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ASTM D1683-90a

(Test Method)

Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics (Withdrawn 1999)

Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics (Withdrawn 1999)

SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of the maximum sewn seam strength which can be achieved in woven fabrics when a force is applied perpendicular to the seam. The grab test procedure in Test Methods D1682, which are used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics, will be used in conjunction with this test method for measuring sewn seam strength.
1.2 This test method is restricted to sewn seams which may either be obtained from a previously sewn article or prepared from fabric samples.
1.3 This test method is used when a breaking force to rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
1.4 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam since wear life is dependent upon other factors in addition to seam stressing.
1.5 The grab test procedures in Test Methods D1682 shall be used to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of sewn seam strength.
1.6 The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI) or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The values expressed in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore each system must be used independently of the other, without combining values in any way.
1.7 This standard does not purport to address the safety problems associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.>

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Publication Date
31-Dec-1989
Withdrawal Date
31-Jan-1999
ICS
59.080.30 - Textile fabrics
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.54 - Subassemblies
Current Stage
Ref Project

Relations

Replaced By
ASTM D1683-04 - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004

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ASTM D1683-90a - Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics (Withdrawn 1999)ASTM D1683-90a - Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics (Withdrawn 1999)
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ASTM D1683-90a - Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics (Withdrawn 1999)
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Standards Content (Sample)

ASTM DLb83 REVSA 90 I 0759.530 0083396 5 I i
Designation: D 1683 - 90a
rlSTb
Standard Test Method for
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics’
This standard is issued under the ftxed designation D 1683: the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (6) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope Fed, Std. No, 751a Stitches, Seams and Stitching3
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of the
maximum sewn seam strength which can be achieved in
3. Terminology
woven fabrics when a force is applied perpendicular to the
3.1 DeJinitions:
seam. The grab test procedure in Test Methods D 1682,
3.1.1 needle damage, n-in sewn fabrics, the partial or
which are used to measure breaking force and elongation of
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
textile fabrics, will be used in conjunction with this test
passing through a fabric during sewing.
method for measuring sewn seam strength.
3.1.2 seam allowance, n-in sewn fabrics, the distance
1.2 This test method is restricted to sewn seams which
from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest
may either be obtained from a previously sewn article or from the edge.
prepared from fabric samples. 3.1.3 seam assembly, n-the composite structure ob-
tained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
1.3 This test method is used when a breaking force to
3.1.3.1 Discussion-A seam assembly may be described
rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to
in terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type,
determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam
stitch type, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and
integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
type(s), stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.
1.4 This test method does not predict actual wear per-
3.1.4 seam damage, n-in sewn fabrics, a reduction in
formance of a seam since wear life is dependent upon other
seam efficiency caused by a change in the physical condition
factors in addition to seam stressing.
of one or more of the components in a seam.
1,5 The grab test procedures in Test Methods D 1682
3.1.5 seam eficiency, n-in sewn fabrics, the ratio, ex-
shall be used to determine any characteristic in fabric that
pressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to
can affect the measurement of sewn seam strength.
rupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.
1.6 The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI)
3.1.6 seam engineering, n-in sewn fabrics, the proce-
or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard, The
dures used to select a specific combination of sewing thread,
values expressed in each system may not be exact equiva-
stitch type, seam type, and stitch density to achieve the
lents; therefore each system must be used independently of-
maximum sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.
the other, without combining values in any way.
3.1.7 seam failure, n-in sewn fabrics, that point at which
1.7 This standard does not purport to address the safety
an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures
problems associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the
the fabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to the
user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and
stitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptable
health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory conditions.
limitations prior to use. 3.1.7.1 Discussion-Despite the lack of rupture, excessive
yarn slippage will significantly reduce seam efficiency, thus
creating seam failure.
2. Referenced Documeks
3.1.8 seam interaction, n-in sewn fabrics, the net effect
of the relationship between the combination of fabric, seam
2.1 ASTM Standards:
type, stitch type, and stitch density on seam efficiency.
D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for
3.1.9 seam slippage, n-in sewn fabrics, the partial or
Textiles*
complete loss of seam integrity manifested by yam slippage
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles*
parallel to, or adjacent to, the stitch line. (Syn. yarn slippage,
D 1682 Test Methods for Breaking Load and Elongation
-in sewn fabrics.)
of Textile Fabrics*
3.1.10 seam type, n-in sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric
D 1776 Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing* .
designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric
2.2 Federal Standard:
positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric
seam. (See Federal Standard 75 la.)
- 3.1.10.1 Discussion-The first two letters of the designa-
t This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
tion show seam type; the third and subsequent letters specify
Textiles and is the direct
...

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1.1 This test method covers the measurement of end (warp) and pick (filling) count and is applicable to all types of woven fabrics.  
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the propensity of a fabric to form pills and other related surface changes on textiles using the random tumble pilling tester. The procedure is generally applicable to all types of woven and knitted apparel fabrics.  
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 The measurement of the resistance to abrasion of textile and other materials is very complex. The resistance to abrasion is affected by many factors, such as the inherent mechanical properties of the fibers; the dimensions of the fibers; the structure of the yarns; the construction of the fabrics; and the type, kind, and amount of finishing material added to the fibers, yarns, or fabric.  
5.2 The resistance to abrasion is also greatly affected by the conditions of the tests, such as the nature of abradant; variable action of the abradant over the area of specimen abraded, the tension of the specimen, the pressure between the specimen and abradant, and the dimensional changes in the specimen.  
5.3 Abrasion tests are all subject to variation due to changes in the abradant during specific tests. The abradant must accordingly be changed at frequent intervals or checked periodically against a standard. With disposable abradants, the abradant is used only once or changed after limited use. With permanent abradants that use hardened metal or equivalent surfaces, it is assumed that the abradant will not change appreciably in a specific series of tests, but obviously similar abradants used in different laboratories will not likely change at the same rate due to differences in usage. Permanent abradants may also change due to pick up of finishing or other material from test fabrics and must accordingly be cleaned at frequent intervals. The measurement of the relative amount of abrasion may also be affected by the method of evaluation and may be influenced by the judgment of the operator.  
5.4 The resistance of textile materials to abrasion as measured on a testing machine in the laboratory is generally only one of several factors contributing to wear performance or durability as experienced in the actual use of the material. While “abrasion resistance” (often stated in terms of the number of cycles on a specified machine, using a specified technique to produce a spe...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the abrasion resistance of woven textile fabrics using the oscillatory cylinder tester. This test method may not be usable for some fabric constructions.
Note 1: Other procedures for measuring the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics are given in: Guides D3884 and D4158, and Test Methods D3885, D3886, and AATCC 93.  
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
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5.2 The resistance to abrasion also is affected greatly by the conditions of the tests, such as the nature of abradant; variable action of the abradant over the area of specimen abraded, the tension on the specimen, the pressure between the specimen and abradant, and the dimensional changes in the specimen.  
5.3 Abrasion tests are all subject to variation due to changes in the abradant during specific tests. The abradant must be changed accordingly at freque...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics using the Martindale abrasion tester. The method is generally applicable to knit, woven, and nonwoven fabrics; however, material thickness may limit suitability for testing due to specimen holder capacity.  
1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
Note 1: For other current test methods of testing the abrasion resistance of textiles refer to Test Methods D3884, D3885, D3886, D4157, D4158, and AATCC TM93.  
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Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Martindale Tester

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Acceptance Testing—This method of testing fabrics resistance to pilling is not recommended for acceptance testing. If it is used for acceptance testing, it should be used with caution because interlaboratory data are not available. In some cases the purchaser or supplier may have to test a commercial shipment of one or more specific materials by the best available method even though the method has not been recommended for acceptance testing. Although this test method is not recommended for acceptance testing, it is useful because it is used widely outside the United States.  
5.2 If there is a disagreement arising from differences in values reported by the purchaser and the supplier when using this test method, the statistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and the laboratory of the supplier should be determined with comparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawn from one sample of material of the type being evaluated. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. A minimum of two parties should take a group of test specimens, which are as homogeneous as possible and which are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens then should be assigned randomly in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average test results from the two laboratories should be compared using an acceptable statistical protocol and probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is started. Appropriate statistical disciplines for comparing data must be used when the purchaser and supplier cannot agree. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future results with consideration for the known bias.  
5.3 The pilling of textile fabrics is a very complex property because it is affected by many factors that include type of fiber or blends, fiber dimensions, yarn and fabric construction, and fabric f...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics using the Martindale tester.
Note 1: For other methods, if testing the pilling resistance of textiles, refer to Test Methods D3511/D3511M, D3512/D3512M, and D3514.  
1.2 This test method is generally applicable to knit, woven, and nonwoven fabrics; however, material thickness may limit suitability for testing due to specimen holder capacity.  
1.3 The fabric may be laundered or dry cleaned before testing as agreed upon among interested parties.  
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

  • Standard
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  • Standard
    5 pages
    English language
    sale 15% off