EN 569:2007

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-julij-2007
1DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 569:1998
Gorniška oprema – Klini – Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Pitons - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Felshaken - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Pitons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 569:2007
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 569
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
February 2007
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 569:1997
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Pitons - Safety requirements and
test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Pitons - Exigences Bergsteigerausrüstung - Felshaken - Sicherheitstechnische
de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 January 2007.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as the
official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,
France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,
Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36  B-1050 Brussels
© 2007 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 569:2007: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
Foreword.3
Introduction .4
1 Scope.5
2 Terms and definitions .5
3 Safety requirements.5
3.1 Design.5
3.2 Breaking force.6
4 Test method.6
4.1 Examination of design .6
4.2 Determination of breaking force .7
4.2.1 Test samples.7
4.2.2 Test conditions.7
4.2.3 Apparatus.7
4.2.4 Preparation and positioning of test samples.8
4.2.5 Procedure.8
5 Marking.9
6 Information supplied by the manufacturer .9
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment.10
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard an the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.11

Foreword
This document (EN 569:2007) has been prepared by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical
text or by endorsement, at the latest by August 2007, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at
the latest by August 2007.
This document supersedes EN 569:1997.
This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission
and the European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this European
Standard.
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech
Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia,
Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain,
Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.

Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard R (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme), which has been developed with international participation.
This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.

1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for pitons for use in mountaineering
including climbing.
2 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
2.1
piton
device which, when inserted into a rock crack by means of a hammer or equivalent device, provides an
anchor
NOTE Two parts can normally be identified in the piton: the head and the blade.
2.2
head
part of the piton which contains the attachment point eye (or eyes) used for connection to the rope (via a
connector) and which is usually the part struck when inserting the piton
2.3
blade
part of the piton which is inserted into the rock crack
2.4
length of the piton
length of the blade measured in the direction of its insertion into the crack
2.5
pulling shackle
tool used to apply the force in the test
2.6
safety piton
piton which exhibits a high breaking force (see Table 1) and having a length of at least 90 mm
2.7
progression piton
piton with a lower breaking force than safety pitons (see Table 1)
3 Safety requirements
3.1 Design
3.1.1 The eye shall be at least 3 mm thick (see Figure 1).
3.1.2 The internal edges of the eye shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or larger than
0,2 mm × 45°. See a) in Figure 1.
EN
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