EN 13089:2011+A3:2023
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Eisgeräte fest, die beim Bergsteigen, einschließlich Klettern, verwendet werden und als vergrabener Ankerpunkt zum Schutz gegen Absturz dienen.
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Le présent document spécifie des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d’essai relatives aux outils à glace utilisés dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade, ainsi que comme point d’ancrage enfoui dans la neige pour la protection contre les chutes.
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode (z dopolnili do vključno A3)
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za orodje za led za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem, in kot vkopano sidro za zaščito pred padci.
General Information
- Status
- Published
- Publication Date
- 18-Apr-2023
- Technical Committee
- CEN/TC 136 - Sports, playground and other recreational equipment
- Drafting Committee
- CEN/TC 136/WG 5 - Mountaineering and climbing equipment
- Current Stage
- 6060 - Definitive text made available (DAV) - Publishing
- Start Date
- 19-Apr-2023
- Completion Date
- 19-Apr-2023
Relations
- Merged From
EN 13089:2011+A2:2021 - Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods - Effective Date
- 15-Feb-2023
Overview - EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 (Ice-tools, safety requirements and test methods)
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is the CEN European Standard for mountaineering equipment - specifically ice-tools used for movement on snow, ice and rock and for use as a buried anchor to protect against falls. The document defines safety requirements, classification (type 1 / type 2), mandatory marking and the test methods manufacturers and test laboratories must use to verify strength and durability. It also supports essential requirements of EU legislation (see Annex ZA).
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope and definitions
- Covers hand‑held ice-tools comprising at least a shaft and a pick.
- Defines type 1 (for snow/ice) and type 2 (for rock, snow and/or ice) tools and picks.
- Mechanical safety requirements
- Edges: all user-contacting edges must be free of burrs and sharpness.
- Shaft strength: permanent deformation after a defined load must not exceed 3 mm (or a scaled value f) when tested per clause 5.3.3.
- Strength in load directions YY and XX: specified static forces must not cause breakage or components to work loose; permanent deformation limits are given (e.g., 10 mm limit in XX).
- Pick strength: tested as a bending moment with maximum permissible permanent deformation (70 mm or a calculated value).
- Test methods
- Conditioning of test samples at (–30 ± 5) °C for at least 1 hour; tests performed at (23 ± 5) °C and started within 3 minutes of removal.
- Test duration and loading: loads applied without shock and maintained for (60 ± 5) s.
- Example test loads: shaft baseline load F = 2 500 N (scaled for short samples); YY loads ~600 N (type 1) / 900 N (type 2); XX ~2 500 N (type 1) / 4 000 N (type 2); pick moments ~42 Nm (type 1) / 60 Nm (type 2) with a 330 mm lever (scaled if shorter).
- Marking and user information
- Mandatory durable marking of manufacturer, category marking (a circled “T” for type 2 where required), and a pictogram directing users to supplied information.
- Manufacturers must supply an explanatory leaflet including EN 13089 reference, use instructions and meaning of markings.
Applications - who uses EN 13089
- Manufacturers and designers of ice‑tools to ensure products meet EU/CEN safety expectations.
- Test laboratories and conformity assessment bodies to perform standardized mechanical tests and verify compliance.
- Procurement officers and retailers selecting safe, certified mountaineering tools.
- Advanced users, guides and mountain rescue services for understanding product classification, limitations and marking.
Related standards
- EN 565 (tape) is referenced for test apparatus. See Annex A of EN 13089 for the wider package of mountaineering equipment standards and Annex ZA for regulatory relationships.
Frequently Asked Questions
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is a standard published by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Its full title is "Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods". This standard covers: This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to EN 13089:2011+A2:2021. Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is associated with the following European legislation: EU Directives/Regulations: 2016/425; Standardization Mandates: M/571, M/571 AMD 1. When a standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union, products manufactured in conformity with it benefit from a presumption of conformity with the essential requirements of the corresponding EU directive or regulation.
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-julij-2023
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode (z
dopolnili do vključno A3)
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 13089:2011+A3:2023
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
EN 13089:2011+A3
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
April 2023
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:2011+A2:2021
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 17 October 2021 and includes Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21
December 2022.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Edges . 6
4.2 Shaft strength . 6
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY. 6
4.4 Strength in the load direction XX . 6
4.5 Pick strength . 7
5 Test methods . 7
5.1 Preparation of test samples . 7
5.2 Apparatus . 7
5.3 Procedure. 7
5.3.1 Test sample . 7
5.3.2 Edges . 8
5.3.3 Shaft strength . 8
5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY. 9
5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX . 9
5.3.6 Pick strength . 10
6 Marking . 11
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13
Annex ZA (informative) #Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 14
European foreword
This document (EN 13089:2011+A3:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136
“Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by
DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2023, and conflicting national standards shall
be withdrawn at the latest by October 2023.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes %EN 13089:2011+A2:2021&.
This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 19 March 2015, Amendment 2 approved by
CEN on 17 October 2021 and Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21 December 2022.
The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !",
#$ and %&.
This document has been prepared under a standardization request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Directive(s) / Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s) /Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral
part of this document.
In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been
made:
a) an editorial revision has been carried on;
b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls;
c) there is a new classification of ice-tools;
d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted;
e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised;
f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted;
g) there is an additional marking.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,
Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of
North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the
United Kingdom.
Introduction
This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations"
d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation.
This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering
including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
%EN 565:2017, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods&
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
ice-tool
hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an
anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.2
type 1 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.3
type 2 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
3.4
type 1 pick
pick intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.5
type 2 pick
pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
Key
1 Shaft of the ice-tool
2 Pick of the ice-tool
Figure 1 — Main parts of an ice-tool
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Edges
All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The
shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges.
4.2 Shaft strength
When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation
at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated f value.
K
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY
When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4,
a) the
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