ASTM D2816-95

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Designation: D 2816 – 95
Standard Test Method for
Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2816; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.2.2.1 Discussion—For the purpose of this test method,
width shall be determined as directed in Test Method D 2130.
1.1 This test method covers a sequential procedure for
3.2.3 cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of
determining whether or not the cashmere coarse-hair content of
the cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a
a sample exceeds a specified value.
percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;
NOTE 1—For the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in
that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in
cashmere, refer to Specification D 2817.
cashmere hair.
NOTE 2—For the quantitative analysis of cashmere hair and blends of
3.2.4 cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair
cashmere hair and other fibers, refer to Test Methods D 629.
having widths of 30 μm or less.
1.2 This test method is applicable only to cashmere hair in
3.2.4.1 Discussion—For the purpose of this test method,
the form of roving, yarn, or fabric, and to the cashmere hair
width shall be determined as directed in Test Method D 2130.
content of blends with other fibers, where the expected
3.2.5 cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of
cashmere coarse-hair content is not more than five mass
goat (Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the
percent (see Footnote C of Table 1). For greater expected mass
cashmere goat.
percentages of cashmere coarse-hair, see Test Methods D 629.
3.2.5.1 Discussion—Characteristically, cashmere hair con-
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
sists of fine down (undercoat) fibers and coarse (outer-coat)
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
fibers.
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
4. Summary of Test Method
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4.1 One thousand (or more) individual fibers of cashmere
hair are examined microscopically and classified either as
2. Referenced Documents
cashmere down or cashmere coarse-hair on the basis of fiber
2.1 ASTM Standards:
width.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials
4.2 The procedure (6.1 and 6.2) for classifying a fiber as
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
cashmere coarse-hair or cashmere requires microscopic exami-
D 2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other
nation of fiber segments of fixed length. The number of fiber
Animal Fibers by Microprojection
segments of each width category is proportional to the total
D 2817 Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair
length of the fibers in each category. Hence, the percentage by
Content in Cashmere
length of cashmere coarse-hair in cashmere hair is equal to the
percentage by number of cashmere coarse-hair segments as
3. Terminology
determined by this procedure.
3.1 Definitions—For definitions of textile terms used in this
4.3 The observed number of cashmere coarse-hair fibers is
test method, refer to Terminology D 123.
compared with the numbers in Table 1 and a decision is made
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
(1) to accept the lot as conforming, (2) to reject the lot as
3.2.1 cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere
nonconforming, or (3) to continue testing. The counting,
hair or products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair
classification, and comparison process is continued until a
content not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by
decision can be made as to whether the lot does or does not
length.
conform to the specification. Table 1 is based on stated levels
3.2.2 cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cash-
of confidence.
mere hair having widths greater than 30 μm.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 This test method may be used for determining compli-
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on Textiles
ance with a specification for maximum cashmere coarse-hair
and is the direct responsiblity of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.
content and is required to be used for determining compliance
Current edition approved Sept. 10, 1995. Published December 1995. Originally
with Specification D 2817.
published as D 2816 – 69 T. Last previous edition D 2816 – 91.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 2816
A
TABLE 1 Sequential Accept-Reject Numbers for Selected Specifications
B
Specification, Length %
Number of Fi-
0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0
bers Counted
A R AR ARA R A R A R A R A R A R
C
1 000 . 17 . 18 . 19 . 20 . 21 . 22 . 23 . 24 . 25
2 000 . 19 . 21 . 23 . 25 . 27 . 29 1 31 3 33 5 35
3 000 . 21 . 24 . 27 0 30 3 33 6 36 9 39 12 42 15 45
4 000 . 23 . 27 1 31 5 35 9 39 13 43 17 47 21 51 25 55
5 000 . 25 0 30 5 35 10 40 15 45 20 50 25 55 30 60 35 65
6 000 . 27 3 33 9 39 15 45 21 51 27 57 33 63 39 69 45 75
7 000 . 29 6 36 13 43 20 50 27 57 34 64 41 71 48 77 55 85
8 000 1 31 9 39 17 47 25 55 33 63 41 71 49 79 57 86 65 95
9000 3 331242 215130 60 39 69 48 78 57 87 66 95 75 105
10 000 5 35 15 45 25 55 35 65 45 75 55 85 65 95 75 104 85 115
A
These accept-reject numbers are based on the following conditions:
(1) The probability of accepting a lot that exceeds the specifications by 10 % or more of the specification percent is 0.05.
(2) The probability of rejecting a lot that is 10 % or more of the specification percent below the specification is also 0.05.
B
Extensive interlaboratory tests have shown that, for the concentration of cashmere coarse-hair covered in Table 1, the relationship between “Specification, Length
Percent” and mass percent of cashmere coarse-hair is approximately linear, as shown in (Eq 1):
M 5 3S 1 0.9 (1)
where:
M = mass percent of cashmere coarse-hair, and
S = specified maximum coarse-hair content in length percent (0.2 # S # 1.0).
The data from these studies are on file with the Secretary of Subcommittee D13.13, Committee D-13 of ASTM.
C
Blanks correspond to a theoretical number less than zero. No decision to accept can be made until a number of fibers corresponding to the first nonblank entry has
been classified.
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from
...