ASTM D4114-21

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Designation: D4114 − 14 D4114 − 21
Standard Performance Specification for
Woven Flat Lining Fabrics for Women’s and Girls’ Apparel
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4114; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers woven flat fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers to be used as linings
for women’s and girls’ apparel.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven pile, woven fusible, fire-bonded fusible, sliver-knit pile, and
sheepskin lining fabrics.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this performance
specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety safety, health, and healthenvironmental practices and
determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)
D1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile
Testing Machine)
D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse
Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved July 1, 2014Jan. 1, 2021. Published August 2014January 2021. Originally approved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 20082014 as
D4114 – 02D4114 – 14.(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D4114-14.10.1520/D4114-21.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
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D4114 − 21
2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
8TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
15TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
16.2 Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc
16.3TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc
23TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
61TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
116TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
124TM124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering
132TM132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
TM 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
TM 172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
TM 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure EP No. 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure EP No. 2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure EP No. 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
M11 A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
2.3 Federal Standard:
16 CFR 1610 , Chapter II–Consumer Product Safety Commission Subchapter D–Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
2.4 Military Standard:
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this performance specification give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 For terminology related to apparel see Terminology D7022.
3.1.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this performance specification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC methods
and to Terminology D123.
3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms are suitable for this performance specification.
4. Specification Requirements
4.1 The properties of woven flat fabrics, to be used as linings in women’s and girls’ apparel, shall conform to the specification
requirements in Table 1.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements
listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find
acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in
Table 1 may be modified upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4114 except
for the following characteristic(s).”
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.
Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
D4114 − 21
A
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Class The grade for color change, color transfer, and SA ratingchange and color transfer is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible
or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle change or color transfer to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.change or color transfer.
A grade for fabric smoothness requirements is based on SA-5 for a very smooth, pressed, finished appearance to a grade of SA-1 crumpled, creased and
severely wrinkled appearance.
Characteristic Requirements Section
Breaking strength (load)(CRT) 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.1
Breaking strength (load)(CRE) 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.1
Yarn slippage 6.3-mm ( ⁄4-in.) separation at 67 N 7.2
(15 lbf), min
Tongue-tear strength 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.3
Yarn distortion 7.4
Satins 2.5 mm (0.10 in.), max 7.4
All other 1 mm (0.05 in.), max
Dimensional change:
After five launderings 3 %, max 7.5.1
After three dry cleanings 2% , max 7.5.2
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes—2 cycles: 7.6.1
B
Shade change, original fabric Grade 4 , min
B
Grade 4 , min
Shade change after one laundering or one dry cleaning
B
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4 , min 7.6.7
B
Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 , min 7.6.8
F
Laundering: 7.6.2
B
Shade change Grade 4 , min
C
Grade 3 , min
Staining
Dry cleaning: 7.6.3
B
Shade change Grade 4 , min
F
Crocking: 7.6.4
D
Dry Grade 4 , min
D
Grade 3 , min
Wet
F
Perspiration: 7.6.5
B
Shade change Grade 4 , min
C
Grade 3 , min
Staining
B
Light (10 AATCC Fading Units)(xenon-arc) Grade 4 , min 7.6.6
B
Light (10 AFUs)(xenon-arc) Grade 4 , min 7.6.6
E
Fabric smoothness appearance (see 7.7.1) SA 3.5 , min 7.7
Flammability pass 7.8
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