant figures,
Test Methods D204.
13.2.3 Reel perimeter,
13.2.4 Length of skein, and
TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant Yarn
13.2.5 Number of specimens.
Number
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1 m Reel Perimeter 14. Precision and Bias
Perimeter
All thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps 14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are as
100 m 120 yd
given in Test Method D1907/D1907M.
All threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps
10 m 12 yd
STRENGTH AND ELONGATION
15. Scope including: straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength,
loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and knot strength.
15.1 Thistestmethodcanbeusedtodeterminesinglestrand
17.1.1 Straight Strength—The straight breaking strength of
breaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single strand
a thread can be used to calculate the loop breaking strength
testing includes loop strength, knot strength and elongation at
once a regression equation has been determined because the
sewing forces.
loop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength.
15.2 This international standard was developed in accor-
17.1.2 Loop Strength—The loop breaking strength is a
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
measure of the thread’s ability to contribute to seam perfor-
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
mance. Loop breaking strength of a thread bears a direct
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
relationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seam
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
breaking strength.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
17.1.3 Loop Elongation—The loop elongation of the thread
16. Summary of Test Method is one important factor contributing to elongation of a seam,
along with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches per
16.1 Single strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensile
inch, and the nature of the material stitched.
testing machine at a predetermined elongation rate and the
17.1.4 ElongationatSewingForce—The elongation at sew-
tensile properties are determined.
ingforceofathreadinfluencesitsbehaviorduringthestitching
16.2 The test method offers the following three physical
cycle on a sewing machine.
configurations of the specimen:
17.1.5 Knot Strength—The reduction in breaking force due
16.2.1 straight,
to the presence of a knot is considered a measure of the
16.2.2 looped,
brittleness of the thread.
16.2.3 knotted.
18. Conditioning
17. Significance and Use
17.1 There are several properties of sewing thread that are 18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 of
significant with regards to sewing and seam performance, these Test Methods D204.
D204 − 02 (2021)
19. Procedure force-extension chart, or display at a force of 227 g ( ⁄2 lb) for
thread used for seams in light-weight fabrics in the 0.135 g⁄m
19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:
to270g/m,or(4 oz⁄ydto8oz/yd)rangeandataforceof340 g
19.1.1 Conditioned Threads—Select conditioned specimens
( ⁄4 lb) for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 g⁄m to
and determine breaking force and elongation as directed in
0.520 g/m (8 oz⁄yd to 15 oz/yd).
Option A1 of Test Method D2256/D2256M except that a
250 mm 6 3 mm (10.0 in. 6 0.1 in.) or 500 mm 65mm
20. Report
(20.0 in. 6 0.2 in.) gage length and a constant-rate-of-
extension (CRE) type tensile testing machine having a jaw
20.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
separation rate of 300 mm⁄min 6 10 mm/min (12.0 in.⁄min 6
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break
and the method of sampling used.
requirement.
20.2 Report the following information:
19.1.2 Wet Threads—Select conditioned specimens and de-
20.2.1 Options if other than A1,
terminethebreakingforceandelongationasdirectedinOption
20.2.2 Testing machine type if other than CRE,
A2 of Test Method D2256/D2256M except that a CRE type
testingmachinehavingajawseparationrateof300 mm⁄min 6 20.2.3 Gage length tested,
10 mm/min (12.0 in.⁄min 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disre-
20.2.4 Number of specimens tested,
gard the 20 s to break requirement.
20.2.5 Theaverageofthebreakingforcesforasampleisthe
sample breaking strength.
19.2 Loop Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de-
termine the loop breaking force as directed in Option C1 of 20.2.6 Average and coefficient of variation of percent elon-
Test Method D2256/D2256M. Disregard the 20 s to break.
gation at break or at specified force as determined for single-
strand, knot and loop configurations, and
19.3 Knot Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de-
20.2.7 Average elongation at sewing forces, loop
termine the knot breaking force as directed in Option B1 of
elongation, either or both, if determined.
Test Method D2256/D2256M. Disregard the 20 s to break.
19.4 Elongation at Sewing Forces—Test the specimens as
21. Precision and Bias
directed for conditioned thread in 19.1.1. Read the elongation
from the force elongation chart or display at the force specified 21.1 The precision and bias for testing strength and elonga-
for the needle thread of the seam to be sewn. tion are given in Test Method D2256/D2256M.
19.4.1 If the force on the needle thread is not known, a
guideline for sewing elongation can be obtained by reading the
TWIST
22. Scope D1423M, except take the conditioned specimen directly from
the side of the thread holder for testing.
22.1 This test method determines the amount and direction
of twist at the completion of any stage of twisting in single 25.2 Determine the amount of ply twist in a plied, or the
(spun or filament), plied, or cabled thread. The procedures are component elements of a cabled thread made on the Cotton
designed primarily for thread on holders. Spinning System as directed in Test Method D1423/D1423M,
except take the conditioned specimen directly from the side of
23. Summary of Test Method
the thread holder for testing. Determine the singles twist as
directed in Test Method D1422/D1422M.
23.1 The turns of twist in a known length of thread are
counted as they are being removed by rotating one end of the
26. Report
specimen while the other end remains fixed until the elements
26.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
of the yarn being tested are parallel and free from twist. Twist
Methods D204. Describe the material or produce sampled and
is reported as the number of turns required to untwist the
the method of sampling used.
thread, per unit length.
26.2 Report the following information:
24. Significance and Use
26.2.1 Averagesingle,plied,andcabledthreadtwistinturns
24.1 Twist is an important factor for determining the ability
per metre to the nearest whole number of turns per inch to one
of a sewing thread to withstand sewing forces and provide
decimal.
strength to the seam.
26.2.2 Standard deviation and coefficient of variation, if
calculated,
25. Procedure
26.2.3 Direction of each twist, S or Z.
25.1 Determine the amount of twist in the component 26.2.4 Length of test specimens, in millimetres or inches.
elements of a plied, or cabled thread made on the Linen, or 26.2.5 Tension used, if different from that specified in Test
Worsted Spinning System as directed in Test Method D1423/ Methods D1422/D1422M or D1423/D1423M.
D204 − 02 (2021)
27. Precision and Bias
27.1 The precision and bias for twist testing are given in
Test Methods D1422/D1422M and D1423/D1423M, as appli-
cable.
TWIST BALANCE
28. Scope 31.2 Countthenumberofcompleterevolutionsmadebythe
thread as an indication of twist balance.
28.1 This test method determines the tendency of thread to
twist on itself when held in loop form.
TABLE 3 Components of Variance as Standard Deviations, Units
as Indicated
Within- Between
Single-Operator
Names of Properties Laboratory Laboratory
Component
Component Component
Twist balance, turns 0.0100 0.0100 0.200
Length, m 1.69 0.000 1.67
Diameter, mm 0.025 0.025 0.025
Shrinkage, wet or dry 0.310 0.310 0.340
percentage points
A
TABLE 4 Critical Difference, Units as Indicated, for the Conditions noted
Number Observations in Single-Operator Within Laboratory Between Laboratory
Name of Properties
Each Average Precision Precision Precision
Twist balance, turns 1 0.0232 0.0329 0.466
3 0.0134 0.0268 0.466
5 0.0104 0.0254 0.466
10 0.00735 0.0244 0.466
Length, m 1 3.93 3.93 5.53
3 2.27 2.27 4.50
5 1.76 1.76 4.26
10 1.24 1.24 4.08
Diameter, mm 1 0.058 0.082 0.100
3 0.034 0.067 0.089
5 0.026 0.064 0.086
10 0.018 0.061 0.084
Shrinkage, wet or dry percentage points 1 0.721 1.02 1.29
3 0.416 0.833 1.15
5 0.322 0.790 1.12
10 0.228 0.756 1.09
A
The critical differences were calculated using t = 1.645, which is based on infinite degrees of freedom.
NOTE 3—A twist tester may be used to determine the number of
29. Summary of Test Method
revolutions.
29.1 The thread is held in loop form and its tendency to
twist is noted. 32. Report
32.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
30. Significance and Use
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
and the method of sampling used.
30.1 This test method is important in predicting the kinking
and snarling tendency of thread during actual sewing opera- 32.2 Report the number of complete revolutions specimen
tion.
and the average of all specimens.
33. Precision and Bias
31. Procedure
33.1 Precision—For the components of variance in Table 3,
31.1 Withdraw approximately1m(1yd)of conditioned
two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
thread from the holder in the same manner as that in which the
cantly different at the 90 % probability level if the difference
thread is delivered to the sewing machine. Cut the thread and
equals or exceeds the critical differences tabulated in Table 4.
form the segment in a loop with the free ends approximately
100 mm (4 in.) apart. Suspend the loop in a draft-free 33.2 Bias—This procedure for measuring twist balance has
environment and let the thread twist on itself until it comes to no known bias because the value of the twist properties can be
rest. defined only in terms of a test method.
D204 − 02 (2021)
LENGTH PER THREAD HOLDER
34. Scope the final part skein in metres (yards) by counting the number of
completerevolutionsofthereelandbymeasuringthelengthof
34.1 This test method determines sewing thread lengths
the last partial wrap to the nearest 0.1 m (4 in.).
wound on a thread holder.
40. Calculation
35. Summary of Test Method
40.1 Calculate the total length of each thread holder to the
35.1 The length of sewing thread on a thread holder is
nearest1m(1yd)for holders with nominal length in excess of
measured by winding the thread from the thread holder onto a
100 m (150 yd) and to the nearest 0.1 m (4 in.) for holders with
reel of known perimeter into skeins of specified wraps (see
nominal length of 100 m (150 yd) or less, using Eq 1:
Table 2) and any residual part skeins and counted wraps. The
Length of thread holder, m 5 A6B6C (1)
total length is the sum of the full skeins and length of any part
skein.
where:
A = number of whole skeins times length per skein,
36. Significance and Use
B = number of complete wraps in last partial skein times
36.1 This test method is used to establish the length per
metres per wrap and,
thread holder when thread is being sold on a length basis.
C = length of last partial wrap on the reel, m (yd).
40.2 Calculate the average length per holder of sewing
37. Apparatus
thread for the lot sample.
37.1 Reel:
41. Report
37.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a
specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing
41.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and
MethodsD204.Describethematerial(s),orproduct(s)sampled
with an indicator of the length wound.Awarning bell that will
and the method of sampling used.
ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that
41.2 Report the individual lengths per holder, and the
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
average length based on the lengths on all the holders tested.
38. Sampling
42. Precision and Bias
38.1 Sample as directed in Specification D3693.
42.1 Precision—For the components of variance in Table 3,
two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
39. Procedure
cantly different in the 90 % probability level if the difference
39.1 Determine the tension for reeling as directed in Test
equals or exceeds the critical differences tabulated in Table 4.
Method D1907/D1907M. The thread need not be measured for
42.2 Bias—This procedure for measuring length per thread
length per thread holder in the standard atmosphere for testing
holder has no known bias because the value of the length
textiles.
properties can be defined only in terms of a test method.
39.2 Remove the thread from the holder by reeling skeins
having the length specified in Table 2. Determine the length of
DIAMETER
43. Scope Sewing performance can be affected because the thread is
required to pass through restrictions such as the needle eye and
43.1 This test method determines thread diameter either by
tensiondisks.Seamappearancecanbeadverselyaffectedwhen
a thickness gage (preferred procedure) or by optical measure-
the diameter of the thread is large enough to displace fabric
ments.
yarn and result in a puckered seam.
44. Summary of Test Method
45.1.1 Thread diameter is also a consideration when select-
44.1 Segments of thread are placed on the stage of a
ing sewing threads for embroidery, contrast stitching, or other
thickness gage and the diameter is the thickness read from the
decorative applications since cover is important with such
gage. Optionally, segments of thread are placed on a rotatable
threads.
microscope stage and their diameters are measured using a
45.2 Acceptance Testing—The optical procedure for testing
calibrated eyepiece.
sewing threads for diameter is not recommended for accep-
45. Significance and Use
tance testing of commercial shipments since the optical proce-
duresuffersfromdifficultyindeterminingtheexactboundaries
45.1 A knowledge of thread diameter is important because
diameter can affect sewing performance and seam appearance. of threads having protruding fibers on the surface.
D204 − 02 (2021)
46. Apparatus sufficient to remove slack without appreciably stretching the
thread. Rotate the stage until the thread is parallel to the
46.1 Thickness Gage Procedure:
movable cross hair.
46.1.1 Thickness gage, as described in Test Method D1777,
47.2.2 Determine the diameter of the thread to the nearest
with a presser foot diameter of 9.52 mm 6 0.02 mm (0.375 in.
0.02mm(0.001in.)asthedifferenceinthemicrometersettings
6 0.001 in.). The presser foot and moving parts connected
whenthecrosshairismovedfromoneedgeofthethreadtothe
therewith shall be weighted to apply a total force of 1.67 6
other.
0.03 N (6 6 0.1 oz) equivalent to a pressure of 23.4 kPa
47.2.3 Repeat 47.2.1 and 47.2.2 for a total of 20 measure-
(3.5 psi).
ments on segments of thread separated by at least 300 mm
46.2 Optical Procedure:
(12 in.).
46.2.1 Microscope, having a stage that can be rotated to
48. Calculation
bring the thread parallel to the movable cross hair in the
eyepiece, a magnification to allow the thread to cover approxi-
48.1 Calculate the average of the ten thickness gage values
mately one quarter of the field of view, and either a micrometer
recorded in 47.1 or 20 optically measured values recorded in
eyepiece with a scale, or a filar micrometer eyepiece.
47.2 for each thread holder to the nearest 0.02 mm (0.001 in.).
46.2.2 Mounting Plate, with clips or other means suitable
48.2 Calculatetheaverageforthelottothenearest0.02mm
for holding thread at a constant tension sufficient to remove
(0.001 in.).
slack without stretching the specimen while it is measured on
the microscope stage. 49. Report
49.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
47. Procedure
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