Standard Terminology Relating to Yarns and Fibers

SCOPE
1.1 This standard is a compilation of terminology developed by Committee D-13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included.
1.1.2 Subcommittee D13.58 has jurisdictional responsibility for every item in this standard. The standards in which the terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of 13.58 subcommittee. Any changes approved by the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology for subsequent changes or additions to Terminology D 123.
1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the terms under the jurisdiction of subcommittee D13.58. Other terminology standards under the jurisdiction of subcommittee D13.58 are D 3888, D 4466, and D 4848.

General Information

Status
Historical
Publication Date
30-Jun-2007
Technical Committee
Drafting Committee
Current Stage
Ref Project

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ASTM D4849-02b(2007) - Standard Terminology Relating to Yarns and Fibers
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D4849–02b (Reapproved 2007)
Standard Terminology Related to
Yarns and Fibers
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4849; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D1425 Test Method for Unevenness of Textile Strands
Using Capacitance Testing Equipment
1.1 Thisstandardisacompilationofterminologydeveloped
D1577 Test Methods for Linear Density of Textile Fibers
by Committee D-13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
D1578 Test Method for Breaking Strength ofYarn in Skein
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to
Form
fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are
D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn
generally understood or adequately defined in other readily
Number) by the Skein Method
available sources are not included.
D2102 TestMethodforShrinkageofTextileFibers(Bundle
1.1.2 SubcommitteeD13.58hasjurisdictionalresponsibility
Test)
for every item in this standard. The standards in which the
D2255 TestMethodforGradingSpunYarnsforAppearance
terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
definition.The wording of an entry cannot be changed without
D2259 Test Method for Shrinkage of Yarns
theapprovalof13.58subcommittee.Anychangesapprovedby
D2260 Tables of Conversion Factors and Equivalent Yarn
the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to
Numbers Measured in Various Numbering Systems
subcommittee D13.92 onTerminology for subsequent changes
D2402 Test Method for Water Retention of Textile Fibers
or additions to Terminology D123.
(Centrifuge Procedure)
1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the
D2612 Test Method for Fiber Cohesion in Sliver and Top
terms under the jurisdiction of subcommittee D13.58. Other
(Static Tests)
terminology standards under the jurisdiction of subcommittee
D2494 TestMethodforCommercialMassofaShipmentof
D13.58 are D3888, D4466, and D4848.
Yarn or Manufactured Staple Fiber or Tow
2. Referenced Documents
D2645 Tolerances forYarns Spun on the Cotton orWorsted
Systems
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D2644 Tolerances for Yarns Spun on the Woolen System
D76 Specification forTensileTesting Machines forTextiles
D3106 Test Method for Permanent Deformation of Elasto-
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
meric Yarns
D861 Practice for Use of the Tex System to Designate
D3108 Test Method for Coefficient of Friction, Yarn to
Linear Density of Fibers, Yarn Intermediates, and Yarns
Solid Material
D204 Test Methods for Sewing Threads
D3128 Specification for 2-Methoxyethanol
D1059 Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-
D3217 Test Methods for Breaking Tenacity of Manufac-
Length Specimens
tured Textile Fibers in Loop or Knot Configurations
D1244 Practice for Designation of Yarn Construction
D3218 Specification for Polyolefin Monofilaments
D1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by the
D3333 Practice for Sampling Manufactured Staple Fibers,
Untwist-Retwist Method
Sliver, or Tow for Testing
D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
D3412 TestMethodforCoefficientofFriction,YarntoYarn
D3513 TestMethodforOverlengthFiberContentofManu-
factured Staple Fiber
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers. D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
Current edition approved July 1, 2007 Published August 2007 Originally
Sewing Thread
approved in 1988. Discontinued June 1992 and reinstated as D4849–02. Last
D3822 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Single Textile
e1
previous edition approved in 2002 as D4849–02b . DOI: 10.1520/D4849-02BR07.
Fibers
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
D3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sew-
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
ing Threads
the ASTM website.
D3888 Terminology for Yarn Spinning Systems
Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced
on www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D4849–02b (2007)
D3937 Test Method for Crimp Frequency of manufactured broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
Staple Fibers more filaments. D3990
bulk shrinkage, n—a measure of potential stretch and power
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
of stretch yarns or a measure of bulk of textured-set yarns.
D4031 Test Method for Bulk Properties of Textured Yarns
D4031
D4120 Test Method for Fiber Cohesion in Roving, Sliver,
bunch, n—a defect in a yarn characterized by a segment not
and Top in Dynamic Tests
over6mm( ⁄4in.)inlengththatshowsanabruptincreasein
D4238 Test Method for Electrostatic Propensity of Textiles
diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular
D4466 Terminology Related to Multicomponent Textile
place. (See slug, slub.) D2255
Fibers
cable twist, n—the construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope
D4724 Test Method for Entanglements in Untwisted Fila-
in which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to
ment Yarns by Needle Insertion
the preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction.
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
D1423
Related Properties of Textiles
calibrate,v—todetermineandrecordtherelationshipbetween
D4911 TolerancesforYarnsMadeofMan-MadeFibersand
a set of standard units of measure and the output of an
Spun on the ParallelWorsted or ModifiedWorsted System
instrument or test procedure.
D5103 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of
Manufactured Staple Fibers (Single-Fiber Test)
DISCUSSION—This term is also commonly used to describe the
checkingofpreviouslymarkedinstruments,anoperationmoreproperly
D5104 TestMethodforShrinkageofTextileFibers(Single-
described as a description of verification. D76
Fiber Test)
D5332 Test Method for Fiber Length and Length Distribu-
capacity, n—for tensile testing machines, the maximum force
tion of Cotton Fibers
for which the machine is designed.
D5344 Test Method for Extension Force of Partially Ori-
DISCUSSION—Capacityisthemaximumforcethetester-frameandthe
ented Yarn
drive system can exercise on the specimen without inadmissible
D5647 Guide for Measuring Hairiness of Yarns by the
deformations of the tester-frame, etc. Within its capacity, there are
Photo-Electric Apparatus
available load-cells with different full-scale ranges which may be
D6197 Test Method for Classifying and Counting Faults in
chosen to select an appropriate full-scale range for a special test.
Spun Yarns in Electronic Tests
D76
D6587 Test Method for Yarn Number Using Automatic
case,n—intextiles,ashippingunit,usuallyacarton,box,bale,
Tester
or other container holding a number of yarn packages.
D6612 Test Method for Yarn Number and Yarn Number
D2258
Variability Using Automated Tester
clamp, n—that part of a testing machine used to grip the
D6774 TestMethodforCrimpandShrinkagePropertiesfor
specimen by means of suitable jaws. D76
Textured Yarns Using a Dynamic Textured Yarn Tester
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular, thick, uneven lumps. D2255
coefficient of friction, n—the ratio of the tangential force that
3. Terminology
is needed to maintain uniform relative motion between two
3.1 Alphabetical listings of terms with subcommittee 13.58
contacting surfaces to the perpendicular force holding them
jurisdiction and attribution for each term.
in contact. D3108, D3412
coefficient of variation unevenness, n—in textiles, the stan-
Americangraincount,n—adirectyarnnumberingsystemfor
dard deviation of the linear densities over which unevenness
expressinglineardensity,equaltothemassingrainsper120
is measured expressed as a percentage of the average linear
yards of sliver or roving. D2260
density for the total length within which unevenness is
bad/good test (%BGT), n—an index value which shows the
measured. (See also unevenness and mean deviation un-
total spread, or greatest variation, for the test; mathemati-
evenness.) D1425
cally, the difference between the highest and lowest mass
cohesive force, n—in a textile strand, the force required to
readingsdeterminedinthetest,expressedasapercentageof
overcome fiber cohesion as the strand is being reduced in
the average mass. D6612
linear density.
beam, n—in textiles, a large spool containing many ends of
DISCUSSION—Indynamictests,cohesiveforceistheforcerequiredto
yarn wound parallel, and used for such purposes as weaving
maintain drafting in a roving, silver, or top. In static tests, cohesive
or warp knitting. D2258
force is measured while a test specimen is held in a fixed position
beam set, n—in textiles,oneormorebeamsofyarninasingle
between two slowly separating clamps. D2612, D4120
shipment to be further processed together for a specific end
use. D2258
colorfastness, n—the resistance of a material to change in any
bench marks, n—marks placed on a specimen to define gage
of its color characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to
length, that is, the portion of the specimen that will be adjacent materials, or both, as the result of exposure of the
evaluated in a specific test. D76
material to any real or simulated environment that might be
boundary friction, n—friction at low sliding speeds (0.02 encountered during processing, storage, use or testing of the
m/min or less) where lubrication occurs under thin-film material. D204
lubricant conditions. D3412 commercial allowance, n—an arbitrary value equal to the
D4849–02b (2007)
either component, the methods used should not compromise the
commercial moisture regain plus a specified allowance for
physical properties of the component to be evaluated: and (2)
finish, used with the mass of scoured, oven-dried yarn, to
Specific—as a sewing thread, the means by which this compound
compute (1) yarn linear density, (2) the commercial or legal
structure is made will not allow the core and cover to be readily
mass of a shipment or delivery of any specific textile
separated without compromising the physical attributes of each com-
material (see also commercial moisture regain) or (3) the
ponent. Hence, the sewing thread should be evaluated as a compound
mass of a specific component in the analysis of fiber blends
structure. D204
D1907, D2494
cotton count, n—anindirectyarnnumberingsystemgenerally
commercial mass, n—billed mass as determined by a gener-
used in the cotton system equal to the number of 840-yd
ally accepted method or as agreed upon between the pur-
lengths of yarn per pound. D1059, D2260, D6587, D6612
chaser and supplier.
cotton system, n—a spinning system adapted to fibers less
DISCUSSION—The basis for determining the commercial mass of a
than 65 mm (2.5 in.) in length.
shipment of yarn or manufactured fibers is generally one of the
following: (1) CAS Basis (commercial allowance with scoured
DISCUSSION—Thissystemusuallyemploysflat-topcardsandmayuse
material)—themassofoven-dryfiberoryarnafterscouringbydefinite
roll and other drafting assemblies on intermediate processes and
prescribed methods plus the mass corresponding to its commercial
spinning machines. D2645
allowance, (2) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain with scoured
material)—themassofoven-dryfiberoryarnafterscouringbydefinite
cover, n—in yarns, the outside layer of fibers that form the
prescribed methods plus the mass corresponding to its commercial
surface of a yarn. D2255
moisture regain. (3) CMRU Basis (commercial regain with unscoured
covered yarn, n—a compound structure which contains dis-
material)—the mass of unscoured oven-dry fiber or yarn plus the mass
tinguishable inner and outer fibrous elements which can be
corresponding to its commercial regain. (4) UN Basis (unadjusted
different. D204
net)—the mass of the unscoured fiber or yarn with no adjustment for
CRE—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-extension. D76
the amount of moisture or finish, or both. D2494
crimp, n—in a textile strand, the undulations, waviness, or
cone, n—in textiles, (1) a yarn holder or bobbin of conical
succession of bend, curls, or waves in the strand induced
shapeusedasacoreforayarnpackageofconicalform,also
either naturally, mechanically, or chemically.
called a cone core. (2) the yarn package obtained when yarn
DISCUSSION—Crimp has many characteristics, among which are its
is wound upon a cone core. D2258
amplitude, frequency, index, and type. InTest Method D3937, crimp is
constant-rate-of-extension type tensile testing machine
characterizedbyachangeinthedirectionalrotationofalinetangentto
(CRE), n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
thefiberasthepointoftangentprogressesalongthefiber.Twochanges
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-
in rotation constitutes one unit of crimp. D3937
measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with
crimp, n—in a yarn, the undulations, waviness, or succession
increasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) D76
ofbends,curls,orwavesintheyarninducedeithernaturally,
constant-rate-of-load tensile testing machine (CRL), n—in
mechanically, thermall, or chemically. D6774
tensile testing, an apparatus in which the rate of increase of
crimp contraction, n—an indicator of crimp capacity or a
the force is uniform with time after the first 3 s and the
characterization of a yarn’s ability to contract under tension.
specimen is free to elongate, this elongation dependent on
D4031, D6774
the extension characteristics of the specimen at any applied
crimp development medium, n—for testing of textured yarn,
force. D76
an environment that allows the temporary set of fiber crimp
constant-rate-of-traverse tensile testing machine (CR),n—a
tobeovercomeandthatallowsthefilamentstoassumetheir
testing machine in which the pulling clamp moves at a
permanently set configuration. D4031
uniformrateandtheforceisappliedthroughtheotherclamp
crimp frequency, n—in manufactured staple fibers, the num-
which moves appreciably to actuate a force-measuring
ber of crimps or waves per unit length of extended or
mechanism, producing a rate of increase of force or exten-
straightened fiber. D3937
sion that is usually not constant and is dependent upon the
crimp index, n—an indirect measure of the amplitude of the
extension characteristics of the specimen. D76
crimp.
container, n—a receptacle designed to hold a material, or to
give integrity to the material.
DISCUSSION—Crimp index is calculated as the difference in distance
between t
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