ASTM D3990-12

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Designation: D3990 − 12
StandardTerminology Relating to
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Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
bias—See skew.
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
2. Terminology
2.1 Definitions:
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
mark)
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
fabric. (See also double bow)
apron mark—See decating mark.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
bow, double—See double bow.
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
box mark—See shuttle mark.
balling up—See fuzz ball.
break-out—See smash.
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continu-
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
ous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven
due to yarn breakage.
fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare
warp streak, mixed filling)
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
broken pick, n—in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
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bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
General.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
Current edition approved July 1, 2012. Published August 2012. Originally
approved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990 in
bunch—See slug.
1981. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D3990 – 99 (2008). DOI:
10.1520/D3990-12. chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
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D3990 − 12
clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
pin mark.)
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
heavy end) (Compare fine end)
coarse filling—See coarse pick.
coarse pick, n—in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
filling)
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
crowsfeet, n—in fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees of
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
intensity, size, and shape.
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
DISCUSSION—Crowsfeet may occur during wet processing and on
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
finished goods after folding.
(Compare color staining.)
curl—See kink.
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
curled selvage, n—self-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,
(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar
turned-over edge)
liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material
cut pick—See broken pick.
not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact
with other dyed material from which color is transferred by cut selvage, n—cuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only.
(Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)
bleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleed-
ing)
damaged selvage—See cut selvage.
corded selvage—See loopy selvage. dead cotton, n—a small nep of cotton fibers which is gathered
crack mark, n—an open place causing a streak of variable on the surface of the fabric and which is different in color
length approximately parallel to the length or width. (Syn
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