ASTM D3938-96

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Designation: D 3938 – 96
Standard Guide for
Determining or Confirming Care Instructions for Apparel
and Other Textile Consumer Products
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3938; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 2.3 AATCC Methods:
Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile
1.1 This guide may be used to determine and confirm the
Chemists and Colorists
appropriate care label instructions for apparel, piece goods, and
other consumer textile products excluding textile floor cover-
3. Terminology
ings and upholstered fabrics.
3.1 Definitions:
1.2 This guide encompasses the following care procedures:
3.1.1 care instructions, n—in textiles, a series of directions
home laundering, commercial laundering, professional dry-
describing which care practices should refurbish a product
cleaning, and coin-operated drycleaning.
without adverse effects and warnings for those care practices
1.3 This guide includes provision for evaluating the com-
expected to have a harmful effect.
plete consumer textile product and the product components.
3.1.2 care label, n—a label that gives directions for refur-
1.4 This guide covers the performance characteristics as a
bishing a product.
result of refurbishing that are important in determining the
3.1.3 care procedure, n—for consumer textile products,a
acceptability of a textile product to the consumer.
process by which products or specimens may be treated for soil
1.5 This guide is appropriate for the evaluation of all
removal and aesthetic improvement.
garments and household textiles that are sold with permanently
3.1.3.1 Discussion—The process employs appropriate
attached care labels.
equipment, materials and processes, and may include but need
1.5.1 This guide may also be used in connection with the
not be limited to the following: water or drycleaning solvent,
evaluation of similar materials that do not have a care label.
detergent or soap, foam, absorption (powder) type compounds,
1.6 This standard does not purport to address all of the
bleach, agitation, drying, pressing or ironing.
safety problems, if any, associated with its use. It is the
3.1.4 commercial laundering, n—a process by which textile
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
products or specimens may be washed, bleached, dried, and
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
pressed by non-home type equipment, typically at higher
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
temperatures, higher pH, and longer times than used for home
2. Referenced Documents laundering.
3.1.5 consumer care, n—of consumer textile products,
2.1 ASTM Standards:
cleaning and maintenance procedures as customarily under-
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
taken by the ultimate consumer.
D 3136 Terminology for Consumer Textile and Leather
3.1.6 consumer textile product, n—a textile product in-
Products Other Than Carpets and Upholstery
tended to satisfy human wants and needs.
2.2 Other Standards:
3.1.6.1 Discussion—Textile consumer products include
Federal Trade Commission Trade Regulation Rule. Care
such products as yarns, piece goods, clothing, zippers and trim,
Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece
table linens, draperies, curtains, towels, bedsheets, and slipcov-
Goods. Effective July 3, 1972, As Amended January 2,
3 ers. The component parts of consumer textile products may
include such other materials as suede, leather and fur.
The National Standard of Canada—Care Labelling of Tex-
4 3.1.7 drycleaning, n—a commercial process by which soil
tiles (CAN/CSGB-86.1-M87)
may be removed from textile products or parts thereof in a
machine which uses petroleum, perchloroethylene, or fluoro-
This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on Textiles and
carbon solvents.
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.62 on Textile Care Labeling.
Current edition approved Jan. 10, 1996. Published August 1996. Originally 3.1.7.1 Discussion—The process may include moisture ad-
published as D 3938 – 93. Last previous edition D 3938 – 93.
dition to solvent up to 75 % relative humidity, hot tumble
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
Available from Federal Trade Commission, 6th Street and Pennsylvania
Avenue, NW, Washington, DC 20580.
4 5
Available from Canadian Government Publishing Centre, Supply and Services Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
Canada, Publication Section, Hull (Quebec) K1A OS9. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 3938
drying up to 71°C (160°F), and restoration by steam or steam and confirming instructions on a care label for a consumer
air finishing. textile product.
5.2 General procedures include setting minimum or maxi-
3.1.8 home laundering, n—a process by which textile prod-
ucts or parts thereof may be washed, bleached, dried, and mum performance specifications for the product, selecting
appropriate standards and test methods to match the care label
pressed by any customary method designed for use in a
residence, or non-professional use. (See also professional instructions, conducting the testing and evaluation process, and
writing the report.
care.)
3.1.9 laundering, n—a process used to refurbish a textile 5.3 The products are evaluated for change in dimension,
hand, appearance, or other performance characteristics as a
product or parts thereof by (1) cleaning it in water containing
a cleaning agent, and possibly bleach, (2) drying it, and (3) result of refurbishing.
usually ironing or pressing it.
6. General Considerations
3.1.10 main components, n—in textiles, those sections of a
6.1 Care instructions can be determined by testing the
consumer product which constitute the largest continuous
component parts or by testing the completed consumer textile
homogeneous areas of the product that are typical of the
product or both if necessary.
product.
6.1.1 When confirming the care label the testing shall be
3.1.11 permanent care label, n—as applied to textile prod-
done on the completed consumer textile product.
ucts, a care label that remains legible and attached to a textile
6.2 The test methods and evaluation processes selected to
product throughout its useful life.
represent the washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, and dry-
3.1.12 professional care, n—for consumer textile products,
cleaning care label instructions shall simulate at least 3
overall cleaning and maintenance procedures requiring the
complete refurbishing cycles.
services of a person specially trained or skilled in their use and
6.2.1 The actual number of complete refurbishing cycles
usually earning a livelihood by their cleaning.
shall be agreed upon by the purchaser and the seller.
3.1.13 refurbish, n—as applied to textile products,to
6.2.2 One complete refurbishing cycle includes either (1)
brighten or freshen up and restore to wearability or use by
laundering including washing and drying, and, if appropriate,
cleaning such as drycleaning, laundering, or steam cleaning.
bleaching and/or ironing; or, (2) drycleaning and pressing.
3.1.14 specification, n—a precise statement of a set of
6.3 Test results that meet or exceed the preset specifications
requirements to be satisfied by a material, product, system, or
for performance characteristic confirm the selection of the
service that indicates the procedures for determining whether
suitable care label instructions.
each of the requirements is satisfied.
3.1.14.1 Discussion—It is desirable to express the require-
7. Product Characteristics for Evaluation as a Result of
ments numerically in terms of appropriate units together with
Refurbishing
their limits.
7.1 Change in Dimensions:
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
7.1.1 Shrinkage.
practice, refer to Terminology D 123. For definitions of terms
7.1.2 Growth.
related to permanent care labeling refer to Terminology
7.1.3 Distortion caused by uneven growth or shrinkage.
D 3136.
7.1.4 Distortion caused by incompatible shrinkage of com-
ponents including basic fabrics and items such as zippers,
4. Significance and Use
linings, interfacings, interlinings, sewing thread, waist bands,
4.1 This is a guide to help a manufacturer distributor, or
pockets, seam bindings or tape, textile trim, nontextile trim,
importer establish a reasonable basis for care information.
and labels.
4.2 The manufacturer distributor, or importer should pos-
7.2 Change in Hand:
sess, prior to sale, reliable evidence that the product was not
7.2.1 Changes in the physical properties related to the hand
harmed when refurbished reasonably often according to the
of fabrics listed in Annex A3 of Terminology D 123.
instructions. Additionally they should possess reliable evidence
7.3 Change in Appearance:
that the product or a fair sample of the product would be
7.3.1 Loss or change of color.
harmed when refurbished by methods warned against on the
7.3.2 Staining or self-staining, that is transference, or run-
label.
ning of original color from one product to another or from one
4.3 This guide is intended for general use by those who wish
area to another area on the same product.
to determine whether apparel or other consumer textile prod-
7.3.3 Distortion and loss or change in surface appearance or
ucts will perform in an acceptable manner when the care
structure (such as, pilling, fuzzing, snagging, or matting; or
instructions on the label are followed.
loss of nap, flocking, embossing, or fabric smoothness; or other
4.4 Refurbished products are evaluated against previously
effects).
selected product performance specifications to determine
7.3.4 Change in appearance caused by incompatibility of
whether the products can be refurbished successfully by
components resulting in defects such as puckering of seams.
following the instructions on the care label.
7.3.5 Change in appearance caused by ineffectiveness of
recommended cleaning procedure, such that the textile product
5. Summary of Guide
is no longer wearable or acceptable. Stain removal is not to be
5.1 This guide describes general procedures for determining considered in this context.
D 3938
7.4 Change in Performance: 9.3 Performance standards should be agreed upon by the
7.4.1 Loss of claimed functional properties (stated or im- purchaser and seller or the end-use standards of ASTM
plied) such as durable press, water repellency, anti-static, Committee D-13 shall be used.
flame-resistant, or soil release. 9.4 The levels of performance under the applicable care
7.4.2 Loss of performance of construction or design caused label instructions shall meet or exceed those stated in the
by sewing (such as, needle cutting, feed-dog abrasion, ravel- appropriate ASTM performance specifications or industry
ling of seams, removal of appliques and trim, and malfunction standards.
of closures or other hardware). 9.4.1 These standards shall be determined by the purchaser
7.4.3 Failure of textile structure resulting from laundering and seller. It is the responsibility of the manufacturer to meet
or dry cleaning (for example, delamination). these standards.
9.5 The test results shall be compared with the appropriate
8. Selection of Performance Specifications and Test
performance specifications.
Methods
10. Evaluation Form
8.1 If the textile product to be evaluated has no care label,
determine a set of care instructions suitable for the item.
10.1 The worksheet for recording the evaluation of the
8.1.1 On making the final determination consider factors product must be simple enough for a technician to use with
such as fiber content, fabric construction, item construction,
ease and with full understanding.
findings, color and finish applications, and end use. 10.2 The worksheet shall make provision for inclusion of all
8.2 If the consumer textile product to be evaluated has an
characteristics of the product that are important to the con-
attached care label, then confirm the care by using the sumer, purchaser, or seller; including but not limited to those
designated instructions on the label. listed in Section 7 of this guide.
8.3 Select from the product characteristics listed in Section 10.3 The form shall show the performance requirements for
7 those specific properties that are to be evaluated for the the predetermined properties decided upon by those using this
samples to be tested. guide.
8.3.1 The specific properties are not limited to those ex- 10.4 When completed, the form shall show the evaluation
amples listed, but may include all items which are agreed upon assigned to each performance characteristic for each sample.
between the purchaser and supplier.
11. Conformance
8.3.2 Select the performance specification level for each
product characteristic to be evaluated. 11.1 If any sample fails to show an acceptable performance
8.4 Select test methods that are comparable with the care with respect to any of the previously designated characteristics,
instructions to serve as the basis for evaluation of acceptable it shall be deemed unsatisfactory.
performance for the care label. 11.2 The overall appearance of the sample should be con-
8.4.1 The test procedures must be at least as severe as the sidered as well as the individual characteristics.
conditions specified in the care label instruction. 11.3 If the item fails to meet specified levels of perfor-
8.5 Tables 1 and 2 list some of the common performance mance, the care label instructions or the merchandise shall be
specifications and test methods. changed to meet the specified level of performance and the care
label instructions reconfirmed.
8.5.1 Performance specifications and some test methods are
found in the current editions of the Annual Book of ASTM 11.3.1 When the purchaser and supplier have agreed upon
specific requirements for the characteristics that are to be
Standards, Vols 07.01 and 07.02.
8.5.2 Some test methods are found in the current edition of considered, apparel and other consumer textile products that
fail to meet these requirements may be rejected. Rejection
the Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorists. should be reported to the supplier in writing. In case of
disagreement with results of the test, the seller may request for
8.6 Subject the product to a minimum of 3 refurbishing
cycles. a retest.
8.6.1 The actual number of complete refurbishing cycles
12. Report
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