ASTM D2817-91(2001)
(Specification)Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
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1.1 This specification covers the allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere which has been processed at least to the roving stage.
1.2 For blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, this specification is applicable only to the cashmere hair content of such blends.
Note 1--For the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere, refer to Test Method D2816. For the identification of textile fibers see Methods D276. For the quantitative determination of the composition of textile blends, see Test Methods D629.
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Designation: D 2817 – 91 (Reapproved 2001)
Standard Specification for
Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2817; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.1.3 cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of
the cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a
1.1 This specification covers the allowable cashmere
percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;
coarse-hair content in cashmere which has been processed at
that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in
least to the roving stage.
cashmere hair.
1.2 For blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, this
3.1.4 cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair
specification is applicable only to the cashmere hair content of
having widths of 30 µm or less.
such blends.
3.1.5 cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of
NOTE 1—For the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content in
goat (Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the
cashmere, refer to Test Method D 2816. For the identification of textile
cashmere goat.
fibers see Methods D 276. For the quantitative determination of the
3.1.5.1 Discussion—Characteristically, cashmere hair con-
composition of textile blends, see Test Methods D 629.
sists of fine down (undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat)
2. Referenced Documents
fibers.
3.1.6 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
2.1 ASTM Standards:
specification, refer to Terminology D 123.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D 276 Test Methods for Identification of Fibers in Textiles
4. Significance and Use
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
4.1 This specification sets the maximum permissible cash-
D 2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other
mere coarse-hair content for cashmere in the form of roving,
Animal Fibers by Microprojection
yarn, or fabric.
D 2816 Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in
4.2 When agreed upon by parties in interest, this specifica-
Cashmere
tion provides a basis for acceptance testing of roving, yarn, or
3. Terminology
fabric of cashmere, or blends of cashmere and other fibers in
such products.
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere
5. Specification for Cashmere
hair or products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair
5.1 The cashmere coarse-hair content of cashmere in the
content not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by
form of roving, yarn, or fabric shall not exceed 0.7
...
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1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
Note 1: This test method may also be applied to any fibers having a round cross section and accordingly may be used many times for melt-spun man-made fibers such as polyamides, polyesters, and glass; also it may be applied to a limited number of polyacrylics and regenerated cellulose type fibers. The values given in Appendix X1 for density and correction factors, however, apply only to wool and should not be used for other fibers. For suitable values for the density of other fibers, see Table 5 in Test Methods D629, Quantitative Analysis of Textiles.
Note 2: In subsequent sections of this test method, the term “wool” also signifies mohair or other fibers if the circumstances are applicable.
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1.2 This test method does not cover the determination of the amounts of different components in the extracted matter nor their identification.
1.3 This test method is suitable for use with other animal fibers.
Note 1: The determination of extractable matter in yarns and in felts is covered in Test Methods D2257 and D461. For the determination of alcohol-extractable matter in oven-dry scoured wool, refer to Test Methods D584 and D1334.
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. See 5.4 and Note 3.
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5.1 Test Method D1294 for the determination of tensile strength may be used for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments of wool, but caution is advised since technicians may fail to get good agreement between results. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1 may be advisable.
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogenous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
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1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard. Because the instrument is calibrated in inch-pound units, inch-pound units are shown first, contrary to Committee D13 policy.
Note 1: For other methods of measuring breaking tenacity of fiber bundles, refer to Test Methods D1445 and D2524.
Note 2: This test method can be used for other fibers that lend themselves to the same kind of preparation but the difference in density must be taken into account when calculating the tensile strength. It is not necessary to know or correct for the density of a fiber when calculating breaking tenacity.
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1.2 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.
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FIG. 2 Relationship Between Micronaire (X), Fineness (H), and Maturity (M)
5.3 Cottonscope values have been judged against fineness, maturity and ribbon width values produced by examination of thousands of individual, magnified fiber cross-sections. Relationships with equivalent values by these and other older test methods are highly significant5,6 particularly if the number of cross-sections analyzed is high (>3000) and the cross-sections are carefully prepared and measured. Cottonscope measures approximately 20,...
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1.2 This test method requires the use of an integrated instrument, for example, the Cottonscope (see Fig. 1), that measures the maturity, fineness, ribbon width, and micronaire of cotton fiber.2
FIG. 1 Cottonscope Instrument
Note 1: For another test method to determine the maturity of cotton fibers, refer to Test Method D1442.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. No other units of measurement are included in this standard.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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