SIST EN 13089:2011
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Eisgeräte fest, die beim Bergsteigen, einschließlich Klettern, verwendet werden und als vergrabener Ankerpunkt zum Schutz gegen Absturz dienen.
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils a glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente norme prescrit des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d’essai relatives aux outils a glace utilisés dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade.
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za orodje za led, ki se uporablja pri gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem, kot zakopano sidro za varovanje pred padci.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils a glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 13089:2011SIST EN 13089:2011en01-julij-2011SIST EN 13089:2011SLOVENSKI
STANDARDSIST EN 13089:20001DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 13089:2011
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 13089
March 2011 ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:1999English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools -Safety requirements and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 5 February 2011.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels © 2011 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 13089:2011: ESIST EN 13089:2011
EN 13089:2011 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword .3Introduction .41Scope .52Normative references .53Terms and definitions .54Safety requirements .64.1Edges .64.2Shaft strength .64.3Strength in the load direction YY .64.4Strength in the load direction XX .64.5Pick strength .75Test methods .75.1Preparation of test samples .75.2Apparatus .75.3Procedure .75.3.1Test sample .75.3.2Edges .75.3.3Shaft strength .85.3.4Strength in the load direction YY .95.3.5Strength in the load direction XX .95.3.6Pick strength . 106Marking . 117Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12Annex A (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 15 SIST EN 13089:2011
EN 13089:2011 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 13089:2011) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2011, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 2011. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 13089:1999. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been made: a) an editorial revision has been carried on; b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls; c) there is a new classification of ice-tools; d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted; e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised; f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted; g) there is an additional marking. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom.
SIST EN 13089:2011
EN 13089:2011 (E) 4 Introduction This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des Accociations d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. SIST EN 13089:2011
EN 13089:2011 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 ice-tool hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick NOTE See Figure 1. 3.2 type 1 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.3 type 2 ice-tool ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice 3.4 type 1 pick pick intended for use in snow and/or ice 3.5 type 2 pick pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
SIST EN 13089:2011
EN 13089:2011 (E) 6
Key 1 Shaft of the ice-tool 2 Pick of the ice-tool Figure 1 — Main parts of an ice-tool 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Edges All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges. 4.2 Shaft strength When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated fK value. 4.3 Strength in the load direction YY When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4, a) the test sample shall not break; b) no component
...
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN 13089:2007
01-januar-2007
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils a glace - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 13089
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
oSIST prEN 13089:2007 en
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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oSIST prEN 13089:2007
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oSIST prEN 13089:2007
EUROPEAN STANDARD
DRAFT
prEN 13089
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
September 2006
ICS Will supersede EN 13089:1999
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and
test methods
Equipements d'alpinisme et d'ecsalade - Outils à glace - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische
Exigences de sécurite et méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136.
If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which
stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.
This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language
made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Management Centre has the same
status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France,
Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania,
Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are aware and to
provide supporting documentation.
Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without notice and
shall not be referred to as a European Standard.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels
© 2006 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 13089:2006: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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oSIST prEN 13089:2007
prEN 13089:2006 (E)
Contents Page
Foreword.3
Introduction .4
1 Scope .5
2 Normative references .5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements .6
5 Test methods.7
6 Marking .13
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer.13
Annex A (informative) Bibliography .14
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.15
2
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oSIST prEN 13089:2007
prEN 13089:2006 (E)
Foreword
This document (prEN 13089:2006) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, play-
ground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
This document will supersede EN 13089:1999.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this standard.
3
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oSIST prEN 13089:2007
prEN 13089:2006 (E)
Introduction
The text is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des Accociations d'Alpinisme), which
has been prepared with international participation.
This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4
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oSIST prEN 13089:2007
prEN 13089:2006 (E)
1 Scope
This standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including
climbing.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated refer-
ences, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document
(including any amendments) applies.
EN 565, Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
ice-tool
hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice which can be used as an anchor point. It comprises
at least a shaft and a pick (see Figure 1)
3.2
technical ice-tool (type T)
ice-tool intended for use when climbing steep ice
3.3
basic ice-tool (type B)
ice-tools other than technical ice-tools
Key
1 Shaft of the ice-tool
2 Pick of the ice-tool
Figure 1 — Main parts of an ice-tool
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prEN 13089:2006 (E)
4 Safety requirements
4.1 General
Unless otherwise stated, the following requirements apply to both types of ice-tools.
4.2 Edges
All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs.
4.3 Shaft strength
When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation at the
point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated f value.
K
4.4 Strength in the load direction YY
When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4,
a) the test sample shall not break;
b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose.
4.5 Strength in the load direction XX
When tested in the load direction XX (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.5,
a) the shaft shall not break;
b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose;
c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 10 mm after removal of
the load.
Key
1 Pick
2 Shaft
XX/YY Load directions
Figure 2 — Load directions XX and YY
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prEN 13089:2006 (E)
4.6 Flat pick strength
When tested in accordance with 5.3.6,
a) the test sample shall not break;
b) no component part of the test sample shall work loose;
c) the permanent deformation at the point of application of the force shall not exceed 70 mm or the calcu-
lated f value after removal of the force.
K
4.7 Fatique performance of type T ice-tool picks
4.7.1 Flat picks
When tested in accordance with 5.3.7.1,
a) the test sample shall not break;
b) no component part of the pick shall work loose.
4.7.2 Circular and semicircular picks
When tested in accordance with 5.3.7.2,
a) the test sample shall not break;
b) no component part of the pick shall work loose.
5 Test methods
5.1 Preparation of test samples
For the strength tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 the test samples shall be conditioned for at least 1 h at (– 30 ± 5) °C. The
tests shall be carried out at (23 ± 5) °C. Each test shall begin within 3 min from removal from conditioning.
5.2 Apparatus
For the tests 5.3.3 to 5.3.6 use a tape in accordance with EN 565 with a width of (15 ± 2) mm.
5.3 Procedure
5.3.1 Test sample
Carry out each test on a test sample not previously subjected to any load.
5.3.2 Edges
Check by visual and tactile examination that the requirements of 4.2 are met.
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5.3.3 Shaft strength
Support the shaft horizontally and load it in the direction XX as shown in Figure 3.
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
1 Tape
Figure 3 — Testing of shaft strength
If the ice-tool is long enough, arrange the tapes as shown in Figure 3 with the load applied at the mid length of
the ice-tool.
Apply a force of
F = (2 500 + 125/–
...
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