SIST EN 16315:2014

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Textilien und textile Erzeugnisse - Gewebe aus Seide für Damenbekleidung, Tücher, Schals und Krawatten - Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenTextiles en soie à destination du prêt-à-porter féminin, - Foulards et écharpes, cravates - Exigences et méthodes d'essaiTextiles - Silk woven fabrics for women’s wears, foulards and scarves, ties - Requirements and test methods59.060.10Naravna vlaknaNatural fibresICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 16315:2014SIST EN 16315:2014en,fr,de01-junij-2014SIST EN 16315:2014SLOVENSKI
STANDARD



SIST EN 16315:2014



EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 16315
March 2014 ICS 59.060.10 English Version
Textiles - Silk woven fabrics for womenswear, silk squares, scarves and ties - Requirements and test methods
Textiles - Tissus en soie destinés aux vêtements féminins, foulards, écharpes et cravates - Exigences et méthodes d'essai
Textilien und textile Erzeugnisse - Gewebe aus Seide für Damenbekleidung, Seidentücher, Schals und Krawatten - Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 6 February 2014.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels © 2014 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 16315:2014 ESIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 2 Contents Page
Foreword .3 1 Scope .4 2 Normative references .4 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Sampling .6 5 Requirements and test methods for silk fabrics .6 6 Specifications for made up articles: silk square, scarves and ties . 12 7 Information provided by the silk fabric producer . 12 Annex A (informative) Denominations . 13 Annex B (normative) Determination of dimensional change of textile fabrics due to relaxation when steamed on steam pressing machines . 14 Bibliography . 18
SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 16315:2014) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products”, the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2014 and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies requirements for 100 % silk woven fabrics for womenswear, and for silk squares, scarves and ties for men and women, with the test methods for their evaluation. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 1049-2, Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 2: Determination of number of threads per unit length (ISO 7211-2:1984 modified) EN 1773, Textiles — Fabrics — Determination of width and length EN 12127, Textiles — Fabrics — Determination of mass per unit area using small samples EN ISO 105-B02, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test (ISO 105-B02:2013) EN ISO 105-C06, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part C06: Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering (ISO 105-C06:2010) EN ISO 105-D01, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part D01: Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchloroethylene solvent (ISO 105-D01:2010) EN ISO 105-E04, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration (ISO 105-E04:2013) EN ISO 105-J03, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part J03: Calculation of colour differences (ISO 105-J03:2009) EN ISO 105-X11, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part X11: Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11:1994) EN ISO 105-X12, Textiles — Tests for colour fastness — Part X12: Color fastness to rubbing (ISO 105-X12:2001) EN ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139:2005) EN ISO 3175-1, Textiles — Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments — Part 1: Assessment of performance after cleaning and finishing (ISO 3175-1:2010) EN ISO 3175-2, Textiles — Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments — Part 2: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using tetrachloroethene (ISO 3175-2:2010) EN ISO 3175-3, Textiles — Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments — Part 3: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using hydrocarbon solvent (ISO 3175-3:2003) EN ISO 3175-4, Textiles — Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments — Part 4: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using simulated wetcleaning (ISO 3175-4:2003) EN ISO 3759, Textiles — Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determination of dimensional change (ISO 3759:2011) SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 5 EN ISO 5077, Textiles — Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying (ISO 5077:2007) EN ISO 6330, Textiles — Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (ISO 6330:2012) EN ISO 13015, Woven fabrics — Distortion — Determination of skew and bow (ISO 13015:2013) EN ISO 13934-1, Textiles — Tensile properties of fabrics — Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method (ISO 13934-1:2013) EN ISO 13936-1, Textiles — Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in woven fabrics — Part 1: Fixed seam opening method (ISO 13936-1:2004) EN ISO 13937-1, Textiles — Tear properties of fabrics — Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf) (ISO 13937-1:2000) ISO 1144, Textiles — Universal system for designating linear density (Tex System) ISO 7211-1, Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 1: Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting ISO 7211-4, Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 4: Determination of twist in yarn removed from fabric ISO 7211-5, Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 5: Determination of linear density of yarn removed from fabric 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 silk square sewn square shaped article of silk fabric 3.2 scarf sewn rectangular or triangular shaped article of silk fabric 3.3 tie sewn long narrow article of silk fabric 3.4 length of piece distance between piece-ends along the piece of fabric 3.5 total fabric width distance from the outermost yarn of a piece on one edge to the outermost yarn on the other edge, measured perpendicular to the warp direction [SOURCE: EN 1773] 3.6 usable fabric width distance from the outermost yarn of the piece on one edge to the outermost yarn on the other edge excluding the selvedges SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 6 Note 1 to entry: Selvedges may be a woven selvadges, may be made with gauze, may include marks left by any finishing apparatus e.g. stenter pin marks. 3.7 pattern size regularity evenness of the distances, in warp and weft directions, between repeated patterns 3.8 repeated pattern periodical design made by printing, dyeing or weaving, in warp and weft directions 3.9 allover yarn dyed- or printed fabric with continuous pattern 3.10 diagonal yarn-dyed or printed fabric with 45° pattern 3.11 geometric pattern type of printing or weave pattern with geometric design 3.12 edging seaming the edges of silk squares and scarves 3.13 hand-sewn seam made by hand 3.14 colour reference fabric fabric used as reference for colour reproducibility 4 Sampling From each commercial or production lot, take out laboratory samples of a size suitable for the tests to be done from three pieces of fabric or lots of made up articles in a random manner. If the lot consists of fewer than three pieces, samples will be taken from each piece of fabric. Samples shall not present any alterations or visible defects, such as holes, tears, stains, differences in colour. Moreover, samples shall be representative of all colours/patterns in case of colour fastness tests. 5 Requirements and test methods for silk fabrics 5.1 General The requirements specified in this European Standard concern properties that can be evaluated by laboratory tests or sensorial (visual) assessment of the fabric or are defined by tolerances allowed. The properties and relevant test methods considered are as follows: — structural characteristics (5.2); — physico-mechanical characteristics (5.3); SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 7 — colour fastness (5.4); — colour conformity (5.5); 5.2 Structural characteristics 5.2.1 Fabric construction Fabric construction testing shall be carried out according to ISO 7211-1. The fabric construction shall correspond to that specified in the contract. 5.2.2 Mass per unit area Mass per unit area shall be carried out according to EN 12127. In any case, the tolerance allowed on the declared value is ± 5 % The articles falling within the scope of this standard can be classified into following categories as given in Table 1: Table 1 — Mass per unit area Category Womenswear Silk square and scarves Ties A mass ≤ 4M gim2 mass ≤ 4M gim2 5M 40 g/m2 mass > 100 g/m2 C 8M 160 g/m2 - - NOTE Usual commercial denomination of each category is given in Table A.1. 5.2.3 Width and length of piece 5.2.3.1 Length of piece The length of piece shall be carried out according to EN 1773. The tolerance allowed on the declared length of each piece is ± 2 % 5.2.3.2 Fabric width and usable fabric width Fabric width shall be carried out according to EN 1773. The tolerance allowed on the declared total or usable fabric width is -1 %; + 2 %. If the declared width corresponds to the minimum guaranteed width, no negative tolerance is allowed on the agreed value. 5.2.3.3 Pattern size regularity Pattern size regularity shall be carried out according to EN 1773. The tolerances allowed on the pattern dimensions, as declared, are as follows: a) Yarn-dyed fabrics SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 8 — Allover ± 4 % — Diagonal (45°) and repeated patterns ± 2 % b) Printed fabrics — Allover ± 3 % — Diagonal (45°) and repeated patterns ± 2 % 5.2.4 Threads per unit length Thread density shall be carried out according to EN 1049-2. The tolerance allowed on the declared value, expressed as threads/cm in warp and weft directions, is ± 2 % with a minimum of one thread/cm. 5.2.5 Linear density and twist of yarn removed from fabric Linear density and twist of yarn removed from the fabric shall be carried out according to ISO 7211-4 and ISO 7211-5. The results of the measurement of linear density and twist shall be related to the corresponding values for the same fabric in the raw state. The tolerance allowed on the declared nominal yarn linear density (related to the raw fabric) on an average basis is ± 7 % for a yarn linear density between 22,2 and 24,4 dtex (corresponding to 20-22 deniers as defined in ISO 1144). The tolerances allowed on declared nominal twist values are shown in Table 2: Table 2 — Twist tolerances Twist range Tolerance allowed (*) Twist ≤ 15M ± 10 turns/m or 15 % 15M 700 ± 50 turns/m or 5 % (*) The higher tolerance between absolute and relative values shall be applied. NOTE Usual commercial yarn denominations of each category are given in Table A.2. 5.3 Physical characteristics 5.3.1 Tensile properties – maximum force (strip method) Tensile properties shall be carried out according to EN ISO 13934-1. Depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric, as given in Table 1, the minimum acceptable values are given in Table 3: SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 9 Table 3 — Tensile properties
Category Womenswear Silk square and scarves Ties A > 150 N > 100 N > 250 N B > 250 N > 200 N > 300 N C > 300 N - - D > 450 N - - 5.3.2 Tear properties for womenswear fabrics – Tear force (ballistic pendulum method) Tear properties shall be carried out according to EN ISO 13937-1 only on womenswear fabric. Depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric, as given in Table 1, the minimum acceptable values are given in Table 4: Table 4 — Tear properties Category Womenswear A > 5 N B > 7 N C > 8 N D > 10 N 5.3.3 Seam slippage resistance Slippage resistance of yarns at a seam shall be carried out according to EN ISO 13936-1 only on womenswear and tie fabrics. The result is expressed as the force (N) required producing a 6 mm yarn slippage at a standardised seam. Depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric, as given in Table 1, the minimum acceptable values are given in Table 5. Table 5 — Seam slippage resistance Category Womenswear Ties A > 60 N > 80 N B > 80 N > 100 N C > 110 N
D > 130 N
5.3.4 Skew distortion (angular displacement of weft yarns) Skew distortion (local) shall be carried out according to EN ISO 13015. Depending on the mass per unit area, as given in Table 1, and the pattern, the values of the skew distortion are given in Table 6: SIST EN 16315:2014



EN 16315:2014 (E) 10 Table 6 — Skew distortion Category Womenswear Foulards and scarves Ties A < 4 % < 1,5% - B < 4 % < 1,5% - C < 4 % - - D < 2,5 % - - Dyed fabrics See above - < 2 % Printed fabrics < 1,5 % - < 2,5 % Geometric pattern < 1,5 % - < 1,5 % 5.3.5 Dimensional change following steaming on pressing machines for womenswear fabrics Dimensional change following steaming on pressing machines shall be carried out according to the reference test method given in Annex B. The test applies only to womenswear fabrics. The maximum dimensional change allowed for fabrics subjected to steaming on pressing machines is given in Table 7: Table 7 — Dimensional change for fabric following steaming Yarn twist Turns/m Womenswear ≤ TMM ±3 % > 700 ±4 % 5.3.6 Dimensional change because of cleaning treatments The test conditions shall be chosen and applied according to the method of cleaning prescribed for the fabric. The test methods used are as follows: — EN ISO 5077; — EN ISO 3175, Parts 1 to 4 (procedure for sensitive materials as described in Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4); — EN ISO 3759; — EN ISO 6330, (2012) Washing cycle: simulated hand washing and drying procedure C: flat drying or procedure E: flat press. The maximum tolerances allowed for the dimensional change because of cleaning treatments are given in Table 8: Table 8 — Dimensi
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