ASTM F1772-99
(Specification)Standard Specification for Climbing Harnesses
Standard Specification for Climbing Harnesses
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers climbing harnesses for use in the sports of rock, ice, and snow climbing. It establishes requirements for the testing, performance, and marking of climbing harnesses and for the instructions that are supplied with them.
1.2 This specification may contain test methods that do not entirely simulate real-life climbing situations. The test methods are designed to give reproducible results in a laboratory and, thereby, a means for product comparison.
1.3 Three types of harnesses are covered by this specification: full body harnesses, sit harnesses, and chest harnesses.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
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An American National Standard
Designation: F 1772 – 99
Standard Specification for
Climbing Harnesses
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F 1772; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1 adjusting device, n—any device that allows adjust-
1.1 This specification covers climbing harnesses for use in
ment to be made to the harness to the requirements of the
the sports of rock, ice, and snow climbing. It establishes
wearer.
requirements for the testing, performance, and marking of
3.2.2 belay/rappel loop, n—a loop intended for attaching a
climbing harnesses and for the instructions that are supplied
belaying or rappelling device to the harness using a carabiner.
with them.
3.2.3 belt, n—the part of the harness that is around the
1.2 This specification may contain test methods that do not
waist.
entirelysimulatereal-lifeclimbingsituations.Thetestmethods
3.2.4 buckle, n—a connector used for attaching webbing
are designed to give reproducible results in a laboratory and,
segments together.
thereby, a means for product comparison.
3.2.5 load-bearing parts, n—parts of the harness that trans-
1.3 Three types of harnesses are covered by this specifica-
mit load during testing in accordance with Section 11.
tion: full body harnesses, sit harnesses, and chest harnesses.
3.2.6 nonload-bearing parts, n—other parts of the harness.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
3.2.7 rope attachment points, n—parts of the harness in-
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
tended for the attachment of the climbing rope.
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
3.2.8 performance rating for a harness, n—a pass/fail
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
designation indicating if the harness has passed all required
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
tests presented in this specification.
1.5 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
standard.
4. Summary of Specification
2. Referenced Documents 4.1 Representative samples of climbing harnesses are tested
for minimum strength.
2.1 ASTM Standards:
E4 Practices for Force Verification of Testing Machines
5. Significance and Use
F1775 Specification for Labeling of Climbing and Moun-
3 5.1 The strength of climbing harnesses is one of the prop-
taineering Equipment
erties used to evaluate their suitability for climbing.
F1773 Terminology Relating to Climbing and Mountain-
3 5.2 Marking and instructions aid in the selection and use of
eering Equipment and Practices
climbing harnesses.
2.2 Other Standard:
International Union of Alpine Associations (Union Interna-
6. Performance Requirements
tionale d’Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA)) Standard for
6.1 During each of the tests described in Section 11, no
Full Body Harnesses
load-bearing part shall break completely. In addition, the
3. Terminology harness shall not be released from the torso.
6.2 The webbing in all buckles and adjusting devices shall
3.1 Definitions—Terms defined in Terminology F1773
slip no more than 20 mm.
shall be applicable to this specification.
6.3 If there are multiple independent rope attachment
points, the tests shall be repeated using a new sample as
This specification is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F-8 on Sports
defined in 8.1, for each combination of rope attachment points
Equipment, Surfaces, and Facilitiesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee
specified in the manufacturer’s instructions.
F08.21on Climbing and Mountaineering.
Current edition approved Feb. 10, 1999. Published April 1999. Originally 6.4 If the harness has a belay/rappel loop, the test described
published as F1772-97. Last previous edition F1772-97.
in 12.3 shall be repeated using a new sample as defined in 8.1,
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 03.02.
with the belay/rappel loop as the load attachment point. No
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 15.07.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
F 1772
load-bearing part shall break completely nor shall the harness 9. Calibration and Standardization
be released from the torso.
9.1 TestequipmentistobeincompliancewithPracticesE4
and other requirements specific to the equipment.
7. Apparatus
7.1 Body Shaped Torso (see Fig. 1),
10. Conditioning
7.2 Tensile Test Machine,usedtoapplyloadstotheharness,
10.1 Tests may be completed under ambient conditions. In
and
cases of dispute, harness samples will be conditioned in
7.3 Load Cell, for measuring the tensile force applied to the
accordance with 10.2.
harness.
10.2 The harness samples are first dried in an atmosphere
8. Sampling, Test Specimens, and Test Units
with a relative humidity of less than 10% for a period of 24 h.
8.1 Harness test specimens shall be new and in unused Then they are placed in an atmosphere of 50 65% relative
condition, selected randomly from a production lot of a given humidity, 20 62°C for a period of 72 h. Tests may then be
done outside the conditioning room, but the temperature shall
model of harness. They shall conform in all respects to the
manufacturer’s specifications for the model to be tested and be 23 65°C. The tests shall begin within 5 min of removal
shall be the proper size to fit the test torso. from conditioning and be completed within 4 h.
NOTE 1—All linear dimensions are in millimetres, 65 mm.
NOTE 2—The dimensions are those of a torso developed by the UIAA for testing harnesses.
NOTE 3—Waist circumference at X-X is 850 mm.
FIG. 1 Outline of the Torso
F 1772
11. Harnesses
11.1 Full Body Harnesses:
11.1.1 The harness shall be put on a test torso and attached
with a rope to the test machine in accordance with the
manufacturer’s instructions for use.
11.1.2 U
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