SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Eisgeräte fest, die beim Berg¬steigen, einschließlich Klettern, verwendet werden und als vergrabener Ankerpunkt zum Schutz gegen Absturz dienen.
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente Norme européenne spécifie des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d’essai relatives aux outils à glace utilisés dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade, ainsi que comme point d’ancrage enfoui dans la neige pour la protection contre les chutes.
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za orodje za led za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem, in kot vkopano sidro za zaščito pred padci.
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Standards Content (Sample)
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenÉquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 13089:2011+A1:2015SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015en,fr,de01-september-2015SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015SLOVENSKI
STANDARDSIST EN 13089:20111DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 13089:2011+A1
April 2015 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:2011English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 5 February 2011 and includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 19 March 2015.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels © 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 ESIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword .3 Introduction .4 1 Scope .5 2 Normative references .5 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Safety requirements .6 4.1 Edges .6 4.2 Shaft strength .6 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY .6 4.4 Strength in the load direction XX .6 4.5 Pick strength .7 5 Test methods .7 5.1 Preparation of test samples .7 5.2 Apparatus .7 5.3 Procedure .7 5.3.1 Test sample .7 5.3.2 Edges .8 5.3.3 Shaft strength .8 5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY .9 5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX .9 5.3.6 Pick strength . 10 6 Marking . 11 7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12 Annex A (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 14
SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 13089:2011+A1:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2015, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by October 2015. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes !EN 13089:2011". This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 2015-03-19. The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !". This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the Eu-ropean Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been made: a) an editorial revision has been carried on; b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls; c) there is a new classification of ice-tools; d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted; e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised; f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted; g) there is an additional marking. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 4 Introduction This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations" d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment
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Safety requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 ice-tool hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick NOTE See Figure 1. 3.2 type 1 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.3 type 2 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice 3.4 type 1 pick pick intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.5 type 2 pick pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 (E) 6
Key 1 Shaft of the ice-tool 2 Pick of the ice-tool Figure 1 — Main parts of an ice-tool 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Edges All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges. 4.2 Shaft strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated fK value. 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY When tested in the load direction Y
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