EN 892:2012

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-oktober-2012
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SIST EN 892:2005
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Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and
test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen
und Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 892:2012
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 892
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
August 2012
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:2004
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes -
Safety requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile -
dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 July 2012.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same
status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania,
Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United
Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels
© 2012 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 892:2012: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
Foreword .3
Introduction .4
1 Scope .5
2 Normative references .5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements .7
5 Test methods .8
6 Marking . 24
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 24
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 26
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC Personal Protective Equipment . 27

Foreword
This document (EN 892:2012) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground
and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical
text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2013, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn
at the latest by February 2013.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent
rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes EN 892:2004.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document.
The main changes compared to EN 892:2004 are:
a) editorial changes;
b) conditioning climate in 5.2 was changed;
c) dimension of the remaining tape for preparation of the sheath slippage test in 5.4.2 was changed;
d) allowed slippage of the rope in the drop test in 5.6.3.
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech
Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece,
Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,
Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom.
Introduction
The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (International Mountaineering and Climbing federation), which has
been prepared with international participation.
This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and
twin ropes) in kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are
indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references,
the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F,
G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1)
ISO 6487, Road vehicles — Measurement techniques in impact tests — Instrumentation
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
dynamic mountaineering rope
rope, which is capable, when used as a component in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a person
engaged in mountaineering or climbing with a limited peak force
3.2
single rope
dynamic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a leader's
fall
3.3
half rope
dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to arrest the
leader's fall
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.4
twin rope
dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety chain
to arrest a leader's fall
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 2.
Figure 1 — Examples of use on half ropes

Figure 2 — Use of twin ropes
3.5
kernmantel rope
rope composed of a core and a sheath
3.6
safety chain
connection of linked elements which protects the climber or mountaineer against falls from a height
Note 1 to entry: The safety chain includes ropes connected to the anchors by connectors and to the climbers by
harnesses.
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Construction
Dynamic ropes in accordance with this European Standard shall be made in a kernmantel construction.
Diameter and mass per unit length are relevant characteristics. See test method in 5.3.
If the properties of the rope change along its length, for example: diameter, strength, markings, samples from
each section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to the lowest
performance section of the rope.
4.2 Sheath slippage
When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage in a longitudinal direction relative to the core (in
positive or negative direction) shall not exceed 1 % (20 mm) (see Figure 3).

Key
1 sheath
2 core
a
positive sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
b
negative sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
Figure 3 — Sheath slippage
4.3 Static elongation
When tested in accordance with 5.5, the static elongation shall not exceed:
 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope);
 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope);
 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
4.4 Dynamic Elongation
When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during the first drop for
each test sample.
4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops
4.5.1 Peak force in the rope
When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test sample,
shall not exceed:
 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope);
 8 kN in half ropes (single strand of rope);
 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
4.5.2 Number of drops
When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least 12,
consecutive drop tests without breaking.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test samples
A test sample with a length of:
 40 m for single and half ropes,
 80 m or 2 × 40 m for twin rope;
shall be available for the tests.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a length of (2 250 ± 10) mm.
Carry out the test in accordance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m for
single and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the available test sample.
5.2 Conditioning and test conditions
Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 ± 5) °C and less than 20 % relative humidity.
Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (23 ± 2) °C and (50 ± 2) % relative humidity for at least
72 h. Then start testing these samples at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C within 10 min.
5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length
5.3.1 Procedure
Clamp the test sample at one end.
1)
Load the test sample without shock with a mass of:
 (10 ± 0,1) kg for single ropes,
 (6 ± 0,1) kg for half ropes,
 (5 ± 0,1) kg for twin ropes
at a distance of at least 1 200 mm from the clamp.
After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 ± 1) mm on the test
sample. The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be at least 50 mm.
Within a further 3 min measure the diameter in two directions around the diameter starting at points 90° apart
at each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. If the rope cross section is not circular, the maximum and
minimum diameter are to be determined in each section. The length of the contact areas of the measuring
instrument shall be (50 ± 1) mm. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be subject to any compression during
the measurement.
Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g.
Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction.
5.3.2 Expression of results
Express the diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six measurements to the nearest 0,1 mm.
Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g.
5.4 Sheath slippage
5.4.1 Principle
The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by radial
forces. The resulting frictional force on the sheath causes slippage of the sheath relative to the core. The
extent of this slippage is measured.

1) The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force.
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
1 moving plates
2 spacers
3 fixed plates
Figure 4 — Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage
5.4.2 Preparation of the test samples
Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each test
sample to size, apply a short length of adhesive tape around the rope, where it is to be cut, at right angles to
the axis of the rope. The adhesive tape shall be at least 12 mm wide before cutting, and the angle of wrap
around the rope, Θ, shall be 150° ≤ Θ ≤ 180°. After affixing the adhesive tape, cut the sample to a length of
(2 250 ± 10) mm with a sharp knife, within the width of the tape, at right angles to the axis of the rope (see
Figure 5) such that the adhesive tape remaining on the test sample has a width of (10 ± 5) mm. The
characteristics of the adhesive tape and the method of application should be such as to reduce the extent to
which the cut end of the sheath unravels during the test, whilst not interfering with the slippage taking place
between the core and the sheath o
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