ASTM D2816-95(2001)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
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Designation: D 2816 – 95 (Reapproved 2001)
Standard Test Method for
Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2816; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.2.2 cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cash-
mere hair having widths greater than 30 µm.
1.1 This test method covers a sequential procedure for
3.2.2.1 Discussion—For the purpose of this test method,
determiningwhetherornotthecashmerecoarse-haircontentof
width shall be determined as directed in Test Method D 2130.
a sample exceeds a specified value.
3.2.3 cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of
NOTE 1—For the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in
the cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a
cashmere, refer to Specification D 2817.
percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;
NOTE 2—For the quantitative analysis of cashmere hair and blends of
that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in
cashmere hair and other fibers, refer to Test Methods D 629.
cashmere hair.
1.2 This test method is applicable only to cashmere hair in
3.2.4 cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair
the form of roving, yarn, or fabric, and to the cashmere hair
having widths of 30 µm or less.
content of blends with other fibers, where the expected
3.2.4.1 Discussion—For the purpose of this test method,
cashmere coarse-hair content is not more than five mass
width shall be determined as directed in Test Method D 2130.
percent (see Footnote C of Table 1). For greater expected mass
3.2.5 cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of
percentages of cashmere coarse-hair, see Test Methods D 629.
goat (Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
cashmere goat.
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
3.2.5.1 Discussion—Characteristically, cashmere hair con-
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
sists of fine down (undercoat) fibers and coarse (outer-coat)
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
fibers.
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4. Summary of Test Method
2. Referenced Documents
4.1 One thousand (or more) individual fibers of cashmere
2.1 ASTM Standards:
hair are examined microscopically and classified either as
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials
cashmere down or cashmere coarse-hair on the basis of fiber
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
width.
D 2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other
4.2 The procedure (6.1 and 6.2) for classifying a fiber as
Animal Fibers by Microprojection
cashmere coarse-hair or cashmere requires microscopic exami-
D 2817 Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair
nation of fiber segments of fixed length. The number of fiber
Content in Cashmere
segments of each width category is proportional to the total
length of the fibers in each category. Hence, the percentage by
3. Terminology
length of cashmere coarse-hair in cashmere hair is equal to the
3.1 Definitions—For definitions of textile terms used in this
percentage by number of cashmere coarse-hair segments as
test method, refer to Terminology D 123.
determined by this procedure.
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
4.3 The observed number of cashmere coarse-hair fibers is
3.2.1 cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere
compared with the numbers in Table 1 and a decision is made
hair or products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair
(1) to accept the lot as conforming, (2) to reject the lot as
content not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by
nonconforming, or (3) to continue testing. The counting,
length.
classification, and comparison process is continued until a
decision can be made as to whether the lot does or does not
conform to the specification. Table 1 is based on stated levels
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 onTextiles
and is the direct responsiblity of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.
of confidence.
Current edition approved Sept. 10, 1995. Published December 1995. Originally
published as D 2816 – 69 T. Last previous edition D 2816 – 91.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 2816
A
TABLE 1 Sequential Accept-Reject Numbers for Selected Specifications
B
Specification, Length %
Number of Fi-
0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0
bers Counted
A R AR ARA R A R A R A R A R A R
C
1 000 . 17 . 18 . 19 . 20 . 21 . 22 . 23 . 24 . 25
2 000 . 19 . 21 . 23 . 25 . 27 . 29 1 31 3 33 5 35
3 000 . 21 . 24 . 27 0 30 3 33 6 36 9 39 12 42 15 45
4 000 . 23 . 27 1 31 5 35 9 39 13 43 17 47 21 51 25 55
5 000 . 25 0 30 5 35 10 40 15 45 20 50 25 55 30 60 35 65
6 000 . 27 3 33 9 39 15 45 21 51 27 57 33 63 39 69 45 75
7 000 . 29 6 36 13 43 20 50 27 57 34 64 41 71 48 77 55 85
8 000 1 31 9 39 17 47 25 55 33 63 41 71 49 79 57 86 65 95
9000 3 331242 215130 60 39 69 48 78 57 87 66 95 75 105
10 000 5 35 15 45 25 55 35 65 45 75 55 85 65 95 75 104 85 115
A
These accept-reject numbers are based on the following conditions:
(1) The probability of accepting a lot that exceeds the specifications by 10 % or more of the specification percent is 0.05.
(2) The probability of rejecting a lot that is 10 % or more of the specification percent below the specification is also 0.05.
B
Extensive interlaboratory tests have shown that, for the concentration of cashmere coarse-hair covered in Table 1, the relationship between “Specification, Length
Percent” and mass percent of cashmere coarse-hair is approximately linear, as shown in (Eq 1):
M 5 3S 1 0.9 (1)
where:
M = mass percent of cashmere coarse-hair, and
S = specified maximum coarse-hair content in length percent (0.2# S# 1.0).
The data from these studies are on file with the Secretary of Subcommittee D13.13, Committee D13 of ASTM.
C
Blanks correspond to a theoretical number less than zero. No decision to accept can be made until a number of fibers corresponding to the first nonblank entry has
been classified.
5. Significance and Use 6. Apparatus
6.1 Apparatus is as specified in Test Method D 2130.
5.1 This test method may be used for determining compli-
ance with a specification for maximum cashmere coarse-hair
7. Pr
...