ASTM D204-97

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
Designation: D 204 – 97
Standard Test Methods for
Sewing Threads
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D 76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Tex-
tiles
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
threads of any fiber.
D 1422 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by the Untwist-
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to
Retwist Method
evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
D 1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by the Direct-
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of
Counting Method
sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not
D 1683 Test Method for Failure In Sewn Seams of Woven
address any other properties that may be important for the
Fabrics
satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular
D 1776 Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing
end use conditions.
D 1777 Method for Measuring Thickness of Textile Mate-
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow-
rials
ing properties:
D 1907 Test Method for Yarn Number by the Skein
Sections
Method
Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73-83
Colorfastness to Laundering 62-72
D 2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the
Colorfastness to Water Migration 84-94
Single-Strand Method
Diameter 43-50
D 2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Length per Thread Holder 34-42
Shrinkage, Single Strand 51-61
D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Dry Heat 58.1
Apparel Fabrics
Boiling Water 58.2
D 3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
Strength and Elongation 15-21
Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1
Sewing Threads
Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2
D 3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sew-
Loop Strength 19.2
Knot Strength 19.3 ing Threads
Twist 22-27
D 3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) and
Twist Balance 28-33
Elongation of Sewn Seams of Knit or Woven Stretch
Yarn Number 7-14
Textile Fabrics
NOTE 1—For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test
2.2 AATCC Standards:
Methods D 1683 and D 3940.
Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics
standard; the values in English units are provided as informa-
Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change
tion only and are not exact equivalents. 4
Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
2.3 Federal Standard:
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the 5
Fed. Std. No. 751a Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica- 3. Terminology
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 colorfastness, n—the resistance of a material to
2. Referenced Documents
change in any of its color characteristics, to transfer its
2.1 ASTM Standards:
colorant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as the result of
exposure of the material to any real or simulated environment
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
Textiles, and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarn Test Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
Methods, General. Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
Current edition approved March 10, 1997. Published June 1997. Originally Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
published as D 204 – 24 T. Last previous edition D 204 – 93. Available from Naval Publications and Forms Center, 5801 Tabor Ave.,
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02. Philadelphia, PA 19120.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 204
that might be encountered during processing, storage, use of sewing thread(s) in a specified stitch.
testing of the material. 3.1.17 tex, n—a unit for expressing linear density, equal to
the mass in grams of 1 km of yarn, filament, fiber, or other
3.1.2 core yarn, n—deprecated term; see covered yarn.
textile strand. (Compare tex ticket number).
3.1.3 core-spun yarn, n—a compound structure in which a
3.1.17.1 Discussion—Tex is not the same as tex ticket
filament or strand serves as an axis around which a cover of
number.
either loose fiber or a yarn is wound.
3.1.18 tex ticket number, n—the designator assigned to a
3.1.3.1 Discussion—(1) General—In yarn testing, when
sewing thread to indicate the approximate linear density.
the core and cover in this type of compound structure need to
(Compare tex).
be separated, for testing of either component, the methods used
3.1.18.1 Discussion—This designator represents a size
should not compromise the physical properties of the compo-
variation which will range from 3 number apart up to 50
nent to be evaluated; and (2) Specific—as a sewing thread, the
numbers apart. The narrow range is important so that there is
means by which this compound structure is made will not
not a wide disparity in the linear density of the sizes indicated
allow the core and cover to be readily separated without
by a single designator. The wider range of numbers designate
compromising the physical attributes of each component.
heavier (coarser) yarns where the difference in yield is less of
Hence, the sewing thread should be evaluated as a compound
a critical factor relative to the linear density.
structure.
3.1.19 thread holder, n—the support package on which
3.1.4 covered yarn, n—a compound structure which con-
sewing yarn is wound.
tains distinguishable inner and outer fibrous elements which
3.1.19.1 Discussion—This support package enables sewing
can be different.
yarn to be securely placed for subsequent transportation,
3.1.5 elongation, n—the ratio of the extension of a material
storage and utilization at the point of use. The support packages
to the length of the material prior to stretching. (Compare
may be in the form of a cone, spool, tube, or bobbin.
extension).
3.1.20 ticket number, n—the tex ticket number assigned to a
3.1.6 greige thread, n—undyed or unfinished sewing thread
sewing thread to designate the approximate linear density of
in the state following final plying or equivalent step in
the sewing thread.
processing sequence, such as extruding, or braiding.
3.1.20.1 Discussion—The ticket number is an indicator of
3.1.7 growth, n—an increase in one or more dimensions of
the minimum amount of fiber present. The smaller the number,
an object or material.
the finer the thread (lesser amount of fiber), and the larger the
3.1.8 knot-breaking force, n—in tensile testing, the breaking
number, the coarser the thread (greater amount of fiber).
force of a strand having a specified knot configuration tied in
3.1.21 twist, n—the number of turns about its axis per unit
the test specimen portion of a strand mounted between the
of length observed in a yarn or other textile strand.
clamps of a tensile testing machine.
3.1.22 twist balance, n—in glass fiber cord and sewing
3.1.9 loop-breaking force, n—in tensile testing, the breaking
thread, the relationship of primary and final twist to each other
force of a specimen consisting of two lengths of strand from
and to the cord size such that residual torsional effects are
the same supply looped together in a specified configuration
nullified.
and mounted between the clamps of a tensile testing machine.
3.1.23 yarn number, n—a measure of the fineness or size of
3.1.10 sew, v—to unite or fasten with stitches.
a yarn expressed as “mass per unit length” or “length per unit
3.1.10.1 Discussion—In textiles, sewing usually involves a
mass,” depending on the yarn numbering system. (Compare
needle and sewing thread.
tex: tex ticket number).
3.1.11 sewing force, n—the force applied to a sewing thread
3.1.24 For definitions of other textile terms used in these test
at the needle eye during penetration of a material by the needle.
methods, refer to Terminology D 123.
3.1.12 sewing thread, n—a flexible, small-diameter yarn or
strand, usually treated with a surface coating lubricant, or both, 4. Significance and Use
intended to be used to stitch or join one or more pieces of
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods
material or an object to a material.
D 204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread
3.1.12.1 Discussion—Sewing threads are primarily made of
are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-
textile fibers but may be made from such non-textile materials
cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the
as stainless steel filaments.
individual test method. These test methods are the best
3.1.13 shrinkage, n—a decrease in one or more dimensions
available and are used extensively in the trade.
of an object or material.
4.1.1 In cases of a dispute arising from differences in
3.1.14 stitch, n—in sewing, the configuration of the inter-
reported test results when using Test Methods D 204 for
lacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See
acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and
stitching stitch type).
the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if
3.1.15 stitching, n—a series of stitches embodied in a
there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent
material or materials of planar structure such as woven textile statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of
fabrics, usually for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge,
bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test
or both. specimens which are as homogeneous as possible and which
3.1.16 stitch type, n—in sewn seams, a numerical designa- are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test
tion relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 204
to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two sample the number of packages or ends directed in an
laboratories should be compared using Student’s t-test for applicable material specification or other agreement to use
unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the
Practice D 2258. Preferably, the same number of packages
two parties before the testing begins. If a bias is found, either should be taken from each shipping unit in the lot sample. If
its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the
differing numbers of packages are to be taken from shipping
supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of
units in the lot sample, determine at random which shipping
the known bias.
units are to have each number of packages drawn.
5.3 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory
5. Sampling
sample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.
5.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,
take at random the number of shipping units directed in an
select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.
applicable material specification or other agreement between
the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use
6. Conditioning
Practice D 2258. Consider shipping cases or other shipping
6.1 For those tests requiring conditioned specimens, precon-
units to be the primary sampling units.
dition the prepared specimens for at least3hinan atmosphere
NOTE 2—An adequate specification or other agreement between the
with relative humidity between 10 and 25 % and a temperature
purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account variability between
not exceeding 50°C (122°F).
shipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping unit, and
between specimens from a single package so as to provide a sampling plan 6.2 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to moving
with a meaningful producer’s risk, consumer’s risk, acceptable quality
air in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 21 6 1°C
level, and limiting quality level.
(706 2°F) and 65 6 2 % relative humidity, until the mass of
5.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep- the specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 % after2hin
tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lot the standard atmosphere.
YARN NUMBER
TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant Yarn
7. Scope
Number
7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn number
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter
of all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder.
Perimeter
All thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps
8. Summary of Test Method
100 m 120 yd
8.1 A measured length of conditioned thread is wound on a
All threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps
10 m 12 yd
reel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed in
tex.
9. Significance and Use
TABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein in
Checking Length by Skein Method
9.1 This test method should be used in conjunction with
1.5 yd Reel
Practice D 3823 to designate tex ticket numbers.
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter
Perimeter
10. Apparatus
All thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps
200 m 300 yd
10.1 Reel:
Threads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps
10.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a
100 m 150 yd
specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing All threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps
50 m 75 yd
mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and
with an indicator of the length wound. A warning bell that will
ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
12. Procedure
10.2 Balance:
12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directed
10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, a
in Option 1 of Test Method D 1907, except that in place of
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
Table 2 in D 1907 use Table 1 of Test Methods D 204.
tivity of 1 part in 100.
10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning,
...