Standard Specification for Climbing Harnesses

ABSTRACT
This specification covers the tests and corresponding performance and design requirements for climbing harnesses used in the sports of rock, ice, and snow climbing. Three types of harnesses are covered by this specification: full body harnesses, sit harnesses, and chest harnesses. Representative samples of harnesses shall be tested for minimum strength to evaluate their suitability for use in climbing.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers climbing harnesses for use in the sports of rock, ice, and snow climbing. It establishes requirements for the testing, performance, and marking of climbing harnesses and for the instructions that are supplied with them.  
1.2 This specification may contain test methods that do not entirely simulate real-life climbing situations. The test methods are designed to give reproducible results in a laboratory and, thereby, a means for product comparison.  
1.3 Three types of harnesses are covered by this specification: full body harnesses, sit harnesses, and chest harnesses.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard.

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Publication Date
30-Sep-2005
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ASTM F1772-99(2005) - Standard Specification for Climbing Harnesses
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: F1772 – 99 (Reapproved 2005)
Standard Specification for
Climbing Harnesses
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1772; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1 adjusting device, n—any device that allows adjust-
1.1 This specification covers climbing harnesses for use in
ment to be made to the harness to the requirements of the
the sports of rock, ice, and snow climbing. It establishes
wearer.
requirements for the testing, performance, and marking of
3.2.2 belay/rappel loop, n—a loop intended for attaching a
climbing harnesses and for the instructions that are supplied
belaying or rappelling device to the harness using a carabiner.
with them.
3.2.3 belt, n—the part of the harness that is around the
1.2 This specification may contain test methods that do not
waist.
entirelysimulatereal-lifeclimbingsituations.Thetestmethods
3.2.4 buckle, n—a connector used for attaching webbing
are designed to give reproducible results in a laboratory and,
segments together.
thereby, a means for product comparison.
3.2.5 load-bearing parts, n—parts of the harness that trans-
1.3 Three types of harnesses are covered by this specifica-
mit load during testing in accordance with Section 11.
tion: full body harnesses, sit harnesses, and chest harnesses.
3.2.6 nonload-bearing parts, n—other parts of the harness.
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
3.2.7 rope attachment points, n—parts of the harness in-
standard.
tended for the attachment of the climbing rope.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
3.2.8 performance rating for a harness, n—a pass/fail
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
designation indicating if the harness has passed all required
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
tests presented in this specification.
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4. Summary of Specification
2. Referenced Documents 4.1 Representativesamplesofclimbingharnessesaretested
for minimum strength.
2.1 ASTM Standards:
E4 Practices for Force Verification of Testing Machines
5. Significance and Use
F1773 TerminologyRelatingtoClimbingandMountaineer-
5.1 The strength of climbing harnesses is one of the prop-
ing Equipment and Practices
erties used to evaluate their suitability for climbing.
F1775 Specification for Labeling of Climbing and Moun-
5.2 Marking and instructions aid in the selection and use of
taineering Equipment
climbing harnesses.
2.2 Other Standard:
International Union of Alpine Associations (Union Interna-
6. Performance Requirements
tionale d’Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA)) Standard for
6.1 During each of the tests described in Section 11,no
Full Body Harnesses
load-bearing part shall break completely. In addition, the
3. Terminology harness shall not be released from the torso.
6.2 The webbing in all buckles and adjusting devices shall
3.1 Definitions—TermsdefinedinTerminologyF1773shall
slip no more than 20 mm.
be applicable to this specification.
6.3 If there are multiple independent rope attachment
points, the tests shall be repeated using a new sample as
This specification is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F32 on Search
defined in 8.1, for each combination of rope attachment points
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
specified in the manufacturer’s instructions.
Testing, and Maintenance.
6.4 If the harness has a belay/rappel loop, the test described
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2005. Published October 2005. Originally
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 1999 as F1772–99. DOI:
in 12.3 shall be repeated using a new sample as defined in 8.1,
10.1520/F1772-99R05.
with the belay/rappel loop as the load attachment point. No
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
load-bearing part shall break completely nor shall the harness
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
be released from the torso.
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
F1772 – 99 (2005)
7. Apparatus 9. Calibration and Standardization
7.1 Body Shaped Torso (see Fig. 1), 9.1 Test equipment is to be in compliance with PracticesE4
7.2 Tensile Test Machine,usedtoapplyloadstotheharness, and other requirements specific to the equipment.
and
10. Conditioning
7.3 Load Cell, for measuring the tensile force applied to the
10.1 Tests may be completed under ambient conditions. In
harness.
cases of dispute, harness samples will be conditioned in
8. Sampling, Test Specimens, and Test Units
accordance with 10.2.
8.1 Harness test specimens shall be new and in unused 10.2 The harness samples are first dried in an atmosphere
condition, selected randomly from a production lot of a given with a relative humidity of less than 10% for a period of 24 h.
model of harness. They shall conform in all respects to the Then they are placed in an atmosphere of 50 65% relative
manufacturer’s specifications for the model to be tested and humidity, 20 62°C for a period of 72 h. Tests may then be
shall be the proper size to fit the test torso. done outside the conditioning room, but the temperature shall
NOTE 1—All linear dimensions are in millimetres, 65 mm.
NOTE 2—The dimensions are those of a torso developed by the UIAA for testing harnesses.
NOTE 3—Waist circumference at X-X is 850 mm.
FIG. 1 Outline of the Torso
F1772 – 99 (2005)
be 23 65°C. The tests shall begin within 5 min of removal
from conditioning and be completed within 4 h.
11. Harnesses
11.1 Full Body Harnesses:
11.1.1 The harness shall be put on a test torso and attached
with a rop
...

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