EN 13089:2011+A3:2023

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-julij-2023
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode (z
dopolnili do vključno A3)
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 13089:2011+A3:2023
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EN 13089:2011+A3
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
April 2023
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:2011+A2:2021
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 17 October 2021 and includes Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21
December 2022.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Edges . 6
4.2 Shaft strength . 6
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY. 6
4.4 Strength in the load direction XX . 6
4.5 Pick strength . 7
5 Test methods . 7
5.1 Preparation of test samples . 7
5.2 Apparatus . 7
5.3 Procedure. 7
5.3.1 Test sample . 7
5.3.2 Edges . 8
5.3.3 Shaft strength . 8
5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY. 9
5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX . 9
5.3.6 Pick strength . 10
6 Marking . 11
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13
Annex ZA (informative) #Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 14

European foreword
This document (EN 13089:2011+A3:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136
“Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by
DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2023, and conflicting national standards shall
be withdrawn at the latest by October 2023.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes %EN 13089:2011+A2:2021&.
This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 19 March 2015, Amendment 2 approved by
CEN on 17 October 2021 and Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21 December 2022.
The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !",
#$ and %&.
This document has been prepared under a standardization request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Directive(s) / Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s) /Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral
part of this document.
In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been
made:
a) an editorial revision has been carried on;
b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls;
c) there is a new classification of ice-tools;
d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted;
e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised;
f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted;
g) there is an additional marking.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,
Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of
North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the
United Kingdom.
Introduction
This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations"
d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation.
This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering
including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
%EN 565:2017, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods&
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
ice-tool
hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an
anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.2
type 1 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.3
type 2 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
3.4
type 1 pick
pick intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.5
type 2 pick
pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
Key
1 Shaft of the ice-tool
2 Pick of the ice-tool
Figure 1 — Main parts of an ice-tool
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Edges
All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The
shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges.
4.2 Shaft strength
When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation
at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated f value.
K
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY
When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4,
a) the test sample shall not break;
b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose.
4.4 Strength in the load direction XX
When tested in the load direction XX (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.5,
a) the shaft shall not break;
b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose;
c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 10 mm after re-
moval of the load.
Key
1 Pick
2 Shaft
XX/YY Load directions
Figure 2 — Load directions XX and YY
4.5 Pick strength
When tested in accordance with 5.3.6,
a) the test sample shall not break;
b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose;
c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force shall not exceed 70 mm or the
calculated f value after removal of the force.
K
5 Test methods
5.1 Preparation of test samples
For the strength tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 the test samples shall be conditioned for at least 1 h at (– 30 ± 5) °C.
The tests shall be carried out at (23 ± 5) °C. Each test shall begin within 3 min from removal from condi-
tioning.
5.2 Apparatus
For the tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 use a tape in accordance with %EN 565:2017& with a width of
(15 ± 2) mm.
5.3 Procedure
5.3.1 Test sample
Carry out each test on a test sample not previously subjected to any load.
5.3.2 Edges
Check by visual and tactile examination that the requirements of 4.1 are met.
5.3.3 Shaft strength
Support the shaft horizontally and load it in the direction XX as shown in Figure 3.
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
1 Tape
Figure 3 — Testing of shaft strength
If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange the tapes as shown in Figure 3 with the load applied at the mid
length of the ice-tool.
+125
Apply a force of F = (2 500 ) N without shock and maintain for (60 ± 5) s.
If the ice tool is not long enough, reduce the 250 mm to “l ”. l shall be as long as possible in reducing
k k
steps of 10 mm. Then calculate the force F to be applied as follows:
k
F = F × 250/l (1)
k k
Calculate the maximum permissible permanent deformation f in mm as follows:
k
f = 3 × (l /250) (2)
k k
where
l is the distance in mm from the middle of the shaft to the middle of the outer tapes, being
k
positioned at the ends of the shaft.
During the test, according to the shape of the shaft, the ice-tool may turn. If so, carry out the test in the
stable position attained after rotation. For a straight shaft, rotation shall be prevented.
If the ice-tool is fitted with a telescopic shaft, ca
...