ASTM D2816-05(2009)

This document is not anASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of anASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:D2816–95 (Reapproved 2001) Designation: D 2816 – 05 (Reapproved 2009)
Standard Test Method for
Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2816; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1This1.1 This test method covers a sequential procedure for determining whether or not the cashmere coarse-hair content of
a sample exceeds a specified value.
NOTE 1—For the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere, refer to Specification D 2817.
NOTE 2—For the quantitative analysis of cashmere hair and blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, refer to Test Methods D 629.
1.2 This test method is applicable only to cashmere hair in the form of roving, yarn, or fabric, and to the cashmere hair content
of blends with other fibers, where the expected cashmere coarse-hair content is not more than five mass percent (see Footnote C
of Table 1). For greater expected mass percentages of cashmere coarse-hair, see Test Methods D 629.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials Terminology Relating to Textiles
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
D 2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by Microprojection
D 2817 Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere Specification for Maximum Cashmere
Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
D 4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
3. Terminology
3.1Definitions—For definitions of textile terms used in this test method, refer to Terminology D123
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.13, Wool and Wool Felt, refer to Terminology D 4845.
3.2Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair or products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair content
not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by length.
3.2.2cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cashmere hair having widths greater than 30 µm.
3.2.2.1Discussion—For the purpose of this test method, width shall be determined as directed in Test Method D2130
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this test method: cashmere, cashmere coarse hair, cashmere coarse hair content,
cashmere down, cashmere hair.
3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, see Terminology D 123.
3.2.3cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of the cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a
percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers; that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in cashmere
hair.
3.2.4cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair having widths of 30 µm or less.
3.2.4.1Discussion—For the purpose of this test method, width shall be determined as directed in Test Method D2130.
3.2.5cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of goat (Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cashmere
goat.
3.2.5.1Discussion—Characteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down (undercoat) fibers and coarse (outer-coat) fibers.
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsiblity of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.
Current edition approved Sept. 10, 1995. Published December 1995. Originally published as D2816–69 T. Last previous edition D2816–91.on Wool and Felt.
Current edition approved July 1, 2009. Published August 2009. Originally approved in 1969. Last previous edition approved in 2005 as D 2816 – 05.
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
, Vol 07.01.volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 2816 – 05 (2009)
A
TABLE 1 Sequential Accept-Reject Numbers for Selected Specifications
B
Specification, Length %
Number of Fi-
0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1.0
bers Counted
A R AR ARA R A R A R A R A R A R
C
1 000 . 17 . 18 . 19 . 20 . 21 . 22 . 23 . 24 . 25
2 000 . 19 . 21 . 23 . 25 . 27 . 29 1 31 3 33 5 35
3 000 . 21 . 24 . 27 0 30 3 33 6 36 9 39 12 42 15 45
4 000 . 23 . 27 1 31 5 35 9 39 13 43 17 47 21 51 25 55
5 000 . 25 0 30 5 35 10 40 15 45 20 50 25 55 30 60 35 65
6 000 . 27 3 33 9 39 15 45 21 51 27 57 33 63 39 69 45 75
7 000 . 29 6 36 13 43 20 50 27 57 34 64 41 71 48 77 55 85
8 000 1 31 9 39 17 47 25 55 33 63 41 71 49 79 57 86 65 95
9000 3 331242 215130 60 39 69 48 78 57 87 66 95 75 105
10 000 5 35 15 45 25 55 35 65 45 75 55 85 65 95 75 104 85 115
A
These accept-reject numbers are based on the following conditions:
(1) The probability of accepting a lot that exceeds the specifications by 10 % or more of the specification percent is 0.05.
(2) The probability of rejecting a lot that is 10 % or more of the specification percent below the specification is also 0.05.
B
Extensive interlaboratory tests have shown that, for the concentration of cashmere coarse-hair covered in Table 1, the relationship between “Specification, Length
Percent” and mass percent of cashmere coarse-hair is approximately linear, as shown in (Eq 1):
M 5 3S 1 0.9 (1)
where:
M = mass percent of cashmere coarse-hair, and
S = specified maximum coarse-hair content in length percent (0.2# S# 1.0).
The data from these studies are on file with the Secretary of Subcommittee D13.13, Committee D13 of ASTM.
C
Blanks correspond to a theoretical number less than zero. No decision to accept can be made until a number of fibers corresponding to the first nonblank entry has
been classified.
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 One thousand (or more) individual fibers of cashmere hair are examined microscopically and classified either as cashmere
down or cashmere coarse-hair on the basis of fiber width.
4.2 The procedure (6.17.1 and 6.2)7.2) for classifying a fiber as cashmere coarse-hair or cashmere requires microscopic
examination of fiber segments of fixed length. The number of fiber segments of each width category is proportional to the total
length of the fibers in each category. Hence, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in cashmere hair is equal to the
percentage by number of cashmere coarse-hair segments as determined by this procedure.
4.3 The observed number of cashmere coarse-hair fibers is compared with
...