Standard Test Method for Measuring Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale)

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
Break depends on the fiber structure and on the relation between the grain and other strata of the leather. A fine break, or a grain pattern which shows many fine wrinkles when it is bent to form a concave surface, as it is in the vamp of a shoe, reflects favorably upon appearance and serviceability. A coarse break, on the other hand, where a few coarse wrinkles are formed on bending the grain to form a concave surface may indicate that the grain layer is separating from the corium or main stratum as in pipey leather. Shoes made from fine-break leather are more attractive and tend to wear longer than shoes made from coarse-break leather. (See MIL-STD 663 and the ALCA Journal).4
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of the break pattern of shoe upper leather using an arbitrary break scale. This test method does not apply to wet blue.
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

Status
Historical
Publication Date
31-Aug-2004
Technical Committee
Drafting Committee
Current Stage
Ref Project

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ASTM D2941-00(2004) - Standard Test Method for Measuring Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale)
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D2941–00 (Reapproved 2004)
Standard Test Method for
Measuring Break Pattern of Leather (Break Scale)
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2941; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope reflects favorably upon appearance and serviceability.Acoarse
break, on the other hand, where a few coarse wrinkles are
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of the break
formed on bending the grain to form a concave surface may
pattern of shoe upper leather using an arbitrary break scale.
indicate that the grain layer is separating from the corium or
This test method does not apply to wet blue.
main stratum as in pipey leather. Shoes made from fine-break
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
leather are more attractive and tend to wear longer than shoes
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
made from coarse-break leather. (See MIL-STD 663 and the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
ALCA Journal).
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
5,6
5. Apparatus
2. Referenced Documents 5.1 Satra Mandrel, consisting of two windows or hollows.
5.2 Satra Visual Break Scale, consisting of eight levels of
2.1 ASTM Standards:
break ranging from 1, fine, to 8, coarse.
D 1517 Terminology Relating to Leather
2.2 MIL Standard:
6. Test Specimen
MIL-STD 663 Visual Inspection Guide for Footwear Upper
6.1 The sample for the test should be taken from an agreed
Leather
area of the hide, and shall be a piece of leather 2 by 4 in. (51
3. Terminology by 102 mm) with the long dimension perpendicular to the
backbone; or a cut shoe part.
3.1 Definitions:
6.2 Unless otherwise specified, one specimen shall be tested
3.1.1 break (of leather)—the pattern of wrinkles formed on
from each sample.
the grain surface of upper leather when it is bent grain in to
form a concave surface. This characteristic is observed in the
7. Procedure
vamp of the shoe in walking. For this reason this test method
7.1 With long dimension of the specimen parallel to the
is primarily intended for evaluation of cut parts.
length of the mandrel, bend it with thumb and fingers to bring
3.2 For definitions of other terms used in this test method,
it into contact with the outside of the mandrel, and observe the
refer to Terminology D 1517.
wrinkles through the windows.
4. Significance and Use 7.2 Compare the wrinkle pattern of the specimen with those
of the Satra break scale.
4.1 Break depends on the fiber structure and on the relation
7.3 The specimen should be rated to the nearest ⁄2-grade,
between the grain and other strata of the leather. A fine break,
that is, if it appears that the break is better than 4 but not as
or a grain pattern which shows many fine wrinkles when it is
good as 3, the break of the leather should be graded as 3 ⁄2 .
bent to form a concave surface, as it is in the vamp of a shoe,
Thus, the 8-point scale gives a 15 reading range from 1 to 8 in
steps of ⁄2 scale unit.
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D31 on Leather
and is the direct responsibility of Subcom
...

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