ASTM D1244-98(2020)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D1244 − 98 (Reapproved 2020)
Standard Practice for
Designation of Yarn Construction
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1244; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
INTRODUCTION
This practice conforms in general with the practices adopted by the International Organization for
Standardization in Document ISO 1139, Designation of Yarns. The ISO document, however, covers
the use of the tex direct yarn numbering system only, whereasASTM Practice D1244, as in previous
texts, also covers other direct yarn numbering systems and traditional indirect yarn numbering
systems.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
1.1 This practice covers instructions for the designation of 2.1 ASTM Standards:
yarnconstructionandisapplicabletosingleyarns,pliedyarns, D123Terminology Relating to Textiles
and cabled yarns or cords of filaments or spun fibers. The D861PracticeforUseoftheTexSystemtoDesignateLinear
application of the practice to specific cases is illustrated with Density of Fibers, Yarn Intermediates, and Yarns
examples. This practice does not cover the description of D4849Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
novelty yarns or core spun yarns of various types. 2.2 ISO Standard:
ISO 1139Designation of Yarns
1.2 The primary purpose of this practice is to establish a
reference system for use in the trade and particularly for use in
3. Terminology
correspondence and publications. To secure a simplified
3.1 For terminology related to yarn test methods see Termi-
notation, certain portions may be omitted provided there is no
nology D4849.
doubt as to the omitted parts.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
1.3 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded
resultant yarn number.
asstandard.Nootherunitsofmeasurementareincludedinthis
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms related to textiles,
standard.
refer to Terminology D123.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
4. Explanation of Abbreviations and Symbols
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
4.1 B—A symbol designating the resultant yarn number of
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
bulked yarns, to be placed before the numerical value.
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4.2 R—A symbol designating the resultant yarn number of
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
plied or cabled yarns, to be placed before the numerical value.
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
4.3 ×—The multiplication symbol is used before the num-
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
ber of identical component strands combined in any stage of
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
manufacture for yarns numbered in a direct yarn numbering
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
system.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2020. Published February 2020. Originally the ASTM website.
approvedin1952.Lastpreviouseditionapprovedin2011asD1244–98(2011).DOI: Available fromAmerican National Standards Institute (ANSI), 25 W. 43rd St.,
10.1520/D1244-98R20. 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036, http://www.ansi.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D1244 − 98 (2020)
4.4 +—The plus sign is used to denote the addition or technology. The single-to-ply notation meets the needs of yarn
combination of dissimilar component strands in a more com- manufacturers to describe a single yarn, or a plied or cabled
plex structure. yarnprimarilyintermsofitsmanufacturingspecifications.The
ply-to-single notation, based on the resultant yarn number,
4.5 /—When used with direct yarn numbers, the solidus
meets the needs of users of yarn who have relatively little
denotes the separation of a structure numbered in a direct yarn
interest in the linear density or twist of the single yarn
numbering system into its component strands.When used with
component(s) but are interested mainly in the final product.
indirect yarn numbers, the solidus denotes combining (plying)
The chief difference between the two notations is the order in
of identical component strands, numbered in an indirect yarn
which the information is presented. In this practice the same
numbering system. See also Note 2.
symbols are used for both notations and retain their usual
4.6 f—Anabbreviationforfilaments,tobeplacedbeforethe
mathematical meanings.
number of filaments.
6.2 The single-to-ply notation is prescribed for yarns num-
4.7 t0—Symbol indicating zero twist in a yarn.
bered in both direct and indirect yarn numbering systems and
4.8 tpi—An abbreviation for turns of twist per inch in a conforms with current usage in large sections of the textile
yarn.
industry. The ply-to-single notation is prescribed for yarns
numbered in a direct yarn numbering system and its use is
4.9 tpm—An abbreviation for turns of twist per metre in a
approved by the ISO/TC 38 in Document N362. This latter
yarn.
notation has not been included previously in Practice D1244.
4.10 ( )—Parentheses are used to enclose information de-
The ply-to-single notation has not been recommended for use
scribing the material from which the yarn is made.
with yarns numbered in indirect yarn numbering systems
4.11 [ ]—Brackets are used to enclose the description of because of possible confusion when symbols are used with
dissimilar components forming a subcomponent of a cabled different meanings in different notations or used in conflict
yarn or cord. with their established mathematical significance.
4.12 { }—Braces are used to enclose the description of
6.3 At first glance, the recommended notation may appear
dissimilar components forming a multiple wound yarn, plied
rather involved, but in actuality it is a concise method for
yarn, cabled yarn, or cord.
describing complex structures. For example, compare the
following description of a yarn: “Acabled yarn or cord with a
4.13 Ne —Abbreviation for cotton count.
c
resultant cotton count of 1.4 and 5 turns per inch of Z twist
4.14 Nw —Abbreviation for worsted count.
w
made from 3 strands of plied yarn with 9 turns per inch of S
4.15 Nwe—Abbreviation for woolen run. twist each plied from 5 strands of 24 cotton count yarn with 15
turns per inch of Z twist and spun from 1 ⁄16 in. staple, graded
4.16 den.—Abbreviation for denier.
strict low middling, and having a Micronaire reading of 4.3”
NOTE 1—Other abbreviations may be found in specific examples or in
with the description of the same yarn stated in Example 23,
trade usage.
24 Ne Z 15 tpi (cotton, 1 ⁄16 in., SLM, 4.3 Micronaire (23)
c
Reading) /5S9tpi/3Z5tpi;R1.4c.c.
5. Summary of Practice
6.4 ASTM recommends (see Practice D861), the general
5.1 The structure of a yarn is described by a group or series
use of the tex universal yarn numbering system.
of groups of logically ordered symbols which describe the
characteristics of a yarn. One group of symbols describes
6.5 The designation of a numbering system, for example,
completely a single yarn or a component of a more complex
cotton count, woolen run, and linen lea, does not restrict the
yarn.Aplied yarn is described by two groups; for example, in
yarn composition to the named fiber. See Example 5.
thesingle-to-plynotation,thefirstgroupdescribesthestructure
6.6 The terms used to designate different yarn numbering
of the single yarn or yarns, and the second group describes the
systems are frequently abbreviated. See 4.13 – 4.16.
structure of the plied yarn. The groups are connected with
appropriate symbols. Other yarns are described similarly.
6.7 The various yarn numbering units (cotton count, tex,
etc.)shouldbecarefullydistinguishedfromthepropertywhich
5.2 Two orders of notation are presented for direct yarn
has been designated as linear density.This last term covers the
numbering systems, single-to-ply and ply-to-single. For indi-
conceptofsizeorfineness.Thedistinctioniscomparabletothe
rect yarn numbering systems, only the traditional single-to-ply
use of the units, (litres or gallons), to express a property such
notation is presented.
as the volume of an object.
NOTE 2—Alternative names for the single-to-ply and ply-to-single
notation are single-to-fold and fold-to-single, used in ISO/TC 38 Docu-
7. Designation of Single Yarns, Direct and Indirect Yarn
ment N362, and single-to-resultant and resultant-to-single. The resultant-
to-single term is particularly applicable to the description of cabled yarns Numbering Systems
and to single yarns that have been bulked or given added twist. See also
7.1 Spun Yarns—To describe the structure of spun yarns,
7.3.2, 7.3.3, and Note 3.
state (1) the yarn number and the numbering system used, (2)
6. Significance and Use
the direction of twist, and (3) the amount of twist. Express the
6.1 The two orders of notation are presented to satisfy two amount of twist in turns per inch (tpi) or turns per metre (tpm).
separateneedsencounteredinthetextileindustryandintextile Showtheyarnnumberobservedwhentheyarnistwistedtothe
D1244 − 98 (2020)
extent specified. When known and needed, indicate in paren- designation. Give the yarn number after bulking preceeded by
theses the type of fiber, the average linear density of the fibers, the letter B. Place a semicolon before the B.
the length of the fibers, and other pertinent information with
Example:
70 den. f34 t0 (nylon, 2.07 den.); B80 den. (14)
respect to fiber characteristics. If the single yarn has been spun
from two or more fiber types, note the nominal percentages of
7.3.3.1 Where the degree of bulking is not known or only
each fiber.
thebulkedyarnnumberisneeded,statethefinalorbulkedyarn
Examples: number preceded by the letter B and include at the end
25 tex Z 15 tpi (cotton) (1)
information about the original yarn if it is available.
24 Ne Z 15 tpi (cotton, 1 ⁄16 in., SLM, 4.3 Micronaire
c
Example:
Reading) (2)
9 B80 den. f34 t0 (nylon, 2.07 den.); 70 den. (15)
24 Ne Z 15 tpi (rayon, 1.5 den., 1 ⁄16 in. staple) (3)
c
35 Ne Z 381 tpm (80 % wool, 58’s and 20 % dull acetate
w
NOTE 3—Paragraphs 7.3.2.1, 7.3.3.1, and Examples 13 and 15 are
3 den., 3 in. staple) (4)
presented in this place for convenience. They do not represent the use of
20NweZ55tpi(wool) (5)
the single-to-ply notation but are an adaptation to a special single yarn of
See 13.1, Example 2a, for a simplified notation of Example
the notation based on resultant yarn number (ply-to-single notation),
2. presented more fully in Sections 11 and 12. In these special yarns, the
linear density of the single yarn has been increased by the insertion of
7.2 The use of traditional and tex yarn numbers as recom-
additional twist or by bulking, instead of by a plying operation. See Note
2.
mended by ISO for use during stages 1, 2, and 3 of transition
to the tex system is shown in Examples 6, 7, and 8. Only one
8. Designation of Plied Yarns, Single-to-Ply Notation,
numberhasbeenshowninlaterexamplesofthisrecommended
Direct and Indirect Yarn Numbering Systems
practice to avoid confusion in the illustrations (examples).
8.1 Use two groups of data to describe the yarn structure.
Examples:
30 Ne (20 tex) Z 15 tpi (spun rayon) (6)
c
Describe the single yarn components in the first group as
20 tex (30 c.c.) Z 15 tpi (spun rayon) (7)
directed in 7.1 or 7.3. In the second group, describe the ply
20 tex Z15 tpi (spun rayon) (8)
yarn, stating (1) the number of single yarn components in the
7.3 Filament Single Yarns—Describe the yarn structure as
plied yarn, (2) the direction of plying twist, and (3) the amount
directed in 7.1 for spun yarns but insert a notation showing the
of plying twist. State the resultant yarn number, if required, as
number of filaments following the yarn number. Designate this
additional information following the second group, but sepa-
information with the letter f followed by the number of
rate it from the second group with a semicolon. Report the
component filaments. Designate monofilaments as f1. Write
experimentally determined yarn number only, not a calculated
fractional twists in decimal form. State the yarn number
number.
obtained with the manufacturer’s twist.
8.2 Plied Yarns Having Identical Components—Provide the
Examples:
information as directed in 8.1. Connect the first and second
11 tex f40 S 2.5 tpi (nylon 2.75 dtex) (9)
groupswithamultiplicationsign(×)foryarnnumbersindirect
See13.1,Example9aforasimplifiednotationofExample9.
yarn numbering systems and with a solidus (/) for yarn
7.3.1 Filament Yarn with Zero Twist—Omit the symbols S
numbers in indirect yarn numbering systems.
and Z and include the symbol t0.
Example:
Examples:
25texZ15tpi(cotton)×3S7tpi;R83tex (16)
11 tex f40 t0 (nylon, 2.5 den.) (10)
24 Ne Z15tpi(cotton)/5S9tpi;R4.4Ne (17)
c c
100 den. f34 t0 (polyester) (11)
1650 den. Z 12 tpi (rayon) × 3 S10 tpi (18)
35 Ne Z9tpi(58’swool)/3S4tpi (19)
w
7.3.2 FilamentYarnswithIncreasedTwist—Whentheorigi-
See 13.1, Examples 16a and 17a, for simplified notations of
nal filament yarn is subsequently twisted, the yarn number in
Examples 16 and 17.
the twisted condition (or resultant yarn number) may be
8.3 Plied Yarns Having Dissimilar Components—Write the
appreciably different from the yarn number obtained with
manufacturer’s twist. In such cases, follow the complete designationofthesingleyarnsinsequenceconnectedwithone
description by the resultant number preceded by the letter R. or more plus signs (+). Enclose the group in braces and omit
Place a semicolon before the letter R. the multiplication sign and the solidus.
Example: Example:
1 tex f40 Z50 tpi (rayon, 2.75 dtex); R 12.7 tex (12) {24 Ne Z15 tpi (cotton) + 10 c.c. Z 23 tpi (cotton)} S 8 tpi;
c
R7Ne (20)
c
7.3.2.1 If the yarn number of the original yarn is not known
{11texf40Z50tpi(nylon)+12texf40S3tpi(acetate)}
S 12 tpi; R 24.0
...