EN 12276:2013
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for frictional anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Klemmgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Klemmgeräte fest, die beim Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwendet werden.
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Coinceurs mécaniques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente Norme européenne prescrit des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d’essai relatives aux coinceurs mécaniques utilisés en alpinisme et en escalade.
Gorniška oprema - Torna sidra (metulji) - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za torna sidra (metulje) za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem.
General Information
- Status
- Published
- Publication Date
- 12-Nov-2013
- Withdrawal Date
- 30-May-2014
- Technical Committee
- CEN/TC 136 - Sports, playground and other recreational equipment
- Drafting Committee
- CEN/TC 136/WG 5 - Mountaineering and climbing equipment
- Current Stage
- 9093 - Decision to confirm - Review Enquiry
- Start Date
- 26-Apr-2023
- Completion Date
- 14-Apr-2025
Relations
- Replaces
EN 12276:1998 - Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods - Effective Date
- 20-Nov-2013
- Effective Date
- 20-Nov-2013
Overview
EN 12276:2013 - “Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods” is a European Standard published by CEN that defines safety, design and testing requirements for frictional anchors (also known as mechanical or passive "nuts"/"stoppers") used in mountaineering and climbing. The standard replaces EN 12276:1998 and specifies minimum performance (including holding force and optional passive strength), test apparatus, conditioning and marking/label information manufacturers must supply.
Key Topics
- Scope and definitions
- Applies to frictional anchors placed in parallel-sided rock cracks; key terms include holding force, passive strength and operational range.
- Design requirements
- Anchors must have a suitable means of attachment for a connector (sized to accept a 15 mm pin); stitched or textile attachments must meet visibility and EN 565 requirements.
- All finger-contacting edges must be burr-free.
- Strength requirements
- Holding force must be at least the value marked on the device and never less than 5.0 kN.
- If passive strength is claimed, it must also be at least the marked value and not less than 5.0 kN.
- Test methods and apparatus
- Uses a test rig with two rigid supporting jaws and a loading bar; surface roughness and adjustment positions (s1, s2 or s3) are specified to simulate operational ranges.
- Conditioning per EN ISO 139 and testing at (23 ± 5) °C; textile attachments must be tested within 5 minutes of conditioning.
- Specified loading rates: 20–50 mm/min for non-textile anchors, 50–200 mm/min where textile elements are stressed.
- Marking & manufacturer information
- Devices must be clearly marked with manufacturer, minimum holding force (kN), pictograms for holding/passive strength, a “read manufacturer info” symbol and year of manufacture when non-metallic load-bearing parts are present.
- Manufacturers must supply model/size, bmin/bmax (operational range), maintenance, lifespan guidance, environmental and chemical effects, and recommended system components.
Applications
- Used by mountaineering and climbing equipment manufacturers to design and certify frictional anchors.
- Used by test laboratories and conformity assessors to perform standardized strength and conditioning tests.
- Valuable to retailers, guides and experienced climbers who need to understand marking, operational ranges and the protection a device can provide in various rock and environmental conditions (see Annex A for holding-force guidance).
Related Standards
- EN 565 (Tape), EN 564 (Accessory cord), EN 12275 (Connectors) and other mountaineering standards listed in Annex B. EN 12276:2013 is intended to be used alongside these standards for full product safety and system compatibility.
Keywords: EN 12276:2013, frictional anchors, mountaineering equipment, holding force, passive strength, test methods, safety requirements.
Frequently Asked Questions
EN 12276:2013 is a standard published by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Its full title is "Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods". This standard covers: This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for frictional anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing.
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for frictional anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing.
EN 12276:2013 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
EN 12276:2013 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to EN 12276:1998, EN 12276:1998/AC:2000. Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
EN 12276:2013 is associated with the following European legislation: EU Directives/Regulations: 2016/425, 89/686/EEC; Standardization Mandates: M/031. When a standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union, products manufactured in conformity with it benefit from a presumption of conformity with the essential requirements of the corresponding EU directive or regulation.
EN 12276:2013 is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.
Standards Content (Sample)
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Torna sidra (metulji) - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Klemmgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Coinceurs mécaniques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 12276:2013SIST EN 12276:2013en,fr,de01-december-2013SIST EN 12276:2013SLOVENSKI
STANDARD
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 12276
November 2013 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 12276:1998English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Frictional anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Coinceurs mécaniques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Klemmgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 28 September 2013.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels © 2013 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 12276:2013 ESIST EN 12276:2013
Protection provided by Frictional Anchors . 12 Annex B (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 14 Bibliography . 15
The surface of the loading bar shall have an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of Ra = 0,8 maximal surface roughness of Rmax = 6,3
There are no surface roughness requirements for the loading bar when the means of attachment is other than textile material. 5.2.2 Adjustment The distance s between the supporting jaws shall be according to the following formulae: SIST EN 12276:2013
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