EN 568:2015
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Verankerungsmittel im Eis fest, d. h. für Eisschrauben und Eishaken, die beim Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwendet werden.
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Broches à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai
La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai qui s’appliquent aux broches à glace, c’est-à-dire aux broches à glace à visser et aux broches à glace à frapper, utilisées en alpinisme et en escalade.
Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za ledne vijake, tj. ledne vijake in ledne kline, za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem.
General Information
- Status
- Published
- Publication Date
- 17-Nov-2015
- Withdrawal Date
- 30-May-2016
- Technical Committee
- CEN/TC 136 - Sports, playground and other recreational equipment
- Drafting Committee
- CEN/TC 136/WG 5 - Mountaineering and climbing equipment
- Current Stage
- 9092 - Decision on results of review/2YR ENQ - revise - Review Enquiry
- Start Date
- 05-Jun-2021
- Completion Date
- 14-Apr-2025
Relations
- Effective Date
- 10-Apr-2013
- Effective Date
- 18-Oct-2023
Overview - EN 568:2015 (CEN)
EN 568:2015 is the European standard that sets safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors used in mountaineering and climbing - specifically ice screws and ice pitons. Prepared by CEN/TC 136, the standard defines design criteria, mechanical performance (holding strength, screwability, resistance to hammering), test block preparation, test apparatus and procedures, marking and required manufacturer information. The text is based on the former UIAA Q "ice anchors" and supports essential requirements of relevant EU directives.
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope: Applies to ice anchors (ice screws and ice pitons) for mountaineering and climbing.
- Design: Ice screws and pitons must have cylindrical or semi‑cylindrical bodies with an eye for a connector; edges and attachment points must be free from burrs and have minimum radii/chamfers.
- Mechanical performance
- Radial holding strength: minimum 10 kN (test in radial direction).
- Axial holding strength: minimum 5 kN (test in axial direction).
- Screwability: after up to 10 full rotations the next rotation must advance by one thread pitch.
- Resistance to hammering (ice pitons): must withstand guided hammer impacts without safety‑affecting deformation; the impact area must remain usable.
- Test methods
- Defines sample sizes, apparatus (ice container dimensions, guided falling mass, screw‑holding device) and procedures.
- Ice block types: Type 1 (potable water frozen at –10 ±1 °C) and Type 2 (layered ice grains frozen at –8 ±2 °C with pre‑loading). Type 2 may be substituted by cellular concrete (density ~500 kg/m³, compressive strength ~4 MPa) under specified conditions.
- Test temperatures, loading rates and placement angles are specified for repeatable lab verification.
- Marking & manufacturer information
- Must include manufacturer name/address, model identifier, ISO graphical symbol to read instructions, and year on non‑metallic load elements.
- Manufacturers must supply instructions on selection, placement, extraction, maintenance, lifespan, storage and competency recommendations.
Applications - who uses EN 568:2015
- Manufacturers of ice screws and pitons for product design, QA and CE conformity.
- Test laboratories and certification bodies performing mechanical and environmental testing.
- Procurement officers for alpine clubs, guides and rescue services specifying compliant equipment.
- Trainers and technical guides who need to understand limits, inspection and safe use guidance.
- Regulators and standards committees referencing EU directive conformity (see Annex ZA).
Related standards
- EN 566 (Slings - safety requirements and test methods) is normatively referenced.
- Annex A lists other mountaineering equipment standards; EN 568 is part of the broader CEN package for mountaineering safety.
Keywords: EN 568:2015, ice anchors, ice screws, ice pitons, mountaineering equipment, safety requirements, test methods, holding strength, screwability, CEN.
Frequently Asked Questions
EN 568:2015 is a standard published by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Its full title is "Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods". This standard covers: This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
EN 568:2015 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
EN 568:2015 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to EN 568:2007, prEN 568. Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
EN 568:2015 is associated with the following European legislation: EU Directives/Regulations: 2016/425, 89/686/EEC; Standardization Mandates: M/031. When a standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union, products manufactured in conformity with it benefit from a presumption of conformity with the essential requirements of the corresponding EU directive or regulation.
EN 568:2015 is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.
Standards Content (Sample)
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Broches à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 568:2015SIST EN 568:2016en,fr,de01-januar-2016SIST EN 568:2016SLOVENSKI
STANDARDSIST EN 568:20081DGRPHãþD
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 568
November
t r s w ICS
{ yä t t rä v r Supersedes EN
w x zã t r r yEnglish Version
Mountaineering equipment æ Ice anchors æ Safety requirements and test methods Équipement d 5alpinisme et d 5escalade æ Broches à glace æ Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d 5essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung æ Verankerungsmittel im Eis æ Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on
t x September
t r s wä
egulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alterationä Upætoædate lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CENæCENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN memberä
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CENæCENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versionsä
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austriaá Belgiumá Bulgariaá Croatiaá Cyprusá Czech Republicá Denmarká Estoniaá Finlandá Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedoniaá Franceá Germanyá Greeceá Hungaryá Icelandá Irelandá Italyá Latviaá Lithuaniaá Luxembourgá Maltaá Netherlandsá Norwayá Polandá Portugalá Romaniaá Slovakiaá Sloveniaá Spainá Swedená Switzerlandá Turkey andUnited Kingdomä
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels
t r s w CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Membersä Refä Noä EN
w x zã t r s w ESIST EN 568:2016
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. 14 Bibliography . 15
Figure 1 — Placement length, l 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Ice screws shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body with thread. At the screw head, there is an eye into which a connector can be clipped. Ice pitons shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body and have an eye into which a connector can be clipped. SIST EN 568:2016
a) b) Figure 2 — Attachment point eye dimensions 4.1.3 When tested according to 5.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. See b) in Figure 2. 4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.1, ice pitons shall not show any deformation likely to affect safety, e.g. cracks or separation of components. The impact area of the head shall remain sufficiently intact so as to allow further hammering. NOTE Deformation due to hammering, as occurs with chisels, is not considered detrimental. If the ice anchor has a sling for attachment, which is removable without tools, the sling shall conform to EN 566. 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2 after a maximum of 10 full rotations of the ice screw the penetration of the following rotation shall be equal to the pitch of the thread of the ice screw. 4.4 Holding strength 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3.1, anchors shall withstand a force of at least 10 kN in the radial direction, without being pulled out of the ice or breaking. Permanent deformation during the test is permitted. 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction When tested in the axial direction in accordance with 5.2.4.3.2, ice anchors shall withstand a force of at least 5 kN without the hanger breaking or becoming detached. All test samples shall meet the requirement. SIST EN 568:2016
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