ASTM D2817-05
(Specification)Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
ABSTRACT
This specification sets the maximum permissible cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere in the form of roving, yarn, or fabric. Single standard testing for the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content shall be enough. In case of dispute, additional tests may be done.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers the allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere which has been processed at least to the roving stage.
1.2 For blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, this specification is applicable only to the cashmere hair content of such blends.Note 1
For the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere, refer to Test Method D 2816. For the identification of textile fibers see Methods D 276. For the quantitative determination of the composition of textile blends, see Test Methods D 629.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D 2817 – 05
Standard Specification for
1
Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2817; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, see Termi-
nology D 123.
1.1 This specification covers the allowable cashmere
coarse-hair content in cashmere which has been processed at
4. Significance and Use
least to the roving stage.
4.1 This specification sets the maximum permissible cash-
1.2 For blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, this
mere coarse-hair content for cashmere in the form of roving,
specification is applicable only to the cashmere hair content of
yarn, or fabric.
such blends.
4.2 When agreed upon by parties in interest, this specifica-
NOTE 1—For the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content in
tion provides a basis for acceptance testing of roving, yarn, or
cashmere, refer to Test Method D 2816. For the identification of textile
fabric of cashmere, or blends of cashmere and other fibers in
fibers see Methods D 276. For the quantitative determination of the
such products.
composition of textile blends, see Test Methods D 629.
5. Specification for Cashmere
2. Referenced Documents
2 5.1 The cashmere coarse-hair content of cashmere in the
2.1 ASTM Standards:
form of roving, yarn, or fabric shall not exceed 0.7 % by
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
length.
D 276 Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
NOTE 2—Extensive interlaboratory tests have shown that when the
D 2816 Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in cashmere coarse-hair content exceeds 0.7 % by length, the corresponding
percentage by mass of cashmere coarse-hair in the product generally
Cashmere
exceeds 3.0 %. The data from these studies are filed with the secretary of
D 4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
Subcommittee D13.13, Committee D13 of ASTM.
3. Terminology
6. Test Method
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.13, Wool and Wool
6.1 Determine the coarse-hair content as directed in Test
Felt, refer to Terminology D 4845.
Method D 2816.
3.1.1 The following terms are
...
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2462 for testing for moisture in wool is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments since current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable.
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D2462 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative testing to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of the bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogenous as possible and that are from a lot of the type material in question. The test specimens should be assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-Test for unpaired data and an acceptance probability level chosen by the two parties before the test is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of the known bias.
5.2 This test method is the preferred method for all suitable samples of wool where it is important to obtain a result free from the possible biases, introduced by the conditions discussed in 5.3 and 5.4.
5.3 This test method is free from the interferences caused by different conditions of ambient atmosphere such as might affect the results of oven-drying. A slight amount of residual moisture may be retained in a specimen subjected to oven-drying because of the relative humidity of the ambient air; however, the amount of moisture retained may be estimated from published data.3
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of moisture present in grease wool, scoured wool, carded wool, garnetted wool, wool top and intermediate wool products, and rovings, by distillation with toluene.
1.2 Equations are given for calculating the amount of water present as moisture content (as-received basis) and moisture regain (dry fiber) basis. The term that corresponds to the basis used in the calculation and report must always be stated.
1.3 This test method is not applicable to material known to contain any steam-distillable, water-soluble matter. If it is suspected that such matter is present, the method should be used with caution.
1.4 Xylene or other solvents should not be substituted for toluene as no other solvents have been evaluated for use in this standard.
Note 1: The determination of moisture in wool by oven-drying is covered in Test Method D1576 and for textile materials in general in Test Methods D2654. A method for sampling wool for the determination of moisture in wool is covered in Practice D2525.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.For specific safety hazard statements, see Section 8.
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This recommended practice furnishes directions for the sampling of wool of the various forms indicated in Section 1, in order that correct probability statements may be made about the relationship between the sample mean and the population mean. If these statements are to be correct, certain conditions, which are stated, must hold.
5.2 This recommended practice requires that a deliberate act of randomization be performed so that all potential sampling units have approximately the same chance of being taken and no sampling unit is deprived of its chance of being taken.
5.3 In any case where insufficient information about the variability of the sampling units within the lot is available, directions are given for calculating confidence limits for the sample mean so that a correct probability statement can still be made.
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1.1 This practice covers the design of a sampling plan to be used to obtain samples for the determination of the moisture content of grease wool, scoured wool, carded wool, garnetted wool, wool top and intermediate products, and rovings.
1.2 Directions are given for the designation of sampling units, calculation of the number of sampling units required to achieve a preselected precision and confidence level or, alternatively, for calculating the confidence limits for the mean based on the variability of the sample tested.
Note 1: This practice for devising a sampling plan is intended for use in connection with Test Method D1576 or Test Method D2462. The sampling of raw wool for the determination of clean wool fiber present is covered in Practice D1060.
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5.1 This test method specifies a sampling and testing procedure for the measurement of average fiber diameter and variation in diameter of animal fibers as required in Test Method D2968.
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1.1 This test method covers a procedure, using the microprojector, for the determination of the average fiber diameter and the fiber diameter variation on wool and other animal fibers, such as mohair, cashmere, alpaca, camel's hair, etc. (Note 1) in their various forms.
1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
Note 1: This test method may also be applied to any fibers having a round cross section and accordingly may be used many times for melt-spun man-made fibers such as polyamides, polyesters, and glass; also it may be applied to a limited number of polyacrylics and regenerated cellulose type fibers. The values given in Appendix X1 for density and correction factors, however, apply only to wool and should not be used for other fibers. For suitable values for the density of other fibers, see Table 5 in Test Methods D629, Quantitative Analysis of Textiles.
Note 2: In subsequent sections of this test method, the term “wool” also signifies mohair or other fibers if the circumstances are applicable.
Note 3: For fineness specifications for wool, wool top, mohair, mohair top, alpaca, and cashmere, refer to Specifications D3991 and D3992, Specification D2252, Test Method D2816.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2968 for the determination of med and kemp fibers by microprojection may be used for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments of wool and other animal fibers, but caution is advised since only a few types of animal fibers have been subjected to interlaboratory tests to ascertain the precision of tests for med and kemp fibers by this test method. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1 may be advisable.
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the breaking tenacity of wool fibers as a flat bundle with a 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) clamp separation.
1.2 This test method is especially adapted to the fiber bundle clamps and strength testing instruments specified, but may be used on other tensile testing machines when equipped with appropriate adapters to accommodate the prescribed clamps.
1.3 This test method is applicable to wool in any form which can be hand-combed into small bundles of parallelized fibers.
Note 1: Other test methods for measuring breaking tenacity of fiber bundles include Test Methods D1294, D1445, and D540.
1.4 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2462 for the determination of the moisture in wool by distillation with toluene is the preferred method for testing wool for moisture for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments. If, however, the purchaser and the supplier agree, Test Method D1576 for the determination of the moisture in wool by oven drying may be used instead. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1, may be advisable.
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D1576 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens which are as homogeneous as possible and which are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.
5.2 This test method is a simple and convenient method for routine process control, in-plant evaluation, estimation of moisture content of a lot of wool, or any other purpose for which a high degree of reproducibility is not necessary (see Section 13).
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of moisture present in ordinary commercial and industrial samples of wool in all forms except grease wool, using the oven-drying technique.
1.2 Formulas for calculating the moisture content (as-received basis) and moisture regain (oven-dried basis) are given. It is always important to use the correct term which corresponds to the basis used in the calculation (see 12.2.1).
Note 1: The determination of moisture content for textile materials in general is covered in Test Methods D2654, and an optimal method for determining the moisture in wool by distillation with toluene is covered in Test Method D2462. A method for sampling wool for the determination of moisture in wool is covered in Practice D2525. The oven-drying method has been adapted for cotton in Test Method D2495.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D1574 is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing since the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D1574 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.
5.2 This test method may be used to estimate the quantity of oil, grease, and waxy materials remaining on or in wool fibers after scouring, or the quantity of lubricant added before carding or remaining after carding, or the quantity of such materials added or removed in subsequent processing operations.
5.3 The residues obtained in this test may be subjected to chemical analysis for identification and assay of the component materials, if desired.
5.4 The specified solvent in this test method does not remove some materials, such as soaps, that may be present in wool and hence in some cases may reflect more closely the added content of some extractables in wool such as oils. When such materials are present and an estimate of their quantity is desired, some other solvent or combination of solvents should be used as spec...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of extractable matter in samples of all forms of wool, except grease wool, that is extractable with a non-flammable vapor degreasing and cleaning solvent.
1.2 This test method does not cover the determination of the amounts of different components in the extracted matter nor their identification.
1.3 This test method is suitable for use with other animal fibers.
Note 1: The determination of extractable matter in yarns and in felts is covered in Test Methods D2257 and D461. For the determination of alcohol-extractable matter in oven-dry scoured wool, refer to Test Methods D584 and D1334.
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. See 5.4 and Note 3.
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D1294 for the determination of tensile strength may be used for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments of wool, but caution is advised since technicians may fail to get good agreement between results. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1 may be advisable.
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogenous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
5.2 This test method is useful in studying the relationship between fiber strength and product quality; results should be considered comparative rather than fundamental since the strength found will be lower than the sum of the strengths of the individual fibers present due to slight differences in tensioning.
5.3 Elongation may be obtained also but the accuracy of elongation measurements is limited and their determination is, therefore, not included as a formal part of this test method.
5.4 The basic differences between the procedures employed in this test method and those of Test Method D2524 are in the gage lengths employed and the methods of clamping. In Test Method D2524, specific clamps are required whereas in Test Method D1294, any conventional clamps may be used. Results for breaking load determined by Test Method D2524 average 30 % higher than ...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the breaking force (or load) and estimation of the tensile strength and tenacity of wool fiber bundles with a 1-in. (25.4 mm) gage length. A procedure for preparation of the fiber bundle is included.
1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard. Because the instrument is calibrated in inch-pound units, inch-pound units are shown first, contrary to Committee D13 policy.
Note 1: For other methods of measuring breaking tenacity of fiber bundles, refer to Test Methods D1445 and D2524.
Note 2: This test method can be used for other fibers that lend themselves to the same kind of preparation but the difference in density must be taken into account when calculating the tensile strength. It is not necessary to know or correct for the density of a fiber when calculating breaking tenacity.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Cotton fiber that is on average finer and more mature is more desirable than coarse or immature fiber, although distinction between these qualities cannot be made quickly and accurately using current test methods. Immature fibers break more easily during processing and have a tendency to form into neps (small entanglements) during processing in the spinning mill. These consequences adversely affect yarn and fabric quality and appearance. Yarn and fabric produced from immature fiber is typically also less lustrous and does not take up dye consistently so yarn and fabric appearance may be different after dyeing.
5.2 Maturity has a high positive correlation with fiber length and strength but genetic differences and differences in fiber wall thickness caused by plant diseases, soil, and water conditions during the growing season interfere with this relationship.
5.2.1 Fine fibers are required for fine count yarn manufacture and fiber fineness affects yarn count, evenness and strength. Both fineness and ribbon width are strong genetic traits evident between species and affected by growing conditions within species.
5.2.2 Micronaire has traditionally been used as a measure of fiber fineness although the value actually measures fiber specific surface area or surface area per unit weight. As a result, micronaire varies concomitantly with both maturity and fineness (see Fig. 2). Maturity and fineness are related to micronaire via Lord’s equation.4
FIG. 2 Relationship Between Micronaire (X), Fineness (H), and Maturity (M)
5.3 Cottonscope values have been judged against fineness, maturity and ribbon width values produced by examination of thousands of individual, magnified fiber cross-sections. Relationships with equivalent values by these and other older test methods are highly significant5,6 particularly if the number of cross-sections analyzed is high (>3000) and the cross-sections are carefully prepared and measured. Cottonscope measures approximately 20,...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of linear density (gravimetric fineness hereafter stated as fineness), maturity, micronaire, and ribbon width of cotton fibers from a loose, chemically untreated sample taken before harvest, during ginning, during mill processing or unraveled from raw (undyed) yarn or fabric.
1.2 This test method requires the use of an integrated instrument, for example, the Cottonscope (see Fig. 1), that measures the maturity, fineness, ribbon width, and micronaire of cotton fiber.2
FIG. 1 Cottonscope Instrument
Note 1: For another test method to determine the maturity of cotton fibers, refer to Test Method D1442.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. No other units of measurement are included in this standard.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Few standards exist to objectively judge flax quality. Color is an important factor in the quality of flax fiber. Natural variations in raw flax fiber, various processing steps, fiber blending, and a wide range of end uses contribute to the need for a standard method of objectively measuring the color of flax fiber. Spectrophotometic data provide an accurate, precise determination of the color of flax fiber. Colorimetric data are obtained through specimen measurement by combining specimen spectral data with data representing a CIE standard observer and a CIE standard illuminant, as described in Practice E308.
5.2 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two (or more) laboratories, comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that fiber sample type must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the instrumental color measurement of flax fiber.
1.2 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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