SIST EN 892:2012+A3:2023

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 892:2012+A3:2023
01-julij-2023
Gorniška oprema - Dinamično obremenjene gorniške vrvi - Varnostne zahteve in
preskusne metode (z dopolnili do vključno A3)
Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and
test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen
und Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 892:2012+A3:2023
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 892:2012+A3:2023 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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SIST EN 892:2012+A3:2023

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SIST EN 892:2012+A3:2023


EN 892:2012+A3
EUROPEAN STANDARD

NORME EUROPÉENNE

April 2023
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:2012+A2:2021
English Version

Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering
ropes - Safety requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile -
dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
d'essai Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 3 October 2021 and includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 9 June 2016,
Amendment 2 approved by CEN on 3 October 2021 and Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21 December 2022.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.





EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATIO N

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUN G

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 892:2012+A3:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

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EN 892:2012+A3:2023 (E)
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 7
5 Test methods . 9
6 Marking . 24
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 25
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment. 27
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 28

2

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EN 892:2012+A3:2023 (E)
European foreword
This document (EN 892:2012+A3:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136
“Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by
DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2023, and conflicting national standards shall
be withdrawn at the latest by October 2023.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 9 June 2016, Amendment 2 approved by
CEN on 3 October 2021 and Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21 December 2022.
This document supersedes %EN 892:2012+A2:2021&.
The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !" ,
#$ and %&.
This document has been prepared under a Standardization Request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of
EU Directive(s) / Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s) / Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral
part of this document.
The main changes compared to EN 892:2004 are:
a) editorial changes;
b) conditioning climate in 5.2 was changed;
c) dimension of the remaining tape for preparation of the sheath slippage test in 5.4.2 was changed;
d) allowed slippage of the rope in the drop test in 5.6.3.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,
Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of
North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the
United Kingdom.
3

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EN 892:2012+A3:2023 (E)
Introduction
The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (International Mountaineering and Climbing federation), which
has been prepared with international participation.
This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4

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1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half
and twin ropes) in kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
%EN ISO 6508-1:2016, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (ISO 6508-
1:2016)
1
ISO 6487:2015 , Road vehicles — Measurement techniques in impact tests — Instrumentation&
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
• ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
• IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
3.1
dynamic mountaineering rope
rope, which is capable, when used as a component in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a
person engaged in mountaineering or climbing with a limited peak force
3.2
single rope
dynamic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a
leader's fall
3.3
half rope
dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to
arrest the leader's fall
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.4
twin rope
dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety
chain to arrest a leader's fall
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 2.

1
As impacted by ISO 6487:2015/Amd 1:2017.
5

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Figure 1 — Examples of use on half ropes
6

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Figure 2 — Use of twin ropes
3.5
kernmantel rope
rope composed of a core and a sheath
3.6
safety chain
connection of linked elements which protects the climber or mountaineer against falls from a height
Note 1 to entry: The safety chain includes ropes connected to the anchors by connectors and to the climbers by
harnesses.
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Construction
Dynamic ropes in accordance with this European Standard shall be made in a kernmantel construction.
Diameter and mass per unit length are relevant characteristics. See test method in 5.3.
If the properties of the rope change along its length, for example: diameter, strength, markings, samples
from each section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to
the lowest performance section of the rope.
4.2 Sheath slippage
When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage in a longitudinal direction relative to the core
(in positive or negative direction) shall not exceed 1 % (20 mm) (see Figure 3).
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Key
1 sheath
2 core
a positive sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
b negative sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
Figure 3 — Sheath slippage
4.3 Static elongation
When tested in accordance with 5.5, the static elongation shall not exceed:
— 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope);
— 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope);
— 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
4.4 Dynamic Elongation
When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during the first drop
for each test sample.
4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops
4.5.1 Peak force in the rope
When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test
sample, shall not exceed:
— 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope);
— 8 kN in half ropes (single strand of rope);
— 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
4.5.2 Number of drops
When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least
12, consecutive drop tests without breaking.
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5 Test methods
5.1 Test samples
A test sample with a length of:
— 40 m for single and half ropes,
— 80 m or 2 × 40 m for twin rope;
shall be available for the tests.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a length of (2 250 ± 10) mm.
Carry out the test in accordance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m
for single and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the available test sample.
5.2 Conditioning and test conditions
Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 ± 5) °C and less than 20 % relative
humidity. Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (23 ± 2) °C and (50 ± 2) % relative
humidity for at least 72 h. Then start testing these samples at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C within
10 min.
5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length
5.3.1 Procedure
Clamp the test sample at one end.
2)
Load the test sample without shock with a mass of:
— (10 ± 0,1) kg for single ropes,
— (6 ± 0,1) kg for half ropes,
— (5 ± 0,1) kg for twin ropes
at a distance of at least 1 200 mm from the clamp.
After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 ± 1) mm on the
test sample. The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be at
least 50 mm.
Within a further 3 min measure the diameter in two directions around the diameter starting at points
90° apart at each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. If the rope cross section is not circular,
the maximum and minimum diameter are to be determined in each section. The length of the contact
areas of the measuring instrument shall be (50 ± 1) mm. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be
subject to any compression during the measurement.
Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g.
Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction.

2)
The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force.
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5.3.2 Expression of results
Express the diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six measurements to the nearest 0,1 mm.
Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g.
5.4 Sheath slippage
5.4.1 Principle
The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by
radial forces. The resulting frictional force on the sheath causes slippage of the sheath relative to the
core. The extent of this slippage is measured.
Dimensions in millimetres
!

"
Key
1 moving plates
2 spacers
3 fixed plates
Figure 4 — Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage
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5.4.2 Preparation of the test samples
Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each
test sample to size, apply a short length of adhesive tape around the rope, where it is to be cut, at right
angles to the axis of the rope. The adhesive tape shall be at least 12 mm wide before cutting, and the
angle of wrap around the rope, Θ, shall be 150° ≤ Θ ≤ 180°. After affixing the adhesive tape, cut the
sample to a length of (2 250 ± 10) mm with a sharp knife, within the width of the tape, at right angles to
the axis of the rope (see Figure 5) such that the adhesive tape remaining on the test sample has a width
of (10 ± 5) mm. The characteristics of the adhesive tape and the method of application should be such
as to reduce the extent to which the cut end of the sheath unravels during the test, whilst not interfering
with the slippage taking place between the core and the sheath of the rope sample.
Dimensions in millimetres

Key
1 adhesive tape
Figure 5 — Sheath slippage test - Cutting the test sample to length
5.4.3 Apparatus
The apparatus shall consist of a frame made out of four steel plates each 10 mm thick, kept equal
distances apart by three spacers. These spacers shall have rectangular slots in which three inserted
steel plates are able to slide in a radial direction. The spacers shall be arranged in such a way as to allow
each of the three inserted plates to slide at an angle of 120° (see Figure 5).
Each of the seven plates shall have an opening with a diameter of 12 mm; their internal surfaces shall be
semitoroidal and have a radius of 5 mm. The polished surfaces of the semi-torus shall show:
— an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of R = 0,4 µm and
a
— a surface roughness of R = 4 µm (see Figure 6).
max
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Dimensions in millimetres
!

"
Figure 6 — Section through one of the plates
The moving plates shall have a locked position in which the openings in the fixed plates and the
openings in the moving plates all lie in line along a central axis. When not in their locked position each
of the moving plates shall apply a radial force of (50 ± 0,5) N to the test sample in the direction in which
the plate moves. The test apparatus shall be rigidly mounted with its axis horizontal. Means shall be
provided to support, on a smooth surface, the test sample in a horizontal position in line with the axis of
the test apparatus, in both directions of travel.
5.4.4 Procedure
5.4.4.1 At the start of the test the moving plates shall be in their locked position.
5.4.4.2 Introduce the fused end of the test sample into the apparatus and pull to a length of
(200 ± 10) mm through the test apparatus (see Figure 7). Ensure that the remainder of the test sample
is not subjected to any load and lies in a horizontal position in a straight line.
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Dimensions in millimetres

Key
1 sliding plates
Figure 7 — Layout of the test sample before and after sheath slippage test
5.4.4.3 Release the moving plates from their locked position and apply a force of (50 ± 0,5) N to the
test sample via each of the three moving plates and pull the test sample through the apparatus at a rate
+30
of (0,5 ± 0,2) m/s for a distance of (1 930 ) mm.
0
5.4.4.4 Remove the loads from the moving plates and return them to their locked position. Carefully
get hold of the short end of the test sample and slowly and gently pull it back through the test apparatus
to its initial position.
5.4.4.5 Repeat the procedure described in 5.4.4.3 and 5.4.4.4 three times. Then carry out the
procedure described in 5.4.4.3 once more. Whilst the test sample is still in the test apparatus, and with
the loads still applied to the moving plates, measure the relative slippage of the sheath along the core at
the open end of the test sample (see Figure 3).
5.4.5 Expression of results
Calculate the sheath slippage in percentage of the sample length (2 000 mm).
Express the value for each test sample to the nearest 0,1 %.
5.5 Determination of static elongation
5.5.1 Procedure
Carry out the test on a:
— single strand of rope for single ropes;
— single strand of rope for half ropes;
— double strand of rope for twin ropes.
+100
Clamp the test samples such that the free length between the clamps is (1 500 ) mm.
− 0
+5
Load the test sample without shock within (10 ) s with a mass of (80 ± 0,1) kg and maintain this load
−0
for (180 ± 15) s.
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Remove the load from the test sample and allow it to remain at rest for (10 ± 0,5) min.
+5
Load the test sample without shock within (10 ) s with a mass of (5 ± 0,1) kg.
−0
After applying the load for 60 s, mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 ± 1) mm.
+5
Increase the load to (80 ± 0,1) kg without shock , within (10 ) s and maintain this load for (60 ± 5) s.
0
Measure the new distance l between the markings on the stressed test sample within the next 5 s.
1
5.5.2 Expression of results
Express the elongation as a percentage of the unloaded length: that is (l – 1 000)/10. Express the
1
results to the nearest 0,1 % for each test sample.
5.6 Drop test for determination of peak force, dynamic elongation and number of drops
5.6.1 Test conditions
Carry out the first drop test within 10 min of the respective test sample's removal from the conditioning
atmosphere (see 5.2).
5.6.2 Drop test apparatus
5.6.2.1 General
The drop test apparatus shall be set up in accordance with Figures 8, 10, 11, 12 and 13, and shall consist
essentially of a bollard and clamp, orifice plate, falling mass and guidance rails, means for measuring the
peak force in the rope, and means for measuring the peak extension of the rope. In addition, there shall
be a means for timing the descent of the mass to check that the guidance system is not interfering with
the free fall of the mass. The apparatus shall be sufficiently precise and rigid as to achieve the required
accuracy and reproducibility of the results.
5.6.2.2 Bollard and clamp
The bollard shall consist of a steel bar with a diameter of (30 ± 0,1) mm and a surface roughness as
follows:
— arithmetic mean deviation of the profile of R ≤ 0,8 µm;
a
— surface roughness R ≤ 6,3 µm.
max
The bar shall be fixed rigidly with its axis horizontal and without the possibility of rotation. To maintain
rigidity, the bar shall be as short as reasonably practicable whilst allowing two twin ropes or one single
rope each to be wound around its circumference three times. There shall be two clamps fixed rigidly in
relation to the bollard in accordance with the dimensions in Figures 10 and 11, and capable of fixing the
free end(s) of the rope(s).
5.6.2.3 Orifice plate
The orifice plate shall be manufactured from steel with a surface hardness of at least 52 HRC according
to %EN ISO 6508-1:2016&. There shall be a cylindrical hole machined through the orifice plate at
right angles to its surface. The inside edge of the orifice shall be semi-toroidal in shape, with dimensions
in accordance with Figure 8. The orifice plate shall be mounted vertically in the apparatus, and fixed
rigidly in relation to the bollard in accordance with the dimensions in Figures 10 and 11.
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There shall not be any structure below the orifice plate which might come into contact with the rope(s)
during a drop. When fixed in position in the apparatus, the lower edge of the orifice plate shall be
horizontal with a radius of at least 5 mm, and a dimension relative to the orifice as shown in Figure 8.
The semi-toroidal surface of the orifice shall have a roughness as follows:
— arithmetic mean deviation of the profile of R ≤ 0,2 µm;
a
— surface roughness R ≤ 2 µm.
max
The surface of the orifice plate below the orifice (see Figure 8) shall have a roughness as follows:
— arithmetic mean deviation of the profile of R ≤ 0,4 µm; surface roughness R ≤ 4 µm.
a max
Dimensions in millimetres

Figure 8 — Orifice plate
5.6.2.4 Falling mass and guidance rails
The falling mass shall be made of metal, and its fall shall be guided by two vertical rigid guidance rails.
Apart from items of negligible mass, the system of falling mass and guidance rails shall have a common
plane of symmetry midway between the guidance rails. The surface of the orifice plate shall be at right
angles to this plane of symmetry, and the centre line of the orifice shall lie within ± 2 mm of the plane of
symmetry. The falling mass and guidance system shall be positioned such that the horizontal distance
between the centre-line of the orifice plate and the centre-point of the means for rope attachment to the
falling mass is (80 ± 10) mm throughout the drop (see Figure 9).
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The dimensions of the falling mass, and of the guidance rails are not defined, but there are constraints
on some dimensions, on the design, and on the shape of the falling mass, as follows:
a) The falling mass shall be designed to fall freely with minimum contact with the guidance rails until
the test sample comes under tension, when some contact with the guidance rails will occur. To keep
the friction low between the falling mass and the guidance rails, the falling mass may be fitted with
roller or ball bearings or plane bearings with low friction surfaces. In all cases there shall be free
play between the falling mass and the guidance rails amounting to a maximum of 8 mm both in the
plane of the guidance rails and at right angles to this. The minimum vertical distance between
points on the falling mass which can come into contact with the guidance rails shall be defined as a
distance B. The design of the falling mass shall be such that
B ≥ 1,10 C,
where C is the minimum distance between points of contact with the guidance rails (see Figure 12).
b) The falling mass shall be fitted with a means for attachment of the rope, which can take several
+5
forms, a U-bolt or a comparable construction which has a contact radius of (15 ) mm and a
−0
thickness of (15 ± 0,1) mm, rigidly attached to the falling mass. The inner edge and the upper edge
of the attachment shall have a semicircular profile of radius (7,5 ± 0,05) mm.
An essential requirement is that the metal cross-section above the highest part of the attachment
shall be circular of diameter (15 ± 0,1) mm. Examples of forms for the means for attachment of the
rope are shown in Figure 13.
The effective point of application of the force from the rope onto the falling mass (see point X in
Figure 13) shall lie within 1 mm of the intersection of the following three planes:
1) a horizontal plane containing the highest points on the falling mass which can come into
contact with the guidance rails;
2) the plane of symmetry of the falling mass;
3) a plane at right angles to the two previous planes, which lies equidistant between the points to
the front of the falling mass which can come into contact with the guidance rails.
When the falling mass is hung from the means for attachment of the rope, and allowed to hang
freely, the falling mass shall hang within 0,5° of its normal orientation measured in any vertical
plane.
The distance between the effective point of application of the force from the rope onto the falling
mass (see point X in Figure 13) and the centre of gravity of the falling mass (A) shall be at least two
thirds of the vertical distance between the highest point and the lowest point which can come into
contact with the guidance rails (B) (see Figure 12). That is:
A ≥ 2 B/3
c) The falling mass, including the means for rope attachment, guidance bearings, and any other fixed
attachments, shall weigh:
1) (80 ± 0,1) kg for single ropes;
2) (55 ± 0,1) kg for half ropes;
3) (80 ± 0,1) kg for twin ropes.
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Dimensions in millimetres
!

"
Key
X top view of the fixation
Figure 9 — Layout of apparatus for single strand test (half ropes, single ropes)
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Figure 10 — Illustration of the figure-of-eight knot

Figure 11 — Layout of apparatus for double strand test (twin ropes)
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All other dimensions see Figure 9.

Key
1 upper point of contact with guidance rails
2 lower point of contact with guidance rails
A ≥ 2 B/3
B ≥ 1,10 C
C minimum distance between points of contact with the guidance rails
Figure 12 — Dimensional constraints on the falling mass
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Dimensions in millimetres

Key
1 clamping surface
R + 5
= (15 ) mm
0
X effective point of application of the force
Figure 13 — Examples of forms for the means for attachment of the ropes to the falling mass
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Key
Y
 sensitivity coefficient
20 lg
 
calibration factor
 
X frequency, in Hz
Figure 14 — CFC30 frequency response limits (according to %ISO 6487:2015&)
Table 1 — CFC and logarithmic scale for the frequency response limits (according to
%ISO 6487:2015&)
     Logarithmic scale
     a ± 0,5 dB
     b + 0,5; − 1 dB
F F F  c + 0,5; − 4 dB
L H N
CFC
Hz Hz Hz
30 ≤ 0,1 30 50  d − 9 dB/octave
     e −24 dB/octave
     f ∞
     g − 30 dB
5.6.2.5 Means for measuring the peak force in the rope
The measurements obtained have to equal the force which the rope(s) applies to the falling mass.
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If the device is interposed between the falling mass and the means for attachment of the rope, it shall be
sufficiently rigid that th
...