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ASTM D2816-05

(Test Method)

Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere

Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
This test method may be used for determining compliance with a specification for maximum cashmere coarse-hair content and is required to be used for determining compliance with Specification D 2817.
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D 2816 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student’t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.
When the product being tested has a cashmere coarse-hair content that departs significantly either way from the specified amount, the sequential test procedure described herein will result in a substantial reduction in the number of observations required for a decision at the stated level of confidence. On the other hand, when the product being tested has a cashmere coarse-hair content that approaches the specified amount, the sequential procedure ensures that the necessary increased number of observations shall be made to secure a correct decision at the stated level of confidence.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers a sequential procedure for determining whether or not the cashmere coarse-hair content of a sample exceeds a specified value. Note 1
For the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere, refer to Specification D 2817.Note 2
For the quantitative analysis of cashmere hair and blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, refer to Test Methods D 629.
1.2 This test method is applicable only to cashmere hair in the form of roving, yarn, or fabric, and to the cashmere hair content of blends with other fibers, where the expected cashmere coarse-hair content is not more than five mass percent (see Footnote C of ). For greater expected mass percentages of cashmere coarse-hair, see Test Methods D 629.
This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

Status
Historical
Publication Date
31-Aug-2005
ICS
59.060.10 - Natural fibres
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.13 - Wool and Felt
Current Stage
Ref Project

Relations

Replaces
ASTM D2816-95(2001) - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
Effective Date
01-Sep-2005
Replaced By
ASTM D2816-05(2009) - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere (Withdrawn 2018)
Effective Date
01-Jul-2009
Referred By
ASTM D6466-10(2018) - Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
Effective Date
01-Sep-2005
Referred By
ASTM D2130-22 - Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by Microprojection
Effective Date
01-Sep-2005
Referred By
ASTM D2817-18 - Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
Effective Date
01-Sep-2005
Referred By
ASTM D4845-10(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
Effective Date
01-Sep-2005

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ASTM D2816-05 - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in CashmereASTM D2816-05 - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
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ASTM D2816-05 - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
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Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D 2816 – 05
Standard Test Method for
1
Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2816; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, see Termi-
nology D 123.
1.1 This test method covers a sequential procedure for
determiningwhetherornotthecashmerecoarse-haircontentof
4. Summary of Test Method
a sample exceeds a specified value.
4.1 One thousand (or more) individual fibers of cashmere
NOTE 1—For the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in
hair are examined microscopically and classified either as
cashmere, refer to Specification D 2817.
cashmere down or cashmere coarse-hair on the basis of fiber
NOTE 2—For the quantitative analysis of cashmere hair and blends of
width.
cashmere hair and other fibers, refer to Test Methods D 629.
4.2 The procedure (6.1 and 6.2) for classifying a fiber as
1.2 This test method is applicable only to cashmere hair in
cashmere coarse-hair or cashmere requires microscopic exami-
the form of roving, yarn, or fabric, and to the cashmere hair
nation of fiber segments of fixed length. The number of fiber
content of blends with other fibers, where the expected
segments of each width category is proportional to the total
cashmere coarse-hair content is not more than five mass
length of the fibers in each category. Hence, the percentage by
percent (see Footnote C of Table 1). For greater expected mass
length of cashmere coarse-hair in cashmere hair is equal to the
percentages of cashmere coarse-hair, see Test Methods D 629.
percentage by number of cashmere coarse-hair segments as
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
determined by this procedure.
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
4.3 The observed number of cashmere coarse-hair fibers is
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
compared with the numbers in Table 1 and a decision is made
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
(1) to accept the lot as conforming, (2) to reject the lot as
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
nonconforming, or (3) to continue testing. The counting,
classification, and comparison process is continued until a
2. Referenced Documents
decision can be made as to whether the lot does or does not
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
conform to the specification. Table 1 is based on stated levels
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials
of confidence.
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
D 2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other
5. Significance and Use
Animal Fibers by Microprojection
5.1 This test method may be used for determining compli-
D 2817 Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair
ance with a specification for maximum cashmere coarse-hair
Content in Cashmere
content and is required to be used for determining compliance
D 4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
with Specification D 2817.
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in
3. Terminology
reported test results when using Test Method D 2816 for
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.13, Wool and Wool
acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and
Felt, refer to Terminology D 4845.
the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent
cashmere, cashmere coarse hair, cashmere coarse hair content,
statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of
cashmere down, cashmere hair.
bias.As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test
specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 onTextiles
from a lot of material of the type in question. The test
and is the direct responsiblity of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.
specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers
Current edition approved Sept. 1, 2005. Published September 2005. Originally
to each laboratory for testing.The average results from the two
approved in 1969. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 2816 – 95(2001).
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or laboratories should be compared using Student’s t-test for
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
unpaireddataandanacceptableprobabilitylevelchosenbythe
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
two parties before the testing is be
...

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ASTM D2525-22(Practice)
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5.1 This recommended practice furnishes directions for the sampling of wool of the various forms indicated in Section 1, in order that correct probability statements may be made about the relationship between the sample mean and the population mean. If these statements are to be correct, certain conditions, which are stated, must hold.  
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ASTM D2130-22(Test Method)
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method specifies a sampling and testing procedure for the measurement of average fiber diameter and variation in diameter of animal fibers as required in Test Method D2968.  
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of moisture present in ordinary commercial and industrial samples of wool in all forms except grease wool, using the oven-drying technique.  
1.2 Formulas for calculating the moisture content (as-received basis) and moisture regain (oven-dried basis) are given. It is always important to use the correct term which corresponds to the basis used in the calculation (see 12.2.1).  
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5.1 Test Method D1574 is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing since the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D1574 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.  
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5.3 The residues obtained in this test may be subjected to chemical analysis for identification and assay of the component materials, if desired.  
5.4 The specified solvent in this test method does not remove some materials, such as soaps, that may be present in wool and hence in some cases may reflect more closely the added content of some extractables in wool such as oils. When such materials are present and an estimate of their quantity is desired, some other solvent or combination of solvents should be used as spec...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of extractable matter in samples of all forms of wool, except grease wool, that is extractable with a non-flammable vapor degreasing and cleaning solvent.  
1.2 This test method does not cover the determination of the amounts of different components in the extracted matter nor their identification.  
1.3 This test method is suitable for use with other animal fibers.  
Note 1: The determination of extractable matter in yarns and in felts is covered in Test Methods D2257 and D461. For the determination of alcohol-extractable matter in oven-dry scoured wool, refer to Test Methods D584 and D1334.  
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
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ASTM D1294-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Tensile Strength and Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fiber Bundles 1-in. (25.4 mm) Gage Length

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D1294 for the determination of tensile strength may be used for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments of wool, but caution is advised since technicians may fail to get good agreement between results. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1 may be advisable.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogenous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
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SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the breaking force (or load) and estimation of the tensile strength and tenacity of wool fiber bundles with a 1-in. (25.4 mm) gage length. A procedure for preparation of the fiber bundle is included.  
1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard. Because the instrument is calibrated in inch-pound units, inch-pound units are shown first, contrary to Committee D13 policy.  
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1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Cotton fiber that is on average finer and more mature is more desirable than coarse or immature fiber, although distinction between these qualities cannot be made quickly and accurately using current test methods. Immature fibers break more easily during processing and have a tendency to form into neps (small entanglements) during processing in the spinning mill. These consequences adversely affect yarn and fabric quality and appearance. Yarn and fabric produced from immature fiber is typically also less lustrous and does not take up dye consistently so yarn and fabric appearance may be different after dyeing.  
5.2 Maturity has a high positive correlation with fiber length and strength but genetic differences and differences in fiber wall thickness caused by plant diseases, soil, and water conditions during the growing season interfere with this relationship.  
5.2.1 Fine fibers are required for fine count yarn manufacture and fiber fineness affects yarn count, evenness and strength. Both fineness and ribbon width are strong genetic traits evident between species and affected by growing conditions within species.  
5.2.2 Micronaire has traditionally been used as a measure of fiber fineness although the value actually measures fiber specific surface area or surface area per unit weight. As a result, micronaire varies concomitantly with both maturity and fineness (see Fig. 2). Maturity and fineness are related to micronaire via Lord’s equation.4
FIG. 2 Relationship Between Micronaire (X), Fineness (H), and Maturity (M)  
5.3 Cottonscope values have been judged against fineness, maturity and ribbon width values produced by examination of thousands of individual, magnified fiber cross-sections. Relationships with equivalent values by these and other older test methods are highly significant5,6 particularly if the number of cross-sections analyzed is high (>3000) and the cross-sections are carefully prepared and measured. Cottonscope measures approximately 20,...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of linear density (gravimetric fineness hereafter stated as fineness), maturity, micronaire, and ribbon width of cotton fibers from a loose, chemically untreated sample taken before harvest, during ginning, during mill processing or unraveled from raw (undyed) yarn or fabric.  
1.2 This test method requires the use of an integrated instrument, for example, the Cottonscope (see Fig. 1), that measures the maturity, fineness, ribbon width, and micronaire of cotton fiber.2
FIG. 1 Cottonscope Instrument
Note 1: For another test method to determine the maturity of cotton fibers, refer to Test Method D1442.  
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. No other units of measurement are included in this standard.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D6961/D6961M-09(2021)(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Color Measurement of Flax Fiber

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Few standards exist to objectively judge flax quality. Color is an important factor in the quality of flax fiber. Natural variations in raw flax fiber, various processing steps, fiber blending, and a wide range of end uses contribute to the need for a standard method of objectively measuring the color of flax fiber. Spectrophotometic data provide an accurate, precise determination of the color of flax fiber. Colorimetric data are obtained through specimen measurement by combining specimen spectral data with data representing a CIE standard observer and a CIE standard illuminant, as described in Practice E308.  
5.2 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two (or more) laboratories, comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that fiber sample type must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the instrumental color measurement of flax fiber.  
1.2 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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